How to Make Filmjölk at Home (And Why My Kids Prefer It to Kefir)

What is Filmjölk

Filmjölk (also called Tykmælk in some countries) is a mesophilic ferment similar to yogurt, that I recently started making.  If you've never tried filmjölk before, imagine a cultured milk somewhere between drinking yogurt, sour cream, and kefir.  My kids describe it as "drinkable sour cream".  

I have never tried to make regular yogurt or Greek yogurt.  Normal yogurt needs to be kept warm to do its thing, and requires controlled heat and incubation, which is less convenient at home.  Mesophilic yogurts (like kefir and filmjölk) are far easier and cheaper for people to make at home (and to keep culturing indefinitely as heirlooms) as they do their thing at room temperature with no need for heat mats or incubators and the like.  

The main thing you need to make filmjölk at home is a live starter culture.  I recommend starting with a dedicated heirloom culture rather than trying to revive supermarket products, because it gives you a reliable culture you can keep going batch after batch. 

Filmjölk tastes surprisingly different to kefir considering they are both made from milk that I leave sitting in a jar on my bench.  Luckily, they are both simple to make.  An added bonus is once you get the live starter culture, it is simple to keep making it forever. 

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Filmjölk like drinkable sour cream 

Where I Got My Filmjölk Starter Culture

I started with a live heirloom filmjölk culture rather than a freeze-dried packet.  In my experience, live cultures establish more easily and can be propagated indefinitely.  That being said, posting live culture is problematic and it is far easier to find dried starter cultures for sale.

Most beginners have the best results starting with a dedicated heirloom filmjölk culture rather than trying to propagate commercial cultured milk.  This is the starter culture I would recommend for first-time filmjölk makers. 

Best Equipment for Making Filmjölk

• Filmjölk starter culture
• Milk (any that's not plant based milk)
• Wide-mouth glass jar (much easier to clean than recycled jars)
• Optional thermometer strip (helps produce more consistent results year-round)

Equipment You Don't Need

You do not need:

• yogurt maker
• heating incubator
• expensive fermentation machine
• special containers

A glass jar is enough.  I recommend using a wide-mouth glass jar. 

Can You Make Filmjölk From Store Bought Filmjölk?

Sometimes.  If the product contains live active cultures, it can often be used to start a new batch.  However, many commercial cultured milk products are designed for flavour and consistency rather than long-term propagation.  Traditional heirloom starter cultures are generally more reliable if you intend to keep making filmjölk indefinitely.

Best Filmjölk Starter Culture for Beginners

For beginners, I recommend starting with an established heirloom culture rather than attempting to propagate commercial cultured milk products.  A dedicated starter culture tends to establish more reliably and can usually be propagated indefinitely.

Filmjölk vs Milk Kefir

Filmjölk and Kefir are both ancient cultures used to ferment milk.  They are both somewhat similar to drinking yogurt.

I first made milk kefir using kefir grains back in 2010.  We moved house with our kefir, we made it for a few years, I eventually let it die, then I missed it, got more kefir grains, and I have been making kefir ever since.  

Kefir is sour, intense, can be slightly bubbly, and is good in all the ways I expect of fermented milk.  I drink it as is, or add honey/flavouring, or make tvorog (like cottage cheese) from it.  It has been used as traditional medicine for generations, and the microorganisms in it are generally very resilient and forgiving in home fermentation.  We drink milk kefir raw, or with honey/ice cream topping, or I use it to make tvorog (similar to cottage cheese).  

If you want to try making milk kefir, you could get grains from me, or if you are not ready to start straight away you could buy a kefir starter culture like this one.

Kefir has its origins in Mt Elbrus from an area of the Caucasus mountains that sits within Russia.  I think milk kefir is unmistakably Russian, sometimes too much so for delicate western palates with a preference for bland foods.  Many Russian families I know have made kefir for generations, and it occupies much the same important place in many Russian kitchens as tea or sour cream or buckwheat.  

Filmjölk is similar to kefir in that it is also a traditional mesophilic fermented milk, but it behaves quite differently in both taste and texture.  

Old records mention it in Scandinavia in 1741, and it is far older than that, likely pre-dating the Viking era.

Filbunke is thicker than filmjölk

What is Filbunke?

In practice, the distinction between filmjölk and filbunke can be blurry when made at home.  The same culture can produce anything from a drinkable cultured milk to a spoonable custard-like ferment depending on fermentation time and conditions.

Filbunke is a lot thicker than filmjölk, I think of it as being closer in texture to yogo than it is to milk.  For me, making filbunke usually means leaving the jar of filmjölk on the bench to set for an extra day.

Filmjölk and Filbunke are not separate things, so much as different ways of using the same culture, and I believe the end consistency is the only material difference.  

I am not sure if the end product I make would technically be considered filmjölk, or filbunke, or if it is somewhere in between.  

Some Filmjölk/Filbunke/Tykmælk I made at home 

How Filmjölk is Made at Home

Compared to kefir and yogurt, there is surprisingly little practical information available about making filmjölk at home.  I don’t know if I am doing it 'right', but I can comment on what I do and how it is working for me.  

I only got Filmjölk earlier in 2026, and even though I am new to making this I don't see how it could go wrong as it is really simple.  

In my experience, live heirloom cultures tend to establish more quickly and are easier for a beginner to maintain than freeze-dried starters.  Once established, they can be propagated indefinitely by reserving a small amount from each batch. 

Filmjölk Flavor and Texture

Filmjölk has a custard like consistency, it is velvety and smooth.  

Taste wise I think that filmjölk is very different to kefir.  Filmjölk tastes buttery, my kids describe it as being almost like drinkable sour cream, they love it. 

My kids describe Filmjölk as drinkable sour cream

Microorganisms in Filmjölk

Filmjölk contains a mix of lactic acid bacteria, which can vary depending on culture, milk, and conditions.  While specific numbers vary enormously between cultures and studies, filmjölk is said to contain up to about 25 strains of microorganisms, this changes depending on the season and conditions as it is never entirely stable and it gains and loses species over time.  

While this number sounds impressive, and is hugely more than any store bought yogurt, it is a drop in the ocean when compared to milk kefir which is recorded having up to 78 different strains of microorganisms.  It is also noteworthy that filmjölk only contains bacteria, whereas kefir contains a complex symbiotic colony of bacteria and yeasts.  The lack of yeasts slightly changes how I ferment this as opposed to kefir.

When I speak about the number of strains of microorganisms, I am only talking about home made.  When made at home the traditional way, filmjölk has a higher number of species than store bought.  Many supermarket “filmjölk” products are modern probiotic dairy drinks inspired by traditional filmjölk, and have less complex flavour profiles.  I am told that most of these store bought ones often only have three or so strains, mostly including: Lactococcus lactis, Lactococcus lactis subsp. cremoris, and Leuconostoc mesenteroides, but some of the better brands may have more.  

How I Make Filmjölk at Home

I make filmjölk by adding a mesophilic starter culture to a jar of milk, and leaving it at room temperature until it thickens.  I usually make mine in simple glass jars with screw-top lids because they're easy to clean and don't retain odours.  I tend to use a jar with a wide mouth as it makes it easier to use.  

While I tend to use recycled pickle jars because they're free, a purpose-made wide mouth glass jar is easier to clean and much more convenient if you're making filmjölk regularly.  A wide-mouth jar is not essential, but it makes removing filmjölk easier, reduces trapped residue around the neck, and is much easier to clean between batches.

I usually leave it for around 12–24 hours depending on temperature (or an extra 24 hours if I want to end up with the thicker filbunke).  If you're trying to be consistent, a simple thermometer strip can help monitor temperature.  If your kitchen temperature changes through the year, a simple stick-on thermometer strip can help you see what is happening inside the jar without opening it.

Unlike kefir or kombucha, I ferment filmjölk with a lid on as I worry that it may be contaminated by kefir or other ferments in my kitchen.  Perhaps I am being over cautious, but as filmjölk only has lactic acid bacteria, it does not need the lid off and will not build dangerously high pressure.

Once set, I refrigerate it and keep aside a small amount as a starter for the next batch.  Over time, the culture stabilises and becomes pretty consistent (like any living culture they always vary a bit seasonally).

Saving a little filmjölk starter for a new batch

My Experience Making Filmjölk

I first obtained my filmjölk starter as a liquid culture early in 2026, and wasn’t entirely sure what to expect.  There is very little practical information available compared to kefir or yogurt.  Most of the information I could find was people using dry starter culture powders, and struggling to make them work.

When it arrived it smelled a bit like butter, and a bit like sour milk/kefir, but it did not smell like rancid milk.  If it ever smells rotten, or grows odd colors, throw it away.  I tasted some to try and remember what it should taste like.

Most internet sites say to use 1 or 2 tablespoons of starter per cup of milk, but I used about 1/4 cup starter to 3/4 cup milk the first time to make sure it had enough microorganisms inoculating the milk.  It set quickly at room temperature, and developed a smooth, custard-like texture.  After that I stored it in the fridge until I was ready to drink it.  

Each time I make a batch of filmjölk I keep some to make a new batch, and the cycle goes on.  I find it very simple to make. 

My kids like the taste of filmjölk as it is buttery and less harsh than kefir.  While my kids use honey and ice cream topping in kefir, they only drink filmjölk raw as it is less sour.      

For me, filmjölk behaves more predictably than milk kefir.  Each batch of filmjölk is similar to the last, whereas each batch of milk kefir seems to be noticeably different to the last.  

Fermenting filmjölk turned out to be simpler than I expected, especially compared to more active ferments like kefir.  Sloshing a little live starter into milk every now and again is not hard.  It also stores well in the fridge, so I can have a break from making it every now and again.

I have only been making filmjölk for a small amount of time, but given how simple it is and how much my kids like it I have a feeling I will be making this for years to come.  Over the small amount of time I've had it the taste changed slightly, it is less buttery now, but my kids still like the taste more than milk.  

Filmjölk is not the same as kefir

Filmjölk vs Milk Kefir at a Glance

Feature	Filmjölk	Milk Kefir
Starter	Filmjölk culture	Kefir grains
Fermentation	Bacteria	Bacteria and yeasts
Taste	Buttery and mild	Tangy, intense, and sour
Texture	Smooth and custard-like	Drinkable and variable
Carbonation	None	Sometimes slightly fizzy
Consistency	Predictable	More variable

Common Mistakes When Making Filmjölk

• Using too little starter
• Fermenting somewhere too cold or too hot (this is where thermometer strips come in handy)
• Throwing away starter accidentally
• Not putting some starter aside before mixing in flavouring or fruit
• Expecting it to taste like yogurt
• Confusing filmjölk with spoiled milk

Frequently Asked Questions

Where can I buy filmjölk starter culture in Australia?

Filmjölk starter culture can be difficult to find in Australia.  If you don't know anyone who maintains a live culture, you can check current availability of starter cultures here.

What milk works best for filmjölk?

Most types of mammal milk can be used, including full cream, low fat, and UHT milk.  Fresh milk tends to produce a richer texture, while low fat milk results in a lighter consistency.  The culture will generally adapt over time to the milk used.  Don't use plant based milk, they don't work over the long term.

Does filmjölk contain probiotics?

Filmjölk contains naturally occurring lactic acid bacteria from its starter culture.  The exact composition can vary depending on the culture and fermentation conditions.  Like most traditional fermented foods, it is valued for its live cultures rather than a fixed probiotic profile.

How long does filmjölk take to ferment?

At room temperature, filmjölk usually takes around 12 to 24 hours to set, depending on the temperature and strength of the culture.  Cooler environments take longer, while warmer conditions will speed up fermentation.

Can I reuse filmjölk to make more batches?

Yes.  A small amount of finished filmjölk can and should be used as a starter for the next batch.  Over time, cultures may weaken slightly, so it is common to refresh them periodically with a new starter culture.  

If your culture eventually weakens, you can always restart with a fresh filmjölk starter culture.

Filmjölk gets thicker the longer you ferment it 

Books That Helped Me Learn Fermentation

Filmjölk is one of the easiest fermented foods I have ever made.  Unlike yogurt, it requires no heating, and unlike kefir there are no grains to strain or maintain.  If you're curious about fermented dairy but want something simple, filmjölk is an excellent place to start.

If you're interested in fermented foods generally, I found fermentation books helpful when I first started making kefir and other cultured foods.

Wild Fermentation - if I could only recommend one fermentation book, it would be Wild Fermentation.  It covers the bigger picture of traditional fermentation, which helped me understand why things like kefir, filmjölk, sauerkraut, and sourdough work.

The Art of Fermentation - this is a comprehensive resource for anyone interested in traditional fermented foods, including cultured dairy products such as kefir, yogurt, and other heirloom ferments.

Ferment For Good: Ancient Foods for the Modern Gut: The Slowest Kind of Fast Food - is a practical introduction to traditional fermentation, covering everything from sauerkraut and kefir to kombucha and sourdough, with a focus on improving gut health through homemade fermented foods

Where to buy filmjölk starter culture in Australia

Filmjölk has quickly become one of my favourite fermented dairy cultures.  It is simple to make, requires no special equipment, and produces a smooth, buttery, cultured milk that my family enjoys. 

While I still make milk kefir regularly, filmjölk has earned a permanent place in my kitchen and is one of the easiest heirloom cultures I have worked with.

Filmjölk is still relatively uncommon in Australia, and obtaining a live starter culture can be more difficult than finding kefir grains.  

 If you want to make it at home, This is the starter culture I would recommend for first-time filmjölk makers.

At this stage I am mostly making it for my kids to enjoy.  If I have excess starter culture available, I also occasionally list it on my live cultures and plant sales page.

Lucky Iron Fish Review After 3 Years (2026 Update): Does It Still Work?

I first wrote about the Lucky Iron Fish in January 2022 after several months of use, and followed up with an 18-month update in 2023.  Now that more than three years have passed, I thought it was time for another update.  Do I still use it? Has my opinion changed?  And would I still recommend it today?

One reason I still like the Lucky Iron Fish is that it fits my general preference for simple, low-tech solutions.  Much like growing perennial vegetables or saving seed, it's a one-time purchase that can potentially provide benefits for many years without ongoing expense.

This post contains affiliate links.  If you buy through these links, I may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.  

If you'd like to check the current price or read customer reviews, you can find the Lucky Iron Fish on Amazon.

If you're unfamiliar with the product, you may want to start with my original Lucky Iron Fish review, where I explain what it is and why I decided to try it. 

I also published an 18-month update covering my experience after the initial honeymoon period.

Lucky Iron Fish - 3 years of use and no rust

Quick Verdict

Ease of Use: 4.5/5
Durability: 5/5
Value for Money: 5/5
Effectiveness: 4/5

Overall Recommendation: 4.5/5

What Is the Lucky Iron Fish?

For anyone new to the concept, the Lucky Iron Fish is a small cast-iron cooking tool designed to increase the iron content of food and liquids. It is typically simmered in water or soups with a small amount of acid, such as lemon juice, to help release iron during cooking.

For a more detailed explanation of how it works, see my original review.

Lucky Iron Fish after 3 years of use - other side

My Experience After More Than Three Years

One thing that has surprised me is how easily the Lucky Iron Fish became part of my routine.  What initially felt like an extra step in cleaning up after dinner gradually became a habit.

Over the past three years I've probably used the Lucky Iron Fish several hundred times, mostly when making soups, vegetable stocks, and slow-cooked stews.   Aside from some minor surface discoloration, and a few scratches, it looks much the same as when I bought it.

Even after years of use, my Lucky Iron Fish has no rust.  I use it, dry it, and put it away.  It's really very simple.

Since I started using the Lucky Iron Fish, I haven't felt the need to stop using it or switch to iron supplements.  While I can't prove exactly how much it contributes compared with diet and other factors, I still consider it worthwhile enough to keep using regularly after three years.

Lucky Iron Fish just removed from water

What's Changed Since My 18-Month Update?

• I still use it regularly.
• It hasn't developed any rust.
• It has held up physically with no signs of wearing out.
• Using it has become automatic rather than something I need to remember.
• My opinion of the product remains largely unchanged.

Lucky Iron Fish boiling in water

Has It Improved My Iron Intake?

This is probably the question people ask most often.

While I cannot say with certainty that every change in my health is due to the Lucky Iron Fish alone, I believe it has been a useful addition to my overall approach to maintaining healthy iron levels.  Diet, general health and other lifestyle factors all play a role, so it is difficult to isolate any single factor.

My experience has been positive enough that I have continued using it long after the novelty wore off.

Things I Like About the Lucky Iron Fish

• Simple to use
• No ongoing costs
• No batteries or electronics
• Durable and long-lasting
• Easy to store
• Cost-effective over many years

If these advantages sound appealing, you can view the latest price and customer reviews for the Lucky Iron Fish here.

Lucky Iron fish and an organic lemon from my tree

Drawbacks After Three Years

No product is perfect.

The biggest drawback is remembering to use it consistently.  Like many healthy habits, the benefits depend on regular use.

It also works best in recipes where it can simmer for a while, which means it is not suitable for every meal.  Some people may find the extra step inconvenient.

One challenge is that it's difficult to know exactly how much benefit you're getting.  Unlike taking a supplement with a measured dosage, the amount of iron released depends on how it's used and what you're cooking.  People looking for precise supplementation may prefer a different approach.  

Is the Lucky Iron Fish Still Worth Buying in 2026?

For me, yes.

After more than three years of ownership, it has proven durable, inexpensive over the long term and easy to incorporate into everyday cooking.  I still use it regularly, which is probably the strongest endorsement I can give.

If you're interested in trying it yourself, you can check current price of the Lucky Iron Fish on Amazon.

Lucky Iron Fish - dry with tea towel after use while hot

Frequently Asked Questions

Does the Lucky Iron Fish really work?

The Lucky Iron Fish is designed to release small amounts of iron into food during cooking.  Individual results will vary depending on diet, health and consistency of use.

How long does the Lucky Iron Fish last?

Based on my experience, at least three years and likely much longer.  Mine has been used hundreds of times and still functions exactly as it did when new.

Can the Lucky Iron Fish rust?

It can develop surface rust if not cared for properly.  I just wipe it dry with a tea towel while it is still hot, and mine has no rust after more than three years of use. 

Is the Lucky Iron Fish worth the money?

For people looking for a long-term, reusable option, I think it offers excellent value.  For people looking for a reusable long-term option, I think the Lucky Iron Fish offers excellent value for money.

Lucky Iron Fish, slotted spoon, lemon, saucepan

Related Products I Use

• Lucky Iron Fish or Lucky Iron Leaf
• Slotted spoon - I could not use the Lucky Iron Fish without this 
• tea towel - for drying the Lucky Iron Fish after use
• Lemon juicer 

Final Thoughts After Three Years

Three years later, my opinion remains positive.  The Lucky Iron Fish has become one of those simple kitchen tools that quietly does its job without much attention.

Perhaps the strongest endorsement I can give is that after more than three years, I still use the Lucky Iron Fish regularly rather than leaving it forgotten in the back of a kitchen drawer.  If I lost it tomorrow, I would buy another one.

If you'd like to see how my experience evolved over time, you can also read my original review from 2022 and my 18-month update from 2023.

African Violet Wicking Pots vs Regular Pots: 7-Month Side-by-Side Comparison

I've been growing African violets for over five years and using self-watering wick pots for the past two.  To see whether wick pots genuinely improve growth, I grew genetically identical African violet plants using two different watering methods for around 7 months and compared their growth, leaf size, flowering, and overall performance. 

This post contains affiliate links.  I may earn a small commission from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you. 

I’ve been testing growing African violets in regular pots, against these small self-watering pots, and the growth difference has been surprising.   

Self-watering wick pot experiment showing increased leaf size and more vigorous growth

Do Wicking Pots Improve African Violet Growth?

Yes.

In my comparison using genetically identical African violet plants grown under the same conditions, the plants in self-watering wick pots produced:

• larger leaves
• thicker petioles
• earlier flowering
• more blooms
• less watering maintenance

The regular-pot plants still grew healthy, but they were smaller, produced fewer flowers, and grew more slowly.

Comparison of African Violets Grown in Wicking Pots vs Regular Pots

The wick pots cost more than standard nursery pots.  However, after using both methods for years, I find the reduced maintenance and improved growth easily justify the extra cost.  I lose fewer plants to drying out, spend less time watering, and achieve more reliable flowering.

This table summarises the key differences observed in the experiment, comparing growth rate, flowering, watering needs, and overall plant performance under identical growing conditions.

Feature	Wicking / Self-Watering Pots	Regular Pots
Watering frequency	Low - reservoir keeps soil consistently moist	High - needs regular manual watering
Growth rate	Faster, more vigorous growth	Slower, steady growth
Leaf size	Larger leaves with thicker petioles	Smaller, more compact leaves
Flowering	Earlier and often more abundant blooms	Later flowering, fewer blooms initially
Maintenance	Low maintenance, ideal for busy or away from home periods	Higher maintenance, risk of drying out in hot weather
Risk of over/under watering	Lower risk when using airy mix (e.g. perlite blend)	Higher risk, especially if inconsistent watering
Overall performance (this experiment)	Best performance: stronger, faster-growing plants	Good performance: healthy but slower growth

Are There Any Downsides to Wick Pots?

While wick pots performed better in my comparison, they are not perfect.

The main disadvantage is the higher upfront cost compared to standard plastic nursery pots. They also work best with a very free-draining potting mix.  I use roughly 50% perlite and 50% potting mix, which helps prevent the soil from staying too wet.

Wick pots can also encourage faster growth, which means plants may need repotting sooner than those grown in regular pots.

For me, the reduced watering and improved flowering easily outweigh these minor drawbacks, but regular pots are still a perfectly viable option for growing healthy African violets.

Recommended Self-Watering Wick Pots for African Violets

Based on this experiment, self-watering wick pots were the clear winner for faster growth, larger leaves, and more consistent flowering.

If you want to try the same setup, I recommend using small wick pots (around 7–10cm wide) with a built-in water reservoir.  These are ideal for African violets and help maintain steady moisture without constant watering.

• Consistent moisture for healthier root development
• Reduce watering frequency
• Less risk of drying out in hot weather
• Encourage faster growth
• Better flowering performance in this trial

See the exact wick pots I use

Watering frequency

Low - reservoir keeps soil consistently moist

High - needs regular manual watering

Growth rate

Faster, more vigorous growth

Slower, steady growth

Leaf size

Larger leaves with thicker petioles

Smaller, more compact leaves

Flowering

Earlier and often more abundant blooms

Later flowering, fewer blooms initially

Maintenance

Low maintenance, ideal for busy or away from home periods

Higher maintenance, risk of drying out in hot weather

Risk of over/under watering

Lower risk when using airy mix (e.g. perlite blend)

Higher risk, especially if inconsistent watering

Overall performance (this experiment)

Best performance: stronger, faster-growing plants

Good performance: healthy but slower growth

More African violets for comparison

I got my first African violet around May 2021, which is over 5 years ago now.  I have grown many African violets from leaf cuttings.  Some I grew in wicking pots like these ones, others I grew using regular watering.  I have a few plants in each type of pot, the photos you see below are all plants I grew.  I still have some of these plants, others I have since sold.

The wicking pots come in different colours, I have some white and some grey and I like them both.  The regular pots I use are about 10cm across, I tend to buy them in bulk like this as I find them perfect for many different plants that I grow.

Regular pot (left) showing slower growth vs self-watering wick pot (right) with larger leaves

The same plants as above - from a different angle

The potting mix I use for African violets

I tend to do things cheap, and I only want to do things that work long term.  You certainly could use specialised African violet potting mix, but it often seems expensive.  Instead I make my own blend of potting mix and perlite, it is inexpensive and clearly effective, as shown by the length of time my African violets have been thriving.  

I buy a cheap potting mix and mix it with perlite.  I mix them together in a 50:50 mix, but sometimes include more perlite than soil.  

It's very easy to make my own mix like this.  I get a pot full of perlite and tip it into an ice cream container, another pot full of potting soil, mix them by hand, and I have two pots worth of African violet mix ready to use.  This works over the long term, I have many African violets growing in this mix and have never had issues with rot or damping off.

My Simple African Violet Soil Mix (Budget-Friendly)

I don’t use expensive specialty African violet mixes.  Instead, I’ve had long-term success using a simple blend of standard potting mix and perlite.

•   50% standard potting mix
•   50% perlite (sometimes slightly more perlite) 

This creates a light, well-draining mix that works especially well with wick pots.

Supplies I use:

• standard potting mix 
• perlite 

My African violet wick growing vs regular pot experiment

I took a leaf cutting of an established African violet.  Once it had some leaf babies, I let them grow until large enough to handle easily, then I divided them.  

Interestingly, I find I can replant the mother leaf several times and get extra baby plants.  This is particularly useful when dealing with rarer varieties or varieties with sentimental value.

African violet leaf babies before division, all grown from the same parent leaf for a controlled comparison

By using leaf babies from the same mother leaf I was using genetically identical plants.  When I divided them they were the same age, and were much the same size.  This helps any differences I noticed to be based on growing conditions rather than genetics or age.

I used exactly the same potting mix, that I mixed on the same day, and transplanted them all the same day.  Some were planted into regular pots, some were planted into wicking self-watering pots, that was the only difference.  I don't have any photos of transplanting these because my hands get all wet and grubby while dividing African violets.

I grew the plants side by side in the same tray (I grow them in a tray so I can move them easily) for around 7 months.  All plants in this experiment were grown side by side under identical light conditions, mostly they were in the tray near a window, some days I moved the tray outside into bright shade.  The difference in vigour and size was noticeable from early on.  

African violets grown in regular pots

The African violets grown in regular pots grew well.  They are all healthy, and grew large.  I have grown plenty of African violets like this, it works well for me.

I tend to buy these pots in bulk as they look good and are perfect for growing many plants including herbs and succulents and ferns.

Growing like this means I have to water often.  If I go away, I tend to put them in a tray with a tiny bit of water, and hope they don't rot and don't dry out while I am away.

Overall this is not a bad way to grow them, and I have some plants that have been in regular pots for years and are still doing well.  

Over the years I have lost a few small plants in regular pots due to drying out.  This mostly happens if I have been unwell and the weather has been hot.  

African violet in regular pot showing healthy growth but smaller overall plant size compared to wick pot plants

Struggling with Drying Out or Inconsistent Watering?

One of the main issues I found with regular pots was inconsistent moisture levels, especially during hot weather or when I was away. 

Switching to self-watering wick pots helped remove that variability and made plant care much more predictable. 

Another African violet - looking good

African violets grown in wicking self-watering pots

The African violets grown in the wick watering pots also grew well.  I have grown many African violets this way, and am always happy with the results. 

Watering these is simple, when the little well is low I top it up.  This provides continuous moisture, even if I go away for a while or am too unwell to water plants.  

As the wick draws up moisture, but not too much moisture, there are no problems with rotting if I use 50% perlite in the soil mix.  Sometimes roots grow out of the drainage hole in the pot and reach down into the water.  This is fine, it doesn't seem to bother the plant.

African violet in self-watering wicking pot

Another African Violet grown in a wicking pot

Comparison between African violets grown in wicking self-watering pots or regular pots

As you can see above, African violets can and do grow well in wicking pots or regular pots.  Wicking pots are certainly simpler, but I was curious to see if there was any difference in growth rate.

The African violets grown in wicking pots grew better for me.  The leaf blade is larger, the petiole (leaf stalk) is longer and thicker, and there appear to be more leaves on the plants grown in wicking pots.  All of this indicates stronger and healthier plants.

Importantly, the African violets grown in wicking pots flowered earlier, and produced more flowers, than the ones in regular pots.  You can't really see this in any of the photos, but all the plants in wicking pots have flower buds, while all the plants in regular pots don't.  I am guessing I won't see flowers on the regular pot grown African violets until spring.  

I now use self-watering wick pots for most of my African violets because they reduced drying issues and improved growth in my comparison.

Side-by-side African violet comparison: self-watering wick pot (left) vs regular pot (right)

Additional comparison plants showing consistent differences in vigour between watering methods

Conclusion: Do Wicking Pots Improve African Violet Growth?

Based on my comparison, African violets grown in self-watering wick pots:

• grew larger leaves
• developed thicker petioles
• flowered earlier
• produced more blooms
• Were easier to care for

The plants grown in regular pots still performed well, but required more frequent watering and were more vulnerable during hot or dry periods.  I suspect the improved growth comes from the plants receiving a more consistent supply of moisture, rather than going between wetter and drier conditions as happens with conventional watering.  

Overall, I prefer wick pots for most of my African violets due to their consistency and reduced maintenance.

African violet leaf comparison, regular on left, wick pot on right

Underside of African violet leaves - slightly more colour in wicking pot

African violet grown in wicking pots produced larger leaves for me

Wicking pots long term African violet growth

So now you have seen how African violets performed better in wicking pots under my growing conditions, the sensible thing to consider is will this continue to work long term.  I don't care how fast and large they grow if they rot and die, I want long term successful growth, and I want many many vibrant flowers.  

I am happy to say that I have been growing African violets in these wicking pots for about 2 years.  The plants are healthy and strong, and they keep pumping out the blooms.  While the photos below are of a different variety than the one used in the comparison, these two have been flowering well in wicking pots for quite a long time.

Long-term African violet growth in self-watering wick pot showing sustained flowering and healthy leaves

Quick Summary

• Same African violet variety (grown from leaf cuttings from my existing plant)
• Same soil mix (50/50 cheap potting mix + perlite)
• Same light, temperature, water
• Only difference: pot type
• Wick pots = faster growth + more robust plants + more flowers
• Regular pots = still healthy but slower and higher maintenance

African violet in self-watering wick pot produce abundant blooms, sometimes with more flowers than visible leaves

Where to buy Wicking Pots for African Violets

I keep several wicking pots on hand because I find them useful for many different plant species, not just African violets.  I am even growing out some staghorn fern pups in them where they are performing beautifully.  

I can find wicking pots locally, but they tend to be over priced and rarely the size I am looking for.  For this reason I tend to buy them online such as through Amazon.  For African violets I generally go for something about 7cm across. 

Start Growing African Violets the Easy Way

If you’re setting up from scratch, the combination that worked best in this experiment was:

• Small self-watering wick pots
• Light potting mix with added perlite
• Bright indirect light near a window

This setup reduces maintenance and helps maintain consistent growth conditions year-round.

Recommended starter supplies:

• African violet wick pot
• standard potting mix 
• perlite 

Wicking pots produced larger African violet leaves

Frequently Asked Questions

Do African violets like self-watering pots?

Yes.  In my experience they grow larger leaves, flower earlier, and require less maintenance.

Can African violets stay wet all the time?

Not exactly.  The key is using a very airy mix with plenty of perlite.

What size wick pot is best for African violets?

I prefer pots around 7–10 cm wide for mature plants.

Do wick pots cause root rot?

Not in my experience when using a 50% perlite mix. 

How often do you refill a wick pot?

I water whenever the reservoir starts to get low, usually every few weeks.

Who should consider wick pots?

• People who forget to water plants
• People who water plants too much or too often
• Anyone growing multiple African violets
• People who travel frequently or go on holiday
• Growers wanting maximum flowering

You probably don't need them if you only have one violet and enjoy regular watering. 

African Violet Leaves and Plants for Sale

African violets performing well in wicking pots (please ignore the mess birds left on the railing)

I sometimes have African violet leaf cuttings available from my own plants, including the exact plants used in this experiment.  These can be used to grow new plants at home, and are taken from my healthy, well-established African violets.

If you would like to try growing your own African violets, I list available leaves and plants through my for sale catalogue page.  I am happy to provide detailed notes on how I grow them.  

Keep an eye on that page as availability is highly seasonal and varies significantly depending on what I am currently propagating. 

Growing staghorn Ferns From Spores: 6 month Update - Which Growing Method Worked Best

I experimented growing staghorn ferns (Platycerium superbum) from spores.  While they had good germination rates and they initially grew well, many refused to grow further until I divided and transplanted them.  I carried out this division around November/December 2025 when they were already about 12 months old.

Around that time, I separated and repotted my staghorn sporelings and wrote a previous post on the process of growing staghorn ferns from spores.  

Staghorn ferns grown from spores 

Growing staghorn ferns from spores can be a slow process, but it can be very rewarding once the plants reach the sporophyte stage.  I also wrote another update about their 3 month progress after division.  

It is now early June 2026, around six months since that division (meaning my spore grown staghorn ferns are now around 18 months old), and it is time to write another update on how these baby ferns are progressing.

This post may contain affiliate links, including Amazon Associates links.  As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.

Staghorn ferns grown in seedling flat

These ferns did not perform well in the seedling flat.  Most eventually died, and the few that survived showed very little growth.  The humidity dome was helpful, not only to increase humidity,  but also protecting the tiny ferns from birds and temperature fluctuations.

The main challenge was moisture control, at times they were too wet, and at other times they dried out too much. 

From my experience, this setup is not ideal for beginners growing staghorn ferns from spores.  I won't be attempting to grow staghorn ferns like this again.

Small staghorn fern sporelings grown in a seedling tray after 18 months

Poor survival of staghorn fern spores in seedling flat setup

Humidity dome was helpful for growing sporelings

Staghorn fern sporelings in 24 cell tray

These spore grown staghorn ferns performed well.  Some died for reasons currently unknown.  Some survived but (again for reasons unknown) did not really grow much.  Others have grown large and strong.  I have high hopes these will survive my winter.

For beginners (such as myself), this method has been the most reliable so far.  I keep the trays under a humidity dome, like above.  This setup makes it simple to keep the humidity high, to keep the moisture at the right level, and basically keep everything going with little effort from me.

As the ferns mature, I will be able to open the vents to acclimatise them to lower humidity before eventually mounting them.

Over winter, even though they are under cover on my deck, it still can drop below freezing.  The humidity dome should provide some extra protection from the cold.  The dome should also help them get a little warmer on sunny days.  

This 24-cell propagation tray made moisture control much easier than my earlier setup (similar to this one). 

My staghorn ferns grown from spores

Some didn't survive, I don't know why

Some staghorn ferns survived and grew vigorously

Vigorous Platycerium superbum grown from spores in a 24-cell tray

Some spore grown staghorn ferns were larger

Other spore grown staghorn ferns were smaller

This setup worked well for growing staghorn ferns from spores 

Humidity dome helps staghorn fern sporelings 

Something unexpected happened in the 24 cell trays.  Spores that had not germinated over the past year have now started to sprout.

As shown in the photos, there are clusters of tiny prothallus emerging in several cells.  With any luck, these should grow and turn into tiny staghorn ferns.  Once they are larger, if they survive winter, I will be able to divide these and hopefully grow a few more staghorn ferns.

Given my success using the 24 cell trays in a humidity dome, this is the system I plan to use when dividing these extra spore grown staghorn ferns.

Staghorn ferns gametophytes and sporophytes

Some baby staghorn ferns are strong and vigorous

Growing staghorn ferns in wicking self watering pot

The staghorn ferns in the wicking pots all survived and have shown steady growth.  While they are not as large as those in the 24 cell trays, they have been much more consistent.

I keep these on a kitchen windowsill, where they receive stable light, more stable temperatures, and are easy to monitor.

For beginners, this has been one of the most reliable setups.  Watering is simple, humidity is easy to manage, and every plant I placed in these pots has survived so far.

I tend to use small wicking pots such as these.  They come with the pot, the base, and a wick.  I then used sticky tape and a clear container on top for humidity.  While the larger size pots would also work, I prefer the smaller size as they are great for several spore grown staghorn ferns, and I can also grow African violets and other plants in them. 

Every staghorn fern survived in a wicking pot

Wick watering pots make staghorn ferns from spore easy

Staghorn ferns in self watering pot

Staghorn fern sporelings prefer high humidity

If my staghorn ferns survive winter, I will think about trying to mount them in spring. 

Hopefully I will have some additional spore grown staghorns survive winter that I can divide and grow out. 

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to grow a staghorn fern from spores?

In my very limited experience, it took approximately 18 months to produce plants of this size from spores.  This timeframe could have been a little faster had I divided them earlier.

Do staghorn fern spores need high humidity?

Yes.  While mature staghorn ferns need far less humidity, spore grown ferns appear to have different requirements.  All of my successful methods relied on maintaining consistently high humidity.

What is the best container for growing staghorn fern spores?

The 24-cell propagation tray produced the largest plants, while self-watering wicking pots produced the highest survival rate.

Can old staghorn fern spores still germinate?

Apparently yes.  Some spores in my trays germinated more than a year after they were originally sown.

What I would do differently in my experiment growing staghorn ferns from spores

If I were starting again, I would use the 24-cell tray setup from the beginning.  While not every plant survived, many did, and they resulted in the largest and most vigorous staghorn ferns.  These 24 cell trays didn't take much space, and were able to fit a lot of plants. 

As a back up, I would also use some small self watering pots, as they were so simple to use, and resulted in no losses.  These look nice on the windowsill, but can only fit a small number of plants.

For beginners like myself who are attempting to grow staghorn ferns from spores outside their preferred climate,  I think a combination of the 24 cell tray setup and some small wicking pots gives the highest chances of success. 

After roughly 18 months growing Staghorn ferns (Platycerium superbum) from spores, I found that high humidity is a key factor.  The 24-cell propagation trays produced the fastest growth, while self-watering wicking pots produced the highest survival rates.  If I were starting again, I would use both methods and avoid the seedling flat approach entirely.

I plan to post another update in spring, to show what worked and what didn't over winter.  I'm learning a lot from my little experiment growing staghorn ferns from spores, and hope my posts help someone else attempting this.