A Lifelong Fascination with Scorpions

One evening when I was a child, I had an unexpected encounter with a black rock scorpion began a fascination that has lasted for decades and eventually led to university research, keeping scorpions of my own, and a lifelong appreciation for these remarkable arachnids

The black rock scorpion (Urodacus manicatus) is the first scorpion I ever saw in real life, I was fascinated by it then and am still fascinated by scorpions now.  They are a small and relatively calm scorpion that is native to the east coast of Australia.  

Back then I had seen plenty of scorpions in encyclopedias and other books, and on documentaries, but nothing really prepared me for what it was like in real life.  These small creatures are amazing to watch, I still find it hard to stop watching them.

This article contains affiliate links.  If you purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.  As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

Scorpions glow under UV light

The first scorpion I saw in real life 

I was watching TV one evening as a child and a scorpion ran across the living room floor.  I caught it and put it in a plastic ‘bug catcher’.  From there I kept it for a while, having no concept of how to look after it properly, marvelling at this amazing creature while it ate flies and other insects that I fed to it.  I eventually released this scorpion into the garden, which is a good thing because I can’t imagine it would have survived terribly long in a bug catcher. 

Now when I keep scorpions, even for a few days, I don't use 'bug catchers'.  I now use a small plastic aquarium because it is easy to clean, provides good ventilation, and makes observing the scorpion much easier.  These have a secure lid with ample ventilation.  

I also really like the look of the tiny aquariums that look like a lego block, they should work as they also have a secure lid.  I'll tell you why the lid is super important later in this post.  (Spoiler alert: I had a scorpion escape!)

Back then I was never confident to pick up the scorpion, and I am glad I didn’t because I could have hurt it.  

I was fascinated that they were arachnids, yet I counted ten legs.  It wasn’t until years later that I discovered that the pinchers at the front are not legs, but are pedipalps (pedipalps are almost like enlarged mouth parts).  If you don’t count the pinchers then the number of legs is eight, which makes me more comfortable as it fits in with my understanding of arachnids. 

Urodacus manicatus glows under UV light

My Scorpion Research at University

When I was a university student I got to see more of these delightful arachnids.  As part of "Behavioural and Physiological Ecology" I did an experiment involving scorpions.  A friend took me out to a hill where the scorpions lived, and we collected a few.  

For the experiment we got a light on a timer, put some scorpions in a tank with a thermogradient, attached a thermocouple to the back of each scorpion, and logged how changing light patterns altered their circadian rhythm.  

I forget how long that experiment ran, it was at least a few weeks, if not a few months.  I handled those scorpions every day and grew really attached to them.  At the end of the experiment we released them back on the hill where we collected them.  I was surprisingly sad to see them go. 

Black rock scorpion exploring the aquarium

Baby scorpions as pets

During that time I also kept two baby scorpions that I had also collected from the same spot.  These had nothing to do with the experiment, I thought they were cute and I kept them at home in a small container.  

They were both the same age, and much the same size, one was very shy and the other far more outgoing and interactive.  I used to catch small insects to feed them.  I tried to always keep some tiny insect in there for them to eat, but they couldn’t always find it.  I knew if they were hungry because they would walk around with their tail twitching slightly, so I would catch the insect with tweezers and hold it until a scorpion grabbed it.  I use long feeding tweezers for handling insects safely, I find feeding tweezers to be ideal for feeding scorpions.

One night I left the lid off the container the baby scorpions lived in, and the outgoing one escaped and was never seen by me again.  I missed it, but I still had one.  The one that didn’t escape eventually moulted, which was utterly fascinating.  They get very hungry for a while before moulting, and then stop eating completely.  To shed they squeeze their entire body out of a tiny hole near the mouth.  They have tiny wrists and big pinchers, so to squeeze out of here they are very soft.  

After moulting they need time to harden so must be left alone.  After a few days their exoskeleton hardens and they are ready to eat again. 

I had a bottle cap of water in the container and one day my tiny scorpion fell in and I had to rescue it.  I didn’t know how to pick it up without being stung, I panicked and put my finger in and it grabbed hold of me.  I then carefully lifted it out and let it walk off my finger back into the container.  It didn't sting me.  

After that I kept a damp cotton wool ball in there for water because I was scared it would fall in again when I wasn’t there to save it.  I can’t remember exactly what eventually happened to this little one, it was a lot of years ago, I have a feeling that I released it where I got it from before moving house.  

One really cool thing about all scorpions is that they fluoresce brightly under ultraviolet light.  The exact mechanism behind fluorescing in ultraviolet light is still under debate.  Their exoskeleton contains hyaline, which makes the exoskeleton strong, and is thought to be the part that glows under UV light.  The babies and ones that recently shed their skin don’t really glow, but once the skin hardens they all glow.  Even more remarkably, some fossilised scorpions even fluoresce under ultraviolet light.

I still keep its first exoskeleton safely in a little jar in my drawer.  Even though it has been over twenty years, the exoskeleton still fluoresces under ultraviolet light. 

Why do scorpions glow under UV light? 

Scientists are still debating the exact purpose and mechanism behind this, but compounds in the exoskeleton fluoresce brightly when exposed to ultraviolet light.  This makes scorpions easy to find at night using a cheap UV torch.

I like to use a small UV torch to make scorpions glow, these ultraviolet torches are ideal.  Going out on a warm night with an ultraviolet torch is one of the easiest ways to find scorpions.

While I rarely put the UV torch on my scorpions, some people have a UV torch to use when displaying them.  Prolonged exposure to ultraviolet light reduces fluorescence over time, although the exact reasons behind this are not fully understood.  They will not glow as bright over time if you keep the light on them too much, but every once in a while does not appear to have any adverse effects.  

Scorpions aren't the only natural thing that glows under UV light.  I wrote an earlier post on glowing lichen, while my pictures don't do it justice, some of these lichens glowed bright orange.  I also wrote another post on using these same ultraviolet torches to make various things such as honey, spider webs, and corn stalks glow.  

Baby scorpion exoskeleton under normal light

The same baby scorpion exoskeleton under UV light

Black Rock Scorpion Conservation and Breeding

My fascination with these creatures eventually led me to consider keeping and even breeding them.  I have read that it takes about two or three years for a baby black rock scorpion to reach maturity, which is a long time.  From there it can be difficult getting them to mate and not harm each other.  

Scorpions give birth to live young, after mating the gestation period is about sixteen months, which is a very long time for such a tiny animal.  Sometimes the mother will eat the babies, other times she won’t, sometimes the babies will eat each other, and other times they don’t.  

All of this means it takes several years from a baby scorpion birth until it has a baby scorpion of its own.  This also means most scorpions for sale have been taken from the wild as breeding them sustainably takes a long time and a lot of effort. 

I am told that the black rock scorpion can live up to a dozen years, with eight to ten being pretty common in the wild.  Given how long they live, and how long they take to reach maturity, and how long their gestation is, and that collectors sometimes take every single mature specimen they can find in an area, these scorpions really do need to be raised sustainably rather than taken from the wild. 

I still find black rock scorpions fascinating

A Lifelong Fascination

It has been decades since that first black rock scorpion crossed the living room floor, yet I still stop to watch them whenever I get the chance.  What began as childhood curiosity grew into scientific study and a deep respect for these remarkable arachnids.  Every time I see one scurrying after some prey insect, or glowing under ultraviolet light, I am reminded of the fascination that started all those years ago.

Despite their fearsome reputation, black rock scorpions are calm, fascinating creatures that have taught me a great deal about observing and appreciating the natural world.  Even today, I still keep that tiny exoskeleton in a jar, a small reminder of an animal that sparked a fascination which never really faded.

At some stage I may sell scorpion kits, and possibly captive bred individuals.  If I do, they will appear on my for sale page.  Live animals would likely be offered for local pickup only rather than postage. 

Making Milk Kefir at Home: Simple Instructions From Years of Experience

I have been making milk kefir from traditional heirloom grains since 2010. Over that time I've moved house several times and the kefir grains have come with me.  In my experience, keeping milk kefir going long term is remarkably simple, the biggest challenge is paying for the milk!

To avoid any doubt, milk kefir 'grains' are not grains or seeds of any kind.  Other than the common name of grains they are not similar in any way.  Milk kefir grains are complex and continuously changing mixture of colonies of beneficial bacteria and yeasts growing in a matrix of kefiran that is bobbing around in milk. 

I drink milk kefir and make my breakfast with it, my kids drink milk kefir daily, over that time I have never had any issues with safety, over the years no one has ever fallen ill from consuming my home made milk kefir.  

My milk kefir grains in strainer

What ratio of kefir grains to milk should I use 

There seems to be a lot of confusion on the internet over how much milk kefir grains to use.  

If you're completely new to milk kefir, you may want to read my beginner's guide to milk kefir grains first, where I explain what kefir grains are and how to make kefir at home.

The thing to remember when making kefir is it is not an exact science, the temperature it is kept at is not overly important, and the ratios used don't matter hugely.  As long as you don't use too few grains for the amount of milk, it will still work.

Milk kefir originally comes from nomadic tribes in the Caucasus mountains in Russia.  These people weren't measuring anything precisely, they had kefir grains in a skin bag with mare's milk or yak milk, and they kept kefir going for generations.  A lot of effort was made by the government at the time to obtain the kefir grains, which is a fascinating story.  

Most people use between a quarter of a teaspoon of grains per cup of milk, up to a quarter of a cup of grains (16 teaspoons) per cup of milk.  

I tend to use far more grains than this for no other reason than I have them.  It ferments faster and gets a little more sour.    

If using too few grains for the amount of milk, fermentation takes longer, and you may run into issues with contaminants taking over.  For this reason I suggest not going lower than one teaspoon of kefir grains per cup of milk.  If using more grains, kefir ferments faster.  

I drink kefir plain, I soak raw buckwheat in kefir overnight to consume raw the next morning, sometimes (often around Easter) I make tvorog using kefir.  I like kefir, and some of my kids like it too.

It seems weird that you can leave milk on the bench for days and not have any problems, the living cultures generally create conditions that discourage many unwanted microorganisms from multiplying.  As mentioned, I generally use more grains than most people, this makes it highly unlikely anything undesirable can grow in there.  

Milk kefir I cover with strainer but a cloth also works

Simple milk kefir recipe 

(Note: this can be scaled up as needed)

1) Add anywhere between 1 teaspoon to 1/4 cup of kefir grains to a large glass jar (not metal).

2) Add about a cup of milk to the jar. 

3) Do not put on a lid.  Cover the jar with a cloth or something to keep out dust/insects but lets in the air.  I use a plastic strainer.

4) Leave the jar on the bench out of direct sunlight.  Do not put in the fridge.  

5) Leave for about a day (12-48 hours) to ferment.  The longer it ferments the more sour it becomes.

6) Stir briskly, then strain out the grains.  The strained liquid is your kefir to drink, this can be stored in the fridge for a few days until ready to drink.  

7) Put the grains and a few spoonfuls of liquid kefir in a glass jar.  Repeat from step 2.

One teaspoon of my milk kefir grains

If the kefir separates into curds and whey, that is normal, and it's still fine to drink.  Once you stir (step 6) it all gets mixed together.  

If you go away on holiday you can leave your kefir grains in some milk in the fridge, I recommend putting a lid on the jar while in the fridge.  The grains can survive in the fridge like this for a few weeks.  Being in fridge makes kefir angry, the next few batches will be sour.  

Your grains will multiply.  You can eat them, they are probably better for you than the kefir liquid.  The more kefir grains you add to milk, the faster it ferments.  

The speed of fermentation varies depending on the weather, summer ferments faster than winter.  You can adjust the amount of grains used if you want it more consistent, or you can embrace the seasonal changes.  Either option is fine.  You don't need to keep kefir heated, it was made by nomads living in yurts for generations, they certainly didn't heat their kefir.

Sometimes kefir is more yeasty and the kefir gets lightly bubbly.  Other times there is less yeast activity and the kefir is flat.  Sometimes your grains will be large, other times the grains will be small.  This will all change over time, it is all normal.

Milk kefir ready to be strained

New to kefir? See my beginner's guide to milk kefir grains for step-by-step instructions and troubleshooting tips.

Common Questions

How do I know when milk kefir is ready?

Fresh kefir usually thickens slightly and develops a pleasant tangy smell.  Small pockets of whey may appear around the edges of the jar.  Kefir is ready whenever it tastes right to you. Some people prefer a mild kefir after 12 hours, while others prefer a more sour kefir fermented for longer.  The longer it ferments, the more sour it becomes.

Why did my kefir separate?  Is this a problem?

This is normal, it means your kefir has fermented a bit more than normal.  This happens in warmer weather, or when using more grains.  Just stir before straining.

I have too many kefir grains, can I eat the grains?

Yes, kefir grains are edible.  Some people eat them directly or blend them into smoothies.  Kefir grains can also be fed to poultry.  

Why does fermentation speed change?

Temperature, grain quantity, and milk type all affect fermentation speed.  Don't expect it to be uniform, it will change with the seasons.

Milk kefir grains in a jar

Where to get heirloom milk kefir grains

If you'd like to start making your own kefir, you'll need a healthy culture of milk kefir grains.  

My kefir grains have been made for a few years using A2 milk.  My grains will work in any cow, sheep milk, goat milk, or milk from any other mammal - the taste will change depending on what type of milk you use.  I've never tried them in any plant based milk.   

I sell a decent amount of kefir grains, many places only sell 1 teaspoon

My kefir grains usually multiply faster than I can use them, so I occasionally have extras available on my my for sale page along with other fermenting cultures, perennial vegetable plants, culinary herbs, and seeds I offer.  

Most sellers provide around a teaspoon of grains.  I sell closer to a quarter cup of grains, which gives beginners a larger, more active culture and makes it easier to start producing kefir immediately and helps ensure beginners are likely to succeed. 

How to Grow Milk Kefir Grains at Home (Beginner Guide)

What are milk kefir grains

Milk kefir grains are a living culture used to ferment milk into a tangy, drinkable yoghurt-like product. Milk kefir grains are soft, white, irregular clusters that resemble tiny cauliflower florets or small clouds (or, as my youngest son says, they look like tiny brains).  They are not related to cereal grains despite the name.

They grow and reproduce over time when kept in the right conditions and can be maintained indefinitely with regular feeding.  Being a mesophilic culture, they can ferment at room temperature and do not require heaters or incubators. 

Milk kefir grains are one of the easiest live cultures to maintain at home once you understand how to grow and feed them correctly.  I have been keeping kefir grains in my home kitchen for a number of years, and they are one of the more reliable and low-maintenance live cultures once established.  

Fermenting kefir at home using heirloom grains is generally far cheaper than buying it from a supermarket. Once established and properly maintained, kefir grains can be kept going for many years and regularly propagated.

Kefir made from live grains typically contains a wider diversity of microorganisms than most commercially produced kefir products or powdered starter cultures.

The following methods are based on my own long-term use of kefir grains in a home kitchen setting.

Milk kefir grains after straining, ready for a fresh batch of milk

What you need

To get started making kefir at home, you only need a few basic items:

• Milk kefir grains 
• Fresh milk (cow, goat, or sheep milk all work)
• A glass jar
• A breathable cover (cloth or loose lid)
• A plastic or wooden spoon
• A strainer

A note on equipment

Some of the equipment mentioned in this post may include Amazon affiliate links. If you purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. 

Glass jars (fermentation base)

Many people (including myself) simply reuse glass jars that originally contained pickles or jam.   

Fermentation jars designed for home culturing can make the process more consistent, especially if you plan to keep kefir long term.  Fermentation jars also tend to look a lot nicer than using an old pickle jar like I do, and avoid any risk of residual flavours from previous contents.

A standard wide-mouth jar is usually sufficient, but thicker glass fermentation jars are more durable if you plan to keep kefir going over the long term.

• Ball Wide Mouth Mason Jars (16oz or 32oz) - commonly used for kefir and other ferments
• Kilner Glass Fermentation Jars - heavier duty option with a more traditional fermentation design

Straining equipment

Straining is the step that most people underestimate. A good strainer makes a noticeable difference.

• OXO Good Grips Stainless Steel Fine Mesh Strainer (3-inch or 4-inch) - very commonly used for kefir and other small-batch fermenting
• Bellemain Stainless Steel Fine Mesh Strainer Set - useful if you want multiple sizes for different batches
• Plastic fine mesh strainer set - useful as it has multiple sizes and good if you do not want to use metal around your kefir grains

Plastic strainers work, but stainless steel tends to last far longer and can be easier to clean.

Optional starter kits (everything-in-one setup)

If you prefer starting with a complete set rather than collecting items individually:

• Kilner Glass Kefir Jar Set - purpose built system with strainer lid and beechwood measuring spoon
• Kefir Starter Kit (various Amazon listings) - usually includes fermentation jar, strainer, sometimes grains

These are not essential, but they can make the first few batches more consistent and provide confidence if you are new to fermentation.  

Important: when starting out, do not use 'starter culture' or any dried kefir culture, these don't work the same.  When starting out making kefir at home, you need to use kefir grains.  These are the easiest for a beginner to use, with the lowest chance of anything going wrong (which is important when dealing with food), they can live indefinitely, and usually contain significantly greater diversity of probiotic and other beneficial microorganisms and generally boast a higher number of colony forming units. 

Grain quantity affects how quickly kefir ferments.  For a more detailed discussion, see my article on how much milk kefir grain to use.

Milk kefir grains, most use between 1 teaspoon to 1/4 cup per cup of milk

Basic method - how to make milk kefir at home

1. Place the kefir grains into a clean glass jar
2. Add fresh milk (roughly 1 cup of milk per 1–16 teaspoons of grains)
3. Cover the jar with a cloth or loose lid
4. Leave at room temperature (around 18–25°C is ideal)
5. Allow to ferment for 24–48 hours depending on temperature
6. When the milk thickens and smells slightly sour, it is ready
7. Strain the grains out and transfer them to fresh milk

The finished kefir can be consumed immediately or stored in the fridge.  

Straining and handling the grains

One of the key steps in maintaining kefir is separating the grains from the finished liquid.

A fine strainer makes this much easier.  I prefer a mesh strainer that is not too fine, otherwise the thicker kefir can block it.

Useful tools for this step:

• Fine mesh strainer (plastic or stainless steel)
• Bowl or jug for catching the finished kefir
• Funnel (optional, for bottling)

A simple strainer and jar setup is usually enough, but some people prefer dedicated fermentation kits that include everything in one set.

Ongoing care

I started making milk kefir using grains in 2010.  I can confidently say that I find milk kefir simple to keep going long term, and they are one of the lowest maintenance ferments I can think of.  Kefir grains do not require much maintenance, but they do best with regular feeding.

If left too long without fresh milk, they will slow down or become inactive. In normal use, they will continue to grow and divide gradually.

If you are not using them for a short period, they can be stored in the fridge in fresh milk for around 1–2 weeks.

Temperature and seasonal effects

Fermentation speed changes with temperature:

• Warm weather: 12-24 hours
• Cool weather: 24-48 hours or longer

In cooler months, I generally leave them slightly longer before straining.

Optional upgrades once you are established

Once kefir becomes part of a routine, a few extra tools can make the process easier:

• Glass bottles for secondary fermentation (slightly fizzy kefir)
• Dedicated fermentation jars with breathable lids
• Thermometer strips for consistent jar temperature monitoring - I've never used thermometer strips, nor could I change the temperature if it was wrong, but lots of beginners seem to like them

These are not necessary, but they help if you want more consistent results.

Signs your kefir is healthy

Healthy grains will usually:

• Increase slowly in size over time
• Produce consistent thickening of milk
• Develop a clean, slightly sour smell after fermentation

If the culture weakens, it is usually due to long gaps between feeds or extreme temperatures.

Kefir Grain Reproduction and Sharing

Kefir grains naturally multiply when kept in good condition. Once established, they can be split and shared or stored as backup cultures.

This makes kefir grains a long-term renewable culture when properly maintained. 

Homemade milk kefir fermenting from live kefir grains

Common mistakes when starting out

• Leaving grains too long without feeding
• Putting grains in the fridge too often (cold can make some strains go dormant)
• Using airtight lids during primary fermentation
• Overheating in summer months

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use UHT or long-life milk or low fat milk to make kefir?

Yes, you can use UHT milk or low fat, but the results can be slightly different.  Fresh milk generally produces thicker, more consistent kefir.  UHT milk tends to work, but the grains may take a few batches to adjust if they are used to fresh milk.  Low fat milk usually works, but will taste a little different.

How long do milk kefir grains last?

Milk kefir grains can last indefinitely if they are cared for properly.  As long as they are regularly fed with fresh milk and kept at reasonable temperatures, they will continue to grow and reproduce over time. 

Why is my kefir separating into layers?

This is usually normal.  Separation into a thicker curd layer and a watery whey layer generally means the kefir has fermented for too long or the temperature is a bit warm.  It is still safe to use.  You can simply stir it back together or shorten the fermentation time next batch.

Can kefir grains die?

Yes, but it usually takes extreme conditions as kefir grains are quite resilient and have been used for a long time in traditional fermentation.  Kefir grains can weaken or die if they are:

• left without fresh milk for too long
• exposed to very high temperatures
• repeatedly contaminated or neglected over time

In most normal home situations, they are quite resilient and can recover even after periods of stress.

How much milk should I use per batch?

A common starting ratio is about 1 cup of milk per 1 to 16 teaspoons of kefir grains.  I tend to use far more grains than this.  You can adjust this depending on how fast you want fermentation to occur.  More grains = faster fermentation.

Can I use metal utensils with kefir grains?

Yes, brief contact with stainless steel is generally fine.  Avoid fermenting kefir in reactive metals (like aluminium or copper), as acidity can affect them. Stainless steel is generally safe for short contact (such as straining) but not ideal for long fermentation.  Most modern kefir keepers use stainless steel strainers without issues.  However, many people still prefer plastic or wooden utensils for routine handling.

Why do my kefir grains look smaller or not growing?

Grain size can fluctuate seasonally depending on milk type, temperature, and feeding schedule.  Growth is usually slow and not always obvious day to day.  If fermentation is still happening normally, the grains are usually fine.

How do I store kefir grains if I need a break?

If you are not making kefir for a short period, you can store the grains in fresh milk in the fridge for a week or two.  For longer breaks, the milk should be changed occasionally to keep them healthy.  If they are in the fridge for a long time, it may take them a while to wake up and work normally again.

Milk kefir grains - look like little clouds

Is homemade milk kefir stronger than store-bought kefir?

Homemade kefir made from live grains typically contains a wider range of microorganisms compared to most commercial kefir or powdered starter cultures.  The strength and flavour also vary depending on fermentation time and conditions, which you have greater control over when fermenting at home.

Notes from growing milk kefir grains at home

In my experience, milk kefir grains are one of the most reliable live cultures for home use.  They tend to adapt well over time and can recover even after periods of neglect, provided they are returned to fresh milk.

Both the temperature, and the amount of grain used affects how quickly kefir ferments.  For a more detailed discussion, see my article on how much milk kefir grain I tend to use. 

Kefir Grain Availability

Milk kefir grains are available from time to time as part of my live cultures listing, usually in small starter portions suitable for home propagation.  Many suppliers sell very small starter portions, often around 1 teaspoon.  While these can work, I find beginners usually have more success starting with a larger quantity of healthy grains.  I include a decent amount of grains, closer to 1/4 cup of grains (or 16 teaspoons) that way the beginner is far more likely to succeed.

Milk kefir grains are one of the simplest and most forgiving fermentation cultures for beginners. With only milk, a jar, and a small quantity of healthy grains, you can maintain a continuous supply of homemade kefir for years.  Once established, the grains multiply naturally, making kefir one of the most economical fermented foods you can produce at home.

Perennial Vegetables, Plants, Seeds & Kefir for Sale – June 2026

For Sale: June 2026

I grow a range of perennial vegetables, edible plants, herbs, fruiting plants, aquatic plants, and a small selection of ornamental plants from my home garden in Australia.  Everything is grown organically by me and in small seasonal batches.  Most plants are available in small quantities only and some items may sell out during the month.

Availability changes through the year depending on growth cycles and dormancy.

If something is not listed below, it is not currently available this month.  

Pink flesh potatoes

How to Order

To order, please email me with the items you would like:

damien_beaumont [at] yahoo [dot] com [dot] au

(Replace [at] with @ and [dot] with .) 

I will reply with total cost and payment details.  Postage is sent on Mondays after payment clears.

Postage

• $12 standard plant and item postage
• $3.50 seeds only

For Sale: June 2026 

This month’s list includes perennial vegetable plants, edible perennial herbs, berry plants, heirloom and open-pollinated seeds, aquatic plants, and live cultures, all organically grown in my home garden in the Canberra region of Australia.

Bare Rooted Perennial Plants – $5 each (unless stated)

Perennial Onions & Alliums

• Babington leek
• Everlasting onions
• Tree onions

Other Perennial Vegetables

• Asparagus (Purple)
• Asparagus (Precoce D’Argenteuil)
• Chinese Water Chestnut ($3 per small corm)
• Duck potato ($3 per small tuber)
• Jerusalem Artichoke ($3 per tuber)
• Pink Flesh Potato (sold out for now)

Culinary Edible Herbs

• Brahmi/water hyssop  
• Jekka's thyme
• Lavender mint 
• Lemongrass
• Lime balm
• Peppermint
• Pineapple sage
• Rosemary - blue flowering
• Sweet violet
• Vietnamese coriander 
• Vietnamese fish mint (currently dormant for winter and will reshoot in spring)
• Variegated water parsley
• Green water parsley (more vigorous stronger tasting version of the variegated form)  
• Watercress 
• Willow herb

Berries & Fruit

• Pineberry strawberry
• Hokowase strawberry
• Virginian strawberry
• Attila alpine strawberry
• Elderberry
• Jostaberry
• Pomegranate 

Aquatic Plants

• Azolla – $3 per scoop
• Duckweed – $3 per scoop

Heirloom and Open-Pollinated Seeds – $4 per packet (unless stated)

A selection of heirloom, open-pollinated, and home-bred vegetable seeds suitable for seasonal growing in Australian conditions, including rare and unusual vegetable seeds.

• Immali corn (my own sweet corn breeding project producing purple/pink and white kernels)
• Purple hot mustard
• Purple asparagus
• Tomato Tommy Toe
• Tomato Reisetomate 
• Tomato Snow White
  
• Tomato Speckled Roman
• Senposai
• Hon Tsai Tai / Choy Sum (purple stem) 
• Black raspberry seed (not plants) (note: needs minimum of 3 months cold wet stratification to germinate)
• Muscari grape hyacinth - packet of seeds (not bulbs) 

Living Ancient Cultures - Kefir & Ferments - $5 

• Milk kefir grains – approx 1/4 cup (significantly larger quantity than most starter packs)
• Kombucha SCOBY 

Ornamentals/Succulents/Houseplants

• Aloe vera - small plants $5 
• String of pearls succulent - plant $5, cuttings $2
• String of beans succulent (from Coober Pedy) - plant $5, cuttings  $2
• Red jelly bean succulent  $5, cuttings $2
• Succulent - Plectranthus (unnamed variety) $5 
  
• African violet leaf cutting – 'New Hampshire' $3
• African violet leaf cutting – double light blue (unnamed variety) $3

Other Items

• Candle mould “skep” - $10
• Candle mould “owl” - $10

African Violet New Hampshire

For photographs, botanical names, growing notes, and detailed descriptions of these plants, see my older catalogue page.  

Please note my catalogue page has a lot of things not currently in season/not currently for sale.  The only things I have for sale this month are listed in this blog post above. 

Creating Patterns on African Violet Flowers with Cold Water Damage

Last winter I noticed some African violet flower damage caused by condensation on a cold kitchen window.  The flowers that were close to the glass developed pale markings and damaged patches on their petals.  After seeing this, I wondered whether carefully applying cold water could create decorative patterns on African violet flowers without seriously harming the plant.  Perhaps I could carefully apply cold water and make interesting decorative patterns (or even write something simple) on the petals in a similar way that I can tattoo an apple using sunlight. 

I keep African violets on my kitchen windowsill, they flower a lot during the year.  I love the look of African violets, they are such an underrated house plant.

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I borrowed a fine tipped paint brush from my kids, got some cold water, and carefully painted stripes and patterns on a few flowers.  My kids already had little art brushes, otherwise I would have bought some nice ones like these.  I had no idea if this would work, but hoped the cold water would damage the flowers just enough, but not too much.  I tried to keep everything reasonably symmetrical.

As it turns out, this kind of flower art worked well and looked good.  The photos below are from my winter flowers that I painted with cold water. 

African violet flower damage from cold

Pattern created on African violet flower using a fine paintbrush and cold water

I wasn't as neat as I could have been, and had a few accidents and spilled drips here and there.  Some flowers were also too close to the window and got additional damage from condensation. 

I think the flowers I did paint with water looked nice.  I tried to keep everything roughly symmetrical.  It was hard to see where I had painted, and I didn't know how much water to use.  Nor did I know if this could even work the way I hoped it would.  

How to Create Patterns on African Violet Flowers

1. Choose a plant with many blooms.
2. Use a fine paintbrush.
3. Dip the brush in cold water.
4. Paint a pattern onto the petals.
5. Wait several days for the markings to appear.
6. Observe the results.

African violet flower painted with cold water

Frequently Asked Questions

Can cold water damage African violet flowers?

Yes. In my experiment, even small amounts of cold water caused visible markings and discoloration on the flower petals.

Does cold water hurt African violet plants?

I only applied water to the petals rather than the leaves or crown. The flowers aged more quickly, but I did not notice obvious damage to the plant itself.

Can you create patterns on African violet flowers?

It appears possible to create simple patterns by carefully applying cold water to the petals with a fine brush.

It is almost winter here, and I have a few African violets that should flower over the cooler weather.  If I remember, and if any are blooming at the right time, I plan to try this again.  

I grow most of my African violets in self wicking pots, these ones look nice, are about 8cm across and are perfect for African violets.  

Given how many flowers this variety of African violet pumps out, I thought I could risk a few blooms.  I probably wouldn't try this on a less vigorous variety.  In case you are considering giving this a try yourself, you need to know that the flowers that have been damaged don't last as long as the untouched ones.  

This variety produces lots of flowers

I have no real idea if this is bad for the plants.  Given I am only damaging the flower petals, I assume it probably isn't overly bad for them.  Just in case I am wrong, I only plan to do this to a few flowers on each stalk at most.

I also learned a bit about how much water to use.  It turns out, as long as the water is cold, and the day is cold, you need very little water to do lasting damage to the petals.  

This was a surprisingly successful experiment. While the cold water probably shortened the life of the affected blooms, it also created interesting patterns and allowed me to make intentional flower art.  I plan to continue experimenting this winter to see how much detail can be added to African violet petals.  I now wonder how detailed I can make my flower art.  Perhaps this winter I will try to draw some love hearts, or write my kids' names.  

If you are interested in giving this a go, it is best to use a variety that produces a lot of blooms.  You may find a good one at a garden center, or I sell leaf cuttings through my for sale page.

Growing Black Forbidden Rice in Pots: Flooded vs Dry Soil Comparison

In this experiment I compared forbidden black rice plants (Oryza sativa) grown:

• in shallow water versus dry soil
• in shallow water with and without azolla
• in full sun versus part shade

Key findings from this rice growing experiment:

• Rice in shallow water initially grew faster than dryland rice
• Rice grown with azolla produced more tillers and flowered earlier
• Full sun performed much better than part shade - no real surprise here
• Flooded rice suffered significantly fewer pest problems - a real win for organic growing
• Small pots likely reduced final grain production

The flooded rice with azolla grew faster, flowered earlier, and suffered fewer pest problems than the dryland rice.

This year I grew some forbidden black rice plants (Oryza sativa).  I don't know what I am doing when growing rice, and I am certainly not in their preferred climate, so it was all a bit of an experiment. 

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Forbidden rice not yet ripe

There is not much advice available for backyard rice growers, so I had to largely work this out myself which is why I am writing this blog post.  

I had a few plants so thought I would do some comparisons, see what works better for me, and share the results.  Hopefully someone finds this useful.  

If nothing else, recording this here is useful for me in future years to remember what worked and what didn't.

Rice growing comparison

Rice plants comparison

Dry land rice compared to flooded rice

I am told that growing this variety of rice in shallow water is done mostly to control pests and weeds, and this variety of rice performs much the same in shallow water as it does in the vegetable garden.  Strangely I also read that shallow water grown rice tends to provide larger crops. 

I divided some of my rice plants, I planted one in a pot of soil in shallow water, the other is in a pot of soil.  Unfortunately this test was not overly great.  The soil used was the same, but the colour of the pot is different, as is the shape, and its volume, all of which may have an impact on growth of plants.  

I also had a few other rice plants in soil, and a few others in shallow water.  Some are in full sun, others part shade.  These two plants are growing side by side, and I figure it is easier to take photos of the same two plants time and again for comparison.

I grew them in ice cream containers.  This worked, but meant I had to use pots that were too small.  Had I used a fun plastic wisky barrel planter like these I could keep the pots sitting in a few centimetres of water during the warmer months and be able to use larger pots (and get larger yields).

I took the first photo on 20 November 2025.  Both plants were reasonably similar in size and health.  

20 November 

While early, the growth after 6 days was noticeable.  These were grown in soil, the soil had a lot of weed seeds, and I was still getting on top of that at this stage.  

I pull out the weeds, and leave them on the soil surface to die and break down releasing nutrients back to the soil.  The one in shallow water did not have issues with grass and weed seeds germinating, the water took care of that for me.  From that perspective, shallow water grown rice was easier.

26 November 

Another week later, and it became pretty clear which plant was performing better in the short term.  

The plant in shallow water with azolla is noticeably taller.  The leaves are darker green, and the stem has more black colouration.  This is black forbidden rice, the black means it is high in anthocyanin.   

At this stage neither started tillering, and they were both far from flowering stage.  There was still a long time left to run with this little experiment but it was interesting to see such a dramatic difference so early.

6 December 

Black rice in shallow water with azolla

Black rice growing in soil

After another week the water grown rice was racing ahead.  It was too early to know if this would have any impact on the vigour of plants later in the season or the grain harvest at the end of the season.  

14 December 2025 

After a few months, in March 2026, I took the next set of comparison photos.  The situation had changed since the initial comparison photos.

The plant grown in shallow water had about 3 large tillers, and the soil grown had about 5 large tillers.  This may have been because the dry soil grown rice had a larger amount of soil, or it may be because this variety of rice performs better under dryland conditions, I don't know.  I only count the larger tillers as they can produce grain, they also had a number of smaller tillers.  

Interestingly, the water grown plant flowered and produced seed over a month earlier than the soil grown plant.  I'm not sure if there is enough heat left in the season for the soil grown plant to produce seed before the first frosts come.

Azolla comparison March 2026

It is noteworthy that I had azolla floating on the water in that first comparison.  If one grew better or worse than the other it may be due to the shallow water, or it may be due to the azolla.  

As I didn't know how much impact azolla would have, I also grew some rice plants side by side in shallow water, with and without azolla.  I only have a small number of plants, and limited space, so was not able to have many replicates of each.   

Growing rice in shallow water with and without azolla 

I divided two similar sized rice plants on 29 November 2025.  The one without azolla was perhaps a little larger, and stronger.  It also was starting to tiller.  These two were as close in size and health as I could find.  While not perfectly identical, they were near enough.

I planted them in identical pots, in the same soil, and placed them in identical containers, and added water.  This comparison was better than the first one as the conditions for this were as identical as I could get them. 

The rice plant on the right is slightly larger - 29 November

I left these pots so the soil could settle for a while, both had roots under water and the leaves were in the air.  

Once they had settled in, I increased the depth of water, and added some azolla to one container.  I added quite a bit of azolla so I wouldn't have to wait long before it covered the water surface.  I didn't need to start with so much azolla, the azolla covered the water surface over the next few days, the growth rate of azolla is remarkable.  

One with azolla seems slightly smaller at the start

Once the plants grew a little I increased the depth of water to the top of the container.  From here I tried to keep the water topped up in both containers.  The water evaporates fast over summer, the one that did not have azolla evaporated much faster.  I did my best to keep both containers topped up.

You will notice the water without azolla also had a few algae blooms.  The water turned green and soupy for a while.  I don't think these blooms are great for plants, and I didn't notice many tiny things swimming among the algae.  When I parted the azolla the water underneath appeared clear and was teeming with tiny life.  While I don't know if this impacts the productivity of the rice plants, aesthetically having azolla and lots of tiny life is nicer.

Rice in shallow water - 06 December

Rice in shallow water with azolla - 06 December

Algae in the water that without azolla

Both plants similar size at this stage

One benefit to rice from azolla is that azolla sequesters nitrogen from the atmosphere, and puts it in a form that can be taken up by other plants.  This type of nitrogen fertiliser would be otherwise expensive to apply, where azolla does this organically and for free.  

I read a study https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC12149377/ indicating azolla has more benefit to rice than simple nitrogen fertilisation, apparently it also acts as a 'biostimulant'.  We are only beginning to unravel this interaction, but it sounds like azolla is more promising than simply being an organic and free fertiliser.  

In that study, growing azolla with rice resulted in the accumulation of small peptides, lipids, and carbohydrates in rice roots, as well as flavonoid glycosides and carbohydrates in rice leaves.  Early research suggests that this may make the rice plants more vigorous and higher yielding.  That early research indicates not only does azolla increase the amount of rice grain produced, it may also make the grain more nutritious.  More research needs to be conducted in this field.

I am getting off track here, time to get back to the rice plant growing comparison.  About two weeks later, the algae bloom had cleared from the water, and both plants had grown noticeably.  The rice grown with azolla was taller, more lush, and beginning to develop more tillers.  It was still very early in this comparison.

Rice plants with and without azolla 19 December

This plant is growing well, but not as well as the one with azolla

Clear water, lots of growth, it is going well

Larger and healthier looking plant

The water without azolla eventually cleared, and stayed clear for the remainder of the growing season.  The other plant had azolla that grew into a thick azolla mat, the lower levels breaking down and releasing nutrients while the azolla on the surface continued to grow.

I had some issues with tiny birds getting into the greenhouse and messing with the azolla.  I don't know if they were eating it, or bathing in the water and splashing the azolla out, or searching for feed under it.  I made no attempt to stop them, I think having fairy wrens come into the greenhouse isn't a bad thing as they eat a lot of small insect pests.

In March 2026 I took the following comparison photos.  The azolla grown rice had 6 large tillers, while the non-azolla grown rice had 3 large tillers.  Each of these tillers could have eventually flowered and produced seed.

It is noteworthy that the plants with azolla had more tillers, and flowered several weeks before the ones grown in water without azolla.  

Azolla rice comparison March 2026

Shade grown rice compared to full sun

I had a few pots of rice growing in full sun, and I had some in part shade.  I wondered if in small pots perhaps rice would over heat and might do better under a little shade to keep the roots cooler.    

I didn't persist with this for very long as it became evident that rice growing in full sun was far larger and healthier than rice in part shade.  After a few weeks I moved the shade grown rice into more sun, and they almost caught up to the other plants.

I don't have any photos of the shade grown rice.  They were just small seedlings, they grew well once I moved them to an area with more sun. 

Rice seed heads forming in autumn

Rice Plant Growing Conclusion

While I got some seed from my rice growing experiment, all my rice plants struggled to produce a decent sized crop this year, I think there are a few reasons behind this.  

This summer, apart from a few days of extreme heat, was largely mild and dry.  We had very few tomatoes ripen this year, presumably due to lack of consistent heat.  I have a feeling if we had more consistent heat plus a bit more rain I may have been able to produce a better rice crop.  

The pots I grew the rice in were far too small.  If they had larger pots, they may have been better able to mature.  

I initially worried that the rice plants may not get enough sun in the greenhouse, but this didn't seem to be an issue.  The greenhouse grown plants didn't perform any worse than rice plants grown outside in full sun. 

Rice growing outside in full sun - not part of the comparison

When rice was grown on dryland, it initially performed worse than the submerged rice plants.  As time went on, the dryland rice caught up and grew better than the flooded rice - but dryland rice also had issues with pests. 

I had a large pot of soil with several rice plants that I did not take many photos of as I had no similar water grown comparison, I have a photo below of the end result.  

This rice was all killed by pests

Every rice plant in this pot was damaged by pests, and over time they all died.  It seems in my garden that slaters/wood lice have a taste for rice plants, and like to eat out their base.  I did not lose any of the flooded rice to pests, nor did I notice any pest damage to them at all.  In this sense, the flooded rice was better as it suffered no pest damage in my garden where everything is grown organically.  

Home grown rice performs best in full sun.  Growing in part shade did not do well.  This was not a great surprise.

Home grown rice in shallow water performed better with azolla than it did without azolla.  This was to be expected as it agrees with results from much research into growing rice with azolla.

 

Rice not yet ready

I only had a small number of plants this year, so this may be coincidence, but all of the rice grown in shallow water flowered and produced grain weeks before the dryland grown rice.  I expected the dryland rice to perform better as I had them in in pots with a larger volume of soil, but for unknown reasons they are the last to produce grain.

The rice plants grown in shallow water with azolla were the first to flower, followed several weeks later by the shallow water rice without azolla, while the dryland grown rice only began to flower in late April.  

Forbidden black rice seed heads forming

I am told that this rice is perennial if protected over winter.  I will try to protect some and see if any survives.  I will have some in shallow water (to insulate against temperature swings), and some in damp soil, and see how they go.  

Frosts are on the way, so I have moved all my rice plants into the greenhouse.  My rice plants are all yellowing from the cold.  I'm not sure if they will survive my winter.  Not everything survives winter in the greenhouse as it is still very cold in there over night, but it is worth a try.

  

Rice plants turning yellow in cooler weather

While my preference is for the rice plants to survive winter and to grow as perennials, I will also try to collect and store some seed to replant in Spring.  They produced hundred of seeds, so saving some of this shouldn't be an issue. 

Next year, if I grow black forbidden rice again, I plan to grow it in a few buckets of soil, or in large pots in buckets of water, similar to how I grow Chinese water chestnuts in buckets.  Given a larger amount of soil I think these plants would perform much better.