Leaf Cuttings African Violet

A few years ago I bought an African violet.  For some reason I don't see many African violets around these days.  They are lovely little ornamental flowers with no particular use that I can gather beyond being nice to look at.  

I have always heard that African violets are difficult to grow.  My one has been easy to grow.  It lives in a little self watering pot on my kitchen windowsill.  Every few weeks I fill up the water reservoir, from time to time I remove dead flowers or dead leaves, and I rotate the pot occasionally to keep the growth reasonably even.  Other than that it takes care of itself.

Up until recently it bloomed for most of the year, only stopping over winter when it gets too cold.  My original one grows large ruffled blue flowers, it is rather pretty.  It needs repotting and/or fertilising if it is going to keep flowering well.  Using leachate from my worm farm seems to be good fertiliser for African violets. 

At that start of winter I saw an African violet that had dark red flowers.  I had heard how simple African violets are to propagate form leaf cuttings, so thought I would give it a try.  I removed a leaf, put it in my pocket, and brought it home.  When I got home I mixed potting soil with perlite, put this in a pot, watered it until damp, and planted my leaf cutting.  

African Violet leaf babies 

I have heard that the plantlets are produced from the cut part of the petiole, and to produce extra plantlets you cut the petiole on an angle with the cut section facing up.  I did this, I also nicked the petiole a little further up to see if it produced any extra plants for me.

Several months passed, the leaf looked fine, but nothing really happened.  It can be very cold in my house over winter, so it is not unexpected that it did not grow during this time.

One day in early spring the potting mix looked like it had been pushed up near the base of the leaf.  I looked closer and saw several tiny leaves.  It looks like my leaf cutting worked, and the leaf cutting is producing several baby African violets.  

Now the weather has warmed, the tiny plantlets have started to grow relatively quickly.  The leaf itself still looks healthy.

I am still not sure how many plants it produced as the leaves of the baby plants are all close together.  It looks like this leaf has produced three or four little plants.  I am happy with that number.  

I am told if you slit the end of the petiole about a centimeter or two that you should get a much larger number of plantlets, but they will be a bit smaller.  I have taken a leaf cutting from my blue flowered plant and am trying this.  

African Violet leaf babies

Look how cute leaf babies are!

I plan to let these grow a bit larger before I repot them into individual pots.  If I divide them too early I risk killing them, if I wait too long to divide I risk stunting them, so it is a bit of a guesswork balancing act.  

I think they are ready to be transplanted now, but am planning leaving them to grow just a little larger.  I really don't want to lose them.

Leaf babies ready for transplant 

The mother leaf itself still looks remarkably healthy.  If I cut it off just above where the plantlets are attached, I wonder if I could reuse the leaf as a cutting to produce even more plants.  I would hate to lose my little leaf babies, so perhaps I will attempt this with another leaf at another time.  

It is early summer here now.  After repotting I have no idea how long until they will be large enough to flower, I am guessing it won't be before late spring or early summer next year at the earliest.  From everything I have read it takes about 6 to 9 months to flower after being separated.  

Edit to add: this post was written December 2023, the leaf babies were flowering March 2024, they had not yet been divided or repotted.  The leaf cutting from my blue African violet has just started to grow baby plantlets.  Perhaps the 6 to 9 months includes 3 months for the leaf to produce baby plants, and then another 3 to 6 months before they are large enough to flower.  I have been told growing from seed takes a similar amount of time.

I would like to get a few more types of African violet.  I don't have a lot of places in my house where I think African violets will thrive, so I will never grow a large number of them and will need to be picky about what varieties I grow.  

Once my leaf babies are larger I will probably keep one and offer the others for sale or trade, or I may offer to sell leaf cuttings.  If I do this I will try to list them on my for sale page along with the perennial vegetables, herbs, and vegetable seeds and things that I sell.  I don't plan of selling them before they start to flower and I work out the best way to post them, so this won't be until some time from now.

Variegated maidenhair fern update

I wrote a post a while ago on my variegated maidenhair fern.  I mentioned how I didn't look after it properly and it died back to a single frond, and how at that stage it was starting to regain strength.  

I was worried because variegated maidenhair ferns are rare and incredibly difficult to find, so if I lost mine I probably would never be able to get another one.  Variegated maiden hair ferns are really lovely, so I would hate to lose mine.

It has been almost a year since my previous post, so I thought it may be time for an update.  As you can see, my variegated maidenhair fern (top right of the following two photos below) is doing well.

Variegated maidenhair top right

Variegated maidenhair fern almost a year ago top right

On a side note, you may notice in the photos above that my tiger fern (top left) is smaller in the more recent photo.  This is because I divided it.  I am planning on keeping this little division, and growing out the other larger ones for sale.  Tiger ferns are hardy and fast growing, it should not take too long for this little one to grow back to its original size.  Enough about tiger ferns, let's talk about maidenhair ferns.

I grow my variegated maidenhair fern outside where it is under cover and slightly sheltered.  I had it inside my house for some time but there was not enough light for it, which meant it declined badly.  Outside on my verandah this plant gets hit by strong winds, over winter it gets some light frost, and it gets too hot over summer, but my maidenhair ferns perform surprisingly well out there.  

Too many people complain that they have killed a maidenhair fern, they usually blame the fern and assume they are difficult to grow.  Maidenhair ferns are not what I would consider to be very hardy, but they are simple to grow.  I wrote a blog post on how I grow maidenhair ferns.  While I am not an expert, they grow well for me, and that post explains how I grow them.  

I have grown this variegated maidenhair fern for almost six years, and I also have a green maidenhair fern (bottom right of the photos above) that I have been growing for close to eight years.  While I am not an expert in ferns, the longevity of these plants show the way I grow them works well.  

Variegation is different on each of the pinnules

Maidenhair ferns don't like to dry out, but they are not swamp plants.  I use self watering pots that have a little reservoir of water.  This ensures they have constant access to water but are not overly wet.  

I am told that maidenhair ferns do well in hanging baskets.  The ones I have seen in hanging baskets look incredible.  I don't grow these ferns, or any plants, in hanging baskets because I can't work out how to do it.  I can't work out how to water them easily, I worry that the wind will knock them down, and I don't have anywhere sensible to hang them.  If you have success growing things in hanging baskets I think a variegated maidenhair fern would look incredible growing in one.  

Any variegated plant will be weaker than an all green one, variegated maidenhair ferns are no exception to this.  Direct sunlight scorches their fronds.  They also don't cope with total darkness, less chlorophyll means they are less efficient at photosynthesis.  

Chlorophyll allows plants to photosynthesize and also acts like sunscreen.  Being variegated means they will burn easily, and be less able to cope with lack of light.  I grow them in 'bright shade' where they get an hour or so of direct light at sunrise.  Too much direct sunlight tends to burn them, but a little direct sunlight in the morning seems to be fine.  

Variegated Maidenhair Fern

I mentioned in my previous post how I would normally rotate my fern each week to ensure it grew out evenly, at that stage my fern was still weak so I was not rotating it.  This was a good idea and it worked out well.

My fern had little energy and only one frond.  It grew new fronds and orientated them to catch the light in the most efficient way possible, and it regained strength.  The fern grew a bit lop sided, but that was ok.  

Once it was a little stronger and a bit more healthy I started to rotate the pot a little bit each week.  This helped the growth to even out a bit, and my fern continued to get stronger.  It was still lo[p sided, but was less uneven and getting healthier.  

When my variegated maiden hair fern got even larger I would rotate the pot 90 degrees each week.  As you can see from the photo below, my fern now has reasonably even growth on all sides.  This is what I wanted it to do.  

Not only does it have even growth on all sides, but my fern is now reasonably large and healthy.  

Variegated maidenhair fern with even growth

If you have followed my blog you will probably have noticed that I am not a photographer.  Regular maidenhair ferns are graceful, variegated maiden hair ferns are incredibly graceful and even more elegant, my photos do not do it justice.  

I also realise that the photos I take of the entire plant don't really show the variegation.  While I don't encourage people to touch the fronds of maidenhair ferns, you can see the variegation a little more easily when I do hold my hand underneath.   

New fronds start out green, with lighter green where the variegation will develop.  As the frond ages the variegated parts turn white.  On each frond some pinnules will be entirely green, some might be entirely white, and most will have some amount of green and white.  My fern hasn't produces any entirely green fronds.

Variegated fern

Variegation

Maidenhair variegation

One thing I notice is that this fern grows a little differently than my other maidenhair ferns.  I was told it was Adiantum raddianum 'Variegata' but to be honest I am not certain about the species.  I grow a few different species of maidenhair ferns.  Perhaps my variegated fern is a different species to my other maidenhair ferns, or perhaps it is the same species with different growth characteristics.  

It is not quite as large as my other ferns, and I don't think it ever will be.  The fronds of my variegated maidenhair fern often reach 40cm, occasionally some of them reach 50cm.  I have a feeling that this is as large as they will ever grow.  My other maidenhair ferns have fronds that regularly exceed 50cm.  I think some of my other maidenhair ferns have potential to row quite a bit larger but are restricted due to the size of their pots.

The fronds of my variegated maiden hair fern are often divided at the tip.  You can see this in the photo below.  Not every frond does this, but it appears that most of the larger mature fronds do.   

Variegated maidenhair fronds tend to be divided at the tip

It appears that my variegated maiden hair fern is doing well.  I am tempted to try and divide it.  

Dividing my fern will set it back considerably, and will mean that its growth is no longer even.  I am not overly keen on this because my variegated maidenhair looks so large and impressive at the moment.  

Variegated maidenhair fern

Dividing it would also mean that I will have two of them, which will help to ensure that I don't lose it if the pot gets knocked over by a possum or something.  Very few places sell variegated maidenhair ferns, and the few that do seem to be sold out for most of the year.  

Variegated fronds

Variegation is different on each pinnule

My photos really don't do them justice

I like maidenhair ferns, and I really like this variegated form.  I should try to grow some from spores and see how much genetic diversity they have.  

I sell some maidenhair ferns through my for sale page, and if I ever have any variegated ones spare I will probably offer them for sale through there too.  

Unless I grow a lot from spores, or have success with growing them using tissue culture, it is unlikely that I will ever be able to offer many for sale, but it is worth keeping an eye on my for sale page if you are interested in them.  

Raspberries: yellow red and black

I do a bit of vegetable breeding, I also breed other plants with various different aims.  

A number of years ago I bred a new variety of red raspberry.  I acknowledge that I am biased - I like this raspberry (Rubus idaeus).  It is genetically thornless, very vigorous, incredibly productive, produces dozens of flowers per cluster, fruits multiple times per year, and tastes nicely sweet.  This red raspberry performs better in my garden than any other raspberry variety I have grown.  I am told it does not grow as well in subtropical gardens.  

I eventually tracked down a yellow raspberry (Rubus idaeus) and did a little breeding with this too.  This one has thorns (prickles).  It only crops once or twice per year and has flowers in clusters of about half a dozen.  The berries are pretty, they smell divine, and it tastes very sweet.  What it lacks of the typical raspberry flavour it makes up for in delicate floral notes.  I need to do more breeding with this to create a thornless primocane version.  

After some years I got a black raspberry (Rubus occidentalis).  This is a different species of raspberry to the red (or yellow) raspberry.  It is not a blackberry.  It is not a loganberry.  It is not a youngberry.  It is not a mulberry.  It is not any other kind of berry, this is a black raspberry.  

It drives me crazy how difficult people seem to find the concept of a black raspberry in Australia, but I digress.  

Yellow, red, and black raspberries

My black raspberries have a rich complex taste and aroma.  It is not as sweet as my other raspberries (neither are store bought raspberries), but it is not what I would consider to be sour.  They have a nice taste, it does not taste the same as a red or yellow raspberry, and it is not meant to be the same as them.  It does taste a bit like a raspberry, but also very different.  Black raspberry tastes nothing like a blackberry, and tastes nothing like a mulberry.  There really isn't anything I have eaten that they taste similar to.

I am bad at describing taste, my description above really doesn't describe it well.  The internet says black raspberries are "tangy, richly flavored, mildly sweet, cooling, and high in antioxidants".  I am not sure that description is all that much better than mine.  

Yellow raspberry, red raspberry, and black raspberry 

You will probably notice that the berries are a bit smaller than red or yellow raspberries.  My comparison photos are all typical sized berries.  Some berries from each plant are larger or smaller, but the ones in the photo give you a decent idea of what is normal.  While black raspberries are smaller, they are still a decent size.  While I would prefer them to be larger, I don't find them to be too small. 

These plants are not what I would consider to have low productivity, and they do not blow me away with the size of the crops.  They usually produce clusters of about half a dozen flowers.  This is comparable to most raspberry varieties including my yellow raspberries, but it feels like nothing compared to my red raspberry which produces dozens per cluster.  

In my garden my red raspberries have the longest picking season.  They start ripening first, finish last, and produce the most berries over the season.  My yellow raspberries start to ripen after the red raspberries have been cropping for a while.  My black raspberries start to crop once I have been picking both the red and yellow for a few weeks.  

Black raspberries grow well in my garden, but they need different management to red raspberries.  They have curved thorns, similar to a blackberry or a rose, and the thorns seems to grab at you when you walk past the plants.  This is worth noting if you want to grow one.

I grow mine in pots, they appear to do well in pots.  I have never had red or yellow raspberries perform well in pots for me.  

Black raspberries grow differently to red raspberries.  Red raspberries grow roots underground and send up canes from the tips of these roots, black raspberries do not do this.  Black raspberries will set down roots from the tips of the canes if they touch the soil.  

My black raspberries are a floricane variety, meaning that they flower and fruit on the previous season's growth.  This is good to know as it dictates the way you prune them.  

I don't prune mine at all and at this stage, but if I was pruning them I would need to ensure large canes from the previous year were intact so they could flower.  I imagine that tip pruning would encourage them to branch and be more fruitful.  I know that tip pruning my red or yellow raspberries increases the crop significantly as they produce 5 to 10 times as many flowers.

Much like my other raspberries, the black raspberries do not ripen all at once.  Each cluster will have some ripe berries and some unripe berries at the same time.  I pick them once ripe, and go back each day or so to pick more over the season.  A long picking season is great for home gardeners, but dreadful for commercial growers who have to employ pickers.  

It is simple to tell when the berries are ripe because they are black.  The berries start out green, turn red, and get darker until they ripen a black colour.  Ripe berries will pull away from the stem easily, if they resist pulling from the stem they usually aren't ripe enough.  Raspberries have a hollow core once picked, blackberries and youngberries etc do not have this hollow core.  

So far birds seem uninterested in my raspberries of any colour.  They also don't seem overly interested in my strawberries.  Perhaps I am just lucky, or perhaps the birds are too busy stealing all of my plums and apples to worry about berries.

My black raspberries seem to have more seeds than red raspberries.  Perhaps it isn't more seeds, perhaps they are larger seeds.  I am not sure, all I know is they are more noticeable.  I don't find the seeds very annoying, but they do get stuck between my teeth more often than the seeds from my red raspberries.

Black raspberries are simple to grow from seed, but it takes a long time before you get the first crop.  I am growing out some seed at the moment, and once berry season is over I plan to root some of the can tips.  

If I have a few extra plants I plan to offer them on my for sale page.  I don't have any spare plants at the moment but I am expecting to have a few to offer when they are dormant in winter or early spring.  

Raspberry comparison

Flexi tub pond for vegetables

For over ten years I have been growing water chestnuts in a bucket.  It is simple, it is cheap, and it works well enough.  For the past seven or so years I also grew some duck potatoes and Chinese water chestnuts in a large flexitub with some soil in it.  

From this I got much the same result as I get from growing them in a bucket, but a yield of larger corms.  Strangely, I seemed to get a similar number of corms, but the flexi tub seemed to grow a lot more larger ones that were of edible size.  

Unlimited water, unlimited air, no weeds, aquatic veggies grow fast

As with the buckets, these tubs eventually degrade and fall apart from the sun.  Below are photos of a flexitub that I have been using as a pond, it has been there about seven years.  

The photos below were taken at the beginning of spring when the duck potatoes were starting to break dormancy.  You can see in the photo above that the duck potatoes get a lot taller than this and largely shade the water.  

Duck potatoes in flexitub

Being in a larger pond meant there was more room for soil, and the temperature doesn't fluctuate as much as the buckets.  I allowed azolla and duckweed to grow in there, eventually they cover the surface of the water and start to mulch down.  

Small birds come to drink from my flexitub, and dragonflies and water beetles seem to breed in there.  Over summer when the surface is covered in azolla, honey bees come and drink from my pond. 

The birds seem to prefer the larger tubs to the buckets, I like being able to provide some water for them over summer.  

Leaf litter breaks down to fertilise the plants

You may also notice that these larger tubs catch a fair bit of leaf litter and lots of flower petals, all of this breaks down to fertilise the plants. As the plants get taller they almost act as a net, catching leaves from the air, and depositing them in my tiny pond.  

The photos below were taken towards the end of spring.  You will notice a lot of growth happened over this time.  These plants have the best of all worlds.  They have unlimited access to fresh water, unlimited access to air, plenty of direct sunlight, lots of nutrients in the mud, never any weeds, and a healthy little ecosystem which captures and cycles nutrients.  

It doesn't take them long to grow large

Over winter I will add leaf litter from when I clear out the house gutters, and this combined with whatever else that lands in the water provides all the fertiliser needed for the growing season.

When it is windy the leaves capture anything that is blowing around and directs it into the tub.  This breaks down and feeds the plants.  Various insects such as dragon flies and water beetles breed in the water.  These insects eventually die in the water, and their little bodies eventually break down and feed the plants.  

Some insects that breed in there would fly away, taking nutrients with them, but this little tub seems to accumulate nutrients overall.  

Sadly these flexi tubs don't last forever.  You can see the one above is starting to degrade, it may only have another year or two left in it.  

I have had it in full sun, getting hit by wind, hail, heavy frost, and storms for over seven years.  While I would prefer it lasted a lot longer, seven or so years isn't too bad. 

These flexi tubs are great little ponds for emergent aquatic vegetables such as Chinese water chestnuts, duck potatoes, water celery, brahmi, and water cress.  If you were growing something like Lotus or Water Lillies they may do ok, but may benefit from a larger tub.  

Chinese water chestnuts 

Duck potatoes 

I have a for sale page where I sell water chestnuts and duck potatoes and other perennial vegetables in Australia.  I update the page regularly, and it has my email address that you can use to contact me.   

Water Celery Variegated vs Green

I have been growing water celery (Oenanthe javanica) for a long time.  I have had it since at least  2015, I possibly even grew it for a year or two prior to that. 

I grow the colourful and attractive variegated flamingo or rainbow form.  It has a bunch of common names including: water parsley, Java waterdropwort, Japanese parsley, Chinese celery, rainbow water parsley.  This is a very vigorous, and very simple to grow perennial vegetable.  

Interestingly, the native range of this perennial vegetable is a whole bunch of countries, including Australia.  

Variegated water celery

Water celery has amazingly strong growth, while it seems to prefer having its roots submerged and its leaves out of the water it can grow in deeper water as long as its leaves can reach the surface, or it can grow on 'dry land' like a regular vegetable.  

It handles hard frosts well, and tolerates extremely high temperatures if it has water.  Full sun and part shade both seem to work well for this plant.  

When water celery is grown in floating raft aquaponics it can be used to effectively filter the water.  I trialed it with my goldfish barrelponics and it worked well.  It can be used to filter grey water, it is good at removing pollutants due to its fast growth rate.  

Above all this, water celery is edible.  It tastes like mild celery, and loses much of the taste when cooked for too long so is best added towards the end of cooking.  

I am not a huge fan of celery, so tend not to eat much of it myself.  Chickens and guinea pigs and other animals enjoy eating water celery raw.  The times of year that we don't have much grass I feed handfulls of water celery to our animals.  While water celery is great in the compost, I prefer to feed it to the chickens as I think that is a better use.

For years I have grown the rather pretty variegated form, and it is a very vigorous plant.  I have heard when planted next to a pond it tends to take over somewhat.  

I am told that the pure green form is far more vigorous.  I originally wanted the green variety, but couldn't find it.  A few places sell this green one online, but I can't justify the price when I already grow the variegated one.  I had hoped mine would throw a non-variegated runner, but that hasn't happened yet.    

Variegated water celery growing out of its pot

My plants sometimes flower.  They start to set seed, then each year something happens and I don't get around to collecting any seed to grow.  Sometimes it gets too dry and the flowers are scorched, or something eats off the flower heads, or I just forget about it and have no idea what happened to the seed.

The last time my plants flowered, I forgot about them and they were largely covered by fallen leaves.  Recently I was clearing up that part of the garden and noticed a plant.  It looks like a tiny water celery seedling.  It appears to be entirely green.  I was lucky that I even saw this little one.  

This little plant is most likely seed grown.  

Dark green water celery

I carefully dug up this little plant, put it in a small pot, and moved it somewhere safe.  Since then it has grown very quickly and started to divide.  Hopefully it is even more vigorous than its variegated parent.  

The parent has pink stems, with light green leaves edged in white and pink or purple.  The colouration becomes more vivid in cooler weather.  It really is rather pretty.  

This little plant is darker green, with dark green stems and dark green leaves.  Presumably this darker green is from increased chlorophyll.  Extra chlorophyll means it should have a massive advantage when it comes to growth rate, and it should be more vigorous than its variegated parent.  

I can hardly wait to see what it can do.  

Non-variegated water celery

From here I hope this plant grows well, and in time I hope to divide it.  Given how much it has grown in a week I don't think this will take very long.  I haven't tasted this plant yet, hopefully it tastes a little stronger than the variegated one.  

I will try to post an update on this plant in a few months once it has had some time to do some growing and I have had a chance to eat a little of it.  

Green water celery

When I have divided this plant enough I would like to try some as the filter for my goldfish barrelponics as I think it may perform well there.  Vietnamese coriander grows exceptionally well in my barrelponics over the warmer months, but stops growing over winter.  

I have a feeling the green water celery may grow well over the cooler months, and a combination of Vietnamese coriander and green water celery should be an excellent water filter.  

Green Water Celery

Green water celery has grown and divided

I currently sell bare rooted plants of the variegated rainbow water celery, I have some perennial vegetables for sale and other interesting plants on my for sale page.  At some stage in the future I may also have some of the green version for sale.  I post perennial vegetable throughout Australia, but not to WA or Tasmania at this stage.  

Pineberry strawberry

A few years ago we bought some Pineberry strawberry plants.  Pineberry are an old variety of strawberry that are a little different.  

Pineberry is a very old variety that is said to be a hybrid of two species of strawberry, the South American Fragaria chiloensis, and the North American Fragaria virginiana but they may also have other species in their heritage and probably some back crossing.  

Pineberry strawberries

Pineberry are not F1 hybrids, they are not GMO, they are an older variety that was produced by normal cross pollination.  While I say they are not F1 hybrids, this does not mean their seedlings will be anything like the seed parent.  Pineberry are hybrids of hybrids, their seeds produce a wide range of diverse traits.

Most fruit are interspecific hybrids of several species, and all garden strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa) are a hybrid of several species.  This means the fact that Pineberry are a combination of various strawberry species is of no concern.  

Pineberry strawberries

I am unsure of pineberry's ploidy level.  Given that I don't plan to do any breeding work with pineberries, this does not pose an issue.  The seeds are viable, if planted they will not produce a pineberry, they will turn out to be a wide variety of different strawberries.  

It would be simple to breed a new variety of strawberry using pineberry as the seed parent.  Bag the flowers, transfer pollen from a different variety that has traits you like (such as larger fruit, day neutral, etc), and grow out the seeds.  You will know that it hasn't self pollinated as the plants are all female.   

Pineberry are smaller than garden strawberries

Unlike most garden strawberries, Pineberry strawberries only produce female flowers.  They need another variety of strawberry near by to act as a pollinator.  Most home growers tend to have more than one variety of strawberry, so this isn't an issue.  

The choice of pollinator won't affect the colour or the taste or look of the berries, so you don't need to worry about planting the wrong one.  Even if you don't have another strawberry variety, if you have a small block in town surrounded by neighbours there is a high chance one of them is growing strawberries, and insects happily (or to be more accurate, accidentally) transfer pollen for you.

Pineberry can not be grown from seed.  They are female plants, and any seed produced will be the result of pollination from a different variety.  Luckily they produce many runners and are simple to propagate.

Pineberry can be reasonably productive

Pineberry can be relatively productive, they produce numerous flowers which can turn into berries.  

Sadly, they only flower once or twice per year.  Pineberry are what is often referred to as 'June Bearing', a term comes from the Northern Hemisphere.  In Australia pineberries have one main flush of fruit which often ripens around November to December in my garden.  They can have a second flush of flowers or even a third some years, but this is not a given.

Pineberries

Pineberries can also flower profusely, and then abort all the flowers to produce no fruit.  I believe this is due to lack of pollination, or a lack of water.  

All strawberries need additional water to produce fruit in my garden.  

If no other strawberries are flowering nearby the fruit all aborts as pollination cannot occur.  I grow a bunch of different varieties of strawberry, so there is a good chance one of them will flower at the same time as pineberry and I can get a decent crop.

Pineberries are a little small

Pineberries produce berries that are white with red achenes (achenes are the things on the outside that people call seeds, the seed is inside this structure).  They are light green/white when unripe, it is easy to know when they are ripe as they get a pink blush.  If you cut one open, they are white all the way through.  

The taste and smell is reminiscent of pineapple, and they can be very sweet.  Occasionally mine taste sour and uninteresting.  I think this is due to lack of water or perhaps temperature fluctuations.  I don't tend to water my pineberries often, and I regret it when they fail to fruit well that year.  

Pineberries ripening

The berries themselves are noticeably smaller than garden strawberries.  Back when pineberry was easy to buy from nurseries or online everyone conveniently neglected to inform buyers of this fact.  

I have included a few photos of them next to garden strawberries for a comparison.  The comparison strawberries are a small-medium berry from a variety known as Melba.  

Melba and Pineberry

Pineberries grow well from runners in my climate, so you don't need many to establish a decent sized patch of them.  If you want to grow them, remember they are female plants that require pollination from another variety.  

I don't have the space or water or time to grow things that don't produce or don't taste great.  Pineberries are not my favourite strawberry, but they are good enough to retain a place in my garden.  

Ripe pineberries

Pineberries were popular for a while, and sold through Bunnings and as well as being carried by a few online seed sellers.  A few years ago these places stopped carrying them, I'm not sure why.  Perhaps they were not marketable once the fad had passed.  Now they are difficult to find and are once again drifting into obscurity.  

If you want to grow pineberries, I sell bare rooted pineberry plants through my for sale page.  Like all strawberry plants, they survive well through the post bare rooted.