Saturday, 3 October 2026

Black Rock Scorpion Care Guide: Why They Glow Under UV Light

Keeping Black Rock Scorpion as a Pet

If you've read my previous article, A Lifelong Fascination with Scorpions, you'll already know that I've been fascinated by these incredible animals for as long as I can remember. That fascination eventually led me to keep a Black Rock Scorpion (Urodacus manicatus) as a pet, giving me the chance to observe its behaviour much more closely than I ever could in the wild.

One of the most remarkable things about scorpions is the way they glow under ultraviolet (UV) light. The first time you see it, it almost doesn't seem real.  A scorpion that blends perfectly into its surroundings by day suddenly shines a vivid blue-green under a UV torch, making it stand out against the darkness.  It's one of those natural phenomena that never seems to lose its sense of wonder.

In this article I'll explain why scorpions fluoresce, what scientists think the purpose might be, and share some observations from my own pet.  I'll also discuss the basics of housing and caring for a Black Rock Scorpion, and why I think they make such fascinating animals to observe, even if they're not the sort of pet everyone would choose.

My black rock scorpion 'Ducky'

Meet Ducky - My Black Rock Scorpion

Meet Ducky.  Ducky is my black rock scorpion.  My kids decided this scorpion was too cute to have a fearsome name, and thought 'Ducky' was an appropriate name, and it has stuck.

I have only had Ducky for a few months, and so far all is going well.  Due to body shape and size/shape of pectines (comb like structures underneath the body) I think this is a female.

Ducky, like all black rock scorpions, are nocturnal.  Normally I would not expect to see much of a scorpion, but Ducky can be quite active.  At times I see Ducky walking around her enclosure, other times she is burrowing or even moving small things around.  During cold weather she is less active, and on warmer days I am far more likely to see her.

Affiliate Disclosure: Some links on this page may be affiliate links, meaning I may receive a small commission if you make a purchase through them (at no extra cost to you).  These commissions help support my blog and allow me to continue sharing my experiments, observations, and growing experiences.  I only share products that I think may be useful or interesting.

Scorpions glow under UV light

Quick Facts: Black Rock Scorpion (Urodacus manicatus)

  • Common name: Black Rock Scorpion
  • Scientific name: Urodacus manicatus
  • Native to: Southern and Eastern Australia
  • Adult size: Around 4-6 cm long
  • Lifespan: Up to 10-12 years in captivity
  • Activity: Nocturnal
  • Diet: Insects and other small invertebrates
  • Temperament: Generally calm but will sting if threatened or handled
  • Difficulty: Easy to moderate for beginners interested in invertebrates
  • Can they climb glass? No
  • Do they glow under UV light? Yes - almost all scorpions fluoresce under ultraviolet light
  • Wildlife licence required? No licence is required to keep this species in Australia, although laws about collecting wild animals vary between States and Territories.

What Is a Black Rock Scorpion - Urodacus manicatus

The Black Rock Scorpion (Urodacus manicatus) is one of Australia's larger native scorpions.  Despite their intimidating appearance, they are generally calm animals that spend much of their time hidden away in burrows or beneath rocks, emerging mostly at night to hunt insects and other small invertebrates. 

One of the reasons I chose this species is that they are native to my area, and are legal to keep as pets in Australia without requiring a wildlife licence.  They are also relatively calm, and lower maintenance than many other species.  This makes them an excellent species for anyone interested in observing scorpion behaviour up close.

If you are thinking about getting one, I strongly recommend buying a captive-bred scorpion from a reputable breeder rather than collecting one from the wild.  Captive-bred animals are already accustomed to life in captivity, and purchasing them avoids placing unnecessary pressure on wild populations.

It is also worth remembering that the rules around collecting native wildlife vary between Australian states and territories.  Even where collecting may be permitted, there are often restrictions on where, when, and how animals can be taken (if at all).  Checking your local regulations before considering wild collection, even from your own back yard, is always a good idea.

My scorpion exploring her enclosure

Are Black Rock Scorpions Dangerous?

Black Rock Scorpions are capable of stinging if they are handled or feel threatened, but they are generally not considered medically significant for healthy adults.  I have handled scorpions on and off for many years, and never been stung myself.  I am told that the sting from a black rock scorpion hurts less than a bee sting.

Most stings cause localised pain, redness, and swelling that usually settles over time, although the severity can vary from person to person.

As with any sting, some people may experience a more severe reaction.  Anyone who develops widespread swelling, difficulty breathing, dizziness, or other signs of an allergic reaction should seek urgent medical attention.  If you have a known allergy to insect or arthropod stings, or if you are concerned about your symptoms, it is advisable to seek medical advice after being stung.

In most cases, the best approach is simply to admire Black Rock Scorpions from a distance and avoid handling them unnecessarily.  They are shy, nocturnal animals that play an important role as predators of insects and other small invertebrates.  


Why Do Scorpions Glow Under UV Light?

Scorpions are famous for glowing a bright blue-green colour under ultraviolet (UV) light.  This isn't because they produce their own light.  

Instead, chemicals in the outer layer of their exoskeleton absorb ultraviolet light and re-emit it as visible light, causing the scorpion to fluoresce.  This means they only glow when a source of UV light, such as a blacklight or certain wavelengths of sunlight, shines on them.

Black rock scorpion photographed under daylight
Black Rock Scorpion under daylight
Black rock scorpion photographed under UV light
Same scorpion under ultraviolet light

Scientists still aren't entirely sure why scorpions fluoresce.  Over the years, several ideas have been suggested, including that it helps them detect moonlight, avoid excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation, or even plays a role in communication.  So far, however, no single explanation has been proven, and the exact purpose remains something of a mystery.

Whatever the reason, fluorescence is a feature shared by almost all known scorpions (other than a few rare cave scorpions), making it a useful way for researchers (and curious naturalists) to find them at night.  

If you've ever gone looking for scorpions with a UV torch, you'll know they stand out brilliantly against the dark ground, almost as though someone has painted them with a fluorescent marker.

Scorpions look incredible under UV light

I use this small UV torch to make scorpions glow and make them easier to see.  Interestingly, this UV torch makes many other things glow including lichen, honey, and some spider webs.

For international readers, this is the UV torch I recommend.

These torches are great, they are small, simple to use, and lightweight.

Below is a photo I took of a baby scorpion under regular light, and another photo taken a few seconds later using the UV torch.  I know where the scorpion is in the first photo, but can't see it.  Under ultra violet light it is difficult to miss!

Scorpion difficult to see with ambient light

Scorpion glows brightly under UV light

How To Care For Black Rock Scorpions

Different species of scorpions require different conditions to survive and thrive.  Some live in sandy deserts, others live in cool moist mountain ranges.  Understanding the habitat they come from helps you understand their needs if kept in captivity.

Temperature and Humidity

The natural range of Black Rock scorpions is the Eastern side of Australia.  Populations exist from Adelaide, through lower VIC, through eastern NSW and ACT, right into southern QLD.  

There are populations of black rock scorpions in cold damp places, as well as hotter more arid places.  This is important as it means, unlike several other species, black rock scorpions don’t need a heater.  It also means they are relatively adaptable and should survive in the conditions of my house.

Substrate and Burrowing

Black rock scorpions can get most of their moisture from the substrate they walk on, so I like to house them on damp coco peat and sand.  I tend to keep some water in with them, a milk bottle lid with water is shallow enough that they won't fall in and drown.

They like to have something to hide under, in nature they will often dig a scrape under a rock.  In captivity I find a thick piece of flat bark works well.  I can lift this up when needed without fear of accidentally crushing my little scorpion.

Feeding and Handling

Black rock scorpions eat little invertebrates.  Things that can't bite or sting them are best.  Commercially available feeder insects such as wood roaches, crickets, and mealworms are great options.  Sometimes I keep a small slater in the enclosure, or I will catch a small moth, just to give a bit of diversity in the diet, but more often I will use a feeder insect.  

I find if I put the container of feeder crickets in the fridge for a few minutes the crickets slow down and they are easier to catch.  I then use feeding tweezers as I think they are ideal for feeding scorpions.

For Australian readers, the feeding tweezers I use are available on Amazon.  

For international readers, these long feeding tweezers are the ones I would recommend.

Cleaning and Maintenance

Scorpions do not create a huge amount of mess, but that doesn't mean they are no maintenance.  From time to time I remove any dead feeder insects.  

I keep a small lid with water in it.  I also spray the substrate with water to ensure parts are damp.  I tend to have one end more damp, and the other drier, so Ducky can have options.

Once I have had Ducky a bit longer, I will likely remove and replace some of the substrate to ensure less faecal matter and germs are present.

Enclosure Setup

Many scorpion collectors house them in plastic food containers, or glass tupperware containers.  These certainly can work long term, but don't always look the greatest.

I prefer to use small plastic aquariums as they look good, provide ventilation, and are simple to clean.  

For Australian readers, I use this aquarium from Amazon.

For international readers, I would recommend this small plastic aquarium.

For the substrate I use a mix of cocopeat and sand.  This is easy to use, and good for Ducky to dig in.  As mentioned, I tend to have a bottle lid with water, and a flat piece of bark that the scorpion can hide under.  I also put in a few sticks and things as I like the look of it.

My scorpion enclosure

Molting in Black Rock Scorpions

I have only had Ducky for a few months, most of which has been over winter, so she has not had a chance to moult yet.  I did have a baby scorpion years ago that moulted.

If your scorpion moults, don't touch it.  Leave it alone completely as it needs a few days for the exoskeleton to harden.

Scorpions often become very hungry leading up to a moult, then lose interest in food for several days afterwards.  They usually find somewhere safe to hide, and when the time is right they slowly squeeze out of their old exoskeleton.  The newly emerged scorpion is extremely soft and vulnerable until the new exoskeleton hardens.  It is difficult to believe they can pull their large pincers through such narrow joints, but somehow they manage it.

Unlike something like a cicada, which splits open a large section of its back to emerge, scorpions carefully work their way out through an opening at the front of their old exoskeleton.  It is remarkable to watch, but the best thing you can do is leave them alone.  Interfering during a moult can cause serious injury or prevent them from successfully emerging.

Scorpion at night under UV light

Watching Rather than Handling

One of the biggest surprises for me has been discovering that keeping a scorpion isn't about handling it. 

Unlike many pets, the enjoyment comes from quietly watching natural behaviours such as digging burrows, rearranging substrate, stalking prey, or emerging after dark. The less they're disturbed, the more interesting they become. 

Frequently Asked Questions

Can Black Rock Scorpions climb glass?

No.  Black Rock Scorpions (Urodacus manicatus) cannot climb smooth glass or acrylic surfaces, making a glass terrarium a suitable enclosure.  They are, however, excellent diggers and will happily burrow if given a suitable substrate.  Although they cannot climb smooth glass, I have found Black Rock Scorpions climbing rough tree bark in the wild, so branches and decorations should never allow access to the enclosure lid. 

How long do Black Rock Scorpions live?

Black Rock Scorpions are surprisingly long lived animals.  While lifespan varies between individuals, they can live for 10-15 years in captivity when provided with appropriate care.  Their slow growth and low-maintenance nature are part of what makes them interesting pets.

What do Black Rock Scorpions eat?

Black Rock Scorpions are carnivores that feed mainly on insects and other small invertebrates.  In captivity they can be offered appropriately sized crickets, cockroaches, mealworms, and other feeder insects.  They do not need to eat every day, and healthy adults can comfortably go for surprisingly long periods without food.  They eat far less over winter when temperatures are low.

Can you keep more than one scorpion together?

While some people house them together with no problems, it is generally safest to house Black Rock Scorpions individually.  Although they are not particularly aggressive, scorpions can be territorial and may injure or even eat one another if kept together, particularly if food or suitable hiding places are limited.

Do Black Rock Scorpions need UV light?

No.  Black Rock Scorpions do not require ultraviolet lighting for their health or wellbeing.  They naturally fluoresce under UV light because of chemicals in their exoskeleton, but this is different from needing UV exposure.  While a UV torch is a fun way to observe their glow, it should only be used briefly rather than as a permanent light source. 

Black rock scorpion under UV light

Final Thoughts

Although I've only kept Ducky for a few months, keeping a Black Rock Scorpion has already been a fascinating experience.  They are very different from more traditional pets, but that is part of what makes them so interesting.  Rather than being an animal that seeks attention, a scorpion is something you observe and learn from over time.  It is also a long term commitment, and not to be entered into lightly.

I find it amazing that such a small animal can have such a long evolutionary history and such specialised behaviours.  Watching Ducky dig, explore her enclosure, and glow so brightly under UV light has given me a much greater appreciation for these often misunderstood creatures. 

While they are not a pet for everyone, Black Rock Scorpions can be rewarding for people who enjoy observing natural behaviours and learning about unusual animals.  They are quiet, fascinating, and surprisingly easy to care for when their basic needs are met.

For me, keeping Ducky has been another reminder that the natural world is full of interesting creatures hiding in plain sight.  Sometimes the animals that people are quickest to fear are the ones that become the most fascinating once we take the time to understand them. 


Thursday, 1 October 2026

Perennial Vegetables, Rare Edible Plants and Seeds - October 2026

For Sale: October 2026

October 2026 availability: current availability of perennial vegetable plants, seeds, and other unusual edible plants.

I grow a collection of unusual perennial vegetables, rare edible plants, heirloom seeds, aquatic plants, and other unusual living cultures in my home garden in Australia.  Everything is grown organically by me and in small seasonal batches.  

Most plants are available in small quantities only and some items may sell out during the month.  Availability changes through the year depending on growth cycles and dormancy.

If something is not listed below, it is not currently available this month.  For photographs, botanical names, growing notes, and detailed descriptions of these plants, see my perennial vegetable catalogue.  

Basil mint plant

How to Order

To order, please email me with the items you would like:

damien_beaumont [at] yahoo [dot] com [dot] au

(Replace [at] with @ and [dot] with .) 

I will reply with total cost and payment details.  Orders are posted on Mondays after payment clears.

Postage

  • $12 standard plant and item postage
  • $3.50 seeds only

Bare Rooted Perennial Plants ($5 each unless noted)

Perennial Onions & Alliums

  • Babington leek
  • Everlasting onion

Other Perennial Vegetables 

  • Asparagus - purple
  • French sorrel

Culinary Edible Herbs (Perennial)

  • Brahmi/water hyssop  
  • Jekka's thyme
  • Green water parsley (more vigorous stronger tasting than the variegated form)  
  • Lavender mint 
  • Lemon balm
  • Lemongrass
  • Lime balm
  • Peppermint
  • Sweet violet
  • Vietnamese coriander/Laksa herb
  • Vietnamese fish mint 
  • Variegated water parsley (attractive variegated foliage)
  • Watercress 
  • Willow herb  

Berries & Fruit

  • Pineberry strawberry
  • Pomegranate (seed grown)

Aquatic Plants

  • Azolla – $3 per scoop
  • Duckweed – $3 per scoop

Heirloom and Open-Pollinated Seeds ($4 per packet)

A selection of heirloom, open-pollinated, and home-bred vegetable seeds for seasonal growing in Australian conditions, including rare and unusual vegetable seeds.
  • Black raspberry seed (not plants) (note: requires at least 3 months cold wet stratification to germinate)
  • Giant parsley mix (from my breeding project)
  • Hon Tsai Tai / Choy Sum (purple stem) 
  • Huacatay
  • Immali corn (my own sweet corn breeding project producing purple/pink and white kernels)
  • Muscari grape hyacinth - seeds only, not bulbs
  • Papalo (limited number of packets)
  • Purple hot mustard
  • Purple asparagus
  • Senposai
  • Tomato Snow White
  • Tomato Speckled Roman 
  • Tomato Tommy Toe

Traditional Living Fermentation Cultures - Kefir & Ferments 

I maintain and reculture several traditional cultures myself, including milk kefir, kombucha, Swedish Filmjölk, Matsoni, and Viili.

I'm currently keeping these cultures for my own use rather than offering them for sale at the moment. 
If you're looking for a particular culture, particularly a rarer culture, it may be easier to start with a commercial freeze-dried starter culture.

The following two links are affiliate links, if you buy through these I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. 

I have bought several different cultures from Bacillus Bulgaricus and have been impressed with them. They have an impressive range, the prices seemed reasonable, and I found their freeze-dried cultures quick and easy to use.  I haven't tried every culture they sell, but the ones I have bought all worked well for me. 

For Australia only, NourishMe Organics has a wide range of equipment and supplies that are useful for home fermenting, as well as a few cultures not currently available through Bacillus Bulgaricus.

NEW - Captive Bred Isopods

Healthy captive bred isopods descended from colonies originally collected in my own organic garden.  These fascinating little crustaceans are excellent decomposers and are ideal for bioactive terrariums, vivariums, compost systems, or simply kept and observed as an interesting backyard ecosystem project.

Rough Slaters: Porcellio scaber

  • Starter Culture: 15-20 mixed-age isopods
  • Larger Culture: 40-50 mixed-age isopods
  • Mostly wild grey, may have some attractive mottled brown individuals.

Roll up isopod: Armadillidium vulgare

  • Starter Culture: 15-20 mixed-age isopods
  • Larger Culture: 40-50 mixed-age isopods
  • Mostly gunmetal grey, some with naturally occurring yellow markings.

Pick up or can be posted to NSW, VIC, ACT, QLD and SA (weather permitting).

Introductory price:

  • Starter Culture: $18
  • Larger Culture: $30

Ornamentals/Succulents/Houseplants/Cuttings

  • African violet leaf cutting – 'New Hampshire' $3
  • African violet leaf cutting – double light blue (unnamed variety) $3
  • Aloe vera - small plants $5 
  • Crescent cup liverwort $3
  • Red jelly bean succulent  - plant $5, cuttings $2
  • Ruby necklace - cuttings $2
  • String of beans succulent (sourced from Coober Pedy) - plant $5, cuttings  $2
  • String of pearls succulent - plant $5, cuttings $2
  • Plectranthus Succulent (unnamed variety) $5 
African violet leaves - ready for planting

New to Mudflower?

If this is your first order, you're welcome to start with just one or two plants.  Many people start with a small first order and come back later for more once they've had a chance to see how the plants grow.

If you're looking for something else, have a look through the full plant and seed catalogue.  Many varieties are seasonal and only available at different times of the year.  That page also contains photographs, botanical names, growing notes, and detailed descriptions of these plants.  

Please note my catalogue page lists a lot of things not currently in season/not currently for sale.  The only things I have for sale this month are listed in this blog post above. 

I Try To Include Extra Plants

I have been including extra plants or seeds with orders since I began selling in 2009.  Plants can occasionally be damaged in transit, and I want you to have a good chance of getting them established and producing a crop.  When possible, I try to include extras at no additional charge.  This isn't guaranteed, particularly when I am running low on a particular plant or seed.

A Little Gardening Gift

I have a gift voucher for theseedcollection.com.au that I'm giving away to another gardener.  If you know someone who would really enjoy a little gardening gift - or you'd like to nominate yourself - you can read about the giveaway and nominate someone here [link coming 14 October].

Recommended Books

These are some of the gardening books that have influenced me most over the years.  I don't recommend books simply because they're popular, these are books I've actually found useful in growing unusual vegetables, propagating plants and saving seed.

Disclaimer: the links below are affiliate links, which means I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.  I only include books or equipment I actively use or strongly recommend for growing the plants in this catalogue.

Seed to Seed, Suzanne Ashworth  
This is the most widely used seed-saving reference book and one I still rely on regularly.  It gives clear, plant-by-plant instructions for saving seed from vegetables and herbs, helping you maintain reliable strains and preserve genetic diversity in a home garden. 
Best for: anyone saving seed from the vegetables, especially leafy greens, legumes, and herbs.

Perennial Vegetables: From Artichokes to Zuiki Taro, a Gardener's Guide to Over 100 Delicious and Easy to Grow Edibles, Eric Toensmeier  
A foundational reference for anyone interested in perennial vegetables.  It covers over 100 perennial vegetables, including many species featured in this catalogue, from common artichokes to lesser known edible perennials.
Best for: building a perennial food garden and exploring unusual edible species.

Lost crops of the Incas 
I love this book!  This one got me started in rare and underutilised vegetables.  It explores traditional Andean crops and highlights many species that are still rarely grown outside their native regions.
Best for: rare crop inspiration and expanding beyond standard vegetable varieties.  

Lost crops of Africa 
A detailed overview of African traditional food crops, their nutrition, and their potential for wider cultivation.  Many of these plants are highly resilient and well suited to harsh or variable climates.
Best for: climate resilient and underused food plants.

The Complete Book of Plant Propagation, H. L. Hartmann
A comprehensive guide to propagation techniques including seeds, cuttings, grafting, and layering.  This is a technical reference, but extremely valuable if you are propagating plants from this catalogue.
Best for: cuttings, grafting, and scaling up rare plants.


Saturday, 26 September 2026

Two Common Slater Species Living in My Garden: Armadillidium vulgare and Porcellio scaber

The Two Common Species of Isopods Living in My Garden Armadillidium vulgare and Porcellio scaber 

When people think about garden creatures, they usually think about insects, spiders, worms, birds, or perhaps lizards.  However, some of the most common animals living quietly among the leaf litter are not insects at all. 

Isopods are a large group of crustaceans that includes familiar garden animals such as slaters, woodlice, pill bugs, and roly-polies.  Although they live on land, they are more closely related to crabs and prawns than insects. 

To help with a little basic nomenclature: Isopod is the scientific group.  Slater, woodlouse, pill bug and roly-poly are common names used for various terrestrial isopods in different parts of the world.

I've always had plenty of slaters in my garden, but it wasn't until I started looking at them more closely that I realised I wasn't looking at just one kind.  Two species in particular are extremely common here: Armadillidium vulgare and Porcellio scaber. 

Both species play an important role in breaking down organic matter, turning dead leaves and plant material into nutrients that can return to the soil.

When I was a child, these animals were commonly called "wood lice".  Common names vary between regions.  Where I live in Australia at the moment, 'slater' is commonly used.  While 'isopod' is a correct scientific term, it refers to an entire order of crustaceans rather than just the familiar garden species. 

Finding isopods in my garden

My garden in the Canberra region has plenty of hiding places for isopods: under mulch, beneath pots, in compost, around old plant material, under rocks, and in areas where the soil remains moist.

At first glance, many slaters look very similar.  However, if you look closely, you start to notice that several different types can be living in the same garden. The two most common species here are Armadillidium vulgare and Porcellio scaber.  

I decided to keep small colonies of both species so I could observe them more closely and try to selectively breed for interesting colour variations. 

Interestingly, neither species is native to Australia.  They were introduced, presumably accidentally, and likely several times.  Now that they are established, they are widespread and unlikely to disappear.  We have a few native isopod species, but they are less commonly seen in my garden.  

Rough slaters Porcellio scaber are very common
Colony of rough slaters Porcellio scaber

Are slaters insects?

No.  Despite often being found alongside insects in gardens, slaters are not insects.  They are terrestrial crustaceans.  Their distant relatives include crabs, prawns and lobsters, although you wouldn't expect to find a slater scuttling around a rock pool.

This surprises many people because slaters are usually found in the same places as insects: underneath mulch, among fallen leaves, in compost, under pots, and around decaying plant material.  They are small, have lots of legs, and are often grouped together with the other tiny creatures we find in the garden.

However, slaters are much more closely related to animals such as crabs, prawns, and lobsters than they are to beetles, ants or flies.  They are crustaceans that have adapted to life on land, although they haven't escaped all the constraints of being aquatic animals.

Slaters breathe using modified appendages called pleopods.  These function rather like gills, which helps explain why they are so strongly associated with damp environments.  This is why they are usually found in cool, damp places where they can keep their bodies moist.  It is also why you often find large numbers of them under logs, rocks, pots, mulch, and compost.

Their need for moisture is also why they are such useful members of the garden ecosystem.  Rather than being pests that invade the garden, they can help to recycle organic material by feeding on dead leaves, rotting wood and other decaying plant matter.

So while they may look like tiny garden insects at first glance, slaters are actually small land-dwelling crustaceans quietly performing the same kind of recycling role that their marine relatives perform in aquatic environments. 

Difference between Armadillidium vulgare and Porcellio scaber

One of the easiest ways to tell these two species apart is by looking at their body shape, movement, and how they respond when disturbed.

FeatureArmadillidium vulgarePorcellio scaber
ShapeRoundedFlatter
Rolls into ballYesNo
MovementSlowerFaster
AppearanceSmooth, domedRougher texture

Armadillidium vulgare – common pill bug

Armadillidium vulgare is probably the garden isopod most people recognise.  When disturbed, it can curl itself into a tight ball, which is why overseas it is often called a pill bug or roly poly.  

The ones in my garden are mostly a dark gunmetal grey colour.  Many also have small yellow markings along the sides of their bodies.  Some are lighter, sort of honey coloured.

Common isopod: Armadillidium vulgare
Armadillidium vulgare some rolled up

The yellow markings seem to occur naturally in my population, and some have far more yellow than others.  At this stage I am treating them as normal colour variation rather than a separate colour form, but it is interesting to see how much variation occurs in this population.  I am keeping the ones with the most yellow for breeding, to see if I can select a highly coloured line of them. 

Unlike some other isopods, A vulgare is quite slow moving.  When I disturb leaf litter, they often respond by curling up rather than quickly running away.  I like the looks of these ones, they have a cute round shape.  I enjoy the interesting coloured dots that sometimes appear, and I also like the ones that are entirely grey, I'm not sure which I prefer.  

When I was a child I kept A vulgare in a little container with some earwigs.  They fascinated me.  I remember one year I looked under a rotting log and saw my first Porcellio scaber, and I was perplexed.  I didn't realise they were different, and thought it was just A vulgare that was somehow defective and could not roll into a ball.  Over the next year or so, P scaber went from an unknown entity, to being the dominant and most seen species in that area.  

Armadillidium vulgare slaters
Wild coloured Armadillidium vulgare

Porcellio scaber – rough slater

Porcellio scaber is another very common garden isopod.

Compared with Armadillidium vulgare, it has a flatter appearance and cannot roll completely into a ball.  Instead, it relies on speed and hiding when disturbed.

Porcellio scaber are flat little slaters
Various aged rough slaters

The Porcellio scaber in my garden are mostly grey, with some individuals showing mottled grey or brown patterns.  Some are almost white, while others are a mix of grey, brown, white, and orange, all on the same animal.  I've even once found an albino individual in my garden.

I also found one particularly unusual orange Porcellio scaber among the local population in my garden. I kept it and have started a small breeding experiment to see whether the colour is inherited. I'll be documenting that experiment separately, because I think this little orange slater deserves an article of its own. 

Grey, white, and orange rough slater Porcellio scaber
Grey and brown slaters and an orange slater Porcellio scaber

Are slaters good or bad for the garden?

Usually neither. They're part of the normal garden ecosystem, although large numbers can sometimes cause problems for vulnerable plants.

Like many garden creatures, the answer depends on the situation.  Most of the time, isopods are reasonably beneficial.  They feed heavily on decaying plant material and are part of the community of animals involved in breaking down organic matter.

Occasionally, large populations may nibble very soft seedlings, burrow into strawberries, or even damage healthy plant material. In a healthy garden they are generally part of the natural nutrient recycling system.  

Why I am keeping garden isopods

One of the things I enjoy about gardening is influencing the small ecosystems that develop over time.

Just as I experiment with unusual plants, perennial vegetables, and fermentation, keeping these isopods gives me another opportunity to observe a small piece of nature more closely.

Although keepers usually buy brightly coloured exotic isopods, I decided to begin with the two species already thriving in my own garden and see if I could breed my own fun coloured ones or albino lines.  They are hardy and well adapted to local conditions so I don't need to mess around with heating their enclosure.  I like the natural variation already present in wild populations, and I wonder how colourful they could become with a little selective pressure.

I hope to learn more about these small but important garden inhabitants, particularly the natural colour variation in my local populations and whether any of these unusual colours can be selectively bred.

For me, part of the fun of keeping these slaters is seeing what happens. I don't really know yet how successful the colour breeding experiments will be, but if I end up with healthy captive-bred colonies that are large enough to share, I may occasionally make some available.

I list things I have grown, propagated, or bred on my monthly For Sale page, so that's where any available isopod cultures will appear. 


Saturday, 19 September 2026

Flowers for Honey Bees: Which Flowers Do They Actually Prefer?

Just because something flowers, it does not necessarily mean it will attract large numbers of honey bees (Apis mellifera) to your garden.  Some flowers that are often recommended as "bee friendly" receive surprisingly little attention from the honey bees here, while other plants can be covered in bees whenever they flower in my garden. 

Honey bees don't necessarily visit flowers simply because a plant produces abundant flowers. Their choices can depend on nectar and pollen availability, flower structure, weather, competing forage, and what else is flowering in the surrounding landscape.

This isn't a scientific ranking of bee-friendly plants.  It is based largely on what I have observed in my garden and the surrounding area over many years.  The same plant may perform differently somewhere else, particularly where different flowers are available.

This post is specifically about European honey bees (Apis mellifera), rather than our native bees or other pollinators in general.  A plant (such as native river mint) that attracts plenty of native bees or other insects may still receive little attention from honey bees in my garden.

I'll show you some flowers that even though commonly called "bee friendly" the honey bees often seem to ignore them in my garden, although they will work them if there is little else flowering.  Then I'll show you some that are frequently covered in bees, as well as some surprises.

Flowers Honey Bees Often Ignore

Parsley 

I often see Apiaceae recommended as excellent plants for bees, but in my garden I rarely see honey bees working them unless there is little else flowering. 

Parsley produces huge numbers of flowers in a small amount of space, yet they receive little attention from bees.  It does attract plenty of other insects, including several species that I consider useful in the garden.  There are no bees in the pictures below, yet there are many flowers of different stages of maturity.

Parsley flowers - no bees

Parsley produces a lot of flowers

Carrot 

I rarely see honey bees working carrot flowers unless it is a very dry year with little else blooming.  I do see a lot of lady beetles and other beneficial insects on them.  You will see below that there are plenty of lady beetles on the carrot flowers, I don't know why but in my garden carrot flowers appear to attract lady beetles.  Again, there are no honey bees in the pictures below.

Carrot flowers, lady beetles, and other beetles

Lady beetles seem to enjoy carrot flowers

Coriander 

Much like other Apiaceae, coriander (called 'cilantro' in North America) produces huge numbers of flowers.  

Coriander produces lovely purple pollen that is sometimes collected by my bees.  Honey bees certainly do work coriander here, but they don't seem particularly interested in it compared with some of the other flowers available at the same time.  

The photo below did not have a single honey bee even though there are hundreds, if not thousands, of flowers open.  It does have many other species of beneficial insects.

Coriander flowers - no honey bees

Elderberry 

Elderberry (Sambucus nigra) produces huge numbers of flowers in a small area.  Many people assume it would be useful to honey bees. 

Strangely I rarely ever see a honey bee on any elderflowers.  I do see plenty of other beneficial insects working these flowers, and it produces ample berries in my garden, so it isn't a huge loss.

Elderberry flowers - no honey bees

Flowers Honey Bees Seem To Prefer

Mustard and various Brassicas 

Brassicas are some of the most reliable honey-bee flowers in my garden.  Many species produce numerous flowers in a small area, and if the weather is warm they almost always have bees working them in my garden.  

I often see honey bees drive other insects off these flowers.  Some are grown in the garden, some are roadside weeds, while others are agricultural crops.

Honey bees seem to prefer my Brassicas

Brassica flowers and honey bee

Clovers 

Honey bees appear to love clover.  Many species produce ample nectar, and a good patch of clover hums with all the bee activity.  

I like clover as it is a legume that sequesters nitrogen form the air and (after the clover has died and began to break down) increases available nitrogen in the soil.  Clover grows in my lawn, as a roadside weed, and can flower in fields.  Clover doesn't love the heat of summer here, and won't flower in my winter, but I like it.

Clover Flowers

Lemon Flowers

Honey bees love many fruit trees as they can collect a lot of pollen and nectar from a small area.  Honey bees seem to also love apple and stone fruit flowers, which only flower for a very short window each year.  Unlike those deciduous fruit trees, citrus can flower for most of the year in wet or mild years in my garden.  

The bees love lemon trees and as long as the weather is not too extreme, bees are never far from any open flowers.  I have a Meyer Lemon tree, which acts as a host for the orchard swallowtail butterfly caterpillars, which I think are a lovely butterfly.  Lemon tree flowers smell amazing, plus they turn into lemons, so I consider it worth my time to have a lemon tree.

Lemon tree flowers attract honey bees

Bottlebrush 

Honey bees love bottlebrush when it is in flower.  I have heard of people grow this for native birds and then have the bush inundated with so many bees that the birds did not forage on it.  

Some varieties of bottlebrush can grow to be large trees and when covered in flowers the humming from bees can be impressive.  Other varieties form short shrubs.  

Bottlebrush flowers attract honey bees

Bottlebrush produce a lot of flowers

Rosemary for Bees

Rosemary is a favourite of honey bees in my garden.  I grow several varieties of rosemary, and all of them become covered in honey bees when they flower.  Rosemary usually flowers for many months of the year in my garden, and often is covered in honey bees as well as other beneficial insects.

This is one of the plants where the difference between "bee-friendly" in theory and what I actually see in my garden is particularly obvious, the bees clearly do love it.  


Honey bees and rosemary flowers
Blue rosemary flowers and foraging honey bees

Even on cold days rosemary attracts honey bees
More rosemary and more honey bees

The Surprising Ones

Poppy 

Poppies are an interesting exception because the honey bees aren't there for nectar.  They are there for high protein pollen.

I have watched the bees frantically fight to collect the pollen while it lasts.  Each flower opens in the morning, has a short time of frantic bee activity as they collect the pollen, once the pollen is gone the bees leave.  The flowers usually die that afternoon.  

The number of bees working each poppy flower is incredible. Sometimes more than a dozen bees will crowd into a single flower, all working frantically to collect the pollen. 

Honey bees collecting pollen from poppy flower

Sweet Corn

Corn is primarily wind pollinated, so it does not need to attract insects to pollinate its flowers.  In most years I don't see any honey bees on my corn plants.

One year we had a severe drought, very few other flowers were open, and the honey bees started working my corn.  My honey bees collected a surprising amount of corn pollen from it that year.

I would not grow corn specifically for honey bees, but it was interesting to see that they can and do make use of corn as a food source when very little else is available.

Honey bee collecting corn pollen

Many bees collecting corn pollen

Lawn weeds and Roadside weeds 

These are often overlooked but are a valuable source of bee forage.  Some are better than others, some are ephemeral, and others flower for most of the year.  They all need rain and will not flower in a dry year here.

Dandelions always seem to be a favourite of honey bees in my yard, as does Persian speedwell.  Many of the lawn weeds are exotic, which makes them well suited to honey bees.

Dandelions and honey bees

Persian speedwell and honey bees

The Takeaway Lesson

The biggest lesson I've learned from watching honey bees in the garden is that a flower being described as "bee friendly" doesn't tell me very much.  Some plants are covered in honey bees, some attract mostly other insects, and some seem to be ignored unless there is nothing else available.

If I want to help feed my honey bees, I pay much more attention to what the bees are actually doing in my yard than to a list of supposedly bee-friendly plants. 

Further Reading

Knowing which flowers honey bees prefer is only part of the picture.  What is flowering nearby, and what else is available to the bees, and how far they may travel to find it can make a big difference.

What is in flower - a month by month guide to flowering plants that can provide forage for honey bees

Bee forage map - an interactive map showing how far honey bees may travel from the hive to forage. 

I grow and sell many plants, some attract honey bees and other beneficial insects, if interested they are listed on my plant catalogue.  I grow everything organically, and only sell plants and seeds that I have grown and have excess of.