Litchi tomato Solanum sisymbriifolium

A generous friend sent me some seeds of litchi tomato (Solanum sisymbriifolium) a while ago.  I had never eaten, grown, or even seen this species before so this was something new to me.  

Litchi tomato is also called Morelle de Balbis, vila-vila, sticky nightshade, red buffalo-bur, or fire-and-ice plant.  My kids call these 'prickle tomatoes'.

Litchi tomatoes - can you see why my kids call them prickle tomatoes?

Litchi tomatoes are somewhat related to tomatoes, tomatillos, and ground cherries.  Like many of the vegetables we grow, they are a perennial that is treated as an annual.  

I left my plants where they were over winter, fully expecting frosts to kill them.  To my surprise they handled mild winter with frosts down to about -4C with minimal damage.  I have no idea if they would survive a cold winter, but a mild winter didn't seem to bother them too much.

They flowered through winter but didn't set fruit in the cooker weather.  I transplanted them in spring and with warmer weather they started fruiting pretty quick.

Litchi tomatoes flowering

The leaves look deceptively soft and velvety, but have prickles on them.  The stems and fruit husks also have prickles.  The leaf shape varies a little from plant to plant, some have deeper divisions in the leaf while others are not as deep.

Litchi tomato leaf

Leaves look soft, but have prickles

I am told that they need more than one plant in order to set fruit.  I don't have heaps of space to use so I plant several plants in the one hole.  This ensures a pollinator is never far away.

I probably get less fruit per plant by having them this close, but it frees up space to grow other things so I am happy with the result.

I grow several plants in the same hole

Litchi tomato stems are prickly

Litchi tomatoes produce reasonably large, showy flowers that were white or bluish.  They varied from plant to plant but were always rather ornamental and showy.

Litchi tomato flower

Prickle tomato flowers

Flowers vary slightly from plant to plant

Fruit are born on a small truss with up to a dozen red fruits per truss.  I found they took a while to flower, then the wait from flower to ripe fruit felt like it took some time, once they started to ripen they were nicely productive.

Fruit can be harvested once the husk starts to turn brown.  Either individual fruits can be picked, or the entire truss can be snipped off and brought in.

I am told that ripe fruit slips out of the husk, but didn't experience that even once.  I assume different strains act differently, and this one does not slip from the husk.  

I was able to harvest carefully bare handed, but think using gloves would make harvest a lot faster and easier.

Litchi tomato truss

Unlike many other fruits, I found that picking them when fully ripe made them taste bland.  They were sweetest earlier, and got progressively less sweet and lost complexity of flavour the longer I left them.  

Their taste varied from plant to plant, as well as varying as the fruit ripened.  Some tasted a bit like cherry, some a bit fruity.  Some tasted like kiwi fruit mixed with something nice, I liked those ones the best.

Ripe Litchi Tomatoes

The fruit were glossy red on the outside, orange on the inside, and had a lot of small hard seeds in them.  

I didn't mind the seeds at all as I didn't really notice them, but my wife disliked them and found them annoying.

Litchi tomato fruit with seeds

I don't tend to grow many things with thorns and prickles.  Unfortunately Litchi Tomatoes have a lot of prickles on pretty much all parts.  

If you ever grow Litchi tomatoes be sure to stake or cage them to prevent them sprawling, and try not to grow them anywhere that you will be brushing past.

Litchi tomato - so thorny

I am glad I got to grow these, and I am growing the overwintered plants again this summer.  I really like the taste, plus the plants are intriguing and ornamental, so will likely grow them most years.  

I don't have endless space, and there are a lot of things I want to grow, so going forward may have them on rotation and grow them every second year.

I do sell seeds of Litchi tomatoes, as well as a few other interesting edibles and perennial vegetables in Australia through my for sale page.

Utricularia subulata cleistogamous and chasmogamous flowers

Utricularia subulata, the zig zag bladderwort, is a small terrestrial carnivorous plant.  The leaves are tiny and often go unnoticed even among other tiny carnivorous plants such as pygmy sundews.

This carnivorous plant grows easily from division and far too easily from seed.  

Utricularia subulata flowers

U subulata flowers

This terrestrial bladderwort has lived in my carnivorous plant collection for quite some time.  

For years they have produced tiny flower stalks with cleistogamous flowers.  These were spherical flowers with no petals, these flowers never open yet they self pollinate and produce copious amounts of seed.  

These uninteresting flowers that never open seem to spread seed everywhere, as such I do my best to pull them out whenever I see them.

This year my Utricularia subulata sent up rather tall flower stalks and chasmogamous flowers.  

These are larger showy flowers that do open and do have petals.  These flowers look rather nice.

Utricularia subulata flowering

Flowers of Utricularia subulata

U subulata in a pot with pygmy drosera

This plant has been growing in my carnivorous plant collection for a number of years, under a variety of different conditions, and has never flowered like this before.  

I wish I understood what conditions it requires to send up flowers like this because they are nice.  

Variegated water parsley Oenanthe javanica (flamingo)

Variegated water parsley Oenanthe javanica (flamingo), is also called water celery, water parsley, Java water dropwort, Japanese parsley, Chinese celery, rainbow water parsley, minari (미나리), and has a bunch of other common names.  

Variegated water celery is a perennial vegetable or perennial herb that is very simple to grow and very productive.  I am told that this perennial  vegetable has a native range that extends between Siberia, Tropical and Subtropical Asia, India, Papua New Guinea, and some of the northern parts of Australia.  

Strangely this plant appears to be distributed across a lot of tropical places, yet survives harsh frosts with no issues whatsoever.  I think any plant that is native to tropical Asia as well as Siberia to be rather perplexing.  It also means that this plant is likely to survive anywhere as long as there is enough water and sunlight.  

As this plant can survive and even thrive across such a wide environmental range, and given how productive it is, I don't understand why it is so uncommonly grown.

Variegated water parsley

I wrote another blog post on this plant back in 2017 and had already been growing it for a few years at that stage.  I still have the same plants, they continue to thrive with less than ideal conditions and a lot of neglect.  I had wanted the all green form as I am told it grows more aggressively, but I only have the far prettier variegated one.  

I have been growing variegated water parsley for a few years, and it has to be one of the easiest of edible plants to grow.  Even the 'weaker' variegated form grows like mad in my garden.  Even though it is very productive we don't tend to eat much of this plant, I do feed it to our animals and enjoy how ornamental it looks.

Variegated water parsley leaves

Water celery plants love water so much that they can grow with roots submerged and leaves above water.  I have grown some like this in a bucket of mud for several years and they look great and perform well with no care from me other than topping up the water from time to time.  I also grow some on a pot of water that is floating in my goldfish barrel, it seems to perform well in these conditions too.

They can also be grown in regular garden soil with regular watering.  They don't appear to die if grown in drier soils, but also don't perform their best without watering.  They are rather vigorous and forgiving of less than ideal conditions.

Variegated water celery loves to spread

Variegated water celery flowers but I have not yet been able to grow any seedlings.  Unfortunately I tend to loose track of the flowers and have never found out if they can produce fertile seed.

I find that the plant grows some underground rhizomes and divides a bit in this way.  

This plant also throws above ground runners similar to what strawberry plants do, and it divides quickly in this way.  Last year I grew some in little pots to sell at a garage sale, and they grew runners that spread into all the nearby pots of other plants.

They can handle full sun, but seem to do better with a little shade.  If they are in too deep shade the leaves get stretched and it throws runners in search of sun.  I assume the all green form can handle more shade than the variegated form.

Variegated water celery leaves

Water celery tastes and smells a lot like weak celery, and a little like parsley.  It is not the strongest flavour, and it gets weaker with cooking.  It can be eaten raw, or added at the end of cooking.  

As well as being edible by people, animals can also eat this plant.  Chickens, guinea pigs, ducks etc all seem to enjoy eating the leaves.  Given how nutritious this plant is, and how quickly it can grow, this is a good thing.

The leaves and stems of this edible herb are various amounts of green, white, pink, and are pretty all year.  In cooler weather, or while the plant is under any stress, they tend to get a lot more of the pink colouration.  Sometimes the leaves go a bit purple, this is usually an indication of stress.  Harsh frosts can cause this purple colouration.  It doesn't seem to change the taste, so is not a problem.

I planted one small plant in each of the pots below, each of them has divided quickly into multiple plants and also sent out a few runners.  It is difficult to see in the photos below, but most of them have also grown out of the drainage holes.  This plant likes to survive!

I sell bare rooted plants of variegated water celery through my for sale page.  I don't expect to ever run out of this plant, ever, so if it is not listed on my page feel free to ask me about it.  

Pinguicula flowering

I got some Pinguicula butterworts a few years ago.   Butterworts are carnivorous plants that have sticky leaves, similar to sundews but without the glandular hairs.  They prefer to be a lot drier than most species of sundews, but still require a lot of water.  

I grow them with a wick that goes down into a reservoir of water, similar to how I grow African violets.  They seem to like similar light levels to African violets too.  I have been told by a very knowledgeable grower that many species of Pinguicula should be grown almost exactly the same as African violets, just without the fertiliser.

They have grown well in the time that I have had them.  They go reasonably dormant over winter and get chubby little non-carnivorous leaves.  Then once spring arrives they grow larger carnivorous leaves again.  

Pings are such lovely little carnivorous plants.  

This year as they are emerging from dormancy one of them is flowering!  

Looking at the flower I can't imagine that they are self pollinating.  Given their morphology I don't think I have the ability to pollinate this one without destroying it.  So chances are it will not produce any seed.  

I don't care about that too much, I am enjoying growing these plants and think the flower looks nice.  The flower has stayed on the plant for a few weeks now, which was unexpected.

Segregation and culling micro woolly blue tomato project

My micro dwarf woolly blue tomato breeding project is making more progress.  There are still a few years before this project will be completed, but I think it is time for another update.  

I have written earlier blog posts on micro tomatoes, and high anthocyanin (true black) tomatoes, and woolly leaf tomatoes.  

I wrote a previous blog post on my attempt to cross a micro dwarf tomato with an angora leaf tomato, in the hopes of breeding a micro woolly tomato with blue/black fruit.  I also wrote an update on progress and the F1 plant.  

Tomato seedling - woolly foliage 

I successfully made the cross between the micro tomato and the woolly leaf high anthocyanin tomato, and I grew out an F1 plant.  I saved a lot of seed from the F1, and planted some of that seed this winter/spring.  I planted a lot of F2 seeds so that I could cull really hard and hopefully get what I am hoping for reasonably quickly.  My original goal was to produce a micro dwarf woolly leaf plant with blue/black fruit.  

The F2 seedlings will display a lot of genetic diversity.  Some were easy to cull from a very young age, while other genes won't be displayed until later so the seedlings needed growing out for longer.  

The first cull was pretty simple:  

Some plants were tall, they were culled quickly as they are easy to see from a young age.

Some plants will be dwarf, and others will be micro dwarf.  It can be difficult to tell these apart when they are seedlings.  These will be kept until they grow larger as I would hate to cull a vigorous micro dwarf.  Also if I have too few keepers I may want to keep some of these dwarf lines for back crossing and produce micro dwarfs from them.  

Out of the remaining dwarf and micro-dwarf plants the next cull was also reasonably simple:  

Some plants have regular leaf, they were quickly culled as they are simple to see from a young age.

Some plants will be heterozygous for woolly leaf and are kind of woolly, others will be homozygous for woolly genes and will have very fluffy leaf.  All of these will be grown out until later.  Again I don't want to kill off any heterozygous woolly leaf plants as I may want to keep these lines to produce true homozygous angora leaf lines.

Tomato seedlings - needs more culling

The dwarf and micro dwarf woolly leaf plants are going to be grown out until larger.  I plan to keep every micro dwarf woolly leaf tomato plant.

These may have different fruit colour, some may be red, others yellow, and I would kind of like some of each.  As well as this they could have various amounts of anthocyanin, ranging from none to very dark black.  It is difficult to tell at this young age so I will have to grow out a number of plants.

I planted dozens of seeds, and have a bit left over for another try next year if this doesn't work out.  At this stage there are several plants that appear to be micro dwarf and woolly.  I plan to keep them and hopefully save seed from them.  Even if none of them are what I am after I may be able to cross them with something that has the missing genes and eventually develop what I am wanting.

One of these F2 seedlings in particular appears to be high in anthocyanin as the leaves are displaying a high degree of purple colouration.  It is too early to know for sure, but it fills me with hope.

Several potential keepers, others need culling

While my goal was to produce a micro dwarf woolly leaf plant with blue/black fruit, I may or may not achieve that this year.  Even if I do achieve that, I still have a number of generations to grow out before the line will be stabilised.  

I am happy to say that micro tomatoes have short generational times, and I can usually get 2 or 3 generations per year (sometimes even 4).  I am also working a lot with recessive and partly recessive genes.  This means that stabilising lines of micro dwarf tomatoes may take a lot of generations, but this should hopefully be completed in a small number of years.  

Working with recessive (and partially recessive) genes also means that in the early stages when the line is not yet stable they should retain all of the traits that I want to see in each future generation.  It shows progress, which is good to help keep up the motivation to bother breeding things like this.

Things have progressed a little since I took the photos, plants have grown, I have culled more plants, there are still some unknowns, and I have a few really promising fuzzy little tomato plants.  I can hardly wait to see what these grow out to be.

At this stage I plan to grow out every micro dwarf with woolly foliage, and start a few different lines from them.  I may or may not grow out and collect seed from any of the other promising plants.  If all goes well I will have several different fruit colours in my micro woolly lines before too long.  

I really want a high anthocyanin micro woolly line, and I may be able to achieve that on both red fruit as well as yellow fruit.  Only time will tell.

Variegated tiger fern 6 month growth

Around six months ago I got a variegated tiger fern (Nephrolepis exaltata 'Tiger fern').  This is a variegated form of Boston fern.  There aren't many types of variegated fern around, but there is something about variegated ferns that I really like.  

My tiger fern was a good looking little fern, and when it arrived was in the tiniest pot ever.  I repot the thing the day that I got it and it has been in the same pot ever since.  

The picture below if of my tiger fern after it had grown and survived winter living outside in a sheltered position.  

Tiger fern after surviving winter

I repotted my little fern immediately and it has been growing in its new pot ever since.  The picture below was just after repotting, and the picture below that is far more recent.  

As you can see, my variegated tiger fern grew quite a lot in the months that I have had it.  I am happy to say that these ferns are pretty easy to grow.

Tiger fern just after being repotted

The same fern, same pot, six months later 

I particularly like the foliage of these variegated ferns.  Each frond looks different, some are dark green, others are variegated to different amounts, and others are lighter green.  They are an easy to grow fern that is quick to grow and relatively hardy.  They aren't overly fussy about soil type, are able to cope with drier soil than many ferns, and appear to tolerate a wide range of temperatures.

One fun thing about these ferns is that they divide throughout their growing season.  My original fern looked strong, then just before winter I divided it because I was not sure how well it would survive my winter and wanted to ensure that at least one would survive.  I kept the larger plant outside in a spot that was protected from frosts, and I put the baby fern in my greenhouse.  

While dividing heading into winter is not great, I figured it the outside fern died I could restart from the baby.  I also wanted to learn if they could survive outside in my climate if somewhat sheltered from the harshest of frosts.

The plant that was kept outside got some damage from the cold, but looks healthy overall.  Now that warmer weather is here it should start to grow again.  That is great to know because it means I don't have to worry too much about these things over winter.

The plant in the unheated greenhouse was not damaged by the cold.  It is still looking really nice.  This plant also didn't grow very much as it was too cold.  Now that the weather is milder it should grow fast.

Baby tiger fern in greenhouse

As you can probably see in the photos, the baby tiger fern is already a bit larger than the original fern was when I got it.  This little fern looks like it should be ready to divide once the weather warms.  I probably won't divide it yet as I would prefer that it fills out the pot I have it growing in.  

The larger fern sustained a little damage over winter as it was growing outside under shelter.  It was out of the frost, but the temperature was slightly below freezing and it was blasted with icy winds on and off throughout winter.  It is pretty hardy and should bounce back soon enough.  

I could either divide this larger tiger fern into several small ferns, or I could allow it to fill out its pot.  I'm thinking of breaking off one division, and allowing the rest to fill out its pot.  

Variegated tiger fern

These things grow pretty fast and look great when they are completely filling out their pot.  They don't look as amazing when they are a new tiny division with only a few fronds, but I think they are still pretty cute at that stage.  

Variegated Boston ferns also grow pretty fast once winter is over, so they don't stay looking tiny for too long.

Baby maidenhair ferns

As well as my tiger ferns I also grow a bunch of maiden hair ferns and a few other ferns including some baby tree ferns.  

My little maidenhair ferns were spore grown, and some are native species.  I like native maidenhair ferns as they tend to grow differently to the exotic species.  Some of these little ones are spreading by rhizomes and a few are even popping out of their pot's drainage hole.  My exotic maiden hair ferns never grow like that for me.

My oldest maidenhair fern looking shabby at the end of winter

This bird nest fern is over 20 years old

Most ferns are perennial and can live for many many years if treated well.  I got my oldest maidenhair fern in 2016, and I got my oldest birds nest fern back in 2001.  While they look a little shabby at the end of winter and each have a little damage to their fronds from the cold and wind, both are still growing well and should look great in a month or two after they recover.  Ferns are a long term investment!

If you would like one of my little ferns (my older ferns are not for sale), including spore grown native maidenhair ferns, they will be listed on my for sale page.  If they are not listed there feel free to contact me as I may have some for sale but not large numbers of them.

Perennial corn survived winter

Last summer I grew some perennial corn Zea diploperennis.  I am very excited to say that some of my perennial corn plants survived winter and now that the weather is warming are happily growing!  

Zea diploperennis is a perennial undomesticated ancestor of our modern corn.  I am not sure if this particular species was used in breeding modern corn, or if it is just closely related to the species that were used in breeding domestic corn.  What I do know is that it crosses with modern corn and with various undomesticated teosinte corn species.  

My understanding is that perennial corn is pretty uncommon, and it is incredibly rare in Australia.  I had never grown, or even seen, perennial corn plants before so this was somewhat of an adventure and a learning curve.

The cobs from diploperennis were small and contain far fewer seeds than domestic corn.  I don't know if first year cobs are smaller than subsequent year cobs, but have a feeling that they are never large and never contain huge amounts of seed.  

All modern corn varieties are annual which is great for large scale chemical dependent monocropping.  A perennial corn would be wonderful for home growers, permaculture farming, and low input polyculture food forests.  Perennial corn plants are simple to grow and resistant to may pests and diseases that affect modern corn, which makes them useful in breeding something that is better suited to backyard growers who don't want to spray anything.  

I am told that this corn contains roughly 85% diploperennis genetics and about 15% domestic corn genetics.  Having a small percentage of domestic corn genetics should mean that this will flower around the same time as other corn varieties, making it easier to cross breed and produce a perennial popcorn or perennial dent corn.

Z diploperennis divided into two plants - red stems

I'm not sure how perennial corn would grow in a warmer climate, but where I am it dies back to rhizomes over winter.  Some plants have robust rhizomes that appear to have divided a lot, while others had weaker rhizomes that did not divide at all.

Perennial corn is not well suited to my climate, the frosts are just too harsh here.  It would be well suited to conditions with milder winters.  I was uncertain if it could survive winter here but I did not want to grow it from seed each year and have yet another perennial vegetable that I treat as an annual.

To give it the best chance of surviving I grew it in pots which I moved to an unheated greenhouse over winter.  This meant that it was still very cold, but the soil would not freeze.  I learned a lot from this, and by in large it was successful.  I believe that this would probably survive in the field if it was mulched.

Zea diploperennis divided into two - green stems

Some plants did not survive the winter.  These were no great loss, they were not cold tolerant and did not contain the genes required to build a perennial corn landrace that could stand up in my climate.  

A few plants survived and started to sprout in spring, then were eaten by slaters and the plant died.  This is regrettable as the plants were good and would probably survive in the field if mulched well.  They clearly had some of the required genetics and their loss represents a loss of diversity that may have been useful in some other genetic combination.  They did not divide enough, which meant that they only had one growing point and they died once this had been eaten by pests. 

Some plants divided a little, as can be seen in the above pictures they had two growing points that had not been killed by pests.  As can be seen above there is considerable diversity among these survivors.  Some have green stems, others have more red on the stems.  This diversity carries over the the colour of the seeds and cobs and is likely present in all of their genetics.  

Perennial corn flowering 

Genetic diversity is great as it means we should be able to cross things and hopefully end up with the right combination of genetics.  One of my plants started to flower as it was breaking dormancy.  We will see if anything comes of that flower and if that plant is worth keeping.

You may be able to tell in the photos, but I did not remove the previous year growth.  This was partly because the leaves stayed green and alive for much of winter, and partly because I thought they would help protect the growing points slightly.  Now that they are actively growing again it is time to remove the old growth.

Zea diploperennis dividing into many plants

One of my plants divided into several plants, I am not sure how many but it is a decent number.  This plant also had several stalks in its first year, and was the only of my plants to do this.  This is a trait that I want to keep when I try to breed perennial popcorn.  

I certainly don't want to reduce genetic diversity in the population at this stage so will not be only breeding from this dividing plant.  Given that it does produce multiple stems I assume it will produce a lot of pollen and will likely incorporate its genes into a lot of the seeds produced by my plants.

From careful poking around in the soil it appears that this plant produced several rhizomes which probably could have been split off from one another and transplanted.  These second year plants are certainly larger than seed grown at this stage, (especially considering that I have not yet planted corn seed for the year) so it will be interesting to see if they are more productive than first year plants.

Even if I never successfully cross this with modern corn this vigorously dividing trait would still be useful and highly desirable.  Even if I simply breed a population of dividing plants they can be used similar to other cereals such as wheat o oats, but with much larger seeds that are more nutritious and are far simpler to thresh at home.

Zea diploperennis cob

I have not divided anything yet as I have so few plants to play with and would hate to accidentally kill one.  Instead I am leaving all of these surviving plants as they are to see how they perform in their second year and hopefully produce far more cobs per plant.  

As you can see in the photo, the first year cobs were tiny.  I have a feeling that they could double or triple this size.  In other words I think that they will always be really small unless it is crossed with domestic corn.

Zea diploperennis cob size

I wonder if a clumping plant like this would be more productive or less work than a plant with a single stem as it may produce numerous little cobs.  It would be nice to be able to plant a perennial corn rhizome and then leave it to form an expanding clump that was increasingly productive each year.  The only way for me to find out if this is possible is for me to leave it and see what happens.

This year I don't have any spare plants or seed to share.  Hopefully all goes well and in autumn I will have spare seed and hopefully even some rhizome divisions from my more vigorous plants.  

If you are in Australia and interested in growing perennial corn feel free to get in touch with me around autumn/winter to see if I have any seeds to spare.  You can either leave a comment below or my contact details can be found on my for sale page.