strawberry raspberry hybrid plants

It is time for another update on my strawberry raspberry hybrid. The plant still looks like a strawberry plant. While I took every precaution to prevent stray pollen I can’t ever be truly certain it is a hybrid unless it is independently tested by a lab, I will provide an update on that later in this post.

While the strawberry parent grows runners from a few months old this plant has never produced any runners.  I unsuccessfully attempted to divide the crown in early spring, for a while it looked promising has since died.  Unfortunately this means that all my eggs are in one basket.  I find this rather stressful.  I do have some other plants, but I really like this first one.

Note the greatly elongated petiolules and bumpy berry

The plant itself is still producing flowers that are subtended by a leaf, and they often have extra petals.  It is still producing leaves which usually have greatly elongated petiolules and the leaflets are sometimes oddly shaped.

It fruited a few weeks earlier in spring than the strawberry parent, and it produces more flower stalks and more flowers per stalk than the strawberry parent, making it a productive plant.  The strawberry parent produces up to 8 flowers per stalk with 5 to 6 being average while the hybrid is averaging 10 flowers per stalk.

Lumpy hybrid berry

The first few berries produced in spring tasted horrible, very sour, and not fragrant.  The first berries also looked different to last year, they were rounder and had very deeply set achenes.  As the season has progressed they started getting longer and tasting better much nicer like the previous year.  Most of the berries have all of the achenes on the outside just like a strawberry.

Three of the berries had achenes on the outside like a strawberry but also contained a small number of seeds internally within the flesh like a raspberry.  I am not sure why this was happening, it may be a genetic thing or may be a result of insect damage?  I have not taken a photo of this as it happens so infrequently.

In spring the plant was considerably larger than any of the parent strawberry species.  The petioles are much longer and thicker, while the leaflets are considerably longer and wider.  Petiolules are virtually absent in the parent species, but are often elongated in this hybrid.  Leaf size varies with the season so I try to compare it to the strawberry parent, and so far it is much larger.  I had a lot of plants of the parent species, and none of them was even close in size to the hybrid. 

The berries are white inside

I collected seed from the hybrid as well as from the parent strawberry.  It was not until I had two little bags of seed side by side that I noticed the hybrid achenes are larger than the strawberry achenes.  They weren’t all larger, some were the same size, but on average they were noticeably larger.

I had started to wonder if perhaps this plant was not a hybrid but was a result of spontaneous polyploidy.  Polyploidy can cause larger leaves and fruit, it can cause more vigorous growth and more flowering, it can cause odd flower structures and other morphological abnormalities, often polyploids taste comparatively insipid but sometimes they can taste good, and it could explain all of the difference I have seen.  I wanted to see if it was polyploid.  I took a sample of pollen from this plant as well as both parent species and observed them under a microscope.  Polyploid pollen is often larger than diploid pollen.  Surprisingly they were indistinguishable and none of the pollen was noticeably different.

I emasculated and bagged some flowers and attempted to pollinate them by hand.  I missed blackberry season last year and attempted to pollinate some with youngberry pollen and others with raspberry pollen.  Flowers that were not pollinated or were pollinated with youngberry aborted early, indicating that fruit set is caused by effective pollination and not through apomixis.

I want to try youngberry pollen or any of the blackberry aggregate this year as I have a feeling it may be possible.  Some of the raspberry pollinated flowers aborted late, and some appear to have been successful and were forming fruit until they were eaten by something in my garden.  If these were a hybrid then these seeds would carry three quarter raspberry genes and I would love to have seen what the resultant seedlings looked like.

Most have weird bumps and lumps for some reason

So far, everything indicates that this probably is a true intergeneric strawberry raspberry hybrid, but I can’t be certain.  I contacted a lab to get this plant tested to determine if it is a true hybrid.

After several attempts and being told that my request had been passed on and must have fallen through the cracks the lab eventually replied.  They said this specific testing has never been conducted, but it may be possible. They also warned me that as this type of analysis has not previously been performed it is unknown if there will be enough variation between the parental strains to determine if the hybrid is a true hybrid.  A brief literature search indicates that both parent species have been extensively studied, meaning that there is a high chance of this test being conclusive.

I provided them with further details, twice, and am still waiting for them to reply with pricing and further details.  Hopefully this is within budget and they are able to conclusively determine if this is a hybrid or just an interesting mutant strawberry.  I have no idea what a test like this would cost but I really want to know for sure if this is a mutant or is the first ever fruiting strawberry raspberry hybrid.  Who knows, I may turn to some form of crowd funding in order to cover the cost.

Below are some pictures of the berries, most have weird bumps or lumps, a small number look like the strawberry parent.  I have some other exciting news about strawberry raspberry hybrids, but that will wait for another blog post.

Edit to add: I sent samples of these plants to the CSIRO who tested them and determined that they are true intergeneric strawberry raspberry hybrids.  The results can be seen here.

Venus Flytrap - how I grow them

Much like most people, when I was a young child I was given a Venus flytrap (Dionaea muscipula). I was in awe of this marvelous plant and I instantly gained a deep love of carnivorous plants and gardening in general. I spent hours staring at the plant, thinking big thoughts, and imagining all sorts of fantastic and impossible things.

Just the same as happens with most people, my first Venus flytrap died.

A few years later I got another one, I can't remember if I bought it or was given it. This time I was a little older and I read everything there was to read about them - which was limited to the high level information on the tag and a few old and poorly written books by people who I doubt had ever successfully grown one themselves. Again I spent many hours staring at that fascinating little plant, fussing over it, carefully removing dead leaves, and thinking big thoughts.

Sadly my second plant also died.

After that I thought Venus fly traps were too tricky to grow or we were in the wrong climate for them. I am happy to say that neither was true, Venus flytraps are actually very easy to grow if you know how and I was in the perfect climate for them.

Venus flytraps, easy to grow when you know how

A few years later when I had not yet started high school I bought a tiny sundew (Drosera capensis) from a fair for $0.50. I loved that plant. This plant lived for many years and from it I learned how to actually grow carnivorous plants successfully. After starting with one sundew and growing seeds and cuttings to end up with literally hundreds I decided to give the Venus flytrap another try.

I got a Venus flytrap bare rooted through the post.  This plant not only thrived but each spring would divide into a bunch of extra plants. I even grew a few from seed, which is a very slow but rather fun process. Then I went to university, got a job, moved a lot of times, and stopped growing carnivorous plants for years.

I have started to grow Venus flytraps again and am loving them. They are heaps of fun. There are so many new varieties now that never existed before.

I figured I should tell people how I grow Venus Flytraps and perhaps more people can enjoy growing them too. This may not be the best way to do things, but it works for me, it is cheap, and it is easy.

I find it simple to grow Venus flytraps: give them lots of clean water, give them sunlight, and don’t ever try to close the traps. That is simple enough.

Venus flytraps in a tray of water - honey bees like to sip water from the pots

A friend did a guest post on how to grow carnivorous plants.  I thought I would write about how I grow Venus Flytraps because I find it rather simple.

By far the most important thing to know is that they are swamp plants that need a lot of water. They need so much water that I sit the pot in a tray, usually an old ice cream container, which holds a centimeter or two of water. I make sure the water is at least 5cm below the surface of the soil, any higher than that and the plants get stressed, lower than that is fine. When this water level drops slightly I fill it up again. I usually fill it up each day when I am watering the vegetable garden. The water tray should never be dry, ever, even for a little while. I don’t water from the top, I just fill up that little tray to its arbitrary (yet constant) level.

Far too many people try to water these like a house plant - this doesn’t work and they will die pretty quickly. Others put a shallow saucer under them, this evaporates too fast and your plant will dry out and die. Use an ice cream container or an old yogurt container, they are free and perfect for the job.

I am told that, depending on what is in your water, town water could be bad for them. I don’t have town water, I have a rain water tank so don’t have any personal experience with this. Rain water is the best if that is available.

These traps are closed as it caught ants, spiders, and things by itself

The second most important thing to know about growing a Venus flytrap is never close the trap. Never close the trap with your finger no matter how fun that sounds, and don’t try to close it with food of any sort. The leaf traps can only open a few times and the more they are closed the faster that leaf will die. The less leaves your plant has the less likely it is to survive.

Don’t try to feed your Venus flytrap. If you know what you are doing feeding is ok, if you don’t know what you are doing you will likely kill your plant. If you knew how to feed them you wouldn't have read this far through this blog post aimed at beginners.  Let venus fly traps catch food for themselves, they know what they are doing. Well-meaning people often try to feed their Venus flytrap and this often kills them. I know you are trying to help, but you are probably killing it.

Wally Venus Flytrap - needs more sunlight

Carnivorous plants of any type are not indoor plants, Venus flytraps need direct sunlight. Putting your new plant in your office and having the ceiling light turned on is not the same as natural light. You already knew this - otherwise you would wear a hat and sunscreen at your desk while getting a massive tan. Placing Venus flytraps on a window sill that gets sun is good, having them outside is better.

When you get a plant it likely has been kept under shade cloth (or in complete darkness while being posted) so transition it into the sun slowly or the leaves will burn and your plant may die. Depending on where you live they may benefit from growing under shade cloth, if you don’t have any shade cloth then at least try to protect them from the afternoon sun. Afternoon sun in summer, especially in Australia, can be a bit too much for them.

Don't put venus flytraps in a terrarium. I don't know how many people have cooked these plants to death in terrariums. While they can survive in a terrarium if it is in just the right place, they will die very quickly if it is not.  I also don't see the need to put them in a terrarium.

Venus Flytrap entering dormancy - looks dreadful but is actually ok

Venus flytraps are strangely ok with frosts. Venus flytraps are not tropical plants.  I have heard that people in places without winter dig them up and put them in the fridge for a month over winter. Mine don’t grow much over winter, and they usually aren’t quite dormant either. The leaves die back and new growth is smaller and lower to the ground - this is normal. Over winter I lower the water (or ice) level in their tray so they don’t rot, but I never let them go dry. 

In spring if they are large enough to divide then you can divide them. If it is not ready to divide then just keep enjoying them until next year. You will know that they are ready because they will have multiple growing points and multiple plants crowded together.

To divide I remove it from the pot, gently pull the two or more plants apart, and plant them in damp peat moss. There are a few things you could use but I use peat moss mixed with some clean river sand as both are cheap and easy to get. When you open the bag it will be too dry, you need to soak it before you plant into it. To soak peatmoss I tip some into a bucket, add some water, and come back later and it is nicely soaked. I then grab handfuls of wet peatmoss out of the bucket and squeeze it a little so some of the water comes out. Some people rinse the peatmoss a few times to remove nutrients. I do this and it probably helps but you don’t have to do it.

Venus flytrap flowers

Often after surviving winter Venus flytraps will flower in spring if they are large enough. They send up a tall flower stalk with unimpressive white flowers on it. Many growers remove the stalk pretty early as flowering takes a lot of energy and it can be difficult to get them to produce any seed. If you do remove the stalk you can use that as a cutting to grow more Venus flytraps. I should write another post on how to take cuttings from Venus flytraps, it is easier than you may think.

I grow a few types of carnivorous plants including several different Venus flytraps. As I build up their numbers I plan to offer them through my for sale page. I can post them if needed, they sulk a little after posting but outside of winter they tend to perk up pretty fast.

Growing Oyster Mushrooms in a cup

Last year or the year before my kids and I grew some oyster mushrooms in a cup.  It was heaps of fun.  I had forgotten about it until I found the photos.

The substrate was damp newspaper mixed with used coffee grounds.  The cups were used cups from something else.  I was surprised how productive each cup was.  We got 3 or 4 flushes of mushrooms, each smaller than the previous one.

Growing edible oyster mushrooms is incredibly simple and can be cheap.  I have stopped growing edible mushrooms for some reason.  I think it is because getting newspaper or logs to grow them on became too difficult.

I really should get into growing oyster mushrooms again.

Tomato Gene List

There used to be a comprehensive list of tomato genes on the web, then one day that page was gone.  I wish I had saved that list somewhere safe, but I didn't.  I really could have used it to decide on a few tomato breeding projects I was considering.

I searched and now have a long (twenty page) list of tomato genes.  Even though not all of these genes are present in Australia, this list can be very useful when breeding new varieties.

I tried to put a downloadable pdf file on my blog so it would be easy for me to find.  I just can't work out how to do that.  Instead I have a link to the pdf: Gene list pdf

Various tomatoes - understanding the genes can make it simpler to breed something new

Various coloured tomatoes

I also have the tomato gene list in word and excel, if that is more useful I can email them to you if you provide your email address.  To contact me there is a 'contact form' on the right hand side of the page under the page views.  If you are viewing this on your mobile phone please scroll all the way down and click on 'view web version' and you will then be able to see and access the contact form.

I do sell seeds of some of the tomatoes I grow, if you are interested they are listed on my for sale page along with various perennial vegetables and other interesting plants.

Purple cauliflower

I have grown cauliflower in the past.  To be honest they never really impressed me.  They seem to be a lot of work, and the end result is often no better than the ones I can buy from the shops.  I am also not terribly fond of their taste or texture, so I don't eat a lot of them.  All of this means I haven't grown cauliflowers in some time.

Recently my wife went to the market and brought home a purple cauliflower.  I have heard of them, but never actually seen one and never eaten one.  The purple colour of the head was rich and incredible.  I was pretty excited.

Purple cauliflower - I didn't grow this one

I have always been told that the purple colour mostly disappears during cooking.  So I was surprised and glad to see that the colour not only didn't go away, but it intensified somehow and became darker!

I have read hat the purple is due to high concentrations of a powerful antioxidant called anthocyanin and several other flavonoids.  I am also told that they contain significantly more vitamin A than white cauliflower.  I have read in many places that purple cauliflowers are easier to grow, but no one gives any details about that so it may just be wishful thinking rather than fact.

Purple cauliflower - raw and steamed

Purple cauliflower once steamed

We then put the steamed purple cauliflower in the over for a while, and the colour became so dark it was almost black in some places and smurf blue in others. It looked truly remarkable.

The taste was nicer than regular white cauliflower, it was almost a little bit sweet and a bit less cabbage like.  I want to eat more of this.

While I did not grow the cauliflower in the photos above, I think I should grow purple cauliflower in the future.  There are also bright orange cauliflowers, but I haven't seen them other than pictures on the internet yet.

If you are in Australia and grow purple cauliflower, or orange cauliflower, or any other interesting colours and have seeds to share let me know and I may have seeds or something to swap with you.  I have a 'contact form' on the right hand side just under the page views.  If you are viewing with a mobile phone you may need to scroll all the way down and click on 'web view' to be able to access the form.  If you are not quick I will just buy some seeds from somewhere. 

Giant Edible Dandelions

It is no secret that I like dandelions (Taraxacum officinale).  I honestly believe people should grow more dandelions.  I think they probably have more uses than just about any other temperate permaculture crop.

Dandelions take no real effort to grow outside of arid or semi arid zones or polar zones, they are simple to grow organically, they are perennial, they are forgiving of a wide range of conditions, the leaves are edible and more nutritious than almost every other vegetable, the roots are edible and nutritious, the roots can be made into a delightful coffee or tea, the flowers are edible and nutritious, dandelions flower most of the year to feed and attract a wide range of beneficial insects, native birds are attracted to their seeds, poultry and other livestock adore eating the leaves, they are great companion plants for a wide range of vegetables and fruits, the tap root can be very deep, they make excellent compost, and as a real bonus dandelions look very pretty.

Dandelion leaves for comparison - mine at the top, regular ones lower

I have seen people sell dandelion seeds and plants, and often wondered why.  Usually they are selling the same unimproved plants that you can find as roadside weeds, the same ones people try to spray out of their lawns.  These are edible and very useful, but tend to grow into small plants.

Dandelions are incredibly useful and far more nutritious than almost any other vegetable, so I decided to see if I could improve dandelions.  If dandelions were larger, more productive, and more vigorous they would be more useful as vegetables and more useful as stock or poultry feed.

Dandelion flowers are pretty

Dandelion breeding is strangely difficult as they usually tend to display apomixis. This means that cross pollination does not often work.  Each flower is very difficult to pollinate and often sets seed without any fertilisation.  I can't tell if cross pollination worked unless I grow out the seedlings fora long time.  There were a few dandelion breeding programs decades ago, so I read a few old papers and got a few ideas how to increase cross pollination success.

Dandelions tend to grow different depending on the environmental conditions.  When grown in the lawn and mown regularly they tend to produce shorter plants, when grown in long grass they tend to be more elongated.  Dandelions are perennials that also tend to be different sized plants at different times of the year.  All of this makes breeding improved strains far more difficult than I would have liked.

After a bit of work it appears that I did improve dandelions.  They grew larger, more vigorous, and more useful that the regular ones that can be found in the lawn.  My plants can grow huge if treated well.

Massive edible dandelion plant

Regular dandelion leaves often range in length from 10cm to about 25cm, sometimes a bit longer under the right conditions.  If they are to be eaten as vegetables this is a bit too small and you would need to grow a lot of plants to make a meal.

My dandelion leaves reach well over 50cm in length.  This makes them far more useful as leaf vegetables.  The roots grow very thick and long, which makes them far more useful.  Every part of these plants grows pretty big.  One single plant can be massive.

My kids were joking that these plants are so big they should not be called "Dandelions", instead they should  be called "DaddyLions".  I am not sure how I feel about that...

The flowers and seed heads are usually large and fat

My dandelion leaves grow huge

Often dandelion seedlings are exact clones of the maternal parent.  So while mine open pollinate, and there are plenty of wild type plants around that could act as pollen donors, there is a really high chance that each of the seedlings will grow true to type.  If not, then the seedlings should still be large as they would carry 50% genetics from the giant parent.

I now sell packets of dandelion seeds through my for sale page.  They have been grown organically and are open pollinated.  Growing conditions do have a large role on dandelion phenotype expression, so to get large plants they need good soil, full sun, and regular water.  Second year plants grow far larger than first year plants.

Breeding new black tomatoes

I have started to mess around with breeding new black tomato varieties.  I mean true black tomatoes, the ones that are high in a powerful antioxidant called anthocyanin, not the muddy brown tomatoes that often are called 'black'. 

I have some lines that are segregating and if they are any good will try to stabilise them over the next few years, and other lines are almost stable.  The deep black colour of some of my crosses are incredible.

Some of my ripe black tomatoes - their colour is incredible

When they are unripe, the tomato fruits take on an amazing purple colour.  The black is only on the skin, the colour of the flesh underneath the skin changes the colour of the ripe fruit.  To get the darkest black a clear epidermis appears to work well.

If the tomato fruit is red underneath, the colour of ripe fruit are not overly impressive.  If the tomato is yellow or green underneath it allows the fruit to take on an incredibly dark black colour when ripe.

These ones had black skin and green flesh

The ones that are green under the black taste the best so far.  Unfortunately they are far too difficult to tell when they are ripe, I can't tell if they are ripe unless I gently squeeze them, so I will likely not continue with those lines. 

Unripe fruit displays stunning purple colours when unripe

Some of these black lines are also heterozygous for the woolly gene, others are dwarf, some indeterminate, and others determinate.  I certainly want to keep the high anthocyanin fruit but have a few options with various other traits.

I will see what other traits pop out before I decide which lines to keep. 

The fruits get darker as they ripe

Interesting black/purple unripe tomatoes

I grow things very close as I lack garden space

These tomatoes are incredibly black

I am not intending to release any lines that are not stable varieties.  I may change my mind in the future, or I may eventually sell seeds of lines that I have stabilised.  If this happens they will be listed on my for sale page with other vegetable seeds, perennial vegetables, herbs, and other interesting plants that I sell.

Update: this variety has been stabilised, I call them "Tracey".