Monday 22 July 2019

The best culinary thyme variety: Jekka's Thyme

I have a (possibly bad) habit of growing new and interesting vegetables. Some things grow exceptionally well for me, other things I can’t get them to crop at all. Sometimes they taste amazing and earn themselves a permanent place in my garden each year from them on, others aren’t all that great and I decide not to grow them again.

About a dozen years ago I grew yacon, I have kept dividing the same plant since then and have brought it with me as I moved house time and time again. I grew some skirret years ago and it has earned a permanent place in my yard, I can’t recommend this delicious and hardy vegetable highly enough.

Other things such as maca (Lepidium meyenii) I really enjoyed, but they never cropped all that well for me and couldn’t cope with the endless furnace like blasting dry heat when we lived in the Central West so I had to let them go, they may do well now I live in a cooler region again.

Some of the annual vegetables (or perennials that I grew like annuals) such as some fancy varieties of eggplant sounded great but really didn’t perform for me in my garden so have never been grown since.Others have been so great I grow them every single year.

A few years ago I tracked down a bunch of different varieties of edible thyme. I wrote a blog post comparing thyme varieties and showing pictures of their leaves near a ruler for scale. They have all grown well for me, and I am rather fond of most of them, but one variety of thyme in particular is far more vigorous and useful than any of the others.
Jekka's thyme forming a dense carpet
Jekka’s thyme was bred by a well-known herb breeder by the name of Jekka McVicar. I can understand why the breeder would want their name associated with such an outstanding variety. I believe Jekka's thyme won a bunch of awards at various horticultural shows, I would try to list them but really don’t think they mean a great deal. I have a feeling that winning these awards often has more to do with marketing than with the quality of a plant, I have bred some remarkable new vegetable varieties but wouldn’t know how to even enter these competitions.

Jekka's thyme smells and tastes strongly of thyme, which is the main reason I grow thyme. Plants produce comparatively large leaves (for thyme), and even without trimming they produce a lot of them. Most of the larger leaf varieties of thyme seem to struggle in the heat far more than the smaller leaf varieties. Jekkas thyme grows rather dense and casts a lot of shade on the soil, which appears to help it stand up to the heat surprisingly well for a larger leaf variety. Like most varieties of thyme they respond well to regular harvesting.
Jekka's thyme on the right (tabor thyme on the left)

One thing that surprised me was how fast and dense Jekkas thyme grows, they grow into a thick blanket of leaves and branches which cover the soil surface completely. As it is so thick, Jekkas thyme could probably be grown as a deep living mulch around taller plants or container grown fruit trees. I have a feeling that this would work well in pots long term.

Like most varieties of thyme they flower well, and the flowers are moderately attractive to honey bees and various native pollinators. The flowers look and smell like the flowers of most other varieties of edible thyme – dense clusters that are pink and tiny.
Jekka's Thyme Flowers

One thing I particularly like about this variety is how fast and how far Jekka's thyme spreads. They grow faster than any other variety I have grown, they are reasonably low growing, and any node that touches soil seems to set down roots quickly. The plant can be cut at this point and the new plantlet dug and moved, or it can be left where it is to keep expanding. Like most varieties of thyme they also grow easily from cuttings. Jekkas thyme seems to grow a lot faster than any other variety I have seen, I have one patch that has spread more than a meter and a half from the original plant in one single year!

Frosts down to about -10 do not appear to bother Jekka's thyme, it doesn’t really get colder than that here so I can’t comment about its survival in colder temperatures.

Jekka's thyme in the frost
People sometimes ask me about fertilisers and so forth. Honestly I can’t provide advice with that as I don’t use them. I fertilise when I prepare the garden bed by digging in homemade compost or manure from our animals. I water these plants over summer, and sometimes remove weeds, but that is all. I have never seen any pest or disease issues, I assume these issues can happen with Jekka's thyme but I haven’t encountered them yet.

In my opinion Jekka's thyme is a superior variety.  The only difficult part about growing Jekkas thyme is actually finding plants for sale.

Please don’t ever waste your money on seeds of Jekka’s thyme as they won’t grow like the parent. Most will be smaller and less vigorous, some may almost be as good as the parent. You are better off buying a plant as you will be sure of its quality.

I sell small bare rooted Jekka's thyme plants (or vigorously growing rooted cuttings depending on timing) and can post them to most of Australia. If you are interested they are listed on my for sale page along with other perennial vegetables, edible herbs, and heirloom vegetable seeds.

Thursday 18 July 2019

Tomato Breeding

One of my favourite tomatoes is Japanese Black Trifele (spelled a few different ways).  They taste amazing, they usually crop heavily for me, they taste great, they are reasonably quick to mature, and did I mention they taste great?  They are one of the varieties I grow every year.  I really like them, but find they they are a bit small for my liking.

I can't grow every tomato variety I have every year so I have a bit of a rotation to refresh my seeds.  Some varieties are very good, but not good enough to be grown every year.  Another great tomato variety I grow some years are a much larger fruited tomato, they taste great, they usually crop well, but the tomatoes are a bit too large for my liking so don't get grown every year.

  • Question: What would happen if you cross one of the best tasting tomatoes that is a touch too small (such as Japanese Black Trifele) with a great tasting tomato that is much larger? 
  • Answer: You get an amazing tasting tomato that is just the right size (as well as a whole heap of other tomatoes of different sizes, some taste better than others).

This new tomato has an interesting colour, this year it had regular leaf but it may or may not still have recessive potato leaf genes because I have been selecting taste/size of fruit and ignoring all other traits.  Unfortunately I didn't take a photo of it sliced, the colour inside was dark and amazing.  I hope when I have stabilized this variety it retains this rich colour.

This year was a dreadful year for tomatoes in my garden.  Many varieties did not crop at all, some only provided 1 or 2 tomatoes, some gave very small crops.

This new tomato was one of the first to ripen, being so early in the season I thought nothing of eating them as I figured that I would save seed later in the season.  Then the heat or something hit and I only saved seed from one or two fruit.  I wish I had more seeds, but I have what I have.  This isn't great, but it will have to do.

Great tasting tomato - top

Great tasting tomato - side

Great tasting tomato - bottom
Assuming all goes well, it will be a few years before this is a stable variety.  Stabilising a tomato variety usually takes 7 to 10 generations, sometimes more.

Stablising a variety can be done in a year or two if you play around with double haploids, but I don't think I will do that for this variety.  I plan to grow a few of them next year and continue to select the best ones.

My aim is to produce tomatoes that fruit like this one.  They are the right size, they look nice, they are soft, they smell nice, they crop well, and most importantly they are absolutely delicious.  Everything else, such as fruit colour, leaf shape etc, are not really important.

I sell seeds of a few heirloom tomatoes through my for sale page.  I likely won't offer seeds of this one for a long time as they are not even close to being stable.

Monday 1 July 2019

Wasabi herb

A few years ago I bought a small edible herb that was called "wasabi salad herb" (Diplotaxis erucoides). Apparently there are a few other herbs with the common name of “wasabi herb”, in this blog post I am only referring to Diplotaxis erucoides.

This is not real wasabi, this is an edible leaf herb that is far simpler to grow than wasabi, it tastes kind of similar to wasabi, gives a similar nose tingling feeling as wasabi, and it lacks the extreme heat of true wasabi so is easier to eat.

Wasabi herb - Diplotaxis erucoides
Wasabi herb is not particularly rare, many online places have seed for sale and it is dreadfully simply to grow from seed, yet for some reason few people tend to grow them.

I wrote an earlier post saying how happy I was with it at the time. I have continued to grow this since then and have learned a few things so thought it was probably time to write another blog post.





One of the least important things I have learned is this wasabi herb is not a true annual. Some of my wasabi herb plants did flower and die, others flower and stay alive to produce leaves and more flowers for another year or two. I have one of the original plants that is still alive and flowering. We often call things like this annuals when they really are short lived perennials. This annual/perennial distinction is not as black and white as we often pretend it is. It also doesn’t really matter as most people will grow these as annuals and kill plants after they flower and set seed.

The time from seed to the first leaf harvest is rather short. Unfortunately I have not recorded it. I record when I plant seed, then I forget until it has been flowering for a few weeks. In the heat of summer, or if transplanted, they will bolt to flower quickly. Over cooler months they will produce leaves for a lot longer.
Wasabi herb flowering, you can hear it humming from all the bees
While wasabi herb does not love the heat, it seems to grow well over the cooler months. I am happy to say that wasabi herb is not damaged by frosts. We get hard frosts here and my plants seem un-phased by it. Some will flower while it is frosty which is a really great trait to have.

Honey bees, and several native pollinators, adore wasabi herb. It produces plenty of nectar and pollen (I have read that its pollen contains 23% – 24% protein which is slightly higher than most of the pollen they collect) and flowers in such profusion that it must make collecting resources a lot easier for little insects.

I have grown many flowers that are supposed to attract bees yet rarely ever see a bee on them, wasabi herb really does attract bees. While it is flowering, if the weather is good for bees to be out foraging, I always see numerous bees working it. I have seen other flowers only worked by bees if nothing else is around, but wasabi herb is one of their absolute favourites.

Another favourite where I always see bees is the poppy, which does not produce nectar but its pollen contains over 40% protein! Honey bees madly work poppies in the morning, once all the pollen has been collected they are of no interest to the bees and they move on to other things.
Wasabi herb, one of the bee's favourite flowers
If seeds are scattered every few weeks or months you end up with a self-sustaining patch of wasabi herb plants of varying ages that flowers almost all year. Each individual plant won’t flower all year, but some of the plants in the patch will be flowering at any point in time. This means that bees always have a high quality food source nearby.

I have grown wasabi herb in the vegetable garden, where it performs at its best. I have allowed seeds to fall among the lawn, where it grows and flowers as long as you don't mow too often. I have also scattered seeds among roadside weeds that are rarely mown to see if it survives there, I am waiting to see if it establishes itself there to permanently provide resources for the bees.
 
Wasabi herb - Diplotaxis erucoides

I keep meaning to collect enough seed to be able to sell them, but every time I save some seed I seem to give it away to people who need it.  If I ever do have enough seed to sell I will list it on my for sale page.  Failing that there are many seed sellers who carry this little gem, just be sure to use its binomial name (Diplotaxis erucoides) when searching as common names are a bit confusing.