Showing posts with label permaculture vegetables. Show all posts
Showing posts with label permaculture vegetables. Show all posts

Saturday, 22 August 2026

Growing Job's Tears (Coix lacryma-jobi): Harvesting Grain and Overwintering This Unusual Perennial Plant

Job's tears (Coix lacryma-jobi) is one of those unusual plants that seems almost too interesting to be real.  It produces edible grain, ornamental bead-like seeds, useful livestock fodder, and in warmer climates can behave as a perennial crop.  It is both practical and strangely beautiful, which is why I wanted to see whether it could survive the winters in my part of southern Australia.

Job's tears - various colour on same plant

Growing Job's Tears

I first grew job's tears almost 20 years ago.  Back then seeds were easy to find, and many online seed sellers carried packets of these seeds.  I bought some seeds back then, planted them in the vegetable garden, the plants grew and looked like cute tiny corn plants.  

My plants produced seed, but shortly afterwards we moved house and had a new baby, so the seeds were forgotten among all the chaos of that time. 

Job's tears seeds can be used like beads

Job's tears is perennial in tropical and subtropical climates, but is usually grown as an annual in cooler regions.  I was keen to see whether it could survive winter here, but we moved before I had the chance to find out.   

For some reason, finding seed for this has been really difficult lately.  Almost no one seems to be selling seeds of Job's tears at the moment, and the few places that do sell seed are expensive.  This made me especially keen to save seed from my own plant.  If it proves capable of surviving winter here, seed from plants grown under these conditions could be particularly interesting to keep and grow again.

Job's tears plant looks like tiny corn stalks
Job's tears beginning to tiller

In spring 2025 I got a small Job's tears plant.  As I only had one Job's tears plant, I put it in a pot in my greenhouse because I wanted to protect my only plant from out of season frost and give it the best chance of surviving while I learned how it behaved.  In hindsight, it may have grown better planted directly in the garden, although it still performed reasonably well in the greenhouse.  It went ok in the greenhouse, so I decided to leave it in the greenhouse, and see if it can overwinter there. 

Job's tears plants like water, so I put mulch over the soil surface.  This mulch was sawdust that came from the guinea pig house, this should add organic matter and nutrients as it breaks down.  I also put a bit of azolla under the mulch, this will break down quickly to fertilise the plant. 

It didn't take my Job's tears plant long to grow a thicker and taller stalk, then it started to tiller.  Tillering is where the plant produces additional stems from the base.  Each new tiller can produce its own flowers and seed heads, so a plant that begins as a single stem can eventually become a productive clump.  I was pleased to see this because each tiller can produce its own seed heads, making the plant far more productive.

Job's tears tillering early in the season
Jobs tears tillering
Same plant, more tillers later in the season

I hoped to be able to remove one of the tillers and grow it as a separate plant.  While this looks like it should be possible, I worry it would damage my one plant, so decided not to try this yet.  

Next year I will try to grow several plants from seed, perhaps I will try to divide some tillers then.  Or perhaps I will grow enough from seed that I won't need to bother dividing a tiller.  My plant has a few tillers now and I am still tempted to remove one and see how it goes, but am trying really hard to leave it for now. 

My plant grew tall, then in big wind it got some damage.  The plant fell over and looked like the stem may have been partially broken.  I stood it back up, tied one of the leaves to the bench of the greenhouse to stabilise it, and hoped for the best.  

Fortunately, the damage must not have been too severe because it continued growing normally.  Once it grew taller, it began to flower. 

Job's tears flowering
Job's tears starting to produce grain

Flowering and Producing Seed

Like most grasses, Job's tears flowers are not overly impressive.  These are wind pollinated, so they don't need to produce showy petals or nectar or perfume.

The plant produces separate male and female flowers on the same plant.  The male flowers form hanging clusters above, while each female flower develops inside the hard bead-like casing that gives the plant its name.

If you look closely you can see two stigma poking out the top of each bead.  These will collect pollen, which will fertilise the bead and produce a seed.  The seeds will then need to mature and ripen, then dry a little before being harvested.

It feels like it takes forever from flowering until beads are ripe, but that is probably just me being impatient and it only felt like a long wait because I was impatient to see the mature seeds.

Job's tears producing beads

At this early stage all the beads were still all green.  Once they mature a little they get some nice colouration.  

The colour of the beads varies on the same plant, and also changes a bit depending on how mature the seed is.  The same plant can produce beads that are almost white, almost black, almost entirely brown, or a mix of brown black and white.  

I don't understand the colour genetics of this plant as there is little published data.  Unlike corn, whose colour genetics are well studied, very little seems to have been published on the genetics of Job's tears seed colour.

Various coloured beads on the same plant

This first year my plant began flowering around 8 January 2026.  It may have been slightly earlier, but that was when I first noticed it.

First beads were ripe from 23 February 2026, with most of the beads not being ripe until months later.  They kept ripening up until the frosts.  

This was one of the things I hadn't appreciated before growing Job's tears: flowering does not mean the whole crop will be ready at once.  The plant can have green, developing and fully mature beads at the same time.

Seeds ripening

Harvesting Job's Tears

Because this was my first crop, I was learning as I went. 

I harvested the mature beads by hand as they became ready rather than waiting for the entire plant to finish.  I kept some aside specifically for planting, because producing my own seed was one of the main reasons I wanted to grow the plant again.  

Job's tears seeds different colours

Can Job's Tears Survive Winter?  My First Attempt

Over winter a lot of the top growth was damaged, I expected this.  We had a relatively mild winter, and so far my plant appears to be surviving the light frosts.  I have the plant under shelter, and have high hopes it should survive the winter. 

If it survives winter and regrows in spring, I'll update this article with the results.  I'm particularly interested to see whether an established perennial plant grows larger and produces more seed than a first-year plant.

Job's tears tillering
Job's tears plant tillering over winter

Related Articles

I also grow a number of unusual and perennial food crops.  Here are some other plants I've experimented with:

Final thoughts

I'm glad I decided to grow Job's tears again after all these years.  It is an attractive plant, surprisingly easy to grow, and fascinating to watch from the first tillers through flowering and finally the development of its distinctive little beads.

This first season has answered some of my questions, particularly how long the grains take to mature and how a single plant develops from one stem into a much larger clump.  It has also raised another question: can this plant actually survive winter here and return strongly in spring?

I'm hoping to grow more plants from my saved seed next season and compare them with this original plant.  I'd also like to see whether an established plant produces more tillers and grain than a first-year plant.

For now, Job's tears has earned a permanent place on my list of unusual crops worth growing.


Friday, 24 April 2026

Perennial buckwheat seed

I have only been growing perennial buckwheat (Fagopyrum cymosum complex, also called Fagopyrum dibotrys) for a small number of years.  This perennial vegetable is mostly grown for its edible leaves, stems, and roots, while the annual species tend to be grown for their seed.  

Each year my perennial buckwheat flowers, but it seems reluctant to set seed.  In the few years I have been growing this, they have not set seed before.

I have a lot of plants, but they are all genetically identical, perhaps they have some sort of self pollination incompatibility, or perhaps the growing conditions were not right.  Based on what I am seeing now, I assume my clone is largely self-incompatible. 

Perennial buckwheat setting seed

I grew some perennial buckwheat in various different containers of soil, and I grew some in the soil.  Some was inside my greenhouse, some was growing outside.  I have a lot of plants, but they are all genetically the one clone.  I hoped growing them under different conditions may allow me to be lucky enough to get some viable seed.

This year, for the first time in my garden, the perennial buckwheat is setting seed.

Perennial buckwheat flowers are produced in huge numbers, the flowers are complete, they produce pollen, and they should be able to set seed.  For some reason, most flowers abort early.

The buckwheat inside my greenhouse flowered and was covered by many different insect pollinators over an extended period of months, yet not a single seed formed.  The perennial buckwheat plants grown outside in the soil are yet to produce a seed (I think this may be because it is a little dry where I grew them).  One container of perennial buckwheat growing outside is producing a few seeds.   

Sometimes when a plant is self-incompatible, if conditions are just right the plant can produce seed.  This plant is producing hundreds, if not thousands of flowers, over several months.  These flowers were visited by many different pollinators including honey bees, native bees, ants, wasps, flies, butterflies, beetles etc.  Some flowers opened in the heat, others with warm days and cool nights, others in colder temperatures.  Some were open when it was dry, others in rain, others with dewy nights or foggy mornings.  

Out of those hundreds upon hundreds of flowers I found a small number of developing seeds so far, and there is a chance more may be produced before the frosts arrive. 

Perennial buck wheat flowers

Perennial buckwheat produces a large number of flowers

The flowers are complete, should be able to produce seed, yet most abort

Self incompatibility in plants is not always 100%, even when there is genetic self incompatibility.  When a plant makes a huge number of flowers over an extended period of time, there is a chance a few might set seed.  That is likely what I am seeing here.

If the seeds are not eaten by something and are not destroyed by the nearing frosts, there is a chance none will be viable.  There is also a chance that one or more will be viable.  If I plant them, and if I am able to get at least one to grow to maturity, there is a chance that they will contain the same self incompatibility gene as the mother plant, and they won't be able to pollinate one another.  

Keeping all of that in mind, there is a chance that if I get a seed to grow that it will be different enough from the mother clone that they will be able to pollinate each other and I will be able to produce somewhat decent amounts of seed.  This is what I am hoping for.  

So many flowers, so few seeds

The one pot of perennial buckwheat that set seed

I had always heard that perennial buckwheat seed was much smaller than seed from the annual species.  So far it looks pretty similar in size to buckwheat groats I buy and eat.  Perhaps because this plant is producing so few seeds it is able to devote more energy into the seeds and they are larger than they otherwise would be.  

Only time will tell if I am able to get a genetically distinct second clone and am able to produce grain from my perennial buckwheat.  If I am able to get a decent harvest of seeds, I have no idea if they will be too small to be worth my time. 

While I would love to grow perennial buckwheat seed more reliably, I do grow this as a perennial leaf vegetable and as animal feed.  This vegetable is very good at doing what it does (ie growing rampantly and producing a lot of highly nutritious leaves) so if it never produced grain for me I will still gladly continue to grow it.  

Growing a nutritious leaf vegetable that most people would not recognise as being edible is not a bad thing to do.  Given how nutritious the leaves are, they also make a great addition to poultry forage.  All of this means even if I never get a decent amount of seed out of perennial buckwheat, it is still worth growing for the leaves. 

I will probably have a few small perennial buckwheat plants for sale soon.  If you are interested they will be listed on my for sale page.  That page will link to that month's for sale page, and I try to do a new blog post each month with the perennial vegetables I have on offer.  If I don't list something on my for sale page for that month, then I don't have it for sale that month. 


Saturday, 24 January 2026

Triple-Leaf Yacon: An Unusual Mutation in Smallanthus sonchifolius

I have grown yacon (Smallanthus sonchifolius) for well over a decade, in a few different climates.  It is a great perennial vegetable. 

Yacon generally grows opposite leaves, this plant has three leaves.  It has done it for the past few years, and it returns the following year. 

Yacon leaves in sets of three

Normally, yacon leaves are arranged opposite and decussate; they are found in pairs on opposite sides of the stem and the each pair is offset 90 degrees from previous set.  On this plant, the leaves are whorled, and offset at 60 degrees from the previous set of leaves.

Extra sets of leaves like this can be a temporary thing influenced by environmental factors, or can be caused by a genetic mutation.  Given this has happened in the same plant for several years in a row, I think in this instance it is caused by a genetic mutation. 

Yacon leaves in sets of three

I assumed more leaf area would mean more photosynthesis resulting in more vigorous and productive plants.  This plant is shorter, I'm not sure if tuber production is noticeably different.  

Yacon normally has opposite leaves in sets of two
Regular yacon

This triple leaf yacon doesn't tend to flower more, or less, or earlier, or later, than regular yacon.  It doesn't seem to cope better or worse in the heat.  Other than being a little shorter, nothing really seems different at all.

I have been growing the same yacon for so many years that I feel attached to it.  Having a mutation show up is fun, and I didn't want to lose it.  

Yacon leaves in threes

Triple yacon

This year my yacon has broken dormancy and grown well.  I planned to separate my three leaf yacon and put it in a new garden bed, but none grew triple leaves this year. 

Over winter I gave away dormant yacon crowns to a few people.  I have a feeling I may have inadvertently given away my triple yacon.  

I gave yacon to a few different people, mostly to strangers who came here to buy other plants, so I have likely lost this mutation forever.  While I am a little upset over this, there are worse things I could have lost.  Hopefully it does well for its new owners, and hopefully they share it around a bit.  

Yacon drooping a little in the heat

Sometimes I sell dormant yacon crowns over winter.  When I do they will be listed on my for sale page.  I don't seem to have any triple yacon left, but I may have some regular yacon crowns for sale.  


Saturday, 10 January 2026

Azolla the little fern that could

I've been growing this azolla (Azolla pinnata) since at least 2016.  It has been growing with us through drought, flood, snow, frosts, dust storms, and utter neglect.  

Remember that children's story of 'the little engine that could'?  It was a little train that kept going and going and going and when the hill got too steep it just kept going.  Azolla is like the plant version of this.  Very few plants have as many uses as azolla in a permaculture garden, and very few things are as simple to grow without posing a weed threat.

Azolla is simple to grow, incredibly productive (hence its ability to survive neglect), and I use it for a surprising number of things.  Very few plants have as many uses as azolla, very few plants are as simple to grow as azolla, an added bonus is this species is native to my area. 

While a few containers of azolla tucked under things around the yard can be surprisingly productive, each year I wish I had more azolla.  I consider increasing the amount I grow, but the reality of space and water constraints hits me and I only find space for a few more small containers of azolla. 

Azolla covering the water surface and forming a mat

Even though it doesn't look like a typical fern, azolla is a fern.  This little fern tends to float on the water surface with short thin roots dangling freely in the water, and does not ever need to touch soil.  Unlike many water plants, azolla can thrive in low nutrient water.  It is surprisingly resilient.  This species of azolla is native to Australia (and parts of Africa, and parts of Asia), and is the most common species of Azolla that can be found in my area.  

Azolla has a myriad of uses including animal feed, human food, mosquito control, fertiliser, mulch and compost, clearing water, providing honey bees somewhere to safely collect water, and plenty of other things.  I have eaten azolla, it isn't my favourite but in a pinch I guess I could eat it, that being said I would prefer to feed it to my chickens and then eat their eggs.  

If you ever have time to kill, look up the 'Azolla event'.  This is a time in the Eocene era were it is hypothesized that azolla growing in the arctic grew so much that it took so much carbon from the atmosphere that it changed the climate and caused an ice age.  Given that azolla can easily drawdown over 1.5 kg/m2/yr of carbon (some sources state it draws down 6.2 to 7.8kg per square meter), and the basin it was growing in covered around 4 million square kilometers, this hypothesis is plausible.  Sadly azolla will never be able to do this again, as the conditions that lead to this were rather unique, but it is fascinating nonetheless. 

Azolla and a rice plant

Azolla has a mutually beneficial symbiotic relationship with a blue green algae (cyanobacteria) called Anabaena azollae.  This is one of the few instances of symbiosis in nature being beneficial to both species.  To simplify what happens, the Azolla grows special little pockets to house the cyanobacterium and feeds it carbon, in return the blue green algae collects nitrogen from the air and turns it into a form that is usable by the fern.  Collecting nitrogen from the atmosphere like this is what makes azolla so useful. 

Not only is it rather rare to see mutually beneficial symbiosis, but this symbiosis is passed on from generation to generation and does not require re-inoculation.  To quote the Azolla foundation "we know of no other symbiotic relationship in which a cyanobacterium and plant pass down together during reproduction from generation to generation".  

Azolla also has a few other species of symbionts.  At this stage we don't really understand the purpose of those other species, or how they each interact, or if each is passed on or needs to be re-inoculated each generation.  It doesn't really matter too much, what matters is the azolla has various symbionts, and together they do a great job.  

Azolla and Chinese water chestnuts

I tend to grow azolla with aquatic vegetables such as Chinese water chestnuts.  I add some azolla when I plant them, and ignore it while it does its own thing.  Within a short amount of time the azolla covers the surface of the water.  From there it doesn't take too long to make a dense mat, which prevents mosquito larvae from being able to emerge and turn into adults.  

The azolla on top of the water surface also helps shade and cool the water, and somehow prevents the water from becoming too acidic.  Small containers can overheat in summer due to their small size, shading the water and shading the submerged soil helps keep the roots cooler which helps things grow better in the heat of summer.  

Azolla with watercress and brahmi

The mat of azolla also effectively blocks light.  This prevents algae from being a problem, and tends to prevent weed seeds from germinating.  

After the azolla turns into a thick mat, it starts to self compost.  New azolla grows on top, while the ferns underneath get smothered, and die.  This releases nitrogen and other nutrients that can be used by the water vegetables.  This works well as a natural organic biofertiliser.  This beneficial relationship between azolla and water plants was noticed hundreds of years ago, and azolla was introduced into rice paddies to increase rice yields and feed countless people long before the invent of chemical fertilisers.

The below container was partly filled with leaf litter, planted with a duck potato, topped up with water, and azolla added.  The soil level is too high, so there was not much space for water, but the azolla didn't mind, it grew well and covered the surface.  You can see the duck potatoes grew into large plants even though they were growing in small containers.  

Azolla and duck potatoes

The roots of azolla hang down in the water, and a myriad of life swims among them.  I don't know how these tiny things find their way into my containers, but I know if I look closely (or use a microscope) the roots are absolutely teeming with life.  

Tremendous amounts of research have been conducted into azolla.  All of this research points to azolla's productivity and ability to reduce the need for both chemical fertilisers and herbicides.  

While azolla is widely used as a biofertiliser in China and various other countries, it has not gained popularity in the Western countries where it is preferred to apply chemical fertilisers.  For backyard growers, azolla creates free organic fertiliser and free chicken feed.

Chinese water chestnuts growing in buckets with azolla

I start small aquatic vegetables in small pots of soil, then I transplant them into larger pots.  The ones in the photo below are in 10cm pots of soil submerged in a 4 liter ice cream container.  The azolla shades the water, which helps with temperature regulation and prevents algae from growing. 

Sometimes I place cuttings between these submerged pots.  The pots help hold the cuttings upright, keeping the base of the cutting under water, while the leaves remain in the air.  The azolla shades the water, prevents algae growth, and keeps the water cooler.  

Azolla with aquatic vegetables and cuttings

Recently I started to grow black forbidden rice (Oryza sativa).  I have some of the rice plants growing in pots of soil and being watered like any other vegetable plant, and some plants are in pots of soil submerged in shallow water.  I am curious to see which will perform better for me. 

In many countries azolla is intentionally added to flooded rice paddies.  Adding azolla is said to increase rice yields anywhere from 6.2% to 112% depending on which paper you read and what they are comparing.  All the research indicates that azolla helps rice plants grow larger, tiller more, and produce more grain (both in terms of weight as well as number of grains) per plant.  

I added azolla to most of the submerged rice I am growing.  It doesn't take long before the entire surface is covered.  Once the surface is covered it doesn't take long until the azolla forms a dense mat and starts to break down.  This should fertilise my plants, and provide food for numerous tiny water critters.  If nothing else, azolla will prevent mosquitoes from successfully breeding in these containers of still water.  

Newly planted Black forbidden rice with azolla
Azolla and rice - a few days later

The growth rate of azolla is pretty extraordinary.  

I took the photo below not long after adding azolla to the surface of the water.  You can see, the azolla is dividing and growing well. 

Black forbidden rice growing with azolla

I took the next photo of the same plants just six days later.  At this point the azolla had almost covered the surface of the water.  

This was towards the end of spring, over summer when the temperature is a little warmer the growth rate of azolla can be even faster.  

The rice plants seem to be doing well with azolla on the surface.  I am also growing a few rice plants in shallow water with no azolla to see if there is any noticeable difference.  I am taking photos and plan to write another blog post on this towards the end of the season.  While it is too early to make a call, at this stage the rice with azolla appears to be larger and more lush.

Six days of azolla growth

Azolla grows best floating on the surface of water, where it can double its biomass every few days.  Strangely enough, azolla can also grow long term on soil.  

Once I watered a pot using water that had a small piece of azolla in it.  The azolla sat on the surface of the soil and didn't die, and I decided to leave it and see what happened.  It stayed green and looked healthy enough.  

Over time the azolla grew, and slowly covered much of the soil surface.  This has not grown anywhere near as fast as when it is in water, but it has survived spring, summer, autumn, winter, another spring and is heading into its second summer.  This is long term survival.  

The azolla on top is growing, while the lower levels are mulching down.  The photos below are of the same pot of azolla, taken several months apart.  The first photo was taken after the azolla had been growing on soil for several months, the second photo was taken a few months after that. 


Azolla growing on soil long term

The same azolla still growing on just soil
From what I have seen, if growing on soil long term the azolla is a little tricky to get started, but once it gets established it is relatively hardy.  

The azolla needs damp soil and some shade to get started.  If I start by using free floating azolla and place it on soil it struggles.  If I get azolla that has started to form a dense mat, this seems hardier and tends to adapt to soil faster.  Once the azolla has been on soil for a while it changes slightly, it gets thicker and the roots change, and it seems to survive drier conditions and more sun.  

Interestingly, if I float some soil grown azolla on water, it seems to take some time to revert back to aquatic life.  For some time it just floats, it gets thinner, and does not divide.  Once it gets used to living on water, it then grows and divides like normal. 

Azolla growing on soil underneath dryland rice

As well as being excellent fertiliser, and great animal feed, azolla has a few other uses.  Honey bees and other small things need water in summer, but they can't always access water without drowning.  The bees can safely walk on azolla, and reach the water between the plants.  

Every summer I see a lot of bees on the azolla collecting water.  I also see butterflies standing on the azolla collecting water in the heat of summer.  

Dragonflies and other beneficial insects are also commonly seen around my azolla.  I am not sure if they are breeding in the water under the azolla, or if they are attracted due to the other insects, or if they are there for some other reason.  

Dragonflies are pretty, plus they are useful to have in my yard as they eat a lot of mosquitoes.  Whatever the correlation is between dragonflies and azolla, I am glad they are here.

Honey bee collecting water from azolla
Honey bee collecting water from azolla

For me, azolla performs best in part shade.  It certainly survives in full sun, but I find it grows faster when it has some shade.  Not surprisingly, being a plant means having too much shade will stop azolla from growing well. 

Azolla turns red when it is stressed.  This stress can be from too much sun, or from extreme temperatures.  When azolla is red, it grows slower, and is meant to be less nutritious.  While a pond covered in bright red azolla is a pretty amazing thing to see, I prefer to keep mine green and growing fast so I can use more of it for various things.  This normally means giving it a little shade.

Azolla starting to turn red from stress
Azolla and duckweed

Azolla spreads and divides fast.  It can double every day or so under good conditions.  

While azolla also reproduces sexually and produces spores like other ferns, the main way it reproduces is asexually.  Any part of azolla that breaks off has the potential to produce more azolla.  

While azolla prefers not to be frozen over winter, my azolla survives heavy frost, and has survived being frozen for days on end.  If it ever died from the cold, I have little doubt that either a tiny part was still alive, or sporocarps could be present in the water, and it could recolonise pretty quickly once the weather warmed.  

Azolla makes great chicken feed

I use azolla to supplement chicken feed, this helps the chickens stay healthy, and it lowers the feed bill.  

Azolla is surprisingly nutritious, and it is readily eaten by my hens.  As mentioned earlier the roots of azolla are teeming with tiny life, when my chickens eat azolla they also eat these tiny invertebrates.  

Studies indicate that azolla can replace up to 20% of bought food for layer hens without seeing a decline in eggs, but I can't grow that much azolla here.  I give them as much as I can as it replaces some bought food, and lowers the cost of eggs a little bit.  

Azolla is appreciated by hens over summer when there isn't much grass or other greenery available.  I can either float azolla on water, or I can scoop it into a dish, either way my hens eat it pretty quickly.  

Azolla and rice plants

While I am a little disappointed that azolla will never again be responsible for creating an ice age, I still like azolla.  I tend to find a lot of uses for azolla, and could use it a whole lot more if I had more of it.  I have to be content only growing a little bit as I don't have a lot of extra space.  

If you grow any animal feed, or have a garden, or grow water plants, or want to provide somewhere safe for honey bees to collect water, then azolla is for you.  Once you get azolla, you never need to buy it again as you can keep it going forever.  You may be able to find some azolla locally, or you may need to buy it.  You only need a little to get started as it divides fast.  Very few places other than dedicated water garden nurseries seem to sell azolla.  If you can't find any locally, I sell azolla through my for sale page.  

Azolla and Chinese water chestnuts growing in a bucket


Wednesday, 1 October 2025

Perennial vegetables for sale October 2025

For sale in Australia perennial vegetables, heirloom vegetable seeds, edible herbs, organic berry plants, and a few non-edible plants and things.  Everything has been grown organically by me.  

Maintaining my old for sale page wasn't working for me, so each month I will write a new blog post with an updated list of what I have for sale that month and include a link on my old for sale page. 

Heirloom tomatoes
Various organic tomatoes
For Sale: October 2025 


Bare Rooted Plants $5 each (unless otherwise stated): 

Skirret offsets 
Everlasting onions 
Babington leek 
Pineberry strawberry 
Virginian strawberry
Atilla alpine strawberry 
Jekkas thyme 
Spearmint 
100 yr old mint
Lavender mint 
Willow herb
Vietnamese fish mint
Vietnamese coriander
Variegated water parsley
Green water parsley (more vigorous stronger tasting version of the variegated form)
Asparagus (Variety: Purple) 
Asparagus (Variety: Precoce D'Argenteuil) 
Sweet Violet 
Water cress - well rooted cuttings
Hops (Variety: Target)
Brahmi/water hyssop (Bacopa monnieri
Tiger nut/chufas (Cyperus esculentus$5 for 5 tubers
Jerusalem artichoke tubers $3 each
Duck potato $3 each
Chinese water chestnuts $3 
Spider plant (variegated, green, or reverse variegated)  $3 each
Azolla  ($3 per scoop)  


Ancient Cultures: 

Milk kefir grains  $5 

Heirloom Vegetable Seeds:  $4 packet (unless otherwise stated) 

Immali corn
Superior coriander
Giant parsley
Purple hot mustard
Purple asparagus
Tomato Zolotoe Serdtse
Tomato Tommy Toe
Tomato Reisetoimate 
Tomato Woolly Kate 
Senposai
Huacatay


Non edible things:

Aloe vera $5
String of pearls succulent - plant $5, cuttings $2
String of beans succulent (from Coober Pedy) - plant $5, cuttings  $2
Red jelly bean succulent  $5 
African violet leaf cutting (Variety: New Hampshire) $3 each
African violet leaf cutting (Variety: unnamed double light blue) $3 each

Candle mold 'skep' $10 each
Candle mold 'owl' $10 each 


Postage Prices: 

$12 for plants etc, or 
$3.50 if only buying seeds.  

I post the Monday after payment has cleared.

Jerusalem artichoke tubers


To order anything from the above list: 

Please send me an email saying what plants/seeds you would like and I will reply with prices/payment methods.  My email address will need to remove the the spaces, put @ instead of the word 'at' and . in place of the word 'dot': 

damien_beaumont at yahoo dot com dot au 



Photographs, binomial names, and descriptions of plants, and notes on how I grow them, can be found on my old for sale page.  Please note my old page has a lot of things not currently in season/not currently for sale.  The only things I have for sale this month are listed in this blog post above.