Jekkas thyme variety comparison

I wrote a previous post comparing different varieties of thyme.  Some were clearly better than others, some were far more vigorous than others.  Out of all the varieties of thyme I have grown over the years, the real stand out has been Jekkas Thyme.  

In my climate, Jekka's thyme grows far more vigorously than any other thyme variety.  It grows more stems, each stem has more leaves, and each leaf is larger than regular thyme.  It has more flowers, and larger flowers than regular thyme.  In my climate Jekkas thyme quickly grows, it throws down roots wherever a node touches the soil, meaning it can form  dense and expanding clump quickly.  

Regular thyme on the left, jekkas thyme on the right

For me, I find both varieties taste and smell much the same, and they both change over the season.  I can't easily tell the difference in taste, perhaps Jekkas thyme is slightly stronger, but not significantly so.  I don't think the average gardener or home cook could tell the difference in taste.  Perhaps I'm wrong and some foodie will correct me on this point and smugly point out how one is ever so slightly more [something] than the other, or one has more subtle notes of [insert some term I have no idea what it means].  

Below are some photos of regular culinary thyme next to Jekka's thyme for comparison. You will get a good idea of what I mean about Jekkas thyme being a superior variety.  

Regular thyme comparison with Jekkas thyme

Take a look at the sprigs of thyme below.   Both plants were growing in my garden over the past few years and have been treated the same, so the difference is due to superior genetics.  

The two sprigs on the left are regular thyme, the two on the right are Jekkas thyme.  It is pretty easy to tell them apart even from a distance.  

Comparison of Thyme sprigs

What you can see clearly in these photos is that the leaves of Jekkas thyme are very large for a variety of thyme.  

Not only are the leaves far larger, but there are a lot more leaves per sprig.  Jekkas thyme tends to produce a lot more sprigs than regular thyme, and if allowed to will develop into a sprawling ground cover.  

I like to grow Jekkas thyme where it can trail over the side of things.  I really like how it looks when in bloom and cascading over the edge of a garden bed.  

Jekkas thyme blooming, good for bees

Raised garden bed draped in Jekka's thyme

Regular thyme vs Jekkas thyme

These varieties of thyme also flower differently.  I don't know the best way to describe this, but you can see that regular thyme flowers up the stalk.  The flowers are small, they are spaced out, and there are not many of them.  This means that bees or other pollinators need to do a lot of work to collect nectar and pollen from thyme flowers.   

Jekkas thyme mostly flowers in a dense clump at the end of a stalk.  There are more flowers, each flower is larger, and they are closer together.  I think this looks prettier.  

As there are more flowers, each flower with larger nectaries, bees collect nectar from them rather efficiently.  The bees spend less time searching for flowers (or less time and effort travelling between flowers) as the flowers are all there together.  This means they collect more honey, and they collect it faster.  This means more honey for the hive, and more time for the bees to be doing other things.  It is a win-win, the bees win twice.  

Thyme flower comparison

Rather than just mentioning how much more leaves you get from Jekkas thyme than regular thyme, I thought I would show photos of just how much more productive this variety is than regular thyme.  

I took two sprigs of thyme, and two sprigs of Jekkas thyme, stripped off the lower leaves, and put them in piles for comparison.  I don't tend to use the leaves at the very tips of the sprigs because the sprig tends to break if I try to pull them off.  

At this stage the remaining sprigs, with their few leaves, could be planted and grown into new plants.  

Yield comparison Jekkas thyme

The sprigs were all similar in length (the regular thyme sprigs may be ever so slightly longer), and the plants were grown under the same conditions in the same garden.  The difference in yield between the two varieties is quite remarkable.  

On the left are the small leaves of regular thyme.  On the right is a significantly larger pile of leaves from Jekka's thyme.  There is simply no comparison in terms of yield.  

If you are going to bother growing any edible herb, you may as well grow an improved variety that provides more food for the same amount of time and effort.  

While Jekkas thyme used to be rare and difficult to find in Australia, I am glad to say that it is now easy to find.  Most garden shops seem to sell it, as do a few online plant sellers.  I also sell Jekkas thyme plants through my for sale page and it easily survives postage with no issues if it is given some water to get it established.  

Buckwheat Atmospheric Nitrogen Fixation

Legumes fix nitrogen from the atmosphere, some are far more efficient than others.  Some legumes sequester a tiny percentage of the nitrogen they consume, others sequester significantly more than they consume.  Buckwheat is not a legume.  

There are a few non-legumes that are known to sequester significant amounts of atmospheric nitrogen.  

I have heard that buckwheat can sequester atmospheric nitrogen.  I never thought much of it because there are a lot of garden myths and lots of garden nonsense around, and everywhere I read about this claimed it as a fact but provided no evidence whatsoever. 

I started searching and found many studies that demonstrated the ability of buckwheat to enrich soil with major nutrients, in particular, phosphorus and nitrogen, after being grown as a cover crop.  From those papers I was convinced that buckwheat can and does enrich soil, but I was still not convinced if any fixation of atmospheric nitrogen was happening.  

While the mechanism behind increasing soil nitrogen probably doesn't matter a great deal to the average home gardener, I had a lot of questions regarding how buckwheat increases soil nitrogen.  

From my understanding there are three possibilities with buckwheat regarding how soil nitrogen is increasing after it is grown.  Perhaps one or even a mix of all three is occurring.

1. Deep roots can gather resources from lower in the soil/subsoil.  This is transported into its leaves and stems that mulch down later and become available in the surface layers of soil.  
2. Chemically changing the form of resources already present in the soil so that they are now available.  I believe this is probably what buckwheat does with soil phosphorus.  
3. Sequestering nitrogen from the atmosphere through bacterial action on and/or near its roots.  The bacteria may colonise and live on the roots, or the roots may secrete something that feeds the free living bacteria living near by in the soil.  

Then I read a study that demonstrated significant increases in soil nitrogen after growing buckwheat as a cover crop.  Page 32 states: 

“Despite the fact that buckwheat is not a nitrogen scavenger, concentration of nitrogen in soil significantly increased in both soil layers indicating stimulation of biological nitrogen fixation by bacteria in the rhizosphere”.  

The study mentioned above seems to indicate that there is an increase in available nitrogen in the soil after using buckwheat as a cover crop.  This demonstrated significant increases in soil nitrogen after growing buckwheat.  

The paper went on to mention bacteria in the rhizosphere as being one possible reason for the increased soil nitrogen.  There are several possible reasons behind the increased soil nitrogen, these possible reasons were not explored in any detail.  

My buckwheat flowering

After this I also read a few really old papers, one was titled Nonsymbiotic Nitrogen Fixation in Soils of a Semi-Arid Region of North China.  This paper suggested that active non-symbiotic fixation of nitrogen might be an important factor strangely high yields obtained in poor semi-arid soils in Northern China.  

I then found and read a few published peer reviewed papers that make similar claims of increased soil nitrogen after planting buckwheat.  Some of these papers mention which bacteria are likely responsible for this phenomenon.  

Interestingly enough, buckwheat is often considered to be non-mycorrhizal, yet I was able to find several reports of arbuscular mycorrhizal colonisation of buckwheat roots (such as https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s00572-008-0181-6), and vesicular–arbuscular mycorrhiza in buckwheat (such as https://citeseerx.ist.psu.edu/document?repid=rep1&type=pdf&doi=ea93a54578db5ab2a1a813f7697e895992bea0d9).  Mycorrhizal action could account for some of the increased phosphorus that is found in soils after buckwheat is grown as a cover crop.  

Then I stumbled across a thesis written in 1997 published on the FAO website.  This was titled: Nitrogen fixing microorganisms of the buckwheat rhizosphere and their influence on the plant productivity.  

It was a fascinating read.  From this thesis it sounds as though if buckwheat is properly inoculated, it fixes a significant amount of nitrogen from the atmosphere.  It also states that the grain yield is also increased by 15-20% when inoculated.  This is intriguing as it is the first time I had read anything reliable that claims buckwheat fixes atmospheric nitrogen.  

Buckwheat does not form root nodules, but that does not exclude it from fixing atmospheric nitrogen as there are a number of non-nodulating legumes that also fix nitrogen.  This thesis indicates that there may be significant bacterial nitrogen fixation occurring in the rhizosphere, and demonstrated a significant yield increase as a result of that nitrogen fixation.  

Buckwheat setting seed

Based on the above, it is safe to say that buckwheat does play a role in fixing a significant amount of atmospheric nitrogen.  Sadly, the amount of atmospheric nitrogen that is fixed by buckwheat during its short life appears to be unknown due to a lack of study in this area.  

Given the massive economic significance of buckwheat, combined with how incredibly nutritious buckwheat is, along with it being a major crop that feeds a massive number of people who eat it as a staple food, I find it odd that this phenomenon would not have been studied a whole lot more.  I wish I knew more.  

Succulents

I grow a lot of edible things.  I like to grow things that I otherwise could not eat, such as mulberries or diploid potatoes or pink/purple sweet corn.  

I also grow a few ornamental plants including a few nice ferns.  Like many people, I also have a few succulents.  

Variegated succulents 

Recently I got a cutting from a variegated succulent, I need to look up what it is but have been told it is a 'tree houseleek'.  It has changed a bit since I planted it, but I still like its colours.  

This cutting has a few offshoots.  If it grows well, after some time I should be able to remove the offshoots and grow a few more of them.  

Variegated succulent

Offsets under the main rosette

Should be simple to divide once it grows

I also got some cuttings of a different variegated succulent which has similar colours.  I like these variegated succulents more than the first one, they look nice.  Someone told me the one below is Crassula ovata ‘Tricolor’.

If it grows I should be able to divide it into several plants.  

Variegated succulent

There are a few in this pot

String of buttons

A few years ago my daughter bought a string of buttons succulent (Crassula perforata).  I don't know what she liked more, the plant or its name.  

It was such a tiny plant when she bought it, and it has grown well.  She grew it for a long time, and it started to divide, and then flower.  

I helped her divide it, and she now has three of them (I only took photos of two).  

String of buttons succulent

String of buttons

String of pearls

I like string of pearls succulents (Senecio rowleyanus).  They aren't as hardy as many succulents, but they are simple to grow and they look incredible.  Mine flower each winter, the flowers are not overly interesting to look at, but they smell like cinnamon. 

The ones below are almost a meter long, and will get even longer if I can protect them.  

At this stage I only have plenty of the typical gtreen form, and a small number of variegated string of peals plants.  The variegated ones are so pretty, and they grow a lot slower.  I also have one cutting of the far larger and rarer 'big peas' or 'perla grande' variety which I can't wait until it grows and shows me what it can really do.  

String of pearls

String of pearls succulent

String of pearls succulents get rather long

String of pearls succulents are simple to grow, they will grow in soil or even in water.  When pieces break off they can be planted to create new plants.  Below are some of the cuttings I am growing out.  

It takes some time and a bit of space to grow them long.  For this reason small plants are relatively inexpensive, and longer plants tend to cost a lot more.  

String of pearls cuttings

String of beans, string of fishhooks, string of bananas

Recently I was given cuttings from a strong of beans succulent (Senecio radicans).  This is a different species to the string of pearls.  It grows in a similar way, but has longer leaves (rather than spherical leaves of string of pearls).  I am told this succulent is hardier, and more vigorous than string of pearls.

When I got the cutting, the leaves were long and thin.  After planting the cutting, and watering, the leaves have plumped up a lot.  The parent plant grew under harsh conditions for a number of years, so my cutting became plump and has grown fast since I planted the cutting and gave it water.  

Over winter these can take on a purplish tinge to the leaves.  The flowers are large and smell like cinnamon.

String of beans succulent

String of dolphins

I got a cutting from a string of dolphins (Senecio × peregrinus) a while ago.  String of dolphins is an interspecific hybrid of Senecio rowleyanus (String of Pearls) and Senecio articulatus.  

On the right angle, when not watered very well, the leaves look like dolphins.  When over watered the leaves plump up and no longer look much like dolphins.  

I have had it for over a year and it is still so tiny.  It is in a pot with other plants, but by now I had expected it to be much larger.  This plant is growing so slowly that I think it is not loving life and needs to be moved to a different position or a different pot or something.  

String of dolphins 

Shrek's ear

My son saw a succulent called Shrek's ear that he was rather impressed by.  He took one leaf from this plant and asked me to grow this for him as a cutting.  I believe it to be Crassula but am not sure of the species. 

From that one leaf, my son grew it into this healthy plant.  I also have a few zygocactus cuttings in the pot with it.  The zygocactus looks poorly, but it flowers.  

I need to repot this one for my son, and put the zygocactus in its own pot.  After the Shrek's ear settles in we should divide it into two large plants.  

Shrek's ear succulent

Succulent and zygocactus

There are also a few succulents growing in the garden.  Among them are a few Aloe vera plants.  I don't pay them a great deal of attention.  

I do sell string of pearls plants and cuttings through my for sale page.  At some stage I will probably list some of the other succulents for sale.

Olive Garden in the Desert

Recently we went to Coober Pedy for a holiday.  Coober Pedy is a town in outback South Australia, it is located in the largest desert in Australia - the Great Victoria Desert.  

In Coober Pedy many houses have been dug underground, they do this as the climate is too hot and hostile above ground.  Not surprisingly, there are not many gardens out that way.  

While we were in Coober Pedy we went and had a look at the Serbian Orthodox Church.  Out front of the church was a garden.  The garden consisted of a few olive trees and fig trees.  

Look at this garden, isn't it incredible!

Olive Garden in Coober Pedy

The picture above is taken when I was standing in the desert.  The fence marks the edge of the garden.  The garden is noticeably different to the surrounding landscape. 

The picture below was taken when I was standing in their garden.  It clearly gets more water, and has different soil, to the land outside of the fence.  I really wish there had been someone there who I could ask a few questions, as this type of garden is very foreign to me.

Their garden was remarkable.  

Coober Pedy Olive Garden

It is difficult to judge tone in a written blog post so I will be clear.  I am not being sarcastic, I truly found this garden to be remarkable.  I wish I could have learned more about it.  

Most of the olive trees were barely surviving, they were struggling even though they were well established and even with the extra water that they were given.  The locals kept stressing that this had been a very 'wet' year and everything was 'much more green than usual'.  Even so, these olive trees were doing it tough.  

I regret not being able to take cuttings and be able to grow a Coober Pedy olive tree at home, it would be cool to grow a Coober Pedy olive tree.  Sadly there was no one from the church around for me to ask and I didn't want to just take cuttings without asking someone first.  

Olives are well known for thriving under incredibly harsh conditions.  As olive trees and figs barely survive there with supplemental water, it really highlighted how extremely harsh the desert climate must be.  Even though these trees were barely hanging on, and most had died back, I was told that they produce fruit in season.  There was an old olive grove on the edge of town, its trees were not looking as good as the ones near the church.  

To give a little perspective on how harsh it is out there, look at the photo below.  The sign in the distance is next to a road.  It is warning drivers that there are no fences, and to beware of wandering stock.  There have been bores sunk so the stock have enough water to survive.  This was a very 'wet' and 'green' year, yet there is not a single grass growing out there.  The stock survive by eating the native shrubs that exist in that part of the desert.  Interestingly these animals are not fed grains or concentrates, they find enough food to survive in the desert, but that is a story for another time.  

Unfenced farm near Coober Pedy

Interestingly, there were very few dugouts with succulents or cacti growing out the front.  The few that did have anything growing appeared to be under cover and were provided with shade.  

I asked someone about this, and was told it is too hot and dry for succulents to survive unless they were under shelter and were provided with extra water.  This person gave me some cuttings from their string of beans succulent (Senecio radians) that they kept partially shaded and watered often.  This cutting has grown very fast since being planted back at home.  

Serbian Orthodox Church in Coober Pedy

The Serbian Orthodox church, the members of which had tended the garden, had been dug into the side of a hill.  Underground the temperature was far more stable and bearable.  This church was very interesting.  

Dug Out Church tunnel leading down

The Coober Pedy Serbian Orthodox Church is dedicated to Elijah.  For that reason the story of Elijah (from 2 Kings) is depicted on the walls.  

Some of the story is carved into the rock that the church has been excavated from, and some is depicted in paintings.  I am no photographer, so these pictures do not do justice to its beauty.  

Ornate carvings behind glass to protect them

Like any Orthodox church, there are no pews.  

This church had had the smell of an orthodox church (from the incense that is used), mixed with a curious salty, rocky smell of the earth.  

It was interesting seeing a dug out Orthodox church.  I would have loved to have been able to attend a service, but we were not there on the right times/days.  

It was fascinating seeing a desert garden.  It was interesting to see a garden survive (and produce fruit) in an area so arid and harsh that cacti and succulents do not survive without protection and being provided with extra water.  While I found it interesting, I am glad that I do not have to garden under such harsh conditions.  

Milk bottle waterer

Recently we went away for a few weeks.  I was worried that my carnivorous plants would dry out and die.  These are swamp plants, and need constant water, and I didn't know what to do.  

My carnivorous plants are growing in trays that normally hold a low level of water, and I try to keep the water at a constant (yet low) level.  I filled the trays to the top with water, but knew that it would not last until we returned.  I was worried that things would dry out and die before we returned.  

The day before we left I had an idea.  

I got some empty milk bottles and filled them with water.  I punched two holes in each of them, one slightly higher than the other.  These milk bottles should act as a waterer, and fill up the tray when water dropped below the higher hole.  I expected this to work in the same way as the waterer that I use for my chickens.  This sounded good in theory and I hoped that it would work.  

I put a milk bottle waterer in each of my trays except for one.  I would have put one in each, except I didn't have enough bottles.  Having one without the waterer would be good for comparison.  

When we left, everything looked great.  I hoped that this would work.  

Milk Bottle Waterer and trays filled 

Milk Bottle Holiday Waterers

When we returned home, all of the trays with milk bottles still had water in them, the tray without a bottle was dry.  This means they worked!

I expected air to enter the bottles through their highest hole when the water level dropped, and for them to be largely filled with air when I returned home, but this was not what happened.  

As you can see from the pictures below, water certainly left the bottles, but no air entered them.  The bottles were sucked in and crushed.  The water level of the trays is at the highest hole.  I put the higher hole at this level as it is the level I usually keep the water at.  

Bottle waterer crushed

Milk Bottle Holiday Waterers

Strangely enough, there were some tiny water beetles and other aquatic insects swimming inside some of the bottles.  Presumably they live in my trays and had entered through the holes in the milk bottles.  

Next year when I take leave if we go anywhere I will have to remember to do this again.  Even though I don't understand why the bottles were crushed, it was cheap, it worked well, and it kept my carnivorous plants watered for over two weeks.  

'DCXL' vft and 'Wally' vft growth rate comparison

I wrote a previous blog post comparing different Venus flytrap clones.  I did my best to provide the best comparison that I could by using similar age plants grown side by side under the same conditions for one year.  

In that post I compared several different Venus flytrap varieties to 'Wally' as this is my standard as it is a very vigorous clone that I had a number of plants at various ages and sizes. 

At that time I also had a new DCXL Venus fly trap, but it was a poor comparison because the plants were not grown under the same conditions as anything else I had.  

I have decided to do a better comparison of these two varieties as they are both vigorous an excellent choices for new carnivorous plant growers.  One is low growing, the other gets tall leaves, they both get decent colouration, and both are pretty forgiving of less than ideal conditions.  

I took flower stalk cuttings of 'DCXL' and 'Wally' late in the year 2021, and grew them over winter side by side in the same pot.  After winter I repotted them on the same day into the same sized pots, in the same growth media.  I grew them in separate pots, side by side, in the same tray of water.  This is a good comparison as everything other than their genetics was exactly the same.  

Similar sized flower stalk cuttings were taken from both plants late 2021.  The flower stalk cuttings were planted into live sphagnum moss on the same day and kept in the same pot to grow a little.  The plantlets survived a very mild winter, and were repotted into damp sphagnum peatmoss mixed with sand on 11 September 2022.  Being in Australia, September is the start of Spring.  

The photos below show comparison of growth between the two clones.  I tried to take photos in the first week of each month to demonstrate the speed at which they were growing. 

Early September 2022 (September is the start of spring in Australia)

It is a little difficult to see in the photo below, but the two sets of tiny Venus flytrap plants are already very different to each other.  Below is a comparison photo, and a closer photo of each.  

Comparison: Wally vft on left, DCXL vft on right

Wally produced a lot more plants from the flower stalk cutting than DCXL did.  Each Wally plant has less leaves than DCXL, and at this stage has slightly smaller traps.  At this small stage the Wally flytraps look quite delicate.  While I was tempted to divide the little Wally flytraps I decided that the comparison would be better if I left them to grow as they were.  

Wally clones from flower stalk cutting 

DCXL flower stalk cutting produced fewer plants, but each has more leaves per plant and slightly larger traps at this stage.  At this tiny stage the DCXL flytraps appear small but robust.  At this point in time DCXL has more colour in the traps than Wally.

DCXL clones from flower stalk cutting 

From here they grew in these separate identical pots, side by side, in the same tray of water, and I tried to take a photo of them in the first week of each month.  

Early October 2022 

The traps of DCXL vft are now noticeably larger than those of Wally vft.  Wally is gaining more colour on all parts of the plant.  The leaves of DCXL are not yet what I would consider to be upright growth, but it is less prostrate that Wally.

I only took one photo in October as they had not done anything too incredible since the previous month.

Venus Flytrap Wally and DCXL vft - October 2022 

Early November 2022

While plants in both pots are still very small, DCXL now has considerably larger traps than Wally.  DCXL is also starting to put out some upright growth, while Wally is staying close to the ground.  Wally has more colour on pretty much every part of the plant, but both plants are colouring up quite nicely.

You can't tell by the photos, but there are a lot more Wally plants than DCXL plants in these pots.  Each DCXL plant is larger so from a distance it looks like there are more of them.  The DCXL plants are big beefy plants with many leaves and large traps.

It's clear even at this small size that both of these flytrap clones are very impressive varieties!  If I were only to grow two varieties of Venus flytrap then these two would probably be it.

DCXL Venus flytrap - November 2022

Wally Venus flytrap - November 2022

Wally and DCXL growing side by side 

Wally Venus fly trap 

DCXL Venus fly trap 

Wally on left, DCXL on right

Now that these Venus flytraps are out of dormancy and actively growing they should really take off.  I can hardly wait to see what they do over the next month.

Early December 2022 (December is the start of Summer in Australia)

The weather has been strange, and most of my venus flytraps are either not coming out of dormancy, or are growing flower stalks and non carnivorous leaves.  Some of my other varieties of venus flytraps are declining and some of the weak varieties look like they may die this year.  

These two little ones are not going as well as I would have expected, and Wally appears to be struggling a little.  They are still growing side by side, in the same tray of water, and conditions as as close to identical as I could make them.

Wally is getting a lot more colour, and is staying low to the ground as always.  DCXL is growing into an impressive looking plant with some nice upright growth, decent colouration of trap interior, and some decent trap sizes for such a young plant.  

Wally and DCXL comparison

DCXL vft December 2022

Wally vft December 2022

DCXL Venus flytrap 

Wally Venus flytrap 

Early January 2023

The weather has been all over the place.  A lot of my little plants have been suffering and burning off.  Some of my typical venus flytraps have died.  

Wally continues to push through, and DCXL continues to grow larger.  Clearly these are both excellent varieties for new growers. 

Wally on the left, DCXL on the right

DCXL

Wally

DCXL Venus Flytrap

Wally and DCXL Venus Flytrap comparison

Wally Venus Flytrap

Early February 2023

After six months these have not grown as much as I would have expected.  That being said, they are both larger and healthier than many of my other Venus Flytrap cultivars.

DCXL has far larger traps, and longer leaves, than Wally.  Both plants have decent colouration.  

Some of the smaller Wally plants appear to have died off, while it appears all of the DCXL plants are still alive.

The weather has been all over the place here.  One day will be sunny, hot, and 35C, the next cold, windy, and 19C.  As well as the temperature fluctuating rather dramatically form day to day, it has been really dry here for the past few months.  This isn't a huge issue as I grow these in a tray of water.  I was watering using bore water for some time and there was some salt build up as we didn't have any rain to flush it away, I am back to using rain water and they are looking better.

I think my little plants are getting ready for dormancy as DCXL has stopped producing any upright growth.

DCXL flytrap

Wally flytrap

Wally on left, DCXL on right

DCXL VFT February

Wally VFT February

Early March 2023 (March is the start of Autumn in Australia)

No more upright growth.  Both of these pots would have grown better had I divided them instead of leaving them together.  

We had very strange weather this year so lots of plants are already entering dormancy.  Things will probably look run down from here until Spring.

Wally

DCXL

Wally plants from flower stalk cutting

DCXL plants from flower stalk cutting

Wally on left, DXCL on right

The difference between these clones is incredible

Early May 2023

Winter is just around the corner, so dormancy isn't too far off.  Neither clone looks great while dormant, but that is ok.  Moss is growing more than I would like, but I won't try to do anything about that until closer to Spring.

Wally VFT going into winter

DCXL VFT going into winter

Early June 2023 (June is the start of winter in Australia)

Venus Flytrap Comparison - Wally and DCXL

Wally VFT start of winter

DCXL VFT start of winter

Early July 2023

Being winter, all of my Venus flytraps look dreadful as they are mostly dormant.  Other than the moss, everything is as it should be.  I plan to repot these late winter/early spring and when I do I will remove as much moss as possible.

Early August 2023 

As you can see, the plants are dormant and look horrible.  This is normal and healthy for Venus Flytraps over winter here.  Spring is around the corner, once the weather warms and there is more sunlight I expect these plants to grow and look good once again.  

Dormant VFTs, Wally on left, DCXL on right

Wally VFT late winter

DCXL VFT late winter

Wally and DCXL flytraps over winter

12 month Comparison

Here they are repotted, and ready for spring growth.  Side by side, Wally VFT on the left and DCXL vft on the right.  Below is the initial phot, as well as photos of where they are now.  

Ideally I would have divided them a year ago, but I wanted to show what they would do if left as is.  

September 2022: Wally vft on left, DCXL vft on right

August 2023: Wally vft on left, some of the DCXL vft on right

August 2023

From the Wally flower stalk cutting I ended up with four healthy plants and a couple of tiny ones that could be divided once they start growing in warmer weather.  Four of them should be flowering size perhaps this year but probably next year.  This past year the growing conditions were not good, and the crowding only made things worse and many of the smallest plants died.  Had I divided these earlier I would have ended up with many more plants.  

From the DCXL flower stalk cutting I ended up with six healthy plants.  Each should reach flowering size this year or at the latest next year.  Even though the weather was not great the past year, they did not suffer as much from crowding as they started with less plantlets.  

This past year the weather was not ideal for flytraps.  Both of these varieties fared much better than any of the other varieties, named or unnamed, that I am growing.

Venus Flytraps: Wally on left, DCXL on the right

DCXL flyraps ready for spring

Wally flytraps ready for spring growth

DCXL Venus Flytraps largely dormant

While venus flytraps are all the same species, there are many different varieties, each of which grows differently, looks different, and performs best under slightly different conditions.  Wally stays low to the ground and divides well, and gets a lot more colouration with more light intensity.  DCXL has tall summer growth, large summer traps, and produce big beefy plants.  Both varieties produce decent sized traps.  Both varieties are great for beginners as they are forgiving of difficult growing conditions.  

From here these plants will break dormancy, and put on some active growth.  I will probably leave some as they are, and I may attempt to divide others.  

When they send up flower stalks I will probably try to take more cuttings.  I may allow them to flower and attempt to gather seed from them, but I tend to have low success having flytraps produce viable seed.  Growing Venus Flytraps from see is fun as every seed grown plant is unique, it also takes years to get a decent sized plant.  

Venus flytraps handle bare rooted postage well.  If you are in Australia and would like to swap some varieties with me, my contact detail can be found on my for sale page.

Hopefully this comparison is useful for someone wanting to grow Venus Flytraps.