Showing posts with label permaculture vegetables. Show all posts
Showing posts with label permaculture vegetables. Show all posts

Monday 19 February 2024

Igloo tomatoes

One of my first attempts at breeding tomatoes is also one of my best.  This project began when I was in high school where I had limited access to germplasm and limited knowledge of genetics and breeding.  

I was aiming to breed a tasty, highly productive, early ripening tomato that did not need much water.  Igloo tomatoes tick all of these boxes and more.  

Igloo tomatoes produce red and round tomatoes, they are small salad size tomato, but large enough to be sliced onto sandwiches.  They are remarkably uniform in size, each weighing slightly under 50 grams.

Igloo tomatoes weight almost 50g each

Igloo tomato plants are stocky compact things only growing to around 1 foot tall, sometimes reaching under 2 feet tall.  Being smaller plants means the space can be used for other things, it also means they are not draining nutrients from the soil merely to produce length of stem.  They do require staking as the amount of fruit they produce is too much even for stout little trunks to hold without some support.  

Being small plants does not mean they are less productive, incredibly Igloo tomatoes are one of the most productive tomatoes I grow.  

Each truss has around 16 flowers, sometimes a few more or a few less.  Each plant produces several hundred red round fruit over the season, for me when crammed in too close to other tomato plants they usually around 12kg of ripe fruit.  This doesn't sound like a lot, but 12 kg of fruit produced on a plant that is only a foot tall and one foot wide is spectacular.  

Igloo tomatoes

For me they are always among the first tomatoes to ripen.  Last time I recorded days, it took 147 days from planting the seed until I picked the first ripe fruit.  This is incredibly quick.  They produce the bulk of fruit before other varieties (including most cherry tomatoes) even start to ripen.  

It is probably best described as semi-determinate.  It does produce a lot of fruit early in the season when no other tomatoes are ripe, and it produces fewer fruits towards the end of the season when many larger and later varieties are ripening.  Even though it is producing less towards the later end of the season, igloo tomatoes always keep producing up until a killing frost.  I have never tried to overwinter them, so don't know how long they can live if protected.

The fruit has a little elbow on the stem, making picking ripe fruit easy an fast.  I think they have the uniform ripening gene, which means the fruit are very evenly red.  I am not a huge fan of the uniform ripening gene, and much prefer fruit with green shoulders, but it was prevalent in the germplasm I had access to at the time I was developing this variety.  

Igloo tomato

Igloo tomatoes never crack or split even if watering is erratic.  I have never had any blossom end rot on these even when other varieties planted next to them are besotted in blossom end rot.  Never cracking, and never succumbing to blossom end rot, means there is not a lot of wasted fruit.

Not only are they among the first to ripen in my garden, they are also one of the few varieties that consistently provide large yields.  Some years the conditions are a bit harsh and other varieties don't really crop, igloo tomatoes always produce about 12 kg of ripe fruit for me.  

Igloo tomatoes produce large seeds, meaning that seed saving is simple.  Larger seeds also tend to remain viable for longer than small seeded varieties.  While seed is always best when relatively fresh, I have grown seed from this that was over 20 years old and had been stored dry in a cupboard.  

igloo tomatoes - not all are ripe enough

I find that these taste ok when not quite ripe enough, but taste great if left to ripen fully.  I tend to allow them to ripen on the plant, but they can be picked early and ripened on the bench.  Like every tomato, they taste best if not put in the fridge.  

I have no idea how well this variety copes with humid coastal conditions, all I know is it performs well for me and produces large amounts of food even with a short growing season.

I have donated seeds of Igloo tomato to a few different community seed saving groups (and encouraged them to distribute the seeds among their members) as it does have the potential to feed a lot of people using a small amount of space.  I hoped to get some feedback about how they perform under different conditions in people's backyards.  Unfortunately I have never heard anything from any of them, and don't know if they have even planted the seeds.  I hope that at least some of them shared the seeds among their members.  

While I am biased because I developed this variety, I think it is a great tomato.  It tastes good, looks nice, provides a huge crop on a small plant, never suffers diseases, ripens early, and is simple to save seeds from.  

If you are interested in buying seed for Igloo tomatoes I list them on my for sale page along with various other vegetable seeds, perennial vegetable plants, and edible herbs.  


Friday 16 February 2024

Giant Broad Leaf Dandelion

I have been breeding dandelions (Taraxacum officinale) for a few years.  Not just deliberately growing them, but intentionally breeding with the aim of improving them.

Given that every part of this remarkable plant is edible and useful, I mostly focused on breeding for larger leaves.  I also grow pink dandelions (Taraxacum pseudoroseum), I have not done any breeding work with pink dandelions and given how difficult it is to work with them I like never will.  

Giant dandelion leaf 47cm long

Breeding dandelions is difficult, I find it far more difficult than other vegetables.  

The 'flower' on a dandelion plant is hundreds of tiny flowers crammed closely together.  Individual dandelion flowers are tiny.  All parts of the flowers are tiny and are very difficult to work with.  Emasculating flowers to prevent self pollination is difficult as they are tiny, and not always effective as they can produce seeds through apomixis without any pollination.  Due to apomixis, when cross pollinating I have no idea if the cross worked, or if the resultant seed will be a clone of the mother plant.  Adding selective pressure does not always cause genetic drift, again this is due to apomixis.  

Further complicating dandelion breeding is the fact that most dandelions are triploid, and most dandelions in Australia are usually sterile triploids that reproduce by obligate apomixis.  

Unfortunately, while I understand the theory of this, I don't have a good understanding of what this means in practice.  There has been some research into dandelion ploidy and breeding, which I found interesting.  This research indicates that while it should be theoretically impossible to breed using triploid dandelions, it is experimentally possible.  

While there was a concerted effort to breed dandelions, there is very little literature on how to breed dandelions.  Most of this was written by the Soviets, is poorly translated, and largely deals with Taraxacum koksaghyz and breeding it for rubber yield.  

I believe there were a few dandelion farms in Tasmania and Western Australia.  Like much of this country's past, this seems to have been largely forgotten and lost to history.  I wish I could get hold of T koksaghyz, perhaps some day I will track down someone who has seed that they are willing to share with me.  

For these reasons I gave dandelion breeding my best shot, hoped it would work, and figured nothing useful would come of it.  I am happy to say, my breeding efforts yielded impressive results (and at the same time was kind of pointless).

These dandelion leaves grow wide

When starting to breed dandelions I focused mostly on length of leaves as this is simple to measure.  Dandelions produce longer leaves in certain seasons, and under certain growing conditions, so I had to be careful to 'compare apples with apples'. 

Dandelion grow out - leaf comparison

I have a good line in which mature plants consistently produces leaves around 50cm long.  This was a good start.  I considered leaving it there, but my plants weren't as useful as I wanted them to be.  

I had a few plants that produced leaves that were not quite as long, but were wider at certain times of the year.  These are probably more useful as a vegetable.  More leafy and less stalk.  I wondered if I could work with these wider plants, and make them even more useful.  So I (somewhat begrudgingly) did some more breeding work with them.  

Giant dandelion on left, regular dandelion on right

After a lot of fiddly work, most of which yielded exact clones of the parent plant or no seed at all due to rough handling, I started to see some progress.  This encouraged me to do a little more work.  

Again my efforts were largely frustrated by either aborted seed or exact clones of the parent, but among them were some successes.  I am certainly no expert in this area, and my results were patchy at best.  After quite some time my giant edible dandelions are incredible.  

The leaves of my dandelions often measure 6 to 7 inches wide, and are usually a little under 50 cm long.  In winter the leaves are smaller, if they don't have enough water they are smaller, and if shaded they can grow a little larger.  

Dandelion leaf over 6 inches wide

These larger wider leaves are great.  They are far more useable in a salad, or easier to feed to animals.  While I haven't tried it, I assume they could be used to wrap food similar to grape leaves or mulberry leaf. 

I am not keen on how bitter raw dandelion leaves can be, these large broad leaves taste milder and much less bitter.  Dandelion leaves tend to be less bitter before flowering, and become increasingly bitter as the plant flowers.  These giant broad dandelion leaves are pretty mild even when in bloom.  I didn't select for this trait, it was just a nice surprise with the giant plants.  

These plants need more water than lawn weeds if they are to reach their potential.  Regular lawn dandelions don't cope in the dry, these giant broad leaf dandelions really don't cope being very dry.  They tend to survive being dry if they are well established, but the resultant plants are a mere fraction of the size of what they could have been.  

Being so large, these plants need room to grow.  When grown in a pot they are always stunted.  When grown in the garden their roots can penetrate deep in search of nutrients, and they grow far larger.  They survive surprisingly well with competition, but grow a lot larger and faster if you remove their competition.  

I don't think it comes as a surprise to anyone that fertile soil is needed for them to grow large.  Poor soils result in much smaller plants.  

Dandelion leaf over 6 inches wide

These massive dandelions also seem to suffer from a leaf disease from time to time.  This disease produces spots on the leaves, it is possibly some form of leaf rust fungus.  I see this appear on regular dandelions from time to time, but it seems to affect the giant ones far more.  

Dandelion leaf spot

I am sure you could spray with something to control this.  I grow everything organically, so I am not sure how to prevent this disease, all I know is if I leave the infected leaf alone the disease will spread to other leaves.  When I see this disease I remove infected leaves and feed them to the guinea pigs or chickens, this seems to stop it spreading.  

I don't put the infected leaf in the compost for fear it will produce spores and spread, feeding it to an animal seems to destroy the pathogen.  The plant grows replacement leaves and is healthy once the spotty leaf has been removed.  This indicates that the disease is not systemic.  

Dandelion leaves over a foot and a half long

Growing dandelions from seed is simple.  They germinate best when fresh, and germination rates seem to decline quickly as seed ages.  I find light improves germination, so I plant dandelion seed much like lettuce seed.  I plant them in pots or trays of soil, and press seeds into the mix and water in.  From there I treat them the same as I treat lettuce.  

I tend to sow the seeds reasonably thick.  Dandelion seedlings start out small.  I let the seedlings grow a while before transplanting them somewhere in the garden.  Once transplanted, they need a lot of water to become established, other than that I treat them like any vegetable.  

Dandelion seedlings
Dandelion seedlings larger and ready for transplanting

After several years and an absurd amount of effort, I now have good lines of giant dandelions.  They are so large that when people see an individual leaf they often ask me what they are, and do not believe me when I explain they are dandelions.  

I do sell seed of these giant dandelions, as well as pink dandelions, through my for sale page.  The flowers were open pollinated, but there is a good chance they will produce plants that are clones of the mother.  If they were somehow pollinated by another plant, they will have 50% genes from the mother plant and should still grow huge.  If you are interested, everything I have for sale will be listed on my for sale page.  


Monday 12 February 2024

Mulberry tree for food security

A mulberry tree is like a vegetable garden on a trunk.  

Mulberry trees are well known for producing delicious berries.  What many people do not realise is that mulberry trees also produce abundant and surprisingly nutritious leafy greens.  

I have cooked and eaten mulberry leaves, they taste nice and can be used like spinach or silverbeet.  I have only cooked eaten young leaves.  I imagine older leaves would be too fibrous and I can't imagine raw leaves to taste all that nice.   

Mulberry leaf as a vegetable

While there is little mention of them on the internet, mulberry leaves are eaten as a vegetable in several places such as Cuba and Latin America.    

Mulberry trees produce well with little (or no) irrigation, can thrive in many climates from frosty temperate areas to the tropics, thrive on many different soil types, they have few significant pests, and they produce well on many different soil types.  Mulberries are remarkable trees that are drastically underutilised for food security, they are excellent fodder for livestock, and are a great vegetable for people.  

The taste of cooked mulberry leaves is ok, not bitter or objectionable, but also not remarkable.  I have started to see people sharing recipes using mulberry leaves to wrap lamb or chicken or rice or tofu, similar to how people use grape leaves.  Given how nutritious and abundant they are I think mulberry leaves deserve to be eaten more commonly.

Stuffed mulberry leaves - image from https://maryamsculinarywonders.blogspot.com/2019/04/1234-freekeh-stuffed-mulberry-leaves.html 

Mulberry leaves typically contain more than triple the amount of protein found in many vegetables, and under normal circumstances mulberry trees can produce up to double the amount of protein per acre compared to soy.  

If you don't already have a mulberry tree, you should consider growing one.  Mulberry trees are one of the simplest fruit trees to grow, they grow very fast, and mulberry leaf is the easiest vegetable for beginners to grow and the most productive vegetable for beginners to grow.  

Cutting grown mulberry tree

A study was undertaken comparing the nutritional value of fresh leaves from six different genotypes of mulberry.  Even though there is a bit of a range of values between cultivars it demonstrates that mulberry leaves are far more nutritious than most vegetables we commonly eat.   

I have summarised their findings below:

  • Moisture 71.13 to 76.68% 
  • Protein 4.72 to 9.96% (most vegetables have about 2% or less) 
  • Ash 4.26 to 5.32% (ash is the mineral content: calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, zinc, etc) 
  • Neutral Detergent Fiber 8.15 to 11.32%  
  • Fat 0.64 to 1.51% 
  • Carbohydrates 8.01 to 13.42% 
  • Energy 69 to 86 kcal/100 g 
  • Vitamin C 160 to 280 mg/100 g (oranges have 50 mg)
  • Beta-carotene 10,000 to 14,688 mcg/100 g (carrots have 8,729 mcg)
  • Iron 4.70-10.36 mg/100 g (spinach has 2.6 mg)
  • Zinc 0.22-1.12 mg/100 g 
  • Calcium 380-786 mg/100 g (full fat cow milk has about 120 mg)

Recently a desktop review was conducted comparing several options for households producing all their own protein when there are future disruptions to supply chains.  Their conclusions were unrealistic at best, but they made me think about back yard food production.  

We have a good size vegetable garden, but it is nowhere near large enough to supply our household with all our protein requirements.  We also have a few egg laying chickens, and some fruit trees, including a white mulberry (Morus alba) and a white shahtoot mulberry.  

Following on from the growing protein study linked to above, and given how nutritious mulberry leaves are, I wondered how many mulberry trees I would need to produce all my protein for a year.  So, out of curiosity I crunched some numbers similar to the desktop review.  The results were interesting.  

Mulberry leaf stuffed with chicken - image from https://www.greenprophet.com/2013/05/stuffed-mulberry-leaves-recipe/

A lot of research has been conducted into mulberry tree leaves as they (mulberry leaves, not the berries) are commercially important due to silkworm farming.  I used this research to work out how much protein a mulberry tree can produce, and how many trees would be required for a year supply of protein.  

Often, about 9,600 mulberry trees are grown per hectare or almost 4,000 per acre, this works out to just under one per sqm.  Yields of fresh leaves range from 3.2–21 tons/acre/year (8–52 tons/hectare/year) with most in the 8–12 tons/acre/year (20–30 tons/hectare/year).  This means that on average, each year roughly 2.5kg of leaves are harvested per mulberry tree.  

The protein in mulberry leaves ranges from 15-35% dry weight, or 4.72-9.96% of the fresh weight.  I used 6.5% for the protein content of fresh leaves in my calculations, which is lower than the average.  That works out to 162.5 grams of protein per tree being produced from leaves alone, meaning a one year supply of protein for one person can be provided by the leaves harvested from approximately 112 mulberry trees.   

Mulberry leaves are abundant vegetables

To give this perspective, commercially potatoes yield about 4kg per sqm, providing about 80 grams of protein per sqm.  That’s about 228 sqm of growing area for potatoes per person if relying solely on potatoes to meet protein requirements.  Mulberry trees would only use about 53% of the total land that would be required to grow potatoes and produce the same amount of protein.  As I said earlier, a mulberry tree is like a vegetable garden on a trunk.  

Soy is a legume crop that is known for producing high amounts of protein per acre.  Soy is said to produce up to 513,066 grams of protein per acre.  

Around 4,000 mulberry trees are planted per acre, each yielding 2.5kg of leaves with 6.5% (or more) protein fresh weight.  This produces over 650,000 g protein per acre, which is significantly more protein per acre than soy.  

If growing a mulberry variety with 10% protein in fresh leaves it would produce double the amount of protein that soy can produce per acre.  Mulberry trees produce more protein per acre than soy.  

White mulberry tree outside my back fence 

Comparing the water requirements is a bit more difficult and far less accurate, so you have to take the following 'with a grain of salt'.  

Not surprisingly, I could not find any publications directly comparing the water requirements of mulberry and soy.  According to Agriculture Victoria (https://agriculture.vic.gov.au/crops-and-horticulture/grains-pulses-and-cereals/growing-grains-pulses-and-cereals/growing-soybean-in-victoria), soy requires an average of 2.6 Megaliters of water per acre.  According to the Rural Industries Research and Development (https://agrifutures.com.au/wp-content/uploads/publications/00-056.pdf) mulberry tree plantations require less than 1.3 Megaliters per acre.  

Using the above calculations it appears that mulberry trees could produce about double the amount of protein per acre compared to soy, while using half the irrigation.  Mulberry trees can produce good amounts of protein per acre in marginal areas where soy will not produce any crop because the climate and soils and climate are not right for soy.  

Who knew that mulberry leaves can produce that much much more protein per acre that soy!  

Mulberry cutting

Does all of this mean I am suggesting that people should grow 112 mulberry trees each to produce all their protein needs?  Absolutely not.  

Even though it would be really cool, replacing the lawn with an orchard of heavily coppiced mulberry trees isn’t something that people would want to do.  

While growing this many mulberry trees may be possible in some yards, and would take less time and effort to look after than the average lawn of the same size, I don’t think it is realistic, and I'm not planning on doing that.  

10cm tall to 6 feet tall in under 5 months

I can’t imagine what a miserable existence it would be having to eat about a kilogram of mulberry leaves each and every day to meet your protein requirements.  I don't know what you would do over winter while the deciduous trees are leafless.  

I am not suggesting you plant 2 or 3 mulberry trees, and eat nothing but mulberry leaves for a few weeks each year.  I am also not suggesting that you should grow a mulberry and regularly incorporate its leaves in your meals over the growing months. 

Mulberry leaf plantation
Mulberry leaf plantation. Image by Nahid Hossain, Creative Commons 4.0 license

What I am suggesting is growing a mulberry tree, or several mulberry trees, is a good idea if you have the space.  It will add to your food security even if you never eat the leaves.  

The estimated leaf yields above are based on coppiced trees that are regularly harvested for silkworm production.  When grown like this there are no berries, just leaves.  

Most backyard mulberry trees would not grow like this, most would be allowed to produce berries and develop into large trees with a single trunk or as a multi trunked tree.  As the trees grow larger, they produce increasing yields of both berries and leaves.  

The FAO mentions very old trees in China producing 400kg of berries and 225kg of fresh leaves in a year.  What an incredible sight they must be!  

My mulberry producing food from otherwise unused land

A mulberry tree would increase your food security.  Each year you can eat some berries (they are utterly delicious), or you can grow the tree in your chicken run and let your chickens eat them, if your chickens eat all the berries you will save a little money on chicken feed and help your chickens be a little healthier.  Or you can let the birds take care of them for you.  From time to time the leaves can be eaten, or made into tea, or just left alone to allow the tree to gain energy and grow larger.  

During times of financial hardship, you hear regular stories of vegetable gardens being raided and produce being stolen (and/or destroyed).  While people would probably take some berries, it is unlikely during an emergency that your neighbours would take any leaves from your mulberry tree as they would not recognise them as being edible or as being high in protein and vitamins.  This adds to your food security as you would have a tree full of leaves to cook if you ran low on everything else.  You could use the leaves like spinach, except mulberry leaves are far more nutritious.  

Fresh mulberry leaves can grow large

Chickens and other small animals enjoy eating mulberry leaves.  When hard times hit, you may be unable to buy food for chickens or other little animals .  You certainly don't want them to starve.  The mulberry tree can be used to reduce the amount of bought feed you are using, to get you through until you are able to buy animal feed again.  This also adds to your food security.  

Mulberry trees appear to be the ultimate perennial vegetable.  Most people who have eaten the leaves cooked enjoyed them, some felt neutral about them, so far I have never met anyone who has disliked them.  People tend not to eat mulberry leaves as a vegetable often due to the cultural taboo surrounding eating tree leaves.  For some reason we have been told to view tree leaves as a famine food rather than a sustainable and easy to grow perennial vegetable.  There is nothing wrong with eating healthy organic leaves from mulberry trees.  

Having a nice-looking shade tree in your yard, that is able to provide you with delicious berries in season, and a few handfuls of vegetable leaves if needed, seems like a sensible thing to do.  If you can get past the idea of tree leaves being famine food, all the better! 


Tuesday 19 December 2023

Grow water chestnuts in milk bottles

I have written a few blog posts on growing Chinese water chestnuts in buckets and flexitubs, it's easy and they are very productive when grown like that.  As well as this I also grow a few aquatic vegetables in milk bottles.  

Growing water chestnuts in a milk bottle is not ideal.  When grown like this the yield is low or even non-existent, but it keeps the plants alive.  They can survive by growing in a milk bottle like this for years.  

I cut the base off a plastic milk bottle, fill it three quarters with soil, plant a corm, and add water to the top.  From here, I just top up the water.  Simple.    

Chinese water chestnuts 

I first did this as a short term thing so I could sell duck potatoes or water chestnuts at a garage sale.  I told people to plant them into something larger if they wanted an edible size crop.  Someone asked me how long the plants can survive like this because their pond was not yet ready.  I didn't know, I told them to give it a try and if they died I would replace them.  I never heard back so assumed it went well.  

Out of curiosity I kept growing some Chinese Water chestnuts in milk bottles to see how long they can last like this.  I assumed they would last a few months with no problem.  It turns out they will live like this for several years!  

Below are duck potatoes and watercress growing in a milk bottle.  This is their third year.  The water cress drops seed and grows by itself.  The duck potatoes go dormant each winter.  They multiply, but only slowly due to the lack of space.  

Duck potatoes growing in a milk bottle

Below is another milk bottle, this has water chestnuts, duck potatoes, and watercress.  This one has azolla and duck weed growing on the surface of the water.  The azolla and duckweed die back over winter, and come in strong once the weather warms.  

This photo was taken at the start of spring when everything was just breaking dormancy.  Once the weather warms the duckweed and azolla will cover the water surface, and becomes a self mulching living fertiliser.   They also seem to prevent mosquitoes from breeding in the milk bottle.

Duck potato, water chestnuts, and water cress

What you can't see from my photos is the amount of life in the water.  It is incredible just how many tiny organisms are in there.  There are heaps of tiny things swimming around that can be seen even without a microscope.  

Putting a drop of this water on a slide and viewing under a microscope is something else.  My kids are fascinated by the sheer number of things teeming in the water.  It isn't the number of things that surprises me, it is their diversity.  There are a lot of things living in there, and there are plenty of different types of things.  It is a remarkably diverse little ecosystem.  

I can't tell you how these tiny critters got in there, but I can tell you that they are thriving.

Azolla and duck weed starting to come back

I also tried putting a small pot of soil in the cut off bottom of a milk bottle.  Below you can see a water chestnut emerging from dormancy.  Once it gets taller I will fill up the milk bottle with water.  If I want I can either plant it into a larger pot, or just leave it for another year.  

Again, if grown like this the yield will be very small.  They need more soil to grow properly.  They can and do survive like this for several years, so this can be a good way to keep them short term while you get something larger ready for them.  If life gets in the way, short term can push out to a few years.  

Water chestnut in small pot of soil

It can be difficult to buy Chinese water chestnuts or duck potatoes at certain times of year.  Many people want to buy them to put in a pond or a water feature, but need more time to plan and build the water feature.  Buying the plants when they are available, and growing them in the base of a milk bottle like this, solves the problem.  They easily survive like this as long as needed, and can be planted into the water feature when it is ready.  If it isn't ready until next year, that's fine.

I have a for sale page on this blog where I sell water chestnuts and duck potatoes and other perennial vegetables in Australia.  I update the page regularly, and it has my email address that you can use to contact me.  


Thursday 30 November 2023

Flexi tub pond for vegetables

For over ten years I have been growing water chestnuts in a bucket.  It is simple, it is cheap, and it works well enough.  For the past seven or so years I also grew some duck potatoes and Chinese water chestnuts in a large flexitub with some soil in it.  

From this I got much the same result as I get from growing them in a bucket, but a yield of larger corms.  Strangely, I seemed to get a similar number of corms, but the flexi tub seemed to grow a lot more larger ones that were of edible size.  

Unlimited water, unlimited air, no weeds, aquatic veggies grow fast

As with the buckets, these tubs eventually degrade and fall apart from the sun.  Below are photos of a flexitub that I have been using as a pond, it has been there about seven years.  

The photos below were taken at the beginning of spring when the duck potatoes were starting to break dormancy.  You can see in the photo above that the duck potatoes get a lot taller than this and largely shade the water.  

Duck potatoes in flexitub

Being in a larger pond meant there was more room for soil, and the temperature doesn't fluctuate as much as the buckets.  I allowed azolla and duckweed to grow in there, eventually they cover the surface of the water and start to mulch down.  

Small birds come to drink from my flexitub, and dragonflies and water beetles seem to breed in there.  Over summer when the surface is covered in azolla, honey bees come and drink from my pond. 

The birds seem to prefer the larger tubs to the buckets, I like being able to provide some water for them over summer.  
Leaf litter breaks down to fertilise the plants

You may also notice that these larger tubs catch a fair bit of leaf litter and lots of flower petals, all of this breaks down to fertilise the plants. As the plants get taller they almost act as a net, catching leaves from the air, and depositing them in my tiny pond.  

The photos below were taken towards the end of spring.  You will notice a lot of growth happened over this time.  These plants have the best of all worlds.  They have unlimited access to fresh water, unlimited access to air, plenty of direct sunlight, lots of nutrients in the mud, never any weeds, and a healthy little ecosystem which captures and cycles nutrients.  

It doesn't take them long to grow large

Over winter I will add leaf litter from when I clear out the house gutters, and this combined with whatever else that lands in the water provides all the fertiliser needed for the growing season.

When it is windy the leaves capture anything that is blowing around and directs it into the tub.  This breaks down and feeds the plants.  Various insects such as dragon flies and water beetles breed in the water.  These insects eventually die in the water, and their little bodies eventually break down and feed the plants.  

Some insects that breed in there would fly away, taking nutrients with them, but this little tub seems to accumulate nutrients overall.  

Sadly these flexi tubs don't last forever.  You can see the one above is starting to degrade, it may only have another year or two left in it.  

I have had it in full sun, getting hit by wind, hail, heavy frost, and storms for over seven years.  While I would prefer it lasted a lot longer, seven or so years isn't too bad. 

These flexi tubs are great little ponds for emergent aquatic vegetables such as Chinese water chestnuts, duck potatoes, water celery, brahmi, and water cress.  If you were growing something like Lotus or Water Lillies they may do ok, but may benefit from a larger tub.  

Chinese water chestnuts 

Duck potatoes 

I have a for sale page where I sell water chestnuts and duck potatoes and other perennial vegetables in Australia.  I update the page regularly, and it has my email address that you can use to contact me.   

Friday 24 November 2023

Water Celery Variegated vs Green

I have been growing water celery (Oenanthe javanica) for a long time.  I have had it since at least  2015, I possibly even grew it for a year or two prior to that. 

I grow the colourful and attractive variegated flamingo or rainbow form.  It has a bunch of common names including: water parsley, Java waterdropwort, Japanese parsley, Chinese celery, rainbow water parsley.  This is a very vigorous, and very simple to grow perennial vegetable.  

Interestingly, the native range of this perennial vegetable is a whole bunch of countries, including Australia.  

Variegated water celery for sale Australia
Variegated water celery

Water celery has amazingly strong growth, while it seems to prefer having its roots submerged and its leaves out of the water it can grow in deeper water as long as its leaves can reach the surface, or it can grow on 'dry land' like a regular vegetable.  

It handles hard frosts well, and tolerates extremely high temperatures if it has water.  Full sun and part shade both seem to work well for this plant.  

When water celery is grown in floating raft aquaponics it can be used to effectively filter the water.  I trialed it with my goldfish barrelponics and it worked well.  It can be used to filter grey water, it is good at removing pollutants due to its fast growth rate.  

Above all this, water celery is edible.  It tastes like mild celery, and loses much of the taste when cooked for too long so is best added towards the end of cooking.  

I am not a huge fan of celery, so tend not to eat much of it myself.  Chickens and guinea pigs and other animals enjoy eating water celery raw.  The times of year that we don't have much grass I feed handfulls of water celery to our animals.  While water celery is great in the compost, I prefer to feed it to the chickens as I think that is a better use.

For years I have grown the rather pretty variegated form, and it is a very vigorous plant.  I have heard when planted next to a pond it tends to take over somewhat.  

I am told that the pure green form is far more vigorous.  I originally wanted the green variety, but couldn't find it.  A few places sell this green one online, but I can't justify the price when I already grow the variegated one.  I had hoped mine would throw a non-variegated runner, but that hasn't happened yet.    

Vigorous plant outgrowing its pot
Variegated water celery growing out of its pot

My plants sometimes flower.  They start to set seed, then each year something happens and I don't get around to collecting any seed to grow.  Sometimes it gets too dry and the flowers are scorched, or something eats off the flower heads, or I just forget about it and have no idea what happened to the seed.

The last time my plants flowered, I forgot about them and they were largely covered by fallen leaves.  Recently I was clearing up that part of the garden and noticed a plant.  It looks like a tiny water celery seedling.  It appears to be entirely green.  I was lucky that I even saw this little one.  

This little plant is most likely seed grown.  

Dark green water celery

I carefully dug up this little plant, put it in a small pot, and moved it somewhere safe.  Since then it has grown very quickly and started to divide.  Hopefully it is even more vigorous than its variegated parent.  

The parent has pink stems, with light green leaves edged in white and pink or purple.  The colouration becomes more vivid in cooler weather.  It really is rather pretty.  

This little plant is darker green, with dark green stems and dark green leaves.  Presumably this darker green is from increased chlorophyll.  Extra chlorophyll means it should have a massive advantage when it comes to growth rate, and it should be more vigorous than its variegated parent.  

I can hardly wait to see what it can do.  

Non-variegated water celery

From here I hope this plant grows well, and in time I hope to divide it.  Given how much it has grown in a week I don't think this will take very long.  I haven't tasted this plant yet, hopefully it tastes a little stronger than the variegated one.  

I will try to post an update on this plant in a few months once it has had some time to do some growing and I have had a chance to eat a little of it.  

Green water celery

When I have divided this plant enough I would like to try some as the filter for my goldfish barrelponics as I think it may perform well there.  Vietnamese coriander grows exceptionally well in my barrelponics over the warmer months, but stops growing over winter.  

I have a feeling the green water celery may grow well over the cooler months, and a combination of Vietnamese coriander and green water celery should be an excellent water filter.  

Green Water Celery

Green water celery has grown and divided

I currently sell bare rooted plants of the variegated rainbow water celery, I have some perennial vegetables for sale and other interesting plants on my for sale page.  At some stage in the future I may also have some of the green version for sale.  I post perennial vegetable throughout Australia, but not to WA or Tasmania at this stage.  


Friday 10 November 2023

Pink Dandelion

Pink dandelions (Taraxacum pseudoroseum) are probably a little different than you may think.  Pink dandelions are available in Australia, I have been growing them for a few years.  They are a pretty little flower that should be grown more commonly.  

I wrote an earlier post on pink dandelions and after growing them for a few years thought it may be time to do an update.  All of the photos on this post are of my plants, you will notice that there is a bit of diversity in colours, this is mostly due to the age of the flower.  

Pink Dandelion
I like regular dandelions (Taraxacum officionale), you know the ones in the lawn with yellow flowers.  They have a huge number of uses in an organic garden.  Pink dandelions are a different species Taraxacum pseudoroseum, they are just as useful and perhaps a little prettier.  

All parts of dandelions, both regular ones and the pink ones, are edible.  The leaves are incredibly high in vitamins and minerals, far more nutritious than most leaf vegetables.  Leaves are especially high in vitamin C.  The roots can be roasted and eaten like a parsnip, or they can be dried and ground to use like a caffein free coffee.  Even though I have never tried this myself, the flowers can be made into cordials or wine.  

Dandelions are great in the compost, they are often referred to as a 'compost activator'.  What this means is they contain high amounts of all the nutrients needed for the microbes in compost.  If you compost something that is low in a certain mineral, adding a compost activator is adding something that is high in that mineral.  Dandelions are high in pretty much everything, so they make a good compost activator.  

Starts white and gets pinker each day

Pink dandelions look superficially much like lawn dandelions, but perhaps a little smaller and the leaves never get very upright.  When not in bloom I would not be able to tell them apart.

When the flowers first open they are either all white, or white with a yellow center.  The white slowly becomes light pink the first day, and then gets darker pink each day.  

The photo below shows some pink dandelions blooming.  The white one opened that day, and the pinker one opened the day before.  It is fun how they change colour and become more pink as they age.  

Pink Dandelions blooming

The flowers almost always retain the yellow centre.  That being said, I have had a few that opened completely white and turned completely pink.  This is rare, and I believe has more to do with environment than genetics as other flowers on the same plant had the usual yellow center.  

Pink Dandelion Blooms

Beneficial insects are attracted to the flowers.  Larger pollinators such as bees, beetles, and hover flies love dandelion flowers.  If you are a beekeeper you would already know just how beneficial dandelions are to a honey bee hive.  Native bees and solitary wasps also benefit greatly from dandelion flowers.  They seem to flower for much of the year, which means pollinators almost always have a food supply.

The pink dandelion flowers also attract and feed many other beneficial insects such as the tiny parasitoid wasp in the picture below.  

These tiny parasitoid wasps kill pest insects that would damage other plants in my garden.  I grow everything organically, so this is important in my garden.  

Tiny beneficial wasp

I don't have any photos of this, but even though dandelion are not native several native birds like dandelion seed heads.  

Some of the smaller birds eat a lot of dandelion seeds.  Superb fairy wrens mostly eat insects (and are more than welcome in my garden), but I have also watched them eat dandelion seed.  We have a few tiny birds that migrate through each year, such as double bar finches and zebra finches, which I have seen eat dandelion seeds.  

Much more interesting than this is some larger birds eat dandelion seeds.  I have seen crimson rosellas eat dandelion seeds many times.  There are a few grass parrots that I have watched eating the seeds.  I have seen galahs and even a cockatoo eat dandelion seeds.

More pink dandelions
Pink dandelions are great

Pink dandelions are easy to grow, but they need a little water.  The pink dandelion are not as hardy as regular lawn dandelions.  I have missed collecting their seed many times, and am yet to find one of these in my lawn.  They grow equally well in a small pot or in the garden bed.  They seem to do well in full sun but appreciate afternoon shade in summer.  

Pink dandelions are simple to grow from seed if the seed is fresh.  I should write another post on growing pink dandelion from seed, even though it is simple the seeds need light to germinate.  I had a plant in a pot that flowered and set seed that I collected.  This original plant died one summer when I did not water its pot and it dried out completely.  All of the plants I now have are seed grown from that original one.  

I do sell pink dandelions from time to time, I should start selling their seed as they are simple to grow from seed.  If you are interested they are listed along with various perennial vegetables for sale.