Microbats eat 1,200 mosquitoes per hour? No they don't.

Microbats in Australia don’t eat up to 1,200 mosquitoes in an hour.  This is a common myth that has been spread for far too long by people who should know better.  Like many myths, this one is well meaning but does more harm than good.

Microbats are great, their habitat is shrinking and I think that more people should build and install bat boxes and other artificial shelters for them, I even found some nice free plans here to build one and would like to encourage you to build a few. 

Far too often people are taken in by this microbats consuming huge numbers of mosquitoes nonsense, they build a bat box, then when it doesn’t reduce the number of mosquitoes at their BBQ they tell people not to bother building bat boxes.  This is where the damage is done.

Let’s look at the reality of microbats and you can decide if you still want to build a bat box.  Build them because microbats are great, not because you have misunderstood these creatures and expect them to do something that is impossible for them to do.  I think if you understand the reality of these lovely little animals that you will be just as likely to build a roosting box for them but will be far less likely to convince others not to build them.

In Australia we have less than 90 species of microbat, there is some controversy over the actual number.  Depending on your location there may be 1 or 2 that are native to your region, or there may be 30.  Australia is a big country, not surprisingly it has a lot of diversity in habitat, vegetation and wildlife.  Not surprisingly, different species of Australian microbats have different diets.

Most species of microbat in Australia don’t eat mosquitoes at all.  Several species of microbat that are native to Australia can and do eat some mosquitoes, they just don’t eat them very often and when they do they don’t eat many of them. 

Very few species of microbats in Australia actually eat mosquitoes, most species only eat larger things such as moths, beetles and spiders.  Of the few species of microbat in Australia that ever eat mosquitoes, on any given night the majority of individuals will not consume any mosquitoes at all.  Of the individual microbats who do eat mosquitoes on a given night, the vast majority of their diet will usually be made of moths or beetles, and mosquitoes will only ever be a very small percentage. 

Eastern bentwing bat - picture from Department of Environment and Heritage

We know what microbats eat from a few studies conducted to figure out what microbats in Australia are eating.  If you are curious how they tell what a bat eats, they capture some from the bush and do a DNA analysis of the bat poo.  This test can detect tiny amounts of insects even in a small sample and completely removes all guess work and conjecture.  This test has also disproven the myth that microbats eat thousands of mosquitoes each and every hour. 

Most studies that I have read indicate that very few species of microbat ever eat mosquitoes, but all species of microbat in Australia eat a lot of moths and beetles.  In one study in a QLD grain growing region it was found that 100% of the diet of microbats was grain weevils (weevils are a type of beetle).  This alone disproves the microbats making a noticeable difference to the local mosquito population myth.  If you have ever been to grain growing regions you will notice that there are a lot of mosquitoes, so microbats could eat them if they wanted.  The microbats just prefer to catch larger, slower , more nutritious meals.  It doesn't mean that you shouldn't still build a nice box for bats to sleep in, just that they don't eat significant amounts of mosquitoes.

So far I am yet to find any research where mosquitoes made up a large percentage of a microbat’s diet anywhere in Australia.  If you are a bat researcher or know of any study that indicates otherwise please let me know as I would love to read it.  This has to be a peer reviewed study, not notes someone wrote after claiming to read a study, or some unverifiable and unrepeated observation written for BATS magazine that has been misunderstood and plagiarised by milkwood.

Ever wonder where the microbats eating 1,200 mosquitoes an hour myth first came from?  The ridiculously high numbers of mosquitoes potentially being consumed was extrapolated from a student in Sweden who reported once observing a single bat successfully capture “up to 20 mosquitoes in a minute” using a stopwatch.  One minute, not an hour, not averaged over an entire night, just one minute with a stopwatch in the field and a best guess.  Have you ever watched microbats feeding?  This method is far from accurate.

It gets worse, the field observations were made in northern Sweden during the summer where the sun only dips below the horizon for 90 minutes per night.  During this time the larger, slower, more nutritious insects were not common.  That means that even if this number was accurate it would not be transferable to Australian microbats.

There is no point having a two dimensional simplistic view of the world.  In Australia we have different species of microbats than they have in Sweden, many larger and easier to catch food insects are present here, and our nights are far longer.  All of this means that even if it were true, this unrealistically high number of mosquitoes being consumed is not applicable in Australia. 

Mosquitoes are small and fast and require a lot of energy to catch.  Due to their tiny size a mosquito provides very little return on this large investment.  It is easier to catch fewer but larger food items and have some time for rest, drinking water, searching for roosting sites, courtship etc.  Catching a mosquito every three seconds for hour after hour when there are larger slower food items around just doesn’t happen, it is illogical to ever think that it would.  So please don't be taken in by it.

In Australia, mosquitoes are more of a convenient treat for some microbats rather than a staple food, microbats much prefer to eat moths or beetles.  Notice how I keep talking about microbats in Australia?  I don’t care what happens in other parts of the world, me building a bat box only effects microbats that I may encounter here in Australia.

Why bother encouraging microbats if they don’t eat many mosquitoes?  To put it bluntly, I attract many animals to my yard that don’t eat mosquitoes as they have other benefits, why wouldn't I do the same for microbats.  Many people buy insect zappers with those blue lights, they don’t attract mosquitoes yet it is a thriving industry.  Lowering the numbers of moths and beetles is fantastic and well worth encouraging microbats into your garden.  The microbats don’t just eat the insects, they also disrupt mating which reduces the number of insect eggs laid which has an even larger effect on pest populations. 

Don’t ever be so gullible that you are fooled into thinking that microbats only eat pests, they also eat many beneficial arthropods.  This is the same as spiders and birds eat pests but they also eat beneficial insects.  This is nature, there is no way around it, no use in pretending it isn’t happening.

Strangely very few studies have been done to see how much of a difference microbats make in protecting large scale crops from pests.  I have heard of a few studies that claim microbats significantly lower damage from coddling moth in walnuts, helicoverpa moth in cotton fields, and grain weevils in grain crops, but would love to read more studies.  Again I stress that microbats are great to have around, they just won't make a noticeable difference to the local mosquito population in your back yard.

I have often wondered if encouraging microbats to live near bee hives would reduce the damage from wax moth.  Would running poultry under the hives during the day and encouraging microbats at night reduce pests significantly?  Unfortunately I can find no research (or even anecdotal evidence) that has tested this.  I guess people are too caught up in thinking microbats only eat thousands of mosquitoes per hour that they can’t think of ways to utilise them to actually reduce pests.

Let me stress that I want to encourage people to build and install bat boxes.  Just remember that microbats are great to have around, but they won’t make a noticeable difference to the mosquito population in your area.

Meyer Lemon tree from cutting

I have never been a huge fan of lemons.  There is little doubt that the lemon is the poor cousin of the lime.  To be completely honest, I was never a huge fan of growing any citrus tree, recently this has changed. 

Lemons from my tree

We have had a few citrus trees in the past, some oranges and a few different lemons, they were slow growing, unproductive, demanded huge quantities of water, they died back in the heat, they died back in the cold, branches died from lack of water even though I mulched heavily and watered each afternoon, they seemed to attract every pest known to man, then if you pampered them and watered them and protected them from the sheep and they actually set fruit it was pithy and seedy and more often than not completely filled with fruit fly.

When we moved to our current house it had a lemon tree.  I am happy to say that due to our harsh winters the fruit fly don’t do well here.  The lemon tree had some fruit on it that was ripe, some that was over ripe and rotting, and some that was mummified and appeared diseased, all of which needed to be picked.  I reluctantly picked the fruit while planning to remove the tree and eventually replace it with something else.  As we had some ripe lemons we used them, no point wasting them, and found it to be the best lemon I have ever eaten. 

My lemon tree produces fruit that is smaller than the lemons I can buy from markets, it had a very thin skin with little to no noticeable pith, it was extremely juicy, it was strangely sweet for a lemon, and it seemed relatively productive even though it has clearly not been taken care of.  While I think it is sour some of my kids can eat it straight off the tree or drink its juice without screwing up their faces too much. 

Meyer lemons

After a little research I found that this is a meyer lemon.  Meyer lemons are different to regular lemons in a number of ways.

The Meyer lemon tree was ‘discovered’ in China in the early 1900s (possibly 1908) by Frank Meyer, who was an agricultural explorer.  It is thought to be a natural cross between a lemon and a bitter orange, the exact parentage is debated somewhat.  Like most citrus it does have thorns when young, but as the tree ages it tends to grow less thorns or no thorns.  It is sweeter than most lemons, juicier than most lemons, and has a thinner skin than most lemons. 

This thin skin means that meyer lemons are more difficult to pick, ship, and store for extended periods.  As a home gardener I don’t store anything in warehouses for extended periods, I don’t ship fresh fruit across the globe, and I am not picking for hours at a time so can take the care required not to damage them too badly.  So having thin skin is not a bad thing for me.

This past year I decided to weigh the fruit my little tree produced, in one season it produced over 50 kg of ripe lemons.  This coming season it looks like it will produce a lot less.  If I remember I will try to weigh it, but it is a lot of work weighing fruit that is picked over several months so I may not bother.

Meyer lemon tree cutting

Being such a great tree I decided to grow another one from a cutting.  Who would have thought I would ever consider doing that when I was originally planning to just rip out the tree!

Meyer lemon tree cutting with roots

I looked on the internet and many people say it is impossible for home gardeners to grow lemons from cuttings, or they give strict instructions that they claim must be followed, others claim you need to use rooting hormones or expensive cloning thingies.  I didn’t do any of that.  Perhaps I just got lucky, but for me growing a lemon tree from a cutting really wasn’t that difficult to do.   

I cut off a small branch, loosely tied a plastic bag over the end, and kept it in some water until it grew roots.  You can easily see the roots in the pictures above.  Once the roots were visible I removed the plastic bag and planted it into a pot of soil.  Then I forgot to water it for a while, and had it in too much shade, and so forth, but it is still alive and growing.

Meyer lemon tree cutting is now a proper little tree - look how much it has grown!

I have also planted some meyer lemon seeds.  I know full well that each of these seeds will be different to the parent, most won’t be as good, but I may end up with something even better. 

I also know it can take a few years before the tree is old enough to flower and fruit.  It will be interesting to see how many years it actually takes.

If you plan to grow lemons from seeds it is easier to grow from fresh seeds as dry seeds don’t seem to do as well.  Perhaps they die when dried, perhaps they go dormant and take longer to sprout, I don’t really know or care, I just know it is easier to germinate fresh seeds. 

I found web sites describing how to grow lemons from seeds who claim “non-organic lemons often contain non-germinating seeds” and “Make sure you purchase an organic lemon since some non-organic lemon seeds may be “duds”, incapable of germinating”.  This is utterly ridiculous.  Please ignore anything you hear from people who spread this kind of misinformation. 

Both organically grown and non-organically grown lemon seeds have an equal chance of germinating and growing.  My tree, much like everything in my yard, is organically grown, but if I applied synthetic fertiliser it would not alter the ability of the seeds to germinate.   

Perhaps these people are misunderstanding what they have heard about vegetables?  Maybe they are misunderstanding hybrid sterility due to incompatible ploidy levels, or cytoplasmic male sterility?  Obviously they wont grow true to type as it is Meyer lemons are a hybrid to begin with.  The parents of meyer lemons clearly had the same ploidy level, the fruit is not seedless, they self-pollinate and produces viable seeds, so there is no reason that organic will have more viable seeds than non-organic.

I find it frustrating that people spread these kinds of lies.  Most are well meaning and either confused or are doing it to try and convince people to grow organically.  I grow things organically, and I encourage others to grow organically, but I like to encourage by providing information rather than through making up illogical lies and pretending that things are different than they really are.  People who spread this nonsense are doing far more harm than good.

I grew my lemon seeds by getting some seeds from some lemons that we were juicing, and planting them in a punnet of soil.  I kept this punnet moist, mostly forgot about it, figured it had been so long that they weren’t going to grow, and they grew when they were ready.  I only planted the fatter and more developed seeds.  I didn’t expect many to grow so I put a fair few in.  Unfortunately I didn’t count them but I am guessing that most germinated.

So far all my little lemon tree seedlings have been burned intense sunlight, they have not been watered enough, they are in poor soil, some were pelted with large hail, but they are all surviving.  I don’t have much space so don’t plan to keep many, lemon seedlings are not very winter hardy so perhaps I will wait and keep the largest ones that survive winter.

Maybe one day I will sell lemon trees through my for sale page.

Breeding Superior Slow Bolt Coriander

Coriander (Coriandrum sativum) is a herb that you either love or hate.  This does not store well or transport well or dry well, and hydroponically grown coriander that you can get in supermarkets often taste weak, so for those of us who love coriander we must grow it ourselves.

Most people who grow coriander to harvest leaves (the Americans call the leaves 'cilantro') complain that they bolt too easily.  It often feels like any stress from transplant shock, or hot weather, or a change in the weather, or under watering, or over watering, or even looking at them wrong makes them stop growing leaves and start flowering.  Buying so-called ‘slow bolt’ varieties often makes no noticeable difference as these varieties have been grown by the seed company and no selective pressure has been placed on them for reluctance to flower. 
 

Most people adopt one of two responses to this issue, they either stop growing coriander as it is too difficult/low yielding, or they save seed from the best plants each year and add selective pressure for slow bolting plants.  These are both valid and sensible responses.  

Recently I read a paper written by an overseas seed research facility that said “Selection is the most common breeding procedure used in coriander and crossing is non-existent”.

I encourage people to add deliberate selective pressure when saving seeds, I certainly do this myself.  Common sense tells you that if you plant seed of the slower bolting plants (and cull the early flowering ones) then the next generation will be slower bolting.  The main issue with adding selective pressure coriander is that you are working with a small inbred population of plants that have very little diversity in their genetic makeup, so progress is made but it is slow progress.  To really create slow bolting coriander crossing different varieties is essential.  So that is what I have done.

Coriander mass cross, I had another bed of these behind and another one next to this to ensure every variety would cross with every variety

I was given seed of several different varieties of coriander collected from several different countries, plus I already had some that I had grown previously and added selective pressure to.  I grew all  nine varieties being careful to prevent them from crossing, and while each variety was nice and clearly different from one another none of them really thrives in my climate.  The leaf shape and size varied considerably among them, the size and number of seeds was very different between varieties, but they all taste and smell much the same.  I don’t have the time or space to grow nine substandard varieties and keep them all pure, and I really don’t have space to add the selective pressure required to improve each of the varieties separately, so I had a difficult decision to make.

Coriander mass cross, even this tiny some are already flowering due to the heat

Rather than keeping the lines pure and separate, putting in effort to maintain purity, and having nothing that performs overly well here, I decided to plant all of them and produce a mass cross.  They are very distinct varieties, originating from several different countries, meaning there is a lot of genetic diversity among them.  Inbreeding depression will be eliminated from my population through this mass cross event.  From the mass cross or grex, which is comprised of many different potential f1 crosses, I will grow out and allow them to cross as they see fit, all while culling.  

I did three staggered plantings of several seeds from all the varieties to ensure that each variety will flower and cross with each other variety.  It seems strange to be allowing coriander to flower, and not to be culling, but this is only the start.  Every year from now there will be culling, as well as back crossing to the previous year seeds.

  
If I cull hard each year I should be able to create a new variety or landrace of coriander that performs far better in this climate.  While I feel bad that once these have crossed I have no way to get these varieties back, which means that many of these varieties may well go extinct, the end result should be superior to anything I currently have access to.  I only have small numbers of seed of the original varieties left, but if you are a seed saver group and want a few seeds from the original strains and want to keep them pure please let me know before it is too late.
  

I have been harvesting the leaves even from substandard plants, so I am no worse off than just growing all of the different varieties and keeping them pure, and I should never end up with something as bad as I started with.  This first year I have allowed all of the varieties to flower and cross, I have even done a second planting of all the varieties to increase chances of crossing all the different varieties with each other.
 

Coriander

After this first year, when the lower quality plants begin to bolt they will be culled and not allowed to flower, so each generation the genepool becomes superior to the previous one.

  
When breeding it is important to know what to cull for, to make some culling rules, and to strictly follow those rules.  I plan to cull for firstly amount/size of leaves as that is what I want to harvest from the plants, there is no use having plants that take forever to flower if they don't produce many leaves.  Then I will select for reluctance to bolt as the yield is reduced if they stress and flower too easily.  Then I will select for number of seed produced, then large size of seeds.  

I want to end up with plants that produce lots of leaves and are simple to grow and save seed from each year.  Producing many seeds means I can produce many plants, and large seeds are easier to work with and tend to remain viable for longer, but leaves are the crop here so that is where the main selective pressure is to be added.

Most of these original varieties are 'slow bolt' and 'long standing' and 'giant' leaf varieties, some from hot climates, others from cold climates, this gives a strong yet wide genetic base with which to work.  
  

When I have finished tinkering with this improved coriander variety I may sell seeds through my for sale page.  Currently I am selling the mass cross seeds and allow others the opportunity to create their own new variety that suits their climate.  These will display a wide range of genetic diversity, all will taste and smell like normal coriander.  If you buy these please cull hard, ONLY save seed from the slowest to flower, that way you will create a variety of coriander that will be productive and slow to flower in your garden.

Days to harvest Rhubarb from seed

I was sent a few different varieties of rhubarb seed that was originally collected from different countries.

Very few people grow rhubarb from seed.  It is said to be too difficult, and it is said to take too long.  yet no one ever tells you how long it actually takes.

Most varieties of rhubarb, even if it self pollinates, will not grow true to type and you will not get anything similar to the parent plant.  Each rhubarb variety that I was sent was said to breed true, which I find almost impossible to believe given the polyploid nature of rhubarb.

Each set of seeds looked different to one another, some larger and some smaller.  Each set of seedlings did show a remarkable lack of diversity from one another from that group, yet each group was very different from the others.  Even at cotyledon stage it was simple to tell each group from all the others.

Other than one variety collected from Korea, which I am not convinced is rhubarb or even a species of Rheum, all of these rhubarb varieties went dormant over winter and re-sprouted in spring.

The largest was a variety originally collected in China.  It was the largest right from the start.  The others are not yet ready to harvest.  Some are closer to harvest than others.  They have all grown a lot since the photo was taken.  They have also been battered by the heat and shredded by hail, gone dormant over winter and resprouted in Spring.


Days to maturity Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum)

Seeds planted       04/11/2016       Day 0
Germinated           ??/??/2016        Day ? Oh why didn't I record this!
Harvest start         14/01/2018       Roughly 14 months from seed planted to first harvest
Flowering             ??/10/2018       Roughly 23 months after seed planted (I removed the flower stalk)

Some of the rhubarb varieties.  Left to right seed collected from: China, Poland, Finland, Germany

Considering that when you buy rhubarb crowns it is not advisable to harvest in the first year, growing from seed didn't really take much longer.  Time will tell which ones are worth keeping.

I also listed the days to harvest from seed for a heap of different vegetables, if you are interested please click here. 

How to grow skirret from seed

Skirret plants will not cross pollinate with anything other than skirret, so saving seed is easy.  Skirret flowers in characteristic umbels that appear to be loved by all kinds of pollinators from beneficial wasps to flies to beetles to ants to native bees and even honey bees, so pollination is never problematic.  Seed grown skirret displays a surprising amount of diversity which is great for breeding improved plants with thicker roots.  I normally plant skirret seed in spring, this year I have sown some in summer and it also appears to be growing well.

Skirret: normal plants on left, offset grown plants on right

Planting skirret seed in spring will yield a small crop of edible sized roots, a few tiny offsets to plant out, as well as more seed before the end of autumn, even in shorter climates.  First year roots tend to be thin and delicious, if you can leave some they will be far thicker the following year.  Planting a tiny skirret offset gives a far larger plant with thicker roots than seed grown plants.  This winter I should take a comparison photo of seed grown skirret, offset grown skirret and older skirret plants. 

One year old skirret plants - each skirret plant produces several offsets

Skirret seeds are very tiny and germination is normally very simple.  I am told that skirret seed remains viable for anywhere from 3 to 10+ years.  While I normally get great germination I am told that germination rates can fall below 75% even with fresh seed.  To cover against this I only sell the freshest seed I have and I put extra seed in the packets so you will easily be able to grow 20 or more plants.  I have read that temperatures of 10 C to 22 C are best for germination but have never paid much attention to this.  

I plant skirret seed either in pots of soil or in an empty garden bed with no weeds.  I normally scatter the seed over the soil surface and water well.  I don’t cover the seed as it is so tiny and the seedling may not be able to grow to the surface.  I am also not sure if skirret needs light to improve germination.  From here I never let it dry out and in a week or two I normally see seedlings start to pop up.  If it rains the seedlings seem to germinate and grow faster, but that may be my imagination.  

Skirret offsets, they aren't big

The main pests I have seen with skirret are slugs and snails, the tiny seedlings may need a little protection until they get larger which is why I often grow skirret seedlings in a pot.  Much like any seedling things like earwigs and slaters may kill them when very small.  I am yet to see any pest bother a large skirret plant.  I assume rabbits, ducks, sheep etc would eat skirret plants to death due to the high sugar content.    

Once the skirret seedlings have a few true leaves and are large enough to handle you can transplant them where they are to grow.  Even if seeds were sown in the garden they will still likely need transplanting as watering tends to move seeds and clump them together rather than leave them to grow nicely spaced.  You don’t have to transplant them if you don’t want to as they will survive and still produce a crop.  

One dormant skirret offset, it doesn't have roots yet

Unlike many other root crops skirret does not appear to dislike being transplanted.  Skirret likes to be protected from the sun for a few days after transplanting, otherwise the leaves sometimes wilt.  I cram skirret in to any space I have and get good crops but the more space you can give them the better, most people plant about 30 cm apart or 9 per square meter.  

Skirret thrives in cool climates and loves water but it is a survivor that is remarkably adaptable.  I grew it in a hot arid climate where it could not survive in the garden by keeping it in a pot of soil in a bucket that I would fill with water each morning and afternoon.  Each year the skirret plants get larger, both taller and wider.  Each year the skirret plants produce more offsets, more seed, and fatter roots.    

Skirret roots from two year old plants

When the skirret dies down it is time to harvest roots.  I have only grown skirret in frosty areas so don’t know if it dies down in areas of warm winters.  Skirret roots do not store well once dug so I dig them up as needed.  Any small ones that I leave behind or any that I miss will just be larger and fatter next year.

 

Few places sell skirret seed in Australia and even fewer sell skirret plants.  I sell skirret seed all year and skirret offsets over winter through my for sale page.

Days to maturity Thornless Youngberry

One of the berries I grew this year was a thornless youngberry.

Youngberries are one of the many hybrid berries that have raspberry and blackberry in their parentage.  These are not GM, the first ones were bred about 100 years ago.

These things taste amazing, much like a boysenberry, but are smaller and more productive.  They have no thorns on the canes (botanically they are known as prickles) and are strong vigorous growers. 

Days to maturity Thornless Youngberry (Rubus sp)

Seeds planted       N/A grown from divisions
Germinated           N/A
Flowered              25/10/2017       Day 0
Fruit Ripe              07/12/2017       Day 43

I have added this to a larger list of vegetable days to harvest from seed.

Thornless youngberry

Thornless youngberry

Golden Raspberry plants in Australia

A while ago Diggers club advertised what they claimed to be an exclusive yellow fruited raspberry plant.  They looked and sounded amazing!

“Diggers gold” raspberry plants were listed on their web site, it was listed in their printed catalogues, at first they were only for Diggers members but eventually it was sold through their shops, and it was sold through other stores that carry their line of plants.  The stock photos of yellow raspberries they used looked amazing, and their embellished and fanciful description of the plant sounded great.  Diggers arrogantly renamed this variety to ‘Diggers gold’ even though they had not bred it and had never actually grown them, not even once.  I am not sure if they bought the naming rights or if they just decided to rename it to make it more marketable like they do with so many other plants and seeds that they sell.  This level of contempt and arrogance is typical of many of my experiences with Diggers Club.

Here is the irony, I love this part: the raspberry variety that Diggers actually had, the one that they renamed to be “Diggers Gold”, was actually a red fruited raspberry.

If you looked on Diggers club facebook page you either see comments from people who say they can’t wait for them to fruit, or comments complaining that they had red fruit.  Not a single comment on there said that they grew yellow fruit.  Not one.  It certainly appears that Diggers did not sell a single yellow fruited raspberry. 

Diggers facebook page ad for Diggers Gold Raspberries

Diggers club sold these ‘diggers gold’ raspberry plants to many, many home gardeners.  A year or so later when they had red fruit a reasonable number of these people complained because they did not get what they paid for.  Diggers sent replacement plants to most people who complained, and they grew the plants on for another year and a half, only to have red fruit again.  For some people, this happened more times and they never got what they paid for.  Some people were tricked to think that fruit colour was influenced by growing conditions (which it is not) or somehow they were to blame.  Others were offered credit on their next purchase.  I almost bought a Diggers membership just so I could get a golden raspberry, I am so glad that I didn't fall for their lies again.

I have heard people try to justify all of this and say that they still got raspberries - unfortunately that isn’t good enough.  If I wanted to buy an inferior and unnamed random variety of raspberry I would do that and not pay the high prices and inflated and unjustified postage cost that Diggers has.  People made space for these things when they could have grown something far better.  It is the time spent growing the wrong thing that is the biggest loss – you can’t get back time.

You would have thought that with such a large company and paying inflated prices for something they claim to be exclusive that you would have some assurance in actually getting what you paid for, apparently not with Diggers club.  With the Diggers club you don’t always get what you pay for.  Rest assured, Diggers doesn’t currently list ‘Diggers gold raspberries’.  Perhaps one day they will rename another variety of raspberry to be ‘Diggers gold’ and maybe it will be yellow fruited?  Perhaps one day Diggers club will have a yellow raspberry and rename it to be something else or add 'Clive' to the cultivar name?  I wouldn’t risk buying from them though.

My golden raspberries look great

Yellow fruited raspberries do exist in Australia

Some people had such a bad experience with Diggers club and spent so much time growing diggers gold (red fruited) raspberries that they think yellow raspberries don’t actually exist.  I am happy to say that yellow fruiting raspberries do exist in Australia, I grow them.  I paid a small fortune to get a few plants from someone trustworthy (ie not Diggers club or ebay) and it was worth it.

My golden raspberries

My golden raspberries

My golden raspberry plants are an un-named variety, they looked very strong and healthy.  I planted the golden raspberries in two different positions to ensure that they would not die off.  Apparently they were well suited to both of these positions as they have all done well and spread nicely.

My golden raspberries starting to ripen

Like many other varieties of raspberry they have thorns (botanically these are 'prickles'), and it is a floricane variety, meaning that it will not flower or fruit on current year growth.  It needs previous year growth to flower and fruit.  This is why it often takes a while to get the first fruit but once they do fruit once they should fruit each year from then onwards.  My golden raspberries fruited around Christmas time and spread out the harvest for a few weeks.  I wrote another post on golden raspberry days to maturity.

This variety also has the habit of spreading roots under the soil and growing extra canes from the root tips.  This means that an investment in a few plants can quickly expand and fill in an entire patch.  I love how raspberries do this.

My golden raspberries taste much like red raspberries, except they are much sweeter.  They smell sweet and fruity, I really love the way they smell.  The fruit is super soft and delicate, this is perfect for home gardeners who will carry the raspberries to where they are to be eaten, but not great if you plan to transport it to supermarkets across the country, which is why you don't see many yellow raspberries in the shops.

The colour of golden raspberries is pretty remarkable, I am no photographer so my pictures don't do them justice.  They range from a bright golden yellow to a richer yellow on the same plant.  Birds seem to ignore the yellow fruit, then again birds seem to ignore red raspberries too.  Insects, slugs and children on the other hand do not ignore them and find them irresistible.  My kids comment on how they love the fruity smell of golden raspberries.

The plants seem reasonably productive and just as hardy as other varieties.  They don't appear to grow any taller or shorter than my other varieties.  In fact, when they are not fruiting I would not be able to tell them apart from many of the other varieties I grow.

Golden raspberry: something took a bite out of this one

The colour gets a tiny bit darker if left to ripen longer

Where to buy yellow fruited golden raspberry plants in Australia

Golden raspberry plants are difficult to find, please NEVER buy seeds from ebay as you will be sent seeds but not yellow fruited raspberry seed.  By the time you work it out, assuming that you get any to germinate, it will be too late to do anything.

Please don't buy from Diggers club if they ever claim to have golden raspberries again.  The utter contempt that they showed in their first botched attempt (and the many other times they have disappointed customers with similar disrespectful stunts) should be enough to warn you off buying from them. 

Over winter when my plants are dormant I will hopefully have a few extra that I can sell through my for sale page.  If all goes well I should be able to sell a few each winter.  Unfortunately I can't offer pre-purchasing as I would hate to have a crop failure or something and not be able to come through.

Golden raspberries starting to ripen

Oyster mushrooms on cardboard

I wrote another blog on how I grew oyster mushrooms on newspaper.

Another way I grew them was on torn up pieces of cardboard in an ice cream container.  This method was fast, but the mushrooms were small and it was difficult to keep the right amount of moisture in the cardboard.  It would have been better to use a larger container and have some holes in the sides of it.  I didn't think to take any pictures of this.

Days to Maturity Oyster mushrooms on cardboard

27/06/2017 damp cardboard inoculated with oyster mushroom stems  Day 0
01/07/2017 noticeable mycelium growth                                              Day 4
16/07/2017 cardboard fully colonised, more added                             Day 19
24/08/2017 fruiting (about 2 months)                                                   Day 58
28/09/2017 fruiting again                                                                     Day 93

Days to maturity oyster mushrooms on newspaper logs

I wondered how difficult it would be to grow edible mushrooms.  Mushroom kits are expensive, and many people who sell mushroom spawn charge a lot of money and often bang on about how they are amazingly talented experts and you will surely fail unless you pay for their advice.

So I decided to work out how to grow some edible mushrooms just using common sense.  I have grown many different plants, I have raised many different animals, I have studied mycology at university, how hard could it really be?  Button mushrooms grow on compost, I don't have great access to this and steralising it sounds like a hassle so I looked for something that grows on wood.

Paper and cardboard are made from wood and I have free access to these.  Oyster mushrooms (as well as a few others) grow on wood.  As it turns out, it is not overly difficult to grow edible oyster mushrooms at home.

I tried a few different methods to grow oyster mushrooms, all of which were free once I got the oyster mushroom mycelium to start with.  Some methods were easier than others, some produced larger mushrooms than others, some produced faster than others.  You can see in the pictures below that I had a few different things in the plastic bag.  I also tried a few different types of card board.  Turning a free waste product such as newspaper into something edible is always pretty cool.

One of the easiest methods I thought of was to make some fake logs out of newspaper.  Newspaper is often free and is easy to work with.  I made it damp, tied it together with string, inoculated this in one place with oyster mushroom, and then kept it in the wood shed in a plastic bag with the end open to allow in air and light.

Oyster mushrooms need oxygen to survive and contrary to what people may tell you they benefit from sunlight.  Every now and again I would dunk this in a bucket of water as the mushrooms need moisture to survive.

From inoculation to harvest was only about 4 months, this time could have been far shorter if I inoculated more than one spot.


02/07/2017   newspaper log inoculated with oyster mushroom    Day 0
13/11/2017   large mushroom fruiting                                          Day 133

Oyster mushrooms growing on newspaper

Maidenhair Fern

I wanted to get an office fern to make my day at work a little nicer, maidenhair ferns are always nice so I got one of them.

I have been told that this one is Adiantum raddianum but don't know for sure.  Many of the maidenhair ferns sold in Australia are A raddianum but there are a few other similar species as well as complex hybrids around.  After looking at NSW flora online I am pretty sure it is not one of the 8 native species of maidenhair fern.

My maidenhair fern was a tiny little fern when I got it, the fronds were only up to 6 cm long.  Over the past 12 or so months it has grown large, the fronds are now up to 38 cm long, and it has started to produce spores.  I plan to grow some more of these maidenhair ferns from spores when I find the time as growing ferns from spores is fun. 

The pictures from 2016 I had the pot sitting in a small 2 Liter white ice cream container.  Not long after the pictures were taken I re-potted it into a far larger 'self-watering' pot that was about the same size as that ice cream container.  The tiny fern looked silly in such a large pot but it quickly grew and filled its new pot.

Maidenhair fern 2016

My little office fern

Maidenhair fern 2017

The same office fern, only older and in a larger pot

Comparison of Thyme varieties

I have grown a bunch of different varieties of edible thyme over the years.  I haven’t disliked any but some are better than others.  Since writing this post I have done a better comparison of Jekkas thyme, have a look if you are interested.

I have always wanted someone to do a comparison of the different varieties of thyme, but the best I can find are some general words or exaggerated hype about just one variety, but no comparisons.  So I decided to write a quick comparison of some varieties I have grown and take some pictures to compare them. 

Before you read this please note the leaf size will vary on each plant depending on growing conditions, the photos will only give you a general comparison of plants grown under similar conditions.  All of the below varieties have survived for me through many harsh frosts, snow, and hail.

Each year I tend to cut the plants down pretty hard in spring, this encourages new growth and the trimmings can be planted and will usually grow new plants if watered a little.  Like many other leaf herbs, frequent harvests encourage it to produce and if left unharvested they can get a bit woody and unproductive.

All were same sized cuttings planted on the same day: Variegated lemon thyme, Orange peel thyme, Tabor thyme, Jekka's thyme

  
Comparison of Thyme varieties:

Regular thyme (aka Garden Thyme Thymus vulgaris) is a good edible herb, not surprisingly it smells and tastes of thyme.  The leaves are tiny and green.  It is meant to be drought hardy and frost hardy.  For some strange reason I have trouble growing it.  Random things happen that can’t be the fault of the variety such as my kids pull it up or the pot gets knocked over and one of the kids kicks it under a shrub where I can't find it.  It just hasn’t had a chance to thrive for me.  It is not included in the comparison photo as it looks tiny in its pot.  It is simple to strip the tiny leaves from the twigs. 

Silvery posy thyme (Thymus sp) is a lovely edible thyme.  The leaves are the same size as regular thyme but are variegated and interesting.  We grew it for years, it smells and tastes and is used just like regular thyme but is far prettier.  Mine was vigorous and strong, unfortunately being variegated means it does not cope with hot dry weather as well as all green varieties can.  After growing it in an arid climate with one too many weeks in a row where day time temperatures exceeded 40 Celsius it died, and I didn’t replace it.  Now that we have moved near Canberra I should get another one as it grows well here and I miss it.  

Thyme leaves back and front, from left to right: Garden thyme, Lemon thyme, Variegated lemon thyme, orange peel thyme, Jekka's thyme, Tabor thyme

Thyme comparison from left to right: lemon thyme (this plant is older than the rest), variegated lemon thyme, orange peel thyme, Tabor thyme, Jekka's thyme

Lemon thyme (Thymus citriodorus) is another great edible herb.  I have been growing my plant for over 9 years, it takes strong frost and heat/drought and has survived for me through some rather extreme conditions.  It has tiny leaves of a similar size to regular garden thyme that are green and smell like thyme and lemon.  Stripping the tiny leaves from the twigs is simple.  This plant is usually very productive and very hardy in heat and cold.

Left to right: Tabor Thyme, Variegated Lemon Thyme, Jekka's Thyme

Left to right: Garden thyme, Lemon thyme, Variegated lemon thyme, orange peel thyme

Variegated lemon thyme (Thymus citriodorus) tastes and smells the same as lemon thyme but the leaves are variegated.  Variegation varies from leaf to leaf and from branch to branch, some branches are whiter than others.  It probably does not take extreme heat as well as the green form, but it is a little prettier.  Stripping the tiny leaves form the stems is simple.  I will probably grow more of this as it is useful and pretty.

Left to right: Orange peel thyme, Jekka's thyme, Tabor thyme

Orange peel thyme (Thymus nitidus) is a low growing edible thyme that smells like a mix of thyme and spices.  Sometimes it smells a lot like orange peel, other times less orangey and more spicey.  The leaves are thinner than regular thyme, but still tiny and green.  Stripping the leaves from the stems is not as easy as regular thyme but not overly difficult.  This is not only edible but people also use it to create a fragrant thyme lawn.  It is a bit of a slow growing thyme until established.

Tabor thyme on left, Jekka's thyme in right

Jekka's thyme (Thymus sp) is a strong growing edible thyme with relatively long leaves that are green.  This has a strong thyme smell and taste.  Jekka's thyme is a vigorous grower that doesn’t take long to grow into a large plant.  I assume that it would not take extreme heat as well as smaller leaf forms.  When the stems are young and green it is difficult to strip leaves from the stems, as they get woodier this is no longer a problem.

Tabor thyme (Thymus sp) is another strong growing, vigorous edible herb.  It has the largest leaves I have seen on a thyme plant and is the fastest growing thyme I have grown.  It has a strong thyme smell and taste.  When young it is difficult to strip large leaves from soft stems, as the plant gets older the stems get stronger and this becomes simpler.  Tabor thyme is not well suited to hot arid climates and suffers a bit due to its larger soft leaves.


Where to buy culinary thyme plants
Most garden shops tend to sell thyme, sometimes they have different varieties.  I really should take some cuttings and sell some of the thyme varieties that I have through my for sale page as some of the thyme varieties I grow were difficult to come by but are really rather good. 

Days to Maturity Golden Raspberry

One of the raspberries I grew this year was golden raspberry.

Golden raspberries are a yellow fruited variety of red raspberry (Rubus idaeus).  There are currently very few varieties of yellow fruited raspberries in Australia (there may only be this one at the moment) and this one is a summer fruiting (floricane) variety. 

Days to maturity Golden Raspberry (Rubus idaeus)

Seeds planted       N/A grown from divisions
Germinated           N/A
Flowered              10/11/2017        Day 0
Fruit Ripe              15/12/2017       Day 35

For a long list of berry and vegetable days to harvest please click here.

Golden raspberry

Golden raspberry