Growing Elkhorn Ferns in a Cold Climate: 8 Month Survival Update

Almost a Year Later

Elkhorn ferns (Platycerium bifurcatum) are often recommended for warmer climates where they generally thrive.  I wanted to see if they could adapt to my colder garden conditions.  Around eight months ago I mounted several young elkhorn ferns around my garden to see whether they could survive and grow in my cold climate.  Some arrived in excellent condition, while others were already struggling.

I was not expecting to receive these elkhorn ferns, so was rather unprepared when they arrived.  I used string to mount them on scraps of timber, and used compressed cocopeat as the backing.  

If I were mounting these again, I'd use sphagnum moss and attactive staghorn mounting boards (they come in heaps of different styles, so I would pick my favourite looking ones).  I've linked the products I recommend near the end of this article for both Australian and US readers.

I am not an expert when it comes to elkhorn ferns and staghorn ferns, but I am loving growing them.  I wrote a previous post Growing Elkhorn Ferns in cold climate when my ferns were newly mounted.  I have grown Elkhorns when I lived in the subtropics, and also experimented with growing other Platycerium ferns from spores.   

After around seven or eight months, the results with my elkhorn ferns have been mixed.  A few have grown well, some have barely changed, and one didn't survive at all.  I am in a cold climate which is not ideal for growing these ferns, and it is currently mid winter so they are suffering a little from the cold, but that is life in my garden.

I thought it would be useful to show how each fern has performed so far, what I think helped the successful ones, and what I would do differently if I were starting again.

Quick Overview

Fern	Starting Condition	8 Month Result	My Thoughts
Fern #1	Two plants mounted together	One survived and grew	Successful despite pest damage
Fern #2	Poorly attached mount	Growing well	Surprisingly resilient
Fern #3	Already struggling	Died	Too damaged to recover
Larger fern	Temporary mount	Producing new fronds	Needs proper mounting

Elkhorn Fern #1: Survived Caterpillar Damage

The first elkhorn is surviving and somewhat growing.  This was two plants together, the one on the left died and the one on the right is growing well.  

Not long after I mounted this I noticed frass, and a caterpillar was in the plant on the left.  It ate the growing point and killed that plant.  Normally I would submerge a plant like this to drown caterpillars, but as I mounted on a plank of wood this was not an option.  I used fly spray, which did the job.  

Below you can see comparison photos.

This Elkhorn Fern Survived

This is what it looked like originally

Elkhorn Fern #2: The Surprisingly Successful One

I didn't attach the second elkhorn fern very securely, yet it has turned out to be one of the strongest growers.  The shield fronds have browned off somewhat, which is normal for elkhorns in my climate at this time of year.  It has grown several new foliar fronds that look healthy, and you probably can't see in the photo it is beginning to grow a new shield frond.

This fern has convinced me that elkhorn ferns are more forgiving than their reputation suggests, provided the growing point remains healthy.

Below you will see comparison photos from when I mounted it until now.

This Elkhorn Fern Grew Well

This is what it looked like originally

One Elkhorn Fern Died

Not Every Elkhorn Fern Survived.

This was looking poorly when I mounted it.  One day we had a storm with big winds, and this little fern was snatched away.  I searched for it, but it took me a few days before I found it.  When I found it, the fern looked dry and dead.  I mounted it again just in case, but it was dead and slowly degraded until it completely fell apart.

Below is the photo when I mounted it.  

This one was struggling when I received it

An Elkhorn Fern That Is Still Hanging On

The lowest fern I am not sure about.  When I first mounted it I was confused by its shape and looking back, I think I accidentally mounted it sideways.  This isn't great for them.  

This one elkhorn is still alive, and has grown new fronds.  I am not sure if it will survive, but I have hopes if it gets through winter it might pick up and grow well in spring.  

This fern isn't looking great, but could pick up

This is what it looked like when I mounted it

My Largest Elkhorn Fern Is Growing

I also have one large elkhorn fern.  I temporarily mounted it on a piece of timber using string, and put it in my unheated greenhouse out of the wind.  This one dropped some if its fronds.  Since then it started growing new shield fronds, and new foliar fronds.

This needs to be mounted properly, the string I used is too flimsy and is only doing the job temporarily because it is out of the wind.  

I put this in my greenhouse, and largely forgot about it.  I water it from time to time when it gets dry, and have every intention of mounting it properly.  Given it is winter, I don't want it to put on a lot of new growth until the weather warms.  In spring I plan to mount it better, and may keep it in the greenhouse as it seems to be doing well here.

My largest elkhorn fern is surviving

Elkhorn growing new shield fronds

Large elkhorn fern when I first got it

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between elkhorn and staghorn ferns?

Elkhorn and staghorn ferns are closely related, but they are different species and the common names can sometimes be confusing and often differs between countries and regions.  In Australia, elkhorn ferns (Platycerium bifurcatum) are usually smaller plants that spread by producing pups, eventually forming large clumps.

Staghorn ferns (Platycerium superbum) grow much larger, usually as a single impressive plant, and they are not known for producing pups as readily as elkhorn ferns.

Can elkhorn ferns survive cold climates?

Yes, provided they do not experience many heavy frosts.  Mine have survived down to -5C so far under cover, and I expect temperatures to drop to -10C before winter is over. 

Do elkhorn ferns lose fronds in winter?

Sometimes mine lose foliar fronds over winter, and often the shield fronds brown off.  This is normal and they should resume growing once spring comes.

Can elkhorn ferns grow on timber?

Elkhorn ferns can be mounted on live trees, or timber, or plastic, and some people mount them on stones or tree fern trunks.  

Can Elkhorn Ferns Survive Frost?

Elkhorn ferns can sometimes survive a light frost, especially larger established plants, but they are not frost tolerant.  Sustained heavy frosts, like those we experience in my garden, would likely damage or kill them.

Mine have survived temperatures below freezing so far because they are protected from frost, but I would not expect them to tolerate repeated hard frosts without protection.  Low temperature is less problematic, frost is the issue.

Tips for Growing Elkhorn Ferns in Cold Climates

• Protect from heavy frost
• Keep them sheltered from cold winds
• Mount them where they can drain freely
• Reduce watering during cold weather

What I Would Do Differently Next Time

Looking back, my biggest mistakes were using string instead of proper garden wire, and mounting them quickly on a plank of wood I had in the garage because I wasn't prepared.  If I received another batch of young elkhorn ferns, I would have proper mounting boards, sphagnum moss, and wire ready beforehand. 

Products I Wish I Had Used

This post contains affiliate links. If you buy through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products that I use myself or would happily use.

If you're planning to mount your own elkhorn ferns, these are the materials I wish I had used for mine.  Had I more time and warning that I was about to receive these incredible plants, I would have bought:

For Australian readers:

Many people use sphagnum moss for mounting elkhorns.  I used coco peat because I had some in the garage at the time.  They both work for elkhorn ferns, but sphagnum moss is a better option. 

• Compressed coco peat blocks for the backing 
• Sphagnum moss for the backing 
• Staghorn mounting boards better than scraps of timber
• Plastic coated garden wire to secure the fern - far better than the string I used!
• Fish emulsion fertiliser to encourage healthy growth.

Products for US readers:

• Compressed coco peat blocks for the backing 
• Sphagnum moss for the backing 
• Staghorn mounting boards better than scraps of timber
• Plastic coated garden wire to secure the fern - far better than the string I used!
• Fish emulsion fertiliser to encourage healthy growth.

I have not heavily fertilised these yet because they are still establishing and it is winter so I do not want much growth until spring and the weather is warmer.  I plan to fertilise over the warmer months, fish emulsion is commonly used by fern growers once plants are actively growing. 

Final Thoughts

While not every fern survived, I have been pleasantly surprised by how well most of these elkhorn ferns have adapted to my colder climate.  The healthiest plants are continuing to produce new shield and foliar fronds despite winter conditions, giving me confidence that they will perform even better once spring arrives.

I'll continue updating these ferns as they mature, particularly after another winter, to see whether they become fully established outdoors.

Related Articles

If you enjoyed following this elkhorn fern experiment, you may also enjoy some of my other plant and growing experiments, where I test unusual plants, propagation methods, and growing techniques in my own garden. 

• Growing Elkhorn Ferns in Cold Climate
• Growing Staghorn Ferns From Spores - 6 month update
• African Violet Wicking Pots Experiment
• Trampoline Fern Update
• Maidenhair Fern Variety Comparison

Blue vs Pink Rosemary: Which One Is Better for Your Garden?

I have grown several rosemary plants over the years, but two have really stood out to me.  Both are unnamed varieties that I originally planted simply as rosemary, yet after growing them side by side for several years I noticed some interesting differences.

The blue-flowering rosemary has become a large, vigorous shrub that provides shade, attracts pollinators, and produces more rosemary than I can use.  The pink-flowering rosemary stays much smaller and more compact, making it a better choice where space is limited.

This isn't a comparison of named commercial cultivars. Instead, it's a practical comparison based on growing these two rosemary plants side by side in my own garden over the past few years.

Which rosemary is better - Quick Answer

If you're choosing between the two, I'd grow the blue rosemary for production and the pink rosemary where space or appearance matters more.  Both taste almost identical.

This post contains affiliate links.  If you purchase something through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.  I only recommend products I personally use or believe would be useful.

Comparison of blue and pink rosemary varieties

The Large Blue Flowered Rosemary

My blue flowered rosemary is the larger and more vigorous of the two plants.  Blue rosemary is commonly grown in gardens, there are plenty of varieties to choose from.

Mine has now grown to over 6 feet (~1.8 metres) tall and has become one of the largest shrubs in my edible garden.  This plant is a permanent feature beside my chicken run.  I planted it on the western side where it provides some afternoon shade and protection.

One of my favourite things about this rosemary is how much it flowers.  It produces masses of blue flowers.  One thing I notice every time it flowers is how quickly bees and other beneficial insects find it.  On warm sunny days the flowers are often covered with pollinators.

If you are growing rosemary as a large shrub, a good pair of pruning shears makes maintenance much easier, it also makes harvest simple.  

I use these pruning shears, I have smaller hands and find they fit me better than many of the larger styles I have tried.  For me, they are much more comfortable to use when trimming and harvesting herbs.  As this rosemary grows thick woody stems, pruning shears make harvest simple. 

The leaves of my blue rosemary have a strong rosemary aroma and flavour.  Compared with my pink flowering rosemary, I think the aroma is slightly stronger, although if I wasn't growing them side by side I'm not sure I'd notice the difference.

The Pretty Pink Flowered Rosemary

I wrote previously about my pink flowered rosemary, which has a very different growth habit.  This is a rarer rosemary variety. 

Rather than becoming a huge shrub, this plant has stayed shorter and more compact.  It is less vigorous, but the flowers are beautiful and make it a very attractive garden plant.

I think this rosemary would suit smaller gardens, balconies, or growing in pots where a large spreading shrub would become difficult to manage.

Pink Rosemary vs Blue Rosemary

Can You Eat Pink Rosemary?

Yes.  My pink flowering rosemary tastes almost identical to the blue flowering plant.  Although I think the blue variety may have a slightly stronger aroma, the difference is subtle.  Both are excellent culinary herbs, and I use them interchangeably in cooking.

Blue vs Pink Rosemary Comparison

Feature	Blue Flowered Rosemary	Pink Flowered Rosemary
Growth habit	Large, vigorous shrub	Smaller and more compact
Size	Over 6 feet tall	Much shorter
Flowers	Lots of blue flowers	Pretty pink flowers
Pollinators	Excellent, many flowers	Good, but fewer flowers
Best use	Large gardens, hedges, shade planting	Pots and smaller spaces
Flavour	Very similar, possibly slightly stronger	Very similar

If you're growing rosemary in containers, I prefer reasonably large terracotta-style pots because rosemary dislikes sitting in wet soil.  

Rosemary comparison

What About Prostrate Rosemary?

This comparison does not include prostrate rosemary, which is another common type of rosemary with a completely different growth habit.

Prostrate rosemary grows along the ground rather than forming an upright shrub, making it useful for rockeries, retaining walls, and ground cover.  

I grow this too, but it mostly gets lost among my other plants and the upright versions are the ones we mostly use for cooking.  For spilling over retaining walls, my go to plant is Jekka's thyme. 

For this comparison I am only looking at upright rosemary plants.

Do Bees Prefer Blue or Pink Rosemary?

I tend to see honey bees on all my rosemary plants.  The blue variety has more flowers, so tends to have more bees.  As the pink rosemary grows larger, and flowers more, I am expecting it to attract similar amounts of pollinators. 

Rosemary attracts many beneficial pollinators

Which Rosemary Would I Grow?

After growing both, I have no plans to remove either one.  They fill different roles in my garden, and that's exactly why I like having both.   

The large blue flowered rosemary is incredibly useful.  It provides height, shade, flowers for pollinators, and plenty of rosemary for cooking.  I grow this on the western side of my chicken run to provide afternoon shade. 

The pink flowered rosemary is less productive as a large shrub, but it earns its place because it is attractive and easier to fit into a smaller space.  This variety still produces enough rosemary for cooking.  I am also growing this near the chicken run for shade, but have it in a place where I want something shorter.

If I only had room for one rosemary plant, I would choose based on the space available rather than flavour.

For a large garden, the vigorous blue flowering type wins.  For a pot or small garden or if I wanted something more unique, the prettier pink flowering rosemary is probably the better choice.

I grow both of these rosemary plants in my own garden, as well as an unnamed prostrate rosemary.  I currently sell the vigorous blue flowered rosemary, and plan to offer the pink flowered type in the future as I build up stock.  My current plants for sale can be found on my plant sale page.

I grow rosemary near my chicken run

Related Posts

• Pink Flowered Rosemary for the Edible Garden
• Thyme Variety Comparison - which is the best edible thyme variety
• Other Perennial Herbs I Grow - catalogue of herbs and perennial vegetables I grow
• Chicken Run Salad Bar - fresh greens for chickens - how I grow fresh greens for my hens
• Keeping Chickens Laying Through Winter: My Results With Artificial Light - easy way to increase eggs through winter

Kefir vs Filmjölk: Which Cultured Milk Is Easier and Better for Beginners?

Kefir vs Filmjölk: Which Cultured Milk Is Better?

If you're trying to decide between kefir and filmjölk, both are excellent cultured milk products.  After making kefir for several years and filmjölk for several months, I think filmjölk is easier for complete beginners, while kefir offers a little more flexibility once you're comfortable maintaining the grains.

When people first discover fermented milk, they usually hear about kefir.  It's one of the best known cultured dairy products and has a reputation for being incredibly healthy.  Kefir is surprisingly easy to make.

Filmjölk is much less well known outside Scandinavia, despite being one of the easiest cultured dairy products to make at home.  If you can believe this, its even easier to make than milk kefir.  If you haven't tried filmjölk before, I wrote a separate guide showing how I make it at home: How to Make Filmjölk at Home (And Why My Kids Prefer It to Kefir) .

After making milk kefir for several years and filmjölk for several months, I've found they each have strengths.  I still keep both cultures alive because I use them for different purposes.

If you're trying to decide whether to start with kefir or filmjölk, here's what I've learned.

This article contains affiliate links. If you purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.

My home made filmjölk and milk kefir 

What Is The Difference Between Kefir And Filmjölk?

Although both are fermented milk products, they are made quite differently.

Milk kefir is produced using living kefir 'grains'.  These aren't true grains, and pose no danger to anyone with grain allergies.  These grains contain a mixture of bacteria and yeasts that work together to ferment milk.

Filmjölk does not use grains.  Instead, you save a small amount of finished filmjölk and use it to start the next batch.

If you’re deciding which one to start with, the biggest factor is whether you want to maintain kefir grains or prefer a simpler starter-based culture.  From a practical point of view, filmjölk is probably the simpler of the two.

My milk kefir grains 

Quick Comparison: Kefir vs Filmjölk

Feature	Milk Kefir	Filmjölk
Culture type	Kefir grains	Starter culture
Flavour	Tangy, slightly yeasty	Mild and buttery
Texture	Drinkable	Thick and spoonable
Maintenance	Needs grains separated after each batch	Save some finished culture for the next batch
Difficulty	Very easy	Very easy

Filmjölk is thick and spoonable 

Taste: Kefir vs Filmjölk

This is probably the biggest difference between milk kefir vs filmjölk.

Milk kefir has a distinctive tangy flavour that some people love immediately, while others take a little time to appreciate.  Depending on time of year, it can also develop a slight yeasty flavour and sometimes a little natural carbonation.

Filmjölk is much milder.

It has a buttery flavour with gentle acidity that reminds many people of yoghurt, although the texture is smoother and I find it less sour than Greek yogurt.

When I first made filmjölk, I was surprised how easy it was to enjoy straight away.

Which One Do My Kids Prefer?

This surprised me.

I expected everyone to prefer kefir because my kids have grown up drinking it and have always enjoyed it.  

Instead, my children immediately preferred filmjölk.

The milder flavour makes it much easier for people who aren't used to fermented foods, and apparently it's also nicer for kids who grew up drinking kefir.

That doesn't mean kefir is worse.  My kids still like it and drink it most days, they just prefer filmjölk.  Milk kefir just has a stronger flavour.

Making Filmjölk at home - saving some starter for the next batch 

Which One Is Easier To Make?

Both are easy.

Kefir requires one extra step.

After each batch you need to strain out the kefir grains before starting another batch.  I use a plastic mesh strainer because it makes separating the grains quick and simple.

Filmjölk skips this step completely.

To make more filmjölk you simply keep a little from the previous batch and add fresh milk.

If someone told me they had never fermented anything before, I would probably suggest starting with filmjölk because there is less to think about.

Straining my milk kefir grains 

Equipment I Use

I often make both cultures in recycled jars, but they are such a pain to clean.  It's far better to use ordinary glass preserving jars.  They are inexpensive, easy to clean, and the wide opening makes stirring and cleaning easier.

I also keep thermometer strips nearby, especially during winter when my house is cooler and fermentation slows down.  It's interesting how useful these things are. 

Once fermented, I store the finished milk in glass storage jars in the refrigerator.  I keep a lid on while in the fridge, otherwise there is a risk that they will absorb odours and off tastes from the fridge.

I don't use yogurt makers, or incubators, or heating mats to make kefir or filmjölk.  They aren't needed.  My house gets cold over winter, and my ferments always do just fine (althoughsometimestheymight need an extra day before they are ready).

Which One Is Healthier?

This is a common question.

Both contain live cultures, but they are not the same cultures.

Kefir is reported to contain a wider variety of beneficial bacteria and beneficial yeasts than filmjölk, although the exact number depends on the individual culture. 

Filmjölk contains its own traditional cultures and is also a live fermented food.

Rather than saying one is better, I think they are simply different.

I happily consume both.  I personally think of kefir as food and as home remedy medicine, while I only tend to think of filmjölk as food.  

Should You Choose Kefir or Filmjölk?

If you're still undecided, here's a quick summary based on my own experience making both at home.

If you want...	My recommendation
A mild flavour that's easy to enjoy	Filmjölk
A stronger, tangier cultured milk	Kefir
The easiest culture for complete beginners	Filmjölk
A culture with beneficial bacteria and yeasts	Kefir
A thick, spoonable breakfast	Filmjölk
A drinkable fermented milk	Kefir and Filmjölk
The least day-to-day maintenance	Filmjölk
A culture to share and multiply over the years	Both

Which One Would I Recommend?

If you enjoy experimenting and don't mind separating kefir grains, milk kefir is a rewarding culture to keep.  I have kept milk kefir going for years, and I would be really upset if I ever lost it.  I drink milk kefir, I use it on my breakfast in the morning, and use it to make tvorog.

If you want something mild, simple, and easy to maintain, filmjölk is hard to beat.  Given its simplicity, and its mild flavour,  I'm surprised this isn't more commonly made by people at home.

Personally, I don't think it is an either/or decision.

I make both regularly because I like them both and they suit different situations.

I ferment filmjölk with the lid on

Making Kefir and Filmjölk in the Same Kitchen

One question I often get is whether it is possible to make both milk kefir and filmjölk in the same kitchen.

For me, the answer is yes.  I have kept several cultures including milk kefir, kombucha, and filmjölk all going at the same time for years, but I do treat them as separate cultures and take care not to mix them.

I don't share utensils between my kefir and filmjölk.  Each culture has its own jar, spoon, and strainer, which helps reduce the chance of accidentally transferring one culture into the other.

I also handle them slightly differently.  My milk kefir is usually left uncovered while it ferments, which is how I have always made it.  I have always been told that milk kefir is an aggressive culture, and can contaminate other nearby cultures.  My filmjölk is kept covered with a lid while it ferments.

Keeping the filmjölk covered gives me peace of mind that it is less likely to pick up anything from the surrounding environment, especially since I have other active fermented cultures sitting nearby.  

The two cultures are quite different.  Milk kefir grains contain a complex community of bacteria and yeasts, while filmjölk relies on specific lactic acid bacteria.  I like how each tastes, and I like how each has different uses.  I prefer to keep those communities separate rather than risk one gradually changing the other.

My kitchen is not a laboratory, and fermented foods have been made in ordinary kitchens for generations.  However, treating each culture with care makes it easier to keep them healthy and consistent over time.

Where Can You Buy Kefir Or Filmjölk Cultures?

If you want to try making either one, you will need a starter culture.

For kefir, you can start with live milk kefir grains.

For filmjölk, you can use a filmjölk starter culture if you don't have someone nearby who can share some fresh starter.

Both cultures can continue producing batch after batch when cared for properly and can be kept going indefinitely.

I ferment kefir with the lid off

My Recommendation For Beginners

If you have never fermented milk before, start with whichever culture is easiest for you to obtain.

Both are inexpensive to make, forgiving, and require very little equipment.  Both taste great, both have purported health benefits, and both taste remarkably different to one another.

Once you have mastered one, trying the other is very straightforward.

Fermentation Books I Recommend

If you are interested in making kefir, filmjölk, or other fermented foods at home, these are some books I have found useful.

The Art of Fermentation by Sandor Ellix Katz

This is one of the best-known fermentation books and covers a huge range of traditional fermented foods.  It goes well beyond milk fermentation into vegetables, drinks, and other cultures.
Check the current price on Amazon

Wild Fermentation by Sandor Ellix Katz

This is a more approachable introduction to fermentation.  I like it because it focuses on the idea that fermentation has been part of everyday kitchens for thousands of years.
Check the current price on Amazon

Super Gut by William Davis

This book focuses more on gut health and fermented foods.  Some of the health claims are debated, but it contains interesting information about fermented foods and probiotic cultures.
Check the current price on Amazon

Continue Your Fermentation Journey

• Beginner Guide to Making Milk Kefir at Home
• Beginner Guide to Growing Milk Kefir Grains at Home
• How To Make Farmer's Kefir Cheese (Tvorog)
• My Filmjölk Guide

Final Thoughts

After making both milk kefir and filmjölk in my own kitchen, I don't think one is universally better than the other.  They simply suit different people and different situations.

If you enjoy a stronger flavour, want the resilience of kefir grains, or like experimenting with fermented foods, milk kefir is an excellent choice.  If you're looking for something incredibly simple with a mild flavour that the whole family is more likely to enjoy, filmjölk is hard to beat.

In our house, I now keep both cultures going.  Kefir remains my favourite (largely for sentimental reasons), while filmjölk has become the cultured milk my children ask for most often.  Fortunately, they're both easy to maintain, so there's no reason I can't make both.

The New Penguin Russian Course Review: My Experience After 12 Lessons

New Penguin Russian Course Review

If you're looking for a serious Russian textbook that goes beyond simple phrases and tourist vocabulary, The New Penguin Russian Course by Nicholas J. Brown is often one of the first books recommended by experienced language learners. 

I've been using this book as part of my Russian studies and wanted to share my thoughts on its strengths, weaknesses, and whether it's still worth buying today.

If you're just starting Russian, I also put together a complete guide to Russian learning resources, where I compare podcasts, textbooks, apps, and beginner study materials.  Many of those resources are free, and I found all of them to be very helpful. 

Disclosure: Some links in this post are affiliate links.  If you buy through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.  I only recommend resources I personally use or believe may be useful for learners.

You can find The New Penguin Russian Course on Amazon if you'd like to check the current price.

New Penguin Russian Course 

Who am I?

To put this review into context, I'm not a linguist or language teacher.  I'm an adult learner studying Russian in my spare time and currently working through the book at a reasonably slow pace.  

I originally started learning Russian because it is the language of my ancestors.  It is a part of my heritage that was taken from my family, and learning the language is one way of reconnecting with that history.  I also find Russian to be a beautiful language, and the more I learn about it, the more I appreciate its structure, sounds, and the way it expresses ideas.

First Impressions

The first thing that surprised me was the size of the book.  At over 500 pages, this is a substantial course rather than a quick introduction to Russian.

Unlike many modern language apps, The New Penguin Russian Course takes a traditional approach.  It teaches the Russian alphabet, grammar, vocabulary, reading, and translation skills in a structured way.

For learners who enjoy understanding how a language works, this can be a huge advantage.

Progress After 12 Lessons

I’ve been working through the book after learning the Cyrillic alphabet using a free online resource with audio, and after completing the Russian Made Easy podcast.  I don’t think I would have coped well if I had tried to learn it directly from this textbook, but having that foundation made the early lessons much easier for me.   

I no longer absorb new information as quickly as I did when I was younger.  To help me retain the information, I typically complete one lesson every 3 or 4 days, and I often go over the lesson a second time before progressing.  This makes for slower progress, but it helps me retain information that I may otherwise forget.

So far I've reached Lesson 12, and the chapters on the accusative and genitive cases were considerably more challenging than the earlier material.  I found myself rereading those sections several times before the exercises began to feel natural.

One thing I've appreciated about The New Penguin Russian Course is how systematically it builds knowledge from lesson to lesson.  The early chapters feel quite straightforward once you can read Cyrillic, but the difficulty increases significantly with more advanced grammar topics.

Some chapters require considerably more review than others.  When I encounter a difficult grammar concept, I often reread the explanations and repeat the exercises before moving on.

Before starting the book, a simple sentence such as "У меня есть книга" looked completely incomprehensible to me.  By Lesson 12, I can comfortably read simple sentences like this and understand the grammar behind them.  

When listening to spoken Russian, I can sometimes follow very simple, clearly spoken sentences, especially those aimed at children, but adult conversation is still very difficult.  Native speakers talk quickly and use a wide range of vocabulary, so at this stage I mainly pick out familiar words and try to understand the general meaning.

While I'm still very much a beginner, the book has helped me understand how Russian grammar fits together in a way that vocabulary apps alone never did. 

New Penguin Russian Course, and other study materials I use

What I Like About The New Penguin Russian Course

1. Excellent Grammar Explanations

Russian grammar has a reputation for being difficult, especially when it comes to cases, verb aspects, and noun endings.

One reason this book remains popular is that it explains these topics clearly and logically.  Rather than simply telling you what to memorise, it helps you understand the patterns behind the language.

2. A Complete Self-Study Course

Many Russian resources only focus on speaking or vocabulary.

The New Penguin Russian Course feels more like a complete language program.  The lessons build progressively, and the exercises encourage active learning rather than passive reading.

3. Great Value for Money

Considering how much material is included, I think this book offers excellent value.

A single purchase provides enough material to support several months of consistent study.

Check the latest price on Amazon

Disadvantages of The New Penguin Russian Course

No Audio Recordings

This is probably the biggest drawback for me.

Because the book was originally published before online audio resources became common, there are no accompanying recordings.

To improve listening and pronunciation, you'll probably want to combine the book with:

• Russian podcasts
• YouTube channels
• Language exchange partners
• Online tutors

I've listed several of the resources I use in my Russian learning resources guide.

Quite Grammar Heavy

One thing I found frustrating is that some grammar explanations assume a level of linguistic knowledge that complete beginners like me may not have.  

I don't think I would have been able to get this far through without already knowing the Cyrillic alphabet (even though this book does teach the alphabet), and without some basic grammar that I learned from the RussianMadeEasy podcast.

Occasionally I needed to reread sections several times or look up additional explanations online before the concepts clicked.

If you prefer learning through conversation or apps, some sections may feel dense and require patience.

Other Russian Language Courses You May Want to Consider

These are commonly recommended by other learners, but I can't personally comment because I haven't used them.

• Russian: A Comprehensive Grammar - a detailed reference guide for learners who want to understand the rules behind Russian rather than simply memorise phrases.  It is especially useful alongside a course book when you need deeper explanations of cases, verbs, and sentence structure. 
• Colloquial Russian: the complete course for beginners - a more speaking-focused alternative that emphasises dialogues, everyday situations, and practical communication.  It may suit learners who want to start forming conversations earlier and spend less time on detailed grammar explanations. 
• Teach Yourself Complete Russian - a beginner-friendly self-study course designed for independent learners who prefer a gentler introduction. It combines practical vocabulary, dialogues, and grammar explanations, making it a good option for learners who want more guidance before tackling a grammar-heavy textbook.

Who Should Buy The New Penguin Russian Course?

I would recommend The New Penguin Russian Course to:

• Serious self-learners
• Students who enjoy grammar
• Learners looking for a structured course
• People studying Russian for the long term

New Penguin Russian Course, Notebook, Pen - ready to learn

Who Should Not Buy This Book

This probably isn't the best choice if you:

• want to speak basic Russian quickly
• prefer audio-based learning
• dislike studying grammar
• want a gamified app experience

Frequently Asked Questions

Is The New Penguin Russian Course good for beginners?

Yes, although it moves fairly quickly into grammar.  Beginners who enjoy structured learning or who already have some knowledge of Russian will benefit most.

Does The New Penguin Russian Course include audio?

No.  This is one of the book's biggest weaknesses and why I recommend supplementing it with podcasts and YouTube resources.

How long does it take to finish?

At my current pace of one lesson every 3-4 days, then repeated before moving on, I expect it may take about a year to complete.  I'm in no rush.  I'd rather spend a year understanding the language than race through the book and forget everything.  If lessons get harder, or if life gets in the way, it may take me a little longer. 

Is The New Penguin Russian Course better than Duolingo?

They serve different purposes.  Apps are useful for habit building and vocabulary, while this book gives a deeper understanding of grammar. 

What should I buy with The New Penguin Russian Course?

Because the book doesn't include audio, I would pair it with a beginner Russian podcast, listening practice, and a notebook or flashcard system.  The textbook is strongest as a structured grammar foundation.

Is The New Penguin Russian Course Worth It?

In my opinion, yes.

If I were starting Russian again from scratch, I would still buy this book.  Although it requires more effort than an app-based course, the depth of explanation and structured approach make it one of the best resources available for serious self-study.

While it lacks audio and isn't as flashy as modern language-learning apps, it remains one of the most complete Russian textbooks for independent learners.

It does require patience.  Some lessons take me several evenings to work through properly, especially when I want to make sure I fully understand the grammar before moving on.

Every lesson leaves me feeling like I've genuinely learned something.  It's one of the few textbooks that has kept me motivated instead of sitting on the shelf.  Once my copy falls apart from use, I will likely buy a replacement.

Get The New Penguin Russian Course on Amazon.

More Russian Learning Resources

This book is one of several Russian learning resources I've been experimenting with.   

• Complete Russian Learning Resources Guide - my guide of useful free and low cost resources for learning Russian
• RussianMadeEasy - free Russian language podcast

Final thoughts

Learning Russian has also given me an unexpected appreciation for Russian gardening and food culture.  That interest has naturally connected with other parts of my blog, especially traditional food preservation and growing systems.

If you're interested in that side of things, I've previously written about some fascinating heirloom varieties that I grow in my post on heirloom Russian tomatoes.  Studying Russian has also led me to experiment more with traditional foods, including making milk kefir and tvorog at home.

Have you used The New Penguin Russian Course?  Let me know your thoughts in the comments!

Perennial Vegetables, Plants, Seeds & Kefir for Sale – July 2026

For Sale: July 2026

July 2026 availability: live perennial vegetable plant and seed list (Australia).

I grow a range of perennial vegetables, edible plants, herbs, fruiting plants, aquatic plants, and a small selection of ornamental plants from my home garden in Australia.  Everything is grown organically by me and in small seasonal batches.  Most plants are available in small quantities only and some items may sell out during the month.

Availability changes through the year depending on growth cycles and dormancy.

If something is not listed below, it is not currently available this month.  

Recommended books: Many readers ask how I learned to grow perennial vegetables and save seed.  I've put together a short list of the gardening books that have influenced me most near the end of this page.

Duck potato ready for planting

How to Order

To order, please email me with the items you would like:

damien_beaumont [at] yahoo [dot] com [dot] au

(Replace [at] with @ and [dot] with .) 

I will reply with total cost and payment details.  Postage is sent on Mondays after payment clears.

Postage

• $12 standard plant and item postage
• $3.50 seeds only

For Sale: June 2026 

This month’s list includes perennial vegetable plants, edible perennial herbs, berry plants, heirloom and open-pollinated seeds, aquatic plants, and live cultures, all organically grown in my home garden in the Canberra region of Australia.

Bare Rooted Perennial Plants – $5 each (unless stated)

Perennial Onions & Alliums

• Babington leek
• Everlasting onions
• Tree onions

Other Perennial Vegetables

• Asparagus (Purple)
• Asparagus (Precoce D’Argenteuil)
• Chinese Water Chestnut ($3 per small corm)
• Duck potato ($3 per small tuber)
• Jerusalem Artichoke ($3 per tuber)

Culinary Edible Herbs (Perennial)

• Brahmi/water hyssop  
• Jekka's thyme
• Lemongrass
• Peppermint
• Rosemary - blue flowering
• Sweet violet
• Vietnamese fish mint 
• Variegated water parsley (prettier than the all green form)
• Green water parsley (more vigorous stronger tasting version of the variegated form)  
• Watercress 
• Willow herb 

Berries & Fruit

• Pineberry strawberry
• Hokowase strawberry
• Virginian strawberry
• Attila alpine strawberry
• Elderberry
• Jostaberry (pick up only)
• Pomegranate 

Aquatic Plants

• Azolla – $3 per scoop
• Duckweed – $3 per scoop

Heirloom and Open-Pollinated Seeds – $4 per packet (unless stated)

A selection of heirloom, open-pollinated, and home-bred vegetable seeds suitable for seasonal growing in Australian conditions, including rare and unusual vegetable seeds.

• Immali corn (my own sweet corn breeding project producing purple/pink and white kernels)
• Purple hot mustard
• Purple asparagus
• Tomato Tommy Toe
• Tomato Reisetomate 
• Tomato Snow White
  
• Tomato Speckled Roman
• Senposai
• Hon Tsai Tai / Choy Sum (purple stem) 
• Black raspberry seed (not plants) (note: needs minimum of 3 months cold wet stratification to germinate)
• Muscari grape hyacinth - packet of seeds (not bulbs) 

Living Ancient Cultures - Kefir & Ferments - $5 

• Milk kefir grains – approx 1/4 cup (significantly larger quantity than most starter packs)
• Kombucha SCOBY 

Ornamentals/Succulents/Houseplants

• Aloe vera - small plants $5 
• String of pearls succulent - plant $5, cuttings $2
• String of beans succulent (from Coober Pedy) - plant $5, cuttings  $2
• Red jelly bean succulent  $5, cuttings $2
• Succulent - Plectranthus (unnamed variety) $5 
  
• African violet leaf cutting – 'New Hampshire' $3
• African violet leaf cutting – double light blue (unnamed variety) $3

Other Items

• Candle mould “skep” - $10
• Candle mould “owl” - $10

Tommy Toe Tomato 

For photographs, botanical names, growing notes, and detailed descriptions of these plants, see my older catalogue page.  

Please note my catalogue page has a lot of things not currently in season/not currently for sale.  The only things I have for sale this month are listed in this blog post above. 

Recommended books and Equipment

These are the most useful reference books for many of the plants listed above.  They are also the books that got me started on the journey of growing rare edibles and perennial vegetables.

Some links below are affiliate links, which means I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.  I only include books I actively use or strongly recommend for growing the plants in this catalogue.

Seed to Seed, Suzanne Ashworth  
This is the most widely used seed-saving reference book and one I still rely on regularly.  It gives clear, plant-by-plant instructions for saving seed from vegetables and herbs, helping you maintain reliable strains and preserve genetic diversity in a home garden. 
Best for: anyone saving seed from the vegetables, especially leafy greens, legumes, and herbs.

Perennial Vegetables: From Artichokes to Zuiki Taro, a Gardener's Guide to Over 100 Delicious and Easy to Grow Edibles, Eric Toensmeier  
A foundational reference for anyone interested in perennial vegetables.  It covers over 100 perennial vegetables, including many species featured in this catalogue, from common artichokes to lesser known edible perennials.
Best for: building a perennial food garden and exploring unusual edible species.

Lost crops of the Incas 
I love this book!  This one got me started in rare and underutilised vegetables.  It explores traditional Andean crops and highlights many species that are still rarely grown outside their native regions.
Best for: rare crop inspiration and expanding beyond standard vegetable varieties.  

Lost crops of Africa 
A detailed overview of African traditional food crops, their nutrition, and their potential for wider cultivation.  Many of these plants are highly resilient and well suited to harsh or variable climates.
Best for: climate resilient and underused food plants.

The Complete Book of Plant Propagation, H. L. Hartmann
A comprehensive guide to propagation techniques including seeds, cuttings, grafting, and layering.  This is a technical reference, but extremely valuable if you are propagating plants from this catalogue.
Best for: cuttings, grafting, and scaling up rare plants.

Many of you ask what gear I use to manage my garden, take cuttings, and package seeds. Below are the specific, reliable tools I rely on every week.

Felco F-2 Classic Manual Pruning Shears

The absolute industry standard for a reason.  I use these for everything from harvesting asparagus to taking clean woody cuttings of mulberry and elderberry.  They can last a lifetime because every single part is replaceable.

• Best for: Clean, disease-free plant propagation and general pruning.

Check current price for Felco F-2 Shears on Amazon

Self-Sealing Kraft Paper Seed Envelopes (100-Pack)
If you are saving seeds like my Immali corn or Tommy Toe tomatoes, these breathable paper packets are essential.  Unlike plastic baggies, paper prevents moisture buildup and mold, keeping your home-saved seeds viable for years.

• Best for: Organizing, storing, and labeling your seasonal seed harvest.

View Kraft Seed Envelopes on Amazon

Stainless Steel Soil Moisture & pH Meter
Perennial vegetables like watercress, water chestnuts, and asparagus are highly sensitive to their soil and water conditions.  This simple tool helps me instantly check if my beds are holding the right moisture levels before planting out delicate bare-rooted stock.

• Best for: Keeping rare and unusual edibles in their optimal growing zones.

Check Soil Meter Deals on Amazon