Wednesday, 3 June 2026

How to Grow Milk Kefir Grains at Home (Beginner Guide)

What are milk kefir grains

Milk kefir grains are a living culture used to ferment milk into a tangy, drinkable yoghurt-like product. Milk kefir grains are soft, white, irregular clusters that resemble tiny cauliflower florets or small clouds (or, as my youngest son says, they look like tiny brains).  They are not related to cereal grains despite the name.

They grow and reproduce over time when kept in the right conditions and can be maintained indefinitely with regular feeding.  Being a mesophilic culture, they can ferment at room temperature and do not require heaters or incubators. 

Milk kefir grains are one of the easiest live cultures to maintain at home once you understand how to grow and feed them correctly.  I have been keeping kefir grains in my home kitchen for a number of years, and they are one of the more reliable and low-maintenance live cultures once established.  

Fermenting kefir at home using heirloom grains is generally far cheaper than buying it from a supermarket. Once established and properly maintained, kefir grains can be kept going for many years and regularly propagated.

Kefir made from live grains typically contains a wider diversity of microorganisms than most commercially produced kefir products or powdered starter cultures.

The following methods are based on my own long-term use of kefir grains in a home kitchen setting.

milk kefir changes with the seasons
Milk kefir grains after straining, ready for a fresh batch of milk

What you need

To get started making kefir at home, you only need a few basic items:

  • Milk kefir grains 
  • Fresh milk (cow, goat, or sheep milk all work)
  • A glass jar
  • A breathable cover (cloth or loose lid)
  • A plastic or wooden spoon
  • A strainer

A note on equipment

Some of the equipment mentioned in this post may include Amazon affiliate links. If you purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. 

Glass jars (fermentation base)

Many people (including myself) simply reuse glass jars that originally contained pickles or jam.   

Fermentation jars designed for home culturing can make the process more consistent, especially if you plan to keep kefir long term.  Fermentation jars also tend to look a lot nicer than using an old pickle jar like I do, and avoid any risk of residual flavours from previous contents.

A standard wide-mouth jar is usually sufficient, but thicker glass fermentation jars are more durable if you plan to keep kefir going over the long term.

Straining equipment

Straining is the step that most people underestimate. A good strainer makes a noticeable difference.

Plastic strainers work, but stainless steel tends to last far longer and can be easier to clean.

Optional starter kits (everything-in-one setup)

If you prefer starting with a complete set rather than collecting items individually:

These are not essential, but they can make the first few batches more consistent and provide confidence if you are new to fermentation.  

Important: when starting out, do not use 'starter culture' or any dried kefir culture, these don't work the same.  When starting out making kefir at home, you need to use kefir grains.  These are the easiest for a beginner to use, with the lowest chance of anything going wrong (which is important when dealing with food), they can live indefinitely, and usually contain significantly greater diversity of probiotic and other beneficial microorganisms and generally boast a higher number of colony forming units

Grain quantity affects how quickly kefir ferments.  For a more detailed discussion, see my article on how much milk kefir grain to use.

Beginners guide to making milk kefir at home
Milk kefir grains, most use between 1 teaspoon to 1/4 cup per cup of milk

Basic method - how to make milk kefir at home

  1. Place the kefir grains into a clean glass jar
  2. Add fresh milk (roughly 1 cup of milk per 1–16 teaspoons of grains)
  3. Cover the jar with a cloth or loose lid
  4. Leave at room temperature (around 18–25°C is ideal)
  5. Allow to ferment for 24–48 hours depending on temperature
  6. When the milk thickens and smells slightly sour, it is ready
  7. Strain the grains out and transfer them to fresh milk

The finished kefir can be consumed immediately or stored in the fridge.

Straining and handling the grains

One of the key steps in maintaining kefir is separating the grains from the finished liquid.

A fine strainer makes this much easier. I prefer a mesh strainer that is not too fine, otherwise the thicker kefir can block it.

Useful tools for this step:

  • Fine mesh strainer (plastic or stainless steel)
  • Bowl or jug for catching the finished kefir
  • Funnel (optional, for bottling)

A simple strainer and jar setup is usually enough, but some people prefer dedicated fermentation kits that include everything in one set.

Ongoing care

I started making milk kefir using grains in 2010.  I can confidently say that I find milk kefir simple to keep going long term, and they are one of the lowest maintenance ferments I can think of.  Kefir grains do not require much maintenance, but they do best with regular feeding.

If left too long without fresh milk, they will slow down or become inactive. In normal use, they will continue to grow and divide gradually.

If you are not using them for a short period, they can be stored in the fridge in fresh milk for around 1–2 weeks.

Temperature and seasonal effects

Fermentation speed changes with temperature:

  • Warm weather: 12-24 hours
  • Cool weather: 24-48 hours or longer

In cooler months, I generally leave them slightly longer before straining.

Optional upgrades once you are established

Once kefir becomes part of a routine, a few extra tools can make the process easier:

  • Glass bottles for secondary fermentation (slightly fizzy kefir)
  • Dedicated fermentation jars with breathable lids
  • Thermometer strips for consistent jar temperature monitoring - I've never used thermometer strips, nor could I change the temperature if it was wrong, but lots of beginners seem to like them

These are not necessary, but they help if you want more consistent results.

Signs your kefir is healthy

Healthy grains will usually:

  • Increase slowly in size over time
  • Produce consistent thickening of milk
  • Develop a clean, slightly sour smell after fermentation

If the culture weakens, it is usually due to long gaps between feeds or extreme temperatures.

Kefir Grain Reproduction and Sharing

Kefir grains naturally multiply when kept in good condition. Once established, they can be split and shared or stored as backup cultures.

This makes kefir grains a long-term renewable culture when properly maintained. 


Fermenting milk kefir at home is simple and cheap
Homemade milk kefir fermenting from live kefir grains

Common mistakes when starting out

  • Leaving grains too long without feeding
  • Putting grains in the fridge too often (cold can make some strains go dormant)
  • Using airtight lids during primary fermentation
  • Overheating in summer months

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use UHT or long-life milk or low fat milk to make kefir?

Yes, you can use UHT milk or low fat, but the results can be slightly different.  Fresh milk generally produces thicker, more consistent kefir.  UHT milk tends to work, but the grains may take a few batches to adjust if they are used to fresh milk.  Low fat milk usually works, but will taste a little different.

How long do milk kefir grains last?

Milk kefir grains can last indefinitely if they are cared for properly.  As long as they are regularly fed with fresh milk and kept at reasonable temperatures, they will continue to grow and reproduce over time. 

Why is my kefir separating into layers?

This is usually normal.  Separation into a thicker curd layer and a watery whey layer generally means the kefir has fermented for too long or the temperature is a bit warm.  It is still safe to use.  You can simply stir it back together or shorten the fermentation time next batch.

Can kefir grains die?

Yes, but it usually takes extreme conditions as kefir grains are quite resilient and have been used for a long time in traditional fermentation.  Kefir grains can weaken or die if they are:

  • left without fresh milk for too long
  • exposed to very high temperatures
  • repeatedly contaminated or neglected over time

In most normal home situations, they are quite resilient and can recover even after periods of stress.

How much milk should I use per batch?

A common starting ratio is about 1 cup of milk per 1 to 16 teaspoons of kefir grains.  I tend to use far more grains than this.  You can adjust this depending on how fast you want fermentation to occur.  More grains = faster fermentation.

Can I use metal utensils with kefir grains?

Yes, brief contact with stainless steel is generally fine.  Avoid fermenting kefir in reactive metals (like aluminium or copper), as acidity can affect them. Stainless steel is generally safe for short contact (such as straining) but not ideal for long fermentation.  Most modern kefir keepers use stainless steel strainers without issues.  However, many people still prefer plastic or wooden utensils for routine handling.

Why do my kefir grains look smaller or not growing?

Grain size can fluctuate seasonally depending on milk type, temperature, and feeding schedule.  Growth is usually slow and not always obvious day to day.  If fermentation is still happening normally, the grains are usually fine.

How do I store kefir grains if I need a break?

If you are not making kefir for a short period, you can store the grains in fresh milk in the fridge for a week or two.  For longer breaks, the milk should be changed occasionally to keep them healthy.  If they are in the fridge for a long time, it may take them a while to wake up and work normally again.

Milk kefir grains - the live culture used to ferment milk into kefir
Milk kefir grains - look like little clouds

Is homemade milk kefir stronger than store-bought kefir?

Homemade kefir made from live grains typically contains a wider range of microorganisms compared to most commercial kefir or powdered starter cultures.  The strength and flavour also vary depending on fermentation time and conditions, which you have greater control over when fermenting at home.

Notes from growing milk kefir grains at home

In my experience, milk kefir grains are one of the most reliable live cultures for home use.  They tend to adapt well over time and can recover even after periods of neglect, provided they are returned to fresh milk.

Both the temperature, and the amount of grain used affects how quickly kefir ferments.  For a more detailed discussion, see my article on how much milk kefir grain I tend to use

Kefir Grain Availability

Milk kefir grains are available from time to time as part of my live cultures listing, usually in small starter portions suitable for home propagation.  Many suppliers sell very small starter portions, often around 1 teaspoon.  While these can work, I find beginners usually have more success starting with a larger quantity of healthy grains.  I include a decent amount of grains, closer to 1/4 cup of grains (or 16 teaspoons) that way the beginner is far more likely to succeed.

Milk kefir grains are one of the simplest and most forgiving fermentation cultures for beginners. With only milk, a jar, and a small quantity of healthy grains, you can maintain a continuous supply of homemade kefir for years.  Once established, the grains multiply naturally, making kefir one of the most economical fermented foods you can produce at home.


Monday, 1 June 2026

Perennial Vegetables, Plants, Seeds & Kefir for Sale – June 2026

For Sale: June 2026

I grow a range of perennial vegetables, edible plants, herbs, fruiting plants, aquatic plants, and a small selection of ornamental plants from my home garden in Australia.  Everything is grown organically by me and in small seasonal batches.  Most plants are available in small quantities only and some items may sell out during the month.

Availability changes through the year depending on growth cycles and dormancy.

If something is not listed below, it is not currently available this month.  

Pink skin and pink flesh seed potatoes
Pink flesh potatoes

How to Order

To order, please email me with the items you would like:

damien_beaumont [at] yahoo [dot] com [dot] au

(Replace [at] with @ and [dot] with .) 

I will reply with total cost and payment details.  Postage is sent on Mondays after payment clears.

Postage

  • $12 standard plant and item postage
  • $3.50 seeds only

For Sale: June 2026 

This month’s list includes perennial vegetable plants, edible perennial herbs, berry plants, heirloom and open-pollinated seeds, aquatic plants, and live cultures, all organically grown in my home garden in the Canberra region of Australia.

Bare Rooted Perennial Plants – $5 each (unless stated)


Perennial Onions & Alliums

  • Babington leek
  • Everlasting onions
  • Tree onions

Other Perennial Vegetables

  • Asparagus (Purple)
  • Asparagus (Precoce D’Argenteuil)
  • Chinese Water Chestnut ($3 per small corm)
  • Duck potato ($3 per small tuber)
  • Jerusalem Artichoke ($3 per tuber)
  • Pink Flesh Potato (sold out for now)

Culinary Edible Herbs

  • Brahmi/water hyssop  
  • Jekka's thyme
  • Lavender mint 
  • Lemongrass
  • Lime balm
  • Peppermint
  • Pineapple sage
  • Rosemary - blue flowering
  • Sweet violet
  • Vietnamese coriander 
  • Vietnamese fish mint (currently dormant for winter and will reshoot in spring)
  • Variegated water parsley
  • Green water parsley (more vigorous stronger tasting version of the variegated form)  
  • Watercress 
  • Willow herb

Berries & Fruit

  • Pineberry strawberry
  • Hokowase strawberry
  • Virginian strawberry
  • Attila alpine strawberry
  • Elderberry
  • Jostaberry
  • Pomegranate 

Aquatic Plants

  • Azolla – $3 per scoop
  • Duckweed – $3 per scoop


Heirloom and Open-Pollinated Seeds – $4 per packet (unless stated)

A selection of heirloom, open-pollinated, and home-bred vegetable seeds suitable for seasonal growing in Australian conditions, including rare and unusual vegetable seeds.
  • Immali corn (my own sweet corn breeding project producing purple/pink and white kernels)
  • Purple hot mustard
  • Purple asparagus
  • Tomato Tommy Toe
  • Tomato Reisetomate 
  • Tomato Woolly Kate 
  • Senposai
  • Hon Tsai Tai / Choy Sum (purple stem) 
  • Huacatay
  • Black raspberry seed (not plants) (note: needs minimum of 3 months cold wet stratification to germinate)
  • Muscari grape hyacinth - packet of seeds (not bulbs) 


Living Ancient Cultures - Kefir & Ferments - $5 

  • Milk kefir grains – approx 1/4 cup (significantly larger quantity than most starter packs)
  • Kombucha SCOBY 


Ornamentals/Succulents/Houseplants

  • Aloe vera - small plants $5 
  • String of pearls succulent - plant $5, cuttings $2
  • String of beans succulent (from Coober Pedy) - plant $5, cuttings  $2
  • Red jelly bean succulent  $5, cuttings $2
  • Succulent - Plectranthus (unnamed variety) $5 
  • African violet leaf cutting – 'New Hampshire' $3
  • African violet leaf cutting – double light blue (unnamed variety) $3


Other Items

  • Candle mould “skep” - $10
  • Candle mould “owl” - $10


New Hampshire African violet leaf for sale
African Violet New Hampshire

For photographs, botanical names, growing notes, and detailed descriptions of these plants, see my older catalogue page 

Please note my catalogue page has a lot of things not currently in season/not currently for sale.  The only things I have for sale this month are listed in this blog post above


Saturday, 30 May 2026

Creating Patterns on African Violet Flowers with Cold Water Damage

Last winter I noticed some African violet flower damage caused by condensation on a cold kitchen window.  The flowers that were close to the glass developed pale markings and damaged patches on their petals.  After seeing this, I wondered whether carefully applying cold water could create decorative patterns on African violet flowers without seriously harming the plant.  Perhaps I could carefully apply cold water and make interesting decorative patterns (or even write something simple) on the petals in a similar way that I can tattoo an apple using sunlight

I keep African violets on my kitchen windowsill, they flower a lot during the year.  I love the look of African violets, they are such an underrated house plant.

This post contains affiliate links. If you purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.

I borrowed a fine tipped paint brush from my kids, got some cold water, and carefully painted stripes and patterns on a few flowers.  My kids already had little art brushes, otherwise I would have bought some nice ones like these.  I had no idea if this would work, but hoped the cold water would damage the flowers just enough, but not too much.  I tried to keep everything reasonably symmetrical.

As it turns out, this kind of flower art worked well and looked good.  The photos below are from my winter flowers that I painted with cold water. 

African violet flower showing cold water damage on purple petals
African violet flower damage from cold
Close-up of African violet petals painted with cold water to create stripes

Pattern created on African violet flower using a fine paintbrush and cold water
Pattern created on African violet flower using a fine paintbrush and cold water

African violet with cold water damage on petals

I wasn't as neat as I could have been, and had a few accidents and spilled drips here and there.  Some flowers were also too close to the window and got additional damage from condensation. 

I think the flowers I did paint with water looked nice.  I tried to keep everything roughly symmetrical.  It was hard to see where I had painted, and I didn't know how much water to use.  Nor did I know if this could even work the way I hoped it would.  



How to Create Patterns on African Violet Flowers

1. Choose a plant with many blooms.
2. Use a fine paintbrush.
3. Dip the brush in cold water.
4. Paint a pattern onto the petals.
5. Wait several days for the markings to appear.
6. Observe the results.

African violet flower painted with cold water

Frequently Asked Questions

Can cold water damage African violet flowers?

Yes. In my experiment, even small amounts of cold water caused visible markings and discoloration on the flower petals.

Does cold water hurt African violet plants?

I only applied water to the petals rather than the leaves or crown. The flowers aged more quickly, but I did not notice obvious damage to the plant itself.

Can you create patterns on African violet flowers?

It appears possible to create simple patterns by carefully applying cold water to the petals with a fine brush.

It is almost winter here, and I have a few African violets that should flower over the cooler weather.  If I remember, and if any are blooming at the right time, I plan to try this again.  

I grow most of my African violets in self wicking pots, these ones look nice, are about 8cm across and are perfect for African violets.  

Given how many flowers this variety of African violet pumps out, I thought I could risk a few blooms.  I probably wouldn't try this on a less vigorous variety.  In case you are considering giving this a try yourself, you need to know that the flowers that have been damaged don't last as long as the untouched ones.  

New Hampshire African violet producing large numbers of blooms
This variety produces lots of flowers

I have no real idea if this is bad for the plants.  Given I am only damaging the flower petals, I assume it probably isn't overly bad for them.  Just in case I am wrong, I only plan to do this to a few flowers on each stalk at most.

I also learned a bit about how much water to use.  It turns out, as long as the water is cold, and the day is cold, you need very little water to do lasting damage to the petals.  

This was a surprisingly successful experiment. While the cold water probably shortened the life of the affected blooms, it also created interesting patterns and allowed me to make intentional flower art.  I plan to continue experimenting this winter to see how much detail can be added to African violet petals.  I now wonder how detailed I can make my flower art.  Perhaps this winter I will try to draw some love hearts, or write my kids' names.  

If you are interested in giving this a go, it is best to use a variety that produces a lot of blooms.  You may find a good one at a garden center, or I sell leaf cuttings through my for sale page.


Sunday, 3 May 2026

Growing Black Forbidden Rice in Pots: Flooded vs Dry Soil Comparison

In this experiment I compared forbidden black rice plants (Oryza sativa) grown:

  • in shallow water versus dry soil
  • in shallow water with and without azolla
  • in full sun versus part shade

Key findings from this rice growing experiment:

  • Rice in shallow water initially grew faster than dryland rice
  • Rice grown with azolla produced more tillers and flowered earlier
  • Full sun performed much better than part shade - no real surprise here
  • Flooded rice suffered significantly fewer pest problems - a real win for organic growing
  • Small pots likely reduced final grain production

The flooded rice with azolla grew faster, flowered earlier, and suffered fewer pest problems than the dryland rice.

This year I grew some forbidden black rice plants (Oryza sativa).  I don't know what I am doing when growing rice, and I am certainly not in their preferred climate, so it was all a bit of an experiment. 

This post contains affiliate links. I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Forbidden rice not yet ripe

There is not much advice available for backyard rice growers, so I had to largely work this out myself which is why I am writing this blog post.  

I had a few plants so thought I would do some comparisons, see what works better for me, and share the results.  Hopefully someone finds this useful.  

If nothing else, recording this here is useful for me in future years to remember what worked and what didn't.

Rice growing comparison

Rice plants comparison

Dry land rice compared to flooded rice

I am told that growing this variety of rice in shallow water is done mostly to control pests and weeds, and this variety of rice performs much the same in shallow water as it does in the vegetable garden.  Strangely I also read that shallow water grown rice tends to provide larger crops. 

I divided some of my rice plants, I planted one in a pot of soil in shallow water, the other is in a pot of soil.  Unfortunately this test was not overly great.  The soil used was the same, but the colour of the pot is different, as is the shape, and its volume, all of which may have an impact on growth of plants.  

I also had a few other rice plants in soil, and a few others in shallow water.  Some are in full sun, others part shade.  These two plants are growing side by side, and I figure it is easier to take photos of the same two plants time and again for comparison.

I grew them in ice cream containers.  This worked, but meant I had to use pots that were too small.  Had I used a fun plastic wisky barrel planter like these I could keep the pots sitting in a few centimetres of water during the warmer months and be able to use larger pots (and get larger yields).

I took the first photo on 20 November 2025.  Both plants were reasonably similar in size and health.  

20 November 
While early, the growth after 6 days was noticeable.  These were grown in soil, the soil had a lot of weed seeds, and I was still getting on top of that at this stage.  

I pull out the weeds, and leave them on the soil surface to die and break down releasing nutrients back to the soil.  The one in shallow water did not have issues with grass and weed seeds germinating, the water took care of that for me.  From that perspective, shallow water grown rice was easier.

26 November 

Another week later, and it became pretty clear which plant was performing better in the short term.  

The plant in shallow water with azolla is noticeably taller.  The leaves are darker green, and the stem has more black colouration.  This is black forbidden rice, the black means it is high in anthocyanin.   

At this stage neither started tillering, and they were both far from flowering stage.  There was still a long time left to run with this little experiment but it was interesting to see such a dramatic difference so early.

6 December 


Black rice in shallow water with azolla

Black rice growing in soil

After another week the water grown rice was racing ahead.  It was too early to know if this would have any impact on the vigour of plants later in the season or the grain harvest at the end of the season.  

14 December 2025 

After a few months, in March 2026, I took the next set of comparison photos.  The situation had changed since the initial comparison photos.

The plant grown in shallow water had about 3 large tillers, and the soil grown had about 5 large tillers.  This may have been because the dry soil grown rice had a larger amount of soil, or it may be because this variety of rice performs better under dryland conditions, I don't know.  I only count the larger tillers as they can produce grain, they also had a number of smaller tillers.  

Interestingly, the water grown plant flowered and produced seed over a month earlier than the soil grown plant.  I'm not sure if there is enough heat left in the season for the soil grown plant to produce seed before the first frosts come.

Azolla comparison March 2026

It is noteworthy that I had azolla floating on the water in that first comparison.  If one grew better or worse than the other it may be due to the shallow water, or it may be due to the azolla.  

As I didn't know how much impact azolla would have, I also grew some rice plants side by side in shallow water, with and without azolla.  I only have a small number of plants, and limited space, so was not able to have many replicates of each.   

Growing rice in shallow water with and without azolla 

I divided two similar sized rice plants on 29 November 2025.  The one without azolla was perhaps a little larger, and stronger.  It also was starting to tiller.  These two were as close in size and health as I could find.  While not perfectly identical, they were near enough.

I planted them in identical pots, in the same soil, and placed them in identical containers, and added water.  This comparison was better than the first one as the conditions for this were as identical as I could get them. 

The rice plant on the right is slightly larger - 29 November

I left these pots so the soil could settle for a while, both had roots under water and the leaves were in the air.  

Once they had settled in, I increased the depth of water, and added some azolla to one container.  I added quite a bit of azolla so I wouldn't have to wait long before it covered the water surface.  I didn't need to start with so much azolla, the azolla covered the water surface over the next few days, the growth rate of azolla is remarkable.  

One with azolla seems slightly smaller at the start

Once the plants grew a little I increased the depth of water to the top of the container.  From here I tried to keep the water topped up in both containers.  The water evaporates fast over summer, the one that did not have azolla evaporated much faster.  I did my best to keep both containers topped up.

You will notice the water without azolla also had a few algae blooms.  The water turned green and soupy for a while.  I don't think these blooms are great for plants, and I didn't notice many tiny things swimming among the algae.  When I parted the azolla the water underneath appeared clear and was teeming with tiny life.  While I don't know if this impacts the productivity of the rice plants, aesthetically having azolla and lots of tiny life is nicer.

Rice in shallow water - 06 December

Rice in shallow water with azolla - 06 December

Algae in the water that without azolla

Both plants similar size at this stage

One benefit to rice from azolla is that azolla sequesters nitrogen from the atmosphere, and puts it in a form that can be taken up by other plants.  This type of nitrogen fertiliser would be otherwise expensive to apply, where azolla does this organically and for free.  

I read a study https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC12149377/ indicating azolla has more benefit to rice than simple nitrogen fertilisation, apparently it also acts as a 'biostimulant'.  We are only beginning to unravel this interaction, but it sounds like azolla is more promising than simply being an organic and free fertiliser.  

In that study, growing azolla with rice resulted in the accumulation of small peptides, lipids, and carbohydrates in rice roots, as well as flavonoid glycosides and carbohydrates in rice leaves.  Early research suggests that this may make the rice plants more vigorous and higher yielding.  That early research indicates not only does azolla increase the amount of rice grain produced, it may also make the grain more nutritious.  More research needs to be conducted in this field.

I am getting off track here, time to get back to the rice plant growing comparison.  About two weeks later, the algae bloom had cleared from the water, and both plants had grown noticeably.  The rice grown with azolla was taller, more lush, and beginning to develop more tillers.  It was still very early in this comparison.

Rice plants with and without azolla comparison
Rice plants with and without azolla 19 December
This plant is growing well, but not as well as the one with azolla

Clear water, lots of growth, it is going well

Larger and healthier looking plant

The water without azolla eventually cleared, and stayed clear for the remainder of the growing season.  The other plant had azolla that grew into a thick azolla mat, the lower levels breaking down and releasing nutrients while the azolla on the surface continued to grow.

I had some issues with tiny birds getting into the greenhouse and messing with the azolla.  I don't know if they were eating it, or bathing in the water and splashing the azolla out, or searching for feed under it.  I made no attempt to stop them, I think having fairy wrens come into the greenhouse isn't a bad thing as they eat a lot of small insect pests.

In March 2026 I took the following comparison photos.  The azolla grown rice had 6 large tillers, while the non-azolla grown rice had 3 large tillers.  Each of these tillers could have eventually flowered and produced seed.

It is noteworthy that the plants with azolla had more tillers, and flowered several weeks before the ones grown in water without azolla.  

Azolla rice comparison March 2026

Shade grown rice compared to full sun


I had a few pots of rice growing in full sun, and I had some in part shade.  I wondered if in small pots perhaps rice would over heat and might do better under a little shade to keep the roots cooler.    

I didn't persist with this for very long as it became evident that rice growing in full sun was far larger and healthier than rice in part shade.  After a few weeks I moved the shade grown rice into more sun, and they almost caught up to the other plants.

I don't have any photos of the shade grown rice.  They were just small seedlings, they grew well once I moved them to an area with more sun. 


Rice seed heads forming in autumn

Rice Plant Growing Conclusion

While I got some seed from my rice growing experiment, all my rice plants struggled to produce a decent sized crop this year, I think there are a few reasons behind this.  

This summer, apart from a few days of extreme heat, was largely mild and dry.  We had very few tomatoes ripen this year, presumably due to lack of consistent heat.  I have a feeling if we had more consistent heat plus a bit more rain I may have been able to produce a better rice crop.  

The pots I grew the rice in were far too small.  If they had larger pots, they may have been better able to mature.  

I initially worried that the rice plants may not get enough sun in the greenhouse, but this didn't seem to be an issue.  The greenhouse grown plants didn't perform any worse than rice plants grown outside in full sun. 

Rice growing outside in full sun - not part of the comparison

When rice was grown on dryland, it initially performed worse than the submerged rice plants.  As time went on, the dryland rice caught up and grew better than the flooded rice - but dryland rice also had issues with pests. 

I had a large pot of soil with several rice plants that I did not take many photos of as I had no similar water grown comparison, I have a photo below of the end result.  

This rice was all killed by pests

Every rice plant in this pot was damaged by pests, and over time they all died.  It seems in my garden that slaters/wood lice have a taste for rice plants, and like to eat out their base.  I did not lose any of the flooded rice to pests, nor did I notice any pest damage to them at all.  In this sense, the flooded rice was better as it suffered no pest damage in my garden where everything is grown organically.  

Home grown rice performs best in full sun.  Growing in part shade did not do well.  This was not a great surprise.

Home grown rice in shallow water performed better with azolla than it did without azolla.  This was to be expected as it agrees with results from much research into growing rice with azolla.
 
Rice not yet ready

I only had a small number of plants this year, so this may be coincidence, but all of the rice grown in shallow water flowered and produced grain weeks before the dryland grown rice.  I expected the dryland rice to perform better as I had them in in pots with a larger volume of soil, but for unknown reasons they are the last to produce grain.

The rice plants grown in shallow water with azolla were the first to flower, followed several weeks later by the shallow water rice without azolla, while the dryland grown rice only began to flower in late April.  

Forbidden black rice seed heads forming

I am told that this rice is perennial if protected over winter.  I will try to protect some and see if any survives.  I will have some in shallow water (to insulate against temperature swings), and some in damp soil, and see how they go.  

Frosts are on the way, so I have moved all my rice plants into the greenhouse.  My rice plants are all yellowing from the cold.  I'm not sure if they will survive my winter.  Not everything survives winter in the greenhouse as it is still very cold in there over night, but it is worth a try.
  
Rice plants turning yellow in cooler weather

While my preference is for the rice plants to survive winter and to grow as perennials, I will also try to collect and store some seed to replant in Spring.  They produced hundred of seeds, so saving some of this shouldn't be an issue. 

Next year, if I grow black forbidden rice again, I plan to grow it in a few buckets of soil, or in large pots in buckets of water, similar to how I grow Chinese water chestnuts in buckets.  Given a larger amount of soil I think these plants would perform much better.  

Friday, 1 May 2026

Perennial vegetables for sale May 2026

For sale in Australia: perennial vegetables, heirloom vegetable seeds, edible herb plants, organic berry plants, corms and bulbs, and a few non-edible plants and things.  Everything has been grown organically by me.

Maintaining my old for sale page wasn't working for me.  Each month I now write a new blog post with an updated list of what I have for sale that month and include a link on my old for sale page.  I grow many things that are only available in season, and some plants are only available while they are dormant.  

If something you want is not listed below, then I don't have it for sale this month. 

Perennial buckwheat heart shaped leaf

For Sale: May 2026 

Small Bare Rooted Plants $5 each (unless otherwise stated): 

Everlasting onions 
Tree onions (small bulbils)
Babington leek 
Jerusalem artichoke tubers
Pineberry strawberry
Hokowase strawberry 
Virginian strawberry
Atilla alpine strawberry 
Jekkas thyme 
Peppermint 

Lavender mint 
Pineapple sage
Willow herb
Lime balm 
Vietnamese fish mint
Vietnamese coriander
Variegated water parsley 
Green water parsley (more vigorous stronger tasting version of the variegated form) 
Asparagus (Variety: Purple) 
Asparagus (Variety: Precoce D'Argenteuil)
Sweet Violet 
Lemongrass 
Water cress 
Brahmi/water hyssop  
Rosemary - blue flowering 
Perennial buckwheat (will be dormant until spring) 
Elderberry 
Jostaberry 
Pomegranate  
Pink Flesh Potato ($5 for 3 small tubers)
Azolla $3 per scoop 
Duckweed $3 per scoop 


Bulbs or corms:

Muscari grape hyacinth bulb (actively growing)  $2 each
Muscari grape hyacinth - Packet of seeds  $4


Ancient Cultures: 

Milk kefir - around 1/4 cup grains  $5 
Kombucha SCOBY  $5 

Heirloom Vegetable Seeds:  $4 packet (unless otherwise stated) 

Immali corn
Purple hot mustard
Purple asparagus
Tomato Tommy Toe
Tomato Reisetoimate 
Tomato Woolly Kate 
Senposai
Hon Tsai Tai / Choy Sum (purple stem) 
Huacatay
Black raspberry SEED (note: needs minimum of 3 months cold wet stratification to germinate)


Non edible things:

Aloe vera $5 
String of pearls succulent - plant $5, cuttings $2
String of beans succulent (from Coober Pedy) - plant $5, cuttings  $2
Red jelly bean succulent  $5
Succulent - Plectranthus $5 
African violet leaf cutting (Variety: New Hampshire) $3 each
African violet leaf cutting (Variety: unnamed double light blue) $3 each


Candle mold 'skep' $10 each 
Candle mold 'owl' $10 each 


Postage Prices: 

$12 for plants etc 
Or $3.50 if only buying seeds. 

I post the Monday after payment has cleared.  

Kombucha

To order anything from the above list this month: 

Please send me an email saying what plants/seeds you would like and I will reply with prices/payment methods.  My email address will need to remove the the spaces, put @ instead of the word 'at' and . in place of the word 'dot': 

damien_beaumont at yahoo dot com dot au 


Photographs, binomial names, descriptions of plants, and notes on how I grow them, can be found on my old for sale page.  Please note my old page has a lot of things not currently in season/not currently for sale.  The only things I have for sale this month are listed in this blog post above