Lucky Iron Fish Review After 3 Years (2026 Update): Does It Still Work?

I first wrote about the Lucky Iron Fish in January 2022 after several months of use, and followed up with an 18-month update in 2023.  Now that more than three years have passed, I thought it was time for another update.  Do I still use it? Has my opinion changed?  And would I still recommend it today?

One reason I still like the Lucky Iron Fish is that it fits my general preference for simple, low-tech solutions.  Much like growing perennial vegetables or saving seed, it's a one-time purchase that can potentially provide benefits for many years without ongoing expense.

This post contains affiliate links.  If you buy through these links, I may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.  

If you'd like to check the current price or read customer reviews, you can find the Lucky Iron Fish on Amazon.

If you're unfamiliar with the product, you may want to start with my original Lucky Iron Fish review, where I explain what it is and why I decided to try it. 

I also published an 18-month update covering my experience after the initial honeymoon period.

Lucky Iron Fish - 3 years of use and no rust

Quick Verdict

Ease of Use: 4.5/5
Durability: 5/5
Value for Money: 5/5
Effectiveness: 4/5

Overall Recommendation: 4.5/5

What Is the Lucky Iron Fish?

For anyone new to the concept, the Lucky Iron Fish is a small cast-iron cooking tool designed to increase the iron content of food and liquids. It is typically simmered in water or soups with a small amount of acid, such as lemon juice, to help release iron during cooking.

For a more detailed explanation of how it works, see my original review.

Lucky Iron Fish after 3 years of use - other side

My Experience After More Than Three Years

One thing that has surprised me is how easily the Lucky Iron Fish became part of my routine.  What initially felt like an extra step in cleaning up after dinner gradually became a habit.

Over the past three years I've probably used the Lucky Iron Fish several hundred times, mostly when making soups, vegetable stocks, and slow-cooked stews.   Aside from some minor surface discoloration, and a few scratches, it looks much the same as when I bought it.

Even after years of use, my Lucky Iron Fish has no rust.  I use it, dry it, and put it away.  It's really very simple.

Since I started using the Lucky Iron Fish, I haven't felt the need to stop using it or switch to iron supplements.  While I can't prove exactly how much it contributes compared with diet and other factors, I still consider it worthwhile enough to keep using regularly after three years.

Lucky Iron Fish just removed from water

What's Changed Since My 18-Month Update?

• I still use it regularly.
• It hasn't developed any rust.
• It has held up physically with no signs of wearing out.
• Using it has become automatic rather than something I need to remember.
• My opinion of the product remains largely unchanged.

Lucky Iron Fish boiling in water

Has It Improved My Iron Intake?

This is probably the question people ask most often.

While I cannot say with certainty that every change in my health is due to the Lucky Iron Fish alone, I believe it has been a useful addition to my overall approach to maintaining healthy iron levels.  Diet, general health and other lifestyle factors all play a role, so it is difficult to isolate any single factor.

My experience has been positive enough that I have continued using it long after the novelty wore off.

Things I Like About the Lucky Iron Fish

• Simple to use
• No ongoing costs
• No batteries or electronics
• Durable and long-lasting
• Easy to store
• Cost-effective over many years

If these advantages sound appealing, you can view the latest price and customer reviews for the Lucky Iron Fish here.

Lucky Iron fish and an organic lemon from my tree

Drawbacks After Three Years

No product is perfect.

The biggest drawback is remembering to use it consistently.  Like many healthy habits, the benefits depend on regular use.

It also works best in recipes where it can simmer for a while, which means it is not suitable for every meal.  Some people may find the extra step inconvenient.

One challenge is that it's difficult to know exactly how much benefit you're getting.  Unlike taking a supplement with a measured dosage, the amount of iron released depends on how it's used and what you're cooking.  People looking for precise supplementation may prefer a different approach.  

Is the Lucky Iron Fish Still Worth Buying in 2026?

For me, yes.

After more than three years of ownership, it has proven durable, inexpensive over the long term and easy to incorporate into everyday cooking.  I still use it regularly, which is probably the strongest endorsement I can give.

If you're interested in trying it yourself, you can check current price of the Lucky Iron Fish on Amazon.

Lucky Iron Fish - dry with tea towel after use while hot

Frequently Asked Questions

Does the Lucky Iron Fish really work?

The Lucky Iron Fish is designed to release small amounts of iron into food during cooking.  Individual results will vary depending on diet, health and consistency of use.

How long does the Lucky Iron Fish last?

Based on my experience, at least three years and likely much longer.  Mine has been used hundreds of times and still functions exactly as it did when new.

Can the Lucky Iron Fish rust?

It can develop surface rust if not cared for properly.  I just wipe it dry with a tea towel while it is still hot, and mine has no rust after more than three years of use. 

Is the Lucky Iron Fish worth the money?

For people looking for a long-term, reusable option, I think it offers excellent value.  For people looking for a reusable long-term option, I think the Lucky Iron Fish offers excellent value for money.

Lucky Iron Fish, slotted spoon, lemon, saucepan

Related Products I Use

• Lucky Iron Fish or Lucky Iron Leaf
• Slotted spoon - I could not use the Lucky Iron Fish without this 
• tea towel - for drying the Lucky Iron Fish after use
• Lemon juicer 

Final Thoughts After Three Years

Three years later, my opinion remains positive.  The Lucky Iron Fish has become one of those simple kitchen tools that quietly does its job without much attention.

Perhaps the strongest endorsement I can give is that after more than three years, I still use the Lucky Iron Fish regularly rather than leaving it forgotten in the back of a kitchen drawer.  If I lost it tomorrow, I would buy another one.

If you'd like to see how my experience evolved over time, you can also read my original review from 2022 and my 18-month update from 2023.

African Violet Wicking Pots vs Regular Pots: 7-Month Side-by-Side Comparison

I've been growing African violets for over five years and using self-watering wick pots for the past two.  To see whether wick pots genuinely improve growth, I grew genetically identical African violet plants using two different watering methods for around 7 months and compared their growth, leaf size, flowering, and overall performance. 

This post contains affiliate links.  I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you. 

I’ve been testing growing African violets in regular pots, against these small self-watering pots, and the growth difference has been surprising.   

Self-watering wick pot experiment showing increased leaf size and more vigorous growth

Do Wicking Pots Improve African Violet Growth?

Yes.

In my comparison using genetically identical African violet plants grown under the same conditions, the plants in self-watering wick pots produced:

• larger leaves
• thicker petioles
• earlier flowering
• more blooms
• less watering maintenance

The regular-pot plants still grew healthy, but they were smaller, produced fewer flowers, and grew more slowly.

Comparison of African Violets Grown in Wicking Pots vs Regular Pots

The wick pots cost more than standard nursery pots.  However, after using both methods for years, I find the reduced maintenance and improved growth easily justify the extra cost.  I lose fewer plants to drying out, spend less time watering, and achieve more reliable flowering.

This table summarises the key differences observed in the experiment, comparing growth rate, flowering, watering needs, and overall plant performance under identical growing conditions.

Feature	Wicking / Self-Watering Pots	Regular Pots
Watering frequency	Low - reservoir keeps soil consistently moist	High - needs regular manual watering
Growth rate	Faster, more vigorous growth	Slower, steady growth
Leaf size	Larger leaves with thicker petioles	Smaller, more compact leaves
Flowering	Earlier and often more abundant blooms	Later flowering, fewer blooms initially
Maintenance	Low maintenance, ideal for busy or away from home periods	Higher maintenance, risk of drying out in hot weather
Risk of over/under watering	Lower risk when using airy mix (e.g. perlite blend)	Higher risk, especially if inconsistent watering
Overall performance (this experiment)	Best performance: stronger, faster-growing plants	Good performance: healthy but slower growth

Are There Any Downsides to Wick Pots?

While wick pots performed better in my comparison, they are not perfect.

The main disadvantage is the higher upfront cost compared to standard plastic nursery pots. They also work best with a very free-draining potting mix.  I use roughly 50% perlite and 50% potting mix, which helps prevent the soil from staying too wet.

Wick pots can also encourage faster growth, which means plants may need repotting sooner than those grown in regular pots.

For me, the reduced watering and improved flowering easily outweigh these minor drawbacks, but regular pots are still a perfectly viable option for growing healthy African violets.

Recommended Self-Watering Wick Pots for African Violets

Based on this experiment, self-watering wick pots were the clear winner for faster growth, larger leaves, and more consistent flowering.

If you want to try the same setup, I recommend using small wick pots (around 7–10cm wide) with a built-in water reservoir.  These are ideal for African violets and help maintain steady moisture without constant watering.

• Consistent moisture for healthier root development
• Reduce watering frequency
• Less risk of drying out in hot weather
• Encourage faster growth
• Better flowering performance in this trial

See the exact wick pots I use

Watering frequency

Low - reservoir keeps soil consistently moist

High - needs regular manual watering

Growth rate

Faster, more vigorous growth

Slower, steady growth

Leaf size

Larger leaves with thicker petioles

Smaller, more compact leaves

Flowering

Earlier and often more abundant blooms

Later flowering, fewer blooms initially

Maintenance

Low maintenance, ideal for busy or away from home periods

Higher maintenance, risk of drying out in hot weather

Risk of over/under watering

Lower risk when using airy mix (e.g. perlite blend)

Higher risk, especially if inconsistent watering

Overall performance (this experiment)

Best performance: stronger, faster-growing plants

Good performance: healthy but slower growth

More African violets for comparison

I got my first African violet around May 2021, which is over 5 years ago now.  I have grown many African violets from leaf cuttings.  Some I grew in wicking pots like these ones, others I grew using regular watering.  I have a few plants in each type of pot, the photos you see below are all plants I grew.  I still have some of these plants, others I have since sold.

The wicking pots come in different colours, I have some white and some grey and I like them both.  The regular pots I use are about 10cm across, I tend to buy them in bulk like this as I find them perfect for many different plants that I grow.

Regular pot (left) showing slower growth vs self-watering wick pot (right) with larger leaves

The same plants as above - from a different angle

The potting mix I use for African violets

I tend to do things cheap, and I only want to do things that work long term.  You certainly could use specialised African violet potting mix, but it often seems expensive.  Instead I make my own blend of potting mix and perlite, it is inexpensive and clearly effective, as shown by the length of time my African violets have been thriving.  

I buy a cheap potting mix and mix it with perlite.  I mix them together in a 50:50 mix, but sometimes include more perlite than soil.  

It's very easy to make my own mix like this.  I get a pot full of perlite and tip it into an ice cream container, another pot full of potting soil, mix them by hand, and I have two pots worth of African violet mix ready to use.  This works over the long term, I have many African violets growing in this mix and have never had issues with rot or damping off.

My Simple African Violet Soil Mix (Budget-Friendly)

I don’t use expensive specialty African violet mixes.  Instead, I’ve had long-term success using a simple blend of standard potting mix and perlite.

•   50% standard potting mix
•   50% perlite (sometimes slightly more perlite) 

This creates a light, well-draining mix that works especially well with wick pots.

Supplies I use:

• standard potting mix 
• perlite 

My African violet wick growing vs regular pot experiment

I took a leaf cutting of an established African violet.  Once it had some leaf babies, I let them grow until large enough to handle easily, then I divided them.  

Interestingly, I find I can replant the mother leaf several times and get extra baby plants.  This is particularly useful when dealing with rarer varieties or varieties with sentimental value.

African violet leaf babies before division, all grown from the same parent leaf for a controlled comparison

By using leaf babies from the same mother leaf I was using genetically identical plants.  When I divided them they were the same age, and were much the same size.  This helps any differences I noticed to be based on growing conditions rather than genetics or age.

I used exactly the same potting mix, that I mixed on the same day, and transplanted them all the same day.  Some were planted into regular pots, some were planted into wicking self-watering pots, that was the only difference.  I don't have any photos of transplanting these because my hands get all wet and grubby while dividing African violets.

I grew the plants side by side in the same tray (I grow them in a tray so I can move them easily) for around 7 months.  All plants in this experiment were grown side by side under identical light conditions, mostly they were in the tray near a window, some days I moved the tray outside into bright shade.  The difference in vigour and size was noticeable from early on.  

African violets grown in regular pots

The African violets grown in regular pots grew well.  They are all healthy, and grew large.  I have grown plenty of African violets like this, it works well for me.

I tend to buy these pots in bulk as they look good and are perfect for growing many plants including herbs and succulents and ferns.

Growing like this means I have to water often.  If I go away, I tend to put them in a tray with a tiny bit of water, and hope they don't rot and don't dry out while I am away.

Overall this is not a bad way to grow them, and I have some plants that have been in regular pots for years and are still doing well.  

Over the years I have lost a few small plants in regular pots due to drying out.  This mostly happens if I have been unwell and the weather has been hot.  

African violet in regular pot showing healthy growth but smaller overall plant size compared to wick pot plants

Struggling with Drying Out or Inconsistent Watering?

One of the main issues I found with regular pots was inconsistent moisture levels, especially during hot weather or when I was away. 

Switching to self-watering wick pots helped remove that variability and made plant care much more predictable. 

Another African violet - looking good

African violets grown in wicking self-watering pots

The African violets grown in the wick watering pots also grew well.  I have grown many African violets this way, and am always happy with the results. 

Watering these is simple, when the little well is low I top it up.  This provides continuous moisture, even if I go away for a while or am too unwell to water plants.  

As the wick draws up moisture, but not too much moisture, there are no problems with rotting if I use 50% perlite in the soil mix.  Sometimes roots grow out of the drainage hole in the pot and reach down into the water.  This is fine, it doesn't seem to bother the plant.

African violet in self-watering wicking pot

Another African Violet grown in a wicking pot

Comparison between African violets grown in wicking self-watering pots or regular pots

As you can see above, African violets can and do grow well in wicking pots or regular pots.  Wicking pots are certainly simpler, but I was curious to see if there was any difference in growth rate.

The African violets grown in wicking pots grew better for me.  The leaf blade is larger, the petiole (leaf stalk) is longer and thicker, and there appear to be more leaves on the plants grown in wicking pots.  All of this indicates stronger and healthier plants.

Importantly, the African violets grown in wicking pots flowered earlier, and produced more flowers, than the ones in regular pots.  You can't really see this in any of the photos, but all the plants in wicking pots have flower buds, while all the plants in regular pots don't.  I am guessing I won't see flowers on the regular pot grown African violets until spring.  

I now use self-watering wick pots for most of my African violets because they reduced drying issues and improved growth in my comparison.

Side-by-side African violet comparison: self-watering wick pot (left) vs regular pot (right)

Additional comparison plants showing consistent differences in vigour between watering methods

Conclusion: Do Wicking Pots Improve African Violet Growth?

Based on my comparison, African violets grown in self-watering wick pots:

• grew larger leaves
• developed thicker petioles
• flowered earlier
• produced more blooms
• Were easier to care for

The plants grown in regular pots still performed well, but required more frequent watering and were more vulnerable during hot or dry periods.  I suspect the improved growth comes from the plants receiving a more consistent supply of moisture, rather than going between wetter and drier conditions as happens with conventional watering.  

Overall, I prefer wick pots for most of my African violets due to their consistency and reduced maintenance.

African violet leaf comparison, regular on left, wick pot on right

Underside of African violet leaves - slightly more colour in wicking pot

African violet grown in wicking pots produced larger leaves for me

Wicking pots long term African violet growth

So now you have seen how African violets performed better in wicking pots under my growing conditions, the sensible thing to consider is will this continue to work long term.  I don't care how fast and large they grow if they rot and die, I want long term successful growth, and I want many many vibrant flowers.  

I am happy to say that I have been growing African violets in these wicking pots for about 2 years.  The plants are healthy and strong, and they keep pumping out the blooms.  While the photos below are of a different variety than the one used in the comparison, these two have been flowering well in wicking pots for quite a long time.

Long-term African violet growth in self-watering wick pot showing sustained flowering and healthy leaves

Quick Summary

• Same African violet variety (grown from leaf cuttings from my existing plant)
• Same soil mix (50/50 cheap potting mix + perlite)
• Same light, temperature, water
• Only difference: pot type
• Wick pots = faster growth + more robust plants + more flowers
• Regular pots = still healthy but slower and higher maintenance

African violet in self-watering wick pot produce abundant blooms, sometimes with more flowers than visible leaves

Where to buy Wicking Pots for African Violets

I keep several wicking pots on hand because I find them useful for many different plant species, not just African violets.  I am even growing out some staghorn fern pups in them where they are performing beautifully.  

I can find wicking pots locally, but they tend to be over priced and rarely the size I am looking for.  For this reason I tend to buy them online such as through Amazon.  For African violets I generally go for something about 7cm across. 

Start Growing African Violets the Easy Way

If you’re setting up from scratch, the combination that worked best in this experiment was:

• Small self-watering wick pots
• Light potting mix with added perlite
• Bright indirect light near a window

This setup reduces maintenance and helps maintain consistent growth conditions year-round.

Recommended starter supplies:

• African violet wick pot
• standard potting mix 
• perlite 

Wicking pots produced larger African violet leaves

Frequently Asked Questions

Do African violets like self-watering pots?

Yes.  In my experience they grow larger leaves, flower earlier, and require less maintenance.

Can African violets stay wet all the time?

Not exactly.  The key is using a very airy mix with plenty of perlite.

What size wick pot is best for African violets?

I prefer pots around 7–10 cm wide for mature plants.

Do wick pots cause root rot?

Not in my experience when using a 50% perlite mix. 

How often do you refill a wick pot?

I water whenever the reservoir starts to get low, usually every few weeks.

Who should consider wick pots?

• People who forget to water plants
• People who water plants too much or too often
• Anyone growing multiple African violets
• People who travel frequently or go on holiday
• Growers wanting maximum flowering

You probably don't need them if you only have one violet and enjoy regular watering. 

African Violet Leaves and Plants for Sale

African violets performing well in wicking pots (please ignore the mess birds left on the railing)

I sometimes have African violet leaf cuttings available from my own plants, including the exact plants used in this experiment.  These can be used to grow new plants at home, and are taken from my healthy, well-established African violets.

If you would like to try growing your own African violets, I list available leaves and plants through my for sale catalogue page.  I am happy to provide detailed notes on how I grow them.  

Keep an eye on that page as availability is highly seasonal and varies significantly depending on what I am currently propagating. 

Growing staghorn Ferns From Spores: 6 month Update - Which Growing Method Worked Best

I experimented growing staghorn ferns (Platycerium superbum) from spores.  While they had good germination rates and they initially grew well, many refused to grow further until I divided and transplanted them.  I carried out this division around November/December 2025 when they were already about 12 months old.

Around that time, I separated and repotted my staghorn sporelings and wrote a previous post on the process of growing staghorn ferns from spores.  

Staghorn ferns grown from spores 

Growing staghorn ferns from spores can be a slow process, but it can be very rewarding once the plants reach the sporophyte stage.  I also wrote another update about their 3 month progress after division.  

It is now early June 2026, around six months since that division (meaning my spore grown staghorn ferns are now around 18 months old), and it is time to write another update on how these baby ferns are progressing.

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Staghorn ferns grown in seedling flat

These ferns did not perform well in the seedling flat.  Most eventually died, and the few that survived showed very little growth.  The humidity dome was helpful, not only to increase humidity,  but also protecting the tiny ferns from birds and temperature fluctuations.

The main challenge was moisture control, at times they were too wet, and at other times they dried out too much. 

From my experience, this setup is not ideal for beginners growing staghorn ferns from spores.  I won't be attempting to grow staghorn ferns like this again.

Small staghorn fern sporelings grown in a seedling tray after 18 months

Poor survival of staghorn fern spores in seedling flat setup

Humidity dome was helpful for growing sporelings

Staghorn fern sporelings in 24 cell tray

These spore grown staghorn ferns performed well.  Some died for reasons currently unknown.  Some survived but (again for reasons unknown) did not really grow much.  Others have grown large and strong.  I have high hopes these will survive my winter.

For beginners (such as myself), this method has been the most reliable so far.  I keep the trays under a humidity dome, like above.  This setup makes it simple to keep the humidity high, to keep the moisture at the right level, and basically keep everything going with little effort from me.

As the ferns mature, I will be able to open the vents to acclimatise them to lower humidity before eventually mounting them.

Over winter, even though they are under cover on my deck, it still can drop below freezing.  The humidity dome should provide some extra protection from the cold.  The dome should also help them get a little warmer on sunny days.  

This 24-cell propagation tray made moisture control much easier than my earlier setup (similar to this one). 

My staghorn ferns grown from spores

Some didn't survive, I don't know why

Some staghorn ferns survived and grew vigorously

Vigorous Platycerium superbum grown from spores in a 24-cell tray

Some spore grown staghorn ferns were larger

Other spore grown staghorn ferns were smaller

This setup worked well for growing staghorn ferns from spores 

Humidity dome helps staghorn fern sporelings 

Something unexpected happened in the 24 cell trays.  Spores that had not germinated over the past year have now started to sprout.

As shown in the photos, there are clusters of tiny prothallus emerging in several cells.  With any luck, these should grow and turn into tiny staghorn ferns.  Once they are larger, if they survive winter, I will be able to divide these and hopefully grow a few more staghorn ferns.

Given my success using the 24 cell trays in a humidity dome, this is the system I plan to use when dividing these extra spore grown staghorn ferns.

Staghorn ferns gametophytes and sporophytes

Some baby staghorn ferns are strong and vigorous

Growing staghorn ferns in wicking self watering pot

The staghorn ferns in the wicking pots all survived and have shown steady growth.  While they are not as large as those in the 24 cell trays, they have been much more consistent.

I keep these on a kitchen windowsill, where they receive stable light, more stable temperatures, and are easy to monitor.

For beginners, this has been one of the most reliable setups.  Watering is simple, humidity is easy to manage, and every plant I placed in these pots has survived so far.

I tend to use small wicking pots such as these.  They come with the pot, the base, and a wick.  I then used sticky tape and a clear container on top for humidity.  While the larger size pots would also work, I prefer the smaller size as they are great for several spore grown staghorn ferns, and I can also grow African violets and other plants in them. 

Every staghorn fern survived in a wicking pot

Wick watering pots make staghorn ferns from spore easy

Staghorn ferns in self watering pot

Staghorn fern sporelings prefer high humidity

If my staghorn ferns survive winter, I will think about trying to mount them in spring. 

Hopefully I will have some additional spore grown staghorns survive winter that I can divide and grow out. 

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to grow a staghorn fern from spores?

In my very limited experience, it took approximately 18 months to produce plants of this size from spores.  This timeframe could have been a little faster had I divided them earlier.

Do staghorn fern spores need high humidity?

Yes.  While mature staghorn ferns need far less humidity, spore grown ferns appear to have different requirements.  All of my successful methods relied on maintaining consistently high humidity.

What is the best container for growing staghorn fern spores?

The 24-cell propagation tray produced the largest plants, while self-watering wicking pots produced the highest survival rate.

Can old staghorn fern spores still germinate?

Apparently yes.  Some spores in my trays germinated more than a year after they were originally sown.

What I would do differently in my experiment growing staghorn ferns from spores

If I were starting again, I would use the 24-cell tray setup from the beginning.  While not every plant survived, many did, and they resulted in the largest and most vigorous staghorn ferns.  These 24 cell trays didn't take much space, and were able to fit a lot of plants. 

As a back up, I would also use some small self watering pots, as they were so simple to use, and resulted in no losses.  These look nice on the windowsill, but can only fit a small number of plants.

For beginners like myself who are attempting to grow staghorn ferns from spores outside their preferred climate,  I think a combination of the 24 cell tray setup and some small wicking pots gives the highest chances of success. 

After roughly 18 months growing Staghorn ferns (Platycerium superbum) from spores, I found that high humidity is a key factor.  The 24-cell propagation trays produced the fastest growth, while self-watering wicking pots produced the highest survival rates.  If I were starting again, I would use both methods and avoid the seedling flat approach entirely.

I plan to post another update in spring, to show what worked and what didn't over winter.  I'm learning a lot from my little experiment growing staghorn ferns from spores, and hope my posts help someone else attempting this. 

A Lifelong Fascination with Scorpions

One evening when I was a child, I had an unexpected encounter with a black rock scorpion began a fascination that has lasted for decades and eventually led to university research, keeping scorpions of my own, and a lifelong appreciation for these remarkable arachnids

The black rock scorpion (Urodacus manicatus) is the first scorpion I ever saw in real life, I was fascinated by it then and am still fascinated by scorpions now.  They are a small and relatively calm scorpion that is native to the east coast of Australia.  

Back then I had seen plenty of scorpions in encyclopedias and other books, and on documentaries, but nothing really prepared me for what it was like in real life.  These small creatures are amazing to watch, I still find it hard to stop watching them.

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Scorpions glow under UV light

The first scorpion I saw in real life 

I was watching TV one evening as a child and a scorpion ran across the living room floor.  I caught it and put it in a plastic ‘bug catcher’.  From there I kept it for a while, having no concept of how to look after it properly, marvelling at this amazing creature while it ate flies and other insects that I fed to it.  I eventually released this scorpion into the garden, which is a good thing because I can’t imagine it would have survived terribly long in a bug catcher. 

Now when I keep scorpions, even for a few days, I don't use 'bug catchers'.  I now use a small plastic aquarium because it is easy to clean, provides good ventilation, and makes observing the scorpion much easier.  These have a secure lid with ample ventilation.  

I also really like the look of the tiny aquariums that look like a lego block, they should work as they also have a secure lid.  I'll tell you why the lid is super important later in this post.  (Spoiler alert: I had a scorpion escape!)

Back then I was never confident to pick up the scorpion, and I am glad I didn’t because I could have hurt it.  

I was fascinated that they were arachnids, yet I counted ten legs.  It wasn’t until years later that I discovered that the pinchers at the front are not legs, but are pedipalps (pedipalps are almost like enlarged mouth parts).  If you don’t count the pinchers then the number of legs is eight, which makes me more comfortable as it fits in with my understanding of arachnids. 

Urodacus manicatus glows under UV light

My Scorpion Research at University

When I was a university student I got to see more of these delightful arachnids.  As part of "Behavioural and Physiological Ecology" I did an experiment involving scorpions.  A friend took me out to a hill where the scorpions lived, and we collected a few.  

For the experiment we got a light on a timer, put some scorpions in a tank with a thermogradient, attached a thermocouple to the back of each scorpion, and logged how changing light patterns altered their circadian rhythm.  

I forget how long that experiment ran, it was at least a few weeks, if not a few months.  I handled those scorpions every day and grew really attached to them.  At the end of the experiment we released them back on the hill where we collected them.  I was surprisingly sad to see them go. 

Black rock scorpion exploring the aquarium

Baby scorpions as pets

During that time I also kept two baby scorpions that I had also collected from the same spot.  These had nothing to do with the experiment, I thought they were cute and I kept them at home in a small container.  

They were both the same age, and much the same size, one was very shy and the other far more outgoing and interactive.  I used to catch small insects to feed them.  I tried to always keep some tiny insect in there for them to eat, but they couldn’t always find it.  I knew if they were hungry because they would walk around with their tail twitching slightly, so I would catch the insect with tweezers and hold it until a scorpion grabbed it.  I use long feeding tweezers for handling insects safely, I find feeding tweezers to be ideal for feeding scorpions.

One night I left the lid off the container the baby scorpions lived in, and the outgoing one escaped and was never seen by me again.  I missed it, but I still had one.  The one that didn’t escape eventually moulted, which was utterly fascinating.  They get very hungry for a while before moulting, and then stop eating completely.  To shed they squeeze their entire body out of a tiny hole near the mouth.  They have tiny wrists and big pinchers, so to squeeze out of here they are very soft.  

After moulting they need time to harden so must be left alone.  After a few days their exoskeleton hardens and they are ready to eat again. 

I had a bottle cap of water in the container and one day my tiny scorpion fell in and I had to rescue it.  I didn’t know how to pick it up without being stung, I panicked and put my finger in and it grabbed hold of me.  I then carefully lifted it out and let it walk off my finger back into the container.  It didn't sting me.  

After that I kept a damp cotton wool ball in there for water because I was scared it would fall in again when I wasn’t there to save it.  I can’t remember exactly what eventually happened to this little one, it was a lot of years ago, I have a feeling that I released it where I got it from before moving house.  

One really cool thing about all scorpions is that they fluoresce brightly under ultraviolet light.  The exact mechanism behind fluorescing in ultraviolet light is still under debate.  Their exoskeleton contains hyaline, which makes the exoskeleton strong, and is thought to be the part that glows under UV light.  The babies and ones that recently shed their skin don’t really glow, but once the skin hardens they all glow.  Even more remarkably, some fossilised scorpions even fluoresce under ultraviolet light.

I still keep its first exoskeleton safely in a little jar in my drawer.  Even though it has been over twenty years, the exoskeleton still fluoresces under ultraviolet light. 

Why do scorpions glow under UV light? 

Scientists are still debating the exact purpose and mechanism behind this, but compounds in the exoskeleton fluoresce brightly when exposed to ultraviolet light.  This makes scorpions easy to find at night using a cheap UV torch.

I like to use a small UV torch to make scorpions glow, these ultraviolet torches are ideal.  Going out on a warm night with an ultraviolet torch is one of the easiest ways to find scorpions.

While I rarely put the UV torch on my scorpions, some people have a UV torch to use when displaying them.  Prolonged exposure to ultraviolet light reduces fluorescence over time, although the exact reasons behind this are not fully understood.  They will not glow as bright over time if you keep the light on them too much, but every once in a while does not appear to have any adverse effects.  

Scorpions aren't the only natural thing that glows under UV light.  I wrote an earlier post on glowing lichen, while my pictures don't do it justice, some of these lichens glowed bright orange.  I also wrote another post on using these same ultraviolet torches to make various things such as honey, spider webs, and corn stalks glow.  

Baby scorpion exoskeleton under normal light

The same baby scorpion exoskeleton under UV light

Black Rock Scorpion Conservation and Breeding

My fascination with these creatures eventually led me to consider keeping and even breeding them.  I have read that it takes about two or three years for a baby black rock scorpion to reach maturity, which is a long time.  From there it can be difficult getting them to mate and not harm each other.  

Scorpions give birth to live young, after mating the gestation period is about sixteen months, which is a very long time for such a tiny animal.  Sometimes the mother will eat the babies, other times she won’t, sometimes the babies will eat each other, and other times they don’t.  

All of this means it takes several years from a baby scorpion birth until it has a baby scorpion of its own.  This also means most scorpions for sale have been taken from the wild as breeding them sustainably takes a long time and a lot of effort. 

I am told that the black rock scorpion can live up to a dozen years, with eight to ten being pretty common in the wild.  Given how long they live, and how long they take to reach maturity, and how long their gestation is, and that collectors sometimes take every single mature specimen they can find in an area, these scorpions really do need to be raised sustainably rather than taken from the wild. 

I still find black rock scorpions fascinating

A Lifelong Fascination

It has been decades since that first black rock scorpion crossed the living room floor, yet I still stop to watch them whenever I get the chance.  What began as childhood curiosity grew into scientific study and a deep respect for these remarkable arachnids.  Every time I see one scurrying after some prey insect, or glowing under ultraviolet light, I am reminded of the fascination that started all those years ago.

Despite their fearsome reputation, black rock scorpions are calm, fascinating creatures that have taught me a great deal about observing and appreciating the natural world.  Even today, I still keep that tiny exoskeleton in a jar, a small reminder of an animal that sparked a fascination which never really faded.

At some stage I may sell scorpion kits, and possibly captive bred individuals.  If I do, they will appear on my for sale page.  Live animals would likely be offered for local pickup only rather than postage.