Comparing yield of female asparagus and male asparagus plants

Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) is a perennial vegetable that is dioecious, meaning that individual asparagus plants are either male or female (or sometimes they are 'super male', but that is a topic for another day). There aren't a huge number of dioecios vegetables, which makes asparagus interesting.

With asparagus you want many long and fat dense spears that are not fibrous, when they start to become thinner you stop harvesting for the year. It is common advice to remove/kill all female plants as the males are said to provide larger yields of fatter, longer, and better quality spears. It is common advice that female asparagus produce thin spears so can be weeded out early.

But is this really true? I have never met anyone who has tested this theory, have you?

 

I have always wondered if this was true or just another garden myth that people spread about. I used to have heaps of seed grown green asparagus plants scattered through our orchards, some produced fatter or longer spears than others. I never noticed any difference between the males and females.  But these grew from seeds deposited by birds, and were various ages, and none of them were watered or weeded, so you can't really draw any sensible conclusions from that.

I also had a female purple asparagus plant that used to grow the fattest and most succulent spears I have ever seen. Perhaps that is a variety trait and male plants of the same variety would be even better? 

I wanted to do a comparison to see if this is the case, but I lack the necessary resources to run a trial properly. As I could not run this trial to get this information myself I looked up some peer reviewed papers, and the results were really surprising.

Female asparagus producing long fat straight spears

Firstly there were a bunch of papers claiming that certain all male F1 cultivars (or 'male dominated' F1 cultivars) out yield traditional heirloom varieties that have both male and female plants. That is nice, and useful information for commercial production. This wasn't surprising, many F1 vegetable hybrids out yield tastier heirloom varieties. I want to compare the yield and quality of male to female of the same variety, not just comparing one variety to another. I am also interested in quality, not just quantity.

I found a few papers published in 1909 saying that all male asparagus fields provide higher yields than mixed fields. After reading though the methods it sounds like the mixed fields had issues with competition (from seedlings) rather than being a direct comparison between male asparagus and female asparagus plants. Again this is useful for commercial growers, but not all that useful for home growers with small numbers of plants.

Purple asparagus

So I kept looking and I stumbled across a bunch of papers, some published recently and others were far older than I am, and they compared male to female asparagus plants of the same variety to one another. Some papers focused on just one variety, others focused on multiple varieties, and they all had similar trends.

I will provide the full abstract of one of these papers, and then use sentences from others to highlight the findings.

 

Comparison of spear yield and quality between male and female asparagus plants in protected mother fern culture (https://www.ishs.org/ishs-article/1223_24)

"A higher yield of spears is generally obtained from male asparagus plants than females in outdoor culture. However, recently in Japan, it was reported that the spear weight and yield of female plants was generally greater than those of males in rootstock-planting forcing or mother fern culture. 'UC157' plants were grown in large black polyethylene pots. Spears were harvested daily and their weight and external appearance were recorded for four and two years, respectively. Spear numbers were not significantly different between male and female plants in spring, and tended to be greater per male plant than per female plant from summer to autumn. Mean spear weights per female plant were significantly higher than those per male plant in spring and from summer to autumn. Spear yields per female plant were also significantly higher than those per male plant during spring, whereas no significant differences were found from summer to autumn. Spearhead tightness, an important external quality indicator, was significantly better in female plants than males. From these results, we concluded that in spring, the spear yield and quality of female plants would be better than those of male plants without causing a difference in the annual yield. Therefore, a choice of all-male varieties seems to be not necessary and all female cultivation could be profitable for protected mother fern culture in Japan, since the price of spears in spring and heavier spears is higher in the Japanese asparagus market".

 

A large scale experiment which compared male and female asparagus plants from several varieties published in 2016 said: 
"The results of this study show that the female plants had a significantly higher rootstock weight, weight per spear per plant, and weight per early spear per plant, whereas the male plants had a significantly higher total spear number per plant, early spear number per plant, and significantly fewer days to first harvest".

Another paper said: 
“With the average stalk diameter there was no difference between male and female plants in 1964; in the first two years the diameter of the female plants was larger than that of the male”.

Yet another paper stated: 
“Female plants had higher stalks and longer length to primary branch than male plants”.

Another paper states: 
“…highest number of very thick spears appears generally in female plants”.

 

This is all incredibly interesting, it means that female asparagus plants do not necessarily produce fewer spears in spring (when I am harvesting them), or thinner spears, or spears of lower quality than male asparagus plants. 

If anything these papers demonstrate that female asparagus plants often produce fatter, longer, better quality spears while males tend to produce more spears that are shorter, thinner, and of poorer quality.

Female asparagus producing berries

Knowing this, the first thing you do is ask why we have always been told to remove and kill all female asparagus plants.

 

I believe this advice is mostly due to female asparagus’ incompatibility with large scale commercial production, and partly due to the extra work required to look after them for home gardeners long term. 

Male asparagus plants flower and then the flower falls off, female asparagus plants flower and produce little red fruits that are filled with seeds. In time the female asparagus plants drop their fruit, the seeds eventually germinate and the bed gets choked with too many plants, leading to a reduction in quantity and quality of yield. Sometimes birds eat the berries and deposit the seeds in concentrated places causing a bit of a weed issue.

For a commercial grower with acres of asparagus this would be devastating and costly/difficult to overcome. Spraying a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent seedlings from growing sounds like extra time and money being spent, growing only male plants would be better in this situation. 

In a commercial scale, producing many thin spears often results in higher profits than growing fatter, longer, higher quality spears. Remember that people in cities need to eat, and commercial agriculture must focus on profits and feeding landless people. If they didn't we would have massive famines in the city. Commercial agriculture must focus on producing large quantities of food that people can afford, often this is done at the expense of quality.

Commercial asparagus growers tend to want thin spears. I have even seen certain asparagus varieties described as having thick spears, and then recommending planting closer than normal so they will produce thinner spears.

When growing food in the back yard can focus on quality.  Quantity is nice, but when home grown it comes second to producing high quality food.

Asparagus surviving the heat and dry

For a home grower with a small number of plants who is growing for personal consumption rather than profit, this news is not so gloomy. In the long term they either need to remove all the berries, or carefully dig up and transplant the seedlings, otherwise the bed gets choked and only thin spears are produced. On the other hand, as a home grower with few plants it isn’t too hard to pull the berries off and sow them somewhere, providing you with extra asparagus plants to either keep or give away. So this extra work actually becomes a positive. 

According to the literature above, female plants often produce longer, fatter spears of higher quality. These are exactly the traits that I want when growing asparagus!

If you are growing food at home you may as well grow the best. I am not growing asparagus to sell the spears, I am growing to eat them. So if the choice I have to make is either more spears that are thin and low quality, or less spears if they are fatter and of superior quality, I will choose the latter every time.

Asparagus growing between QLD arrowroot

Personally my plants are all seed grown and I just grow whatever. I have a mix of male plants and female plants and I normally remove the berries. 

 

I have grown asparagus from seed, it takes a lot of time and effort so most people prefer to buy dormant crowns. I have been reluctant to sell seed grown asparagus as (unless I grew an "all male" F1 hybrid) a mix of male and female would be produced and I wasn’t sure if the female plants were worth it. I certainly don’t want to sell low quality plants. 

Now that I know more about the quality of female asparagus plants, and why we are told to remove female asparagus plants, I plan to get some seeds of a few heirloom varieties to grow them out and offer year old crowns for sale.  

Keep an eye on my for sale page from next winter and I will try to have a few crowns of heirloom asparagus varieties for sale.

Chilean Guava

For a few years I have been growing a plant with the common name of Chilean guava (Ugni molinae).  I think there has been a push of late to call them "Tazzie Berry" or "Tassie Berry" to make them more marketable while people think they are a new fruit.  According to wikipedia  it is native to Chile and Southern Argentia where the local Spanish name is "murta", and the Mapuche Native American name is "Uñi" or "Uñiberry". 

This is a nice enough looking shrub that grows really nice tasting fruit.  I have read that they were the favorite fruit of England's Queen Victoria.  Perhaps she actually liked them, or perhaps she liked having something that at the time would undoubtedly have been rare and impossible for most people to buy and therefore extremely prestigious, or perhaps a little of each.

I don't think Chilean guava love blazing heat, so I try to grow them in partial shade.  They take frost, but it sometimes damages the new growth, so I try to grow them near a wall where they experience slightly less severe frosts.  Their growth rate is not overly fast and they are evergreen.

Unfortunately I don't think I have quite worked out its preferred growing conditions.  I grow mine in a pot and each year it grows larger and flowers like crazy but I never get huge numbers of ripe fruits.

At the start of the season it is absolutely covered in unopened flowers.  They normally stay like this for so long I begin to wonder if it has flowered but I missed it and they started to turn to berries.  Then they eventually open and I remember that the unopened flowers stay on the shrub for a long time.

Chilean guava unopened flower buds

After what seems like forever, the flowers begin to open.  There are usually hundreds upon hundreds of flowers, almost too many to believe, and they open successively over a very long time.

The flowers are white or light pink and rather pretty.  Oddly enough I have never seen any pollinating insect on them.  I have tried hand pollinating and it has not made a noticeable difference to fruit set.  Over the next few weeks the shrub is incredibly pretty with all of its flowers.

Chilean guava flowers starting to open

Soon enough the petals drop, and each flower begins to turn into a little fruit.  At this stage I look at the many hundreds of fruits and start to expect a massive harvest.  Each branch is loaded down with dozens of tiny unripe fruits.

Chilean guava berries starting to form

Then for some as yet unknown reason, many of the immature fruits begin to abort.  They do this at different stages, some are far more developed than others.  There are literally hundreds of fruits dropping off each day for a few weeks.  I really don't understand why.

If this were due to lack of pollination they should have aborted earlier.  Perhaps the soil isn't right, maybe they need more water, or frost or heat or wind gets them.  Hopefully I work out how to stop this as I would love to pick thousands of these fruit from each small shrub.

Chilean guava covered in unripe fruits

Tiny fruits starting to abort

Eventually a few of the fruits ripen after they reach pea size.  I don't think I have taken any pictures of the ripe fruit as they are usually eaten pretty fast.  It would be nice if there was some commercial grower of these as they taste nice and I am sure there would be a market for them.

I am bad a describing taste.  To me they taste really good, a bit like strawberry crossed with a pine tree.  That sounds dreadful.  Perhaps someone else would be better at describing the taste than I am!  Even though my description is not flattering they really do taste good.  They smell great, similar to some tropical fruit mixed with pine tree.  I really don't think I am doing this justice.

The texture of the flesh is like a firm slightly dry banana.  Again this sounds bad, but it is really very nice.  I don't think I am all that good at describing this kind of thing.  I am better skilled at growing/breeding/eating things than I am at describing them.

The leaves smell like spices when crushed.  I tried eating one once and was not impressed with the taste or the texture as they were very tough.  I grow them for the fruits, and for the flowers, I don't even know if the leaves are toxic so I don't intend to eat the leaves again.

Over the season we sometimes get hail and crazy wind, invariably it breaks of a few small branches.  I try to use these to grow a few new plants.  I am told that Chilean guava is simple to grow from cuttings, for me they sometimes take a few weeks and other times take a few months to grow roots.

If I have any spare cutting grown plants that have strong roots and are actively I sell them through my for sale page.  If you are interested have a look.  I don't take pre-orders because I can't guarantee how long it will take for them to root.

Silkie chicken hatch

We bred silkie chickens in the past.  They are a lovely breed of chicken.  When we moved to acreage we decided to get a larger dual purpose breed so got rid of our silkies and breed plymouth rocks.  I loved the rocks, they are an amazing breed that is perfect for acreage.

Now we are back in town the plymouth rocks are too large, so we have barnevelders for eggs.  They aren't pets though, the kids aren't allowed to pat them, so we decided to also get a smaller breed for the kids to cuddle.  A friend gave us a few bantams to see if we could make it work.  The kids love them, so we decided to get a few more for the kids to have as pets.

Silkies are perfect cuddle chickens, and I love silkies, so we decided to get silkies again.  Depending on how they were raised they can be adorable bundles of fluff who love cuddles, or they can be moody things that sulk over there and wish you weren't anywhere near them.  As they were intended to be cuddle chickens we decided to hatch eggs and raise them with the kids rather than buy point of lay.

We bought some silkie chicken eggs and did a hatch.  We got a handful of different colours which was fun.  One thing I love about silkie chickens is how cute they are when they are tiny!

Silkie chicken hatchlings

The silkie chickens grew fast, and before we knew it they were living outside in a cage and no longer under heat.  We put a ramp into their house as they took a while to learn how to use the ladder.  They aren't the brightest breed of chicken, but that doesn't make them any less lovable.

It wasn't long until the silkies were too big for their cage and were allowed to free range during the day.  We also have a silkie rooster and a few other bantam chickens, so we had them in different houses at night but mingling in the yard together during the day.  At the start they kept completely separate from each other.

We already had a lovely blue silkie rooster, so decided to separate the boys from the girls before there was any trouble.  I love the colours of some of the boys, too bad they weren't girls as I would have kept the splash silkie, the buff one, and the red one.  The splash rooster was the friendliest and most loving I have ever seen.

The girls kept free ranging with the rooster and the other bantams, they became one flock pretty easily as they had plenty of space to get away from one another.

Unlike many other breeds, silkies are not too hard on the lawn.  If the grass got too long they stay away from it!  Silkies aren't the best at reducing insect numbers under the fruit trees, but they are better than nothing.

The boys lived in a different cage out the front yard, it took a few months before they explored far enough to possibly mingle, then we put up a little fence.  They don't fly, and aren't smart enough to work out how to get through the large gaps in the fence, so our problem was solved.

Even though silkie chickens are not very effective foragers compared to many other chicken breeds, having the boys in the front yard meant slightly less mowing for me.  We have raised vegetable gardens, the boys foraged between them and helped lower the number of insects.  This is good and bad, as they do not discriminate between pests and beneficial arthropods.

I really loved the splash rooster and the red one, they were friendly and every day when I got home from work they would run over for a cuddle.  Being extra roosters they were eventually heading to the freezer, and I was worried that I was far too attached to them.  I started to try and think of a way I could keep them as they were so docile and lovely but really couldn't think of anything.

I am happy to say that someone bought those two and is planning to breed from them!  What a great outcome.  I hope they love their new homes.

If you would like a silkie rooster and can pick him up let me know using the contact form on the right hand side of this page.  I still have some white, grey, buff, and blue silkie roosters.  Any that don't get homes soon will end up as my dinner.

Mulberry Leaf Vegetable

I love mulberries. They are an amazing fruit that you usually can’t buy from the markets as they don't store and are just too delicate to transport long distances. The trees are quick and easy to grow, high yielding, look nice, provide good shade, are long lived, and the leaves/branches are excellent animal fodder. White mulberries are also one of the few fruit trees that can grow from a tiny cutting and fruit the following year.

Mulberry leaves are said to be very rich in magnesium, potassium, zinc, calcium, and are really high in iron. They are meant to be a rich source of several vitamins, phenolics, and antioxidants. According to the FAO, mulberry leaf contains 15% to 28% protein, which is high for a leaf vegetable.

Considering how easy mulberry trees are to grow here, and how they really suffer no pest or disease problems in my garden, and how healthy they are meant to be, I thought I may as well give mulberry a try as a leaf vegetable.

My white mulberry back in spring

I have heard for many years that mulberry leaf can be used as a vegetable, and that mulberry leaves can be used to make tea. I have eaten raw leaves a few times and find them uninspiring. For some reason I had never tried the leaves cooked or as herbal tea before. So last spring and summer I picked some nice young leaves from my mulberry trees and my children and I gave this a try.

I used fresh young leaves and made a kind of herbal tea with them. It tasted nice enough, not bitter or horrible in any way, but nothing really outstanding. I would compare the taste to green tea, but maybe more leafy - if that makes sense. It smelled similar to green tea, kind of, there was nothing overpowering or unpleasant. Nothing really stood out to me, it was ok.

My kids thought it was ok too, none of them disliked it but none were overly enthusiastic over it. I have made this tea again a few times, I drink it but if my kids have the option they will usually go for something fruitier like pineapple sage tea. I think you can use dried leaf for tea, but we only used them fresh.

Over spring and summer I cooked some of the tender young mulberry leaves as a vegetable and shared that with the kids. Ok, maybe I didn’t really cook them. Maybe we just ate the leaves that had just been used to make our mulberry leaf tea, but the end result is the same.

Many leaf vegetables have bitter or unpleasant after tastes and sometimes leave you with a weird feeling in your mouth, mulberry leaf vegetable did not have this. It tasted nice enough, kind of leafy which was to be expected. My kids enjoyed it and asked for more, I think the novelty of eating cooked mulberry leaf made them ask for more.

No one disliked mulberry leaf as a cooked vegetable, probably because its taste was mild and not overpowering. Being mild tasting I think that it would go well in many dishes in place of other vegetables, or to compliment other vegetables, or as a side dish with a meal.

I picked these tender young leaves

I am amazed at how many different climates a mulberry tree will survive in (tropics through to temperate as long as they have enough water), and how long lived and productive they can be, yet how infrequently they are exploited by people as a food source. The berries are utterly delicious, the leaves and stems can be fed to livestock, but the leaves are really quite healthy for people appear to be completely underutilised as a cooked vegetable.

I wonder if there is some reason people don't cook and eat mulberry leaves as a vegetable more often. Perhaps it was once a famine food so people didn't eat it in better times and its potential use as a food has since been forgotten?

I think I need to find room to grow a few more mulberry trees. I love the berries and now that I know that I can use the leaf as tea or a cooked vegetable they are even more useful to have around.

White shahtoot mulberry

I really like my white shahtoot mulberry.  Each spring it is absolutely covered in long sweet mulberries.  As we are heading into winter here in Australia my mulberry trees are going dormant.  Then in spring they will erupt in catkins and leaves.

Most white mulberries (Morus alba) have dark fruit that causes mess.  White mulberry doesn't refer to the fruit colour as white mulberries come in white, pink, purple, or dark black.  Unfortunately most 'black mulberries' sold in Australia labelled with the binomial name of Morus nigra are either incorrectly labelled white mulberries with dark fruit, or are hybrids of white mulberries, instead of the black mulberry species.  I would love to get a black mulberry one day as their flavour is absolutely superb but I am yet to find anywhere that actually has one for sale,  but I am getting off topic.

As the white shahtoot mulberries are green/white when ripe, instead of dark purple/black, they don't stain faces, or hands, or washing, or cars etc.

White shahtoot mulberry is either a species of its own (it is often claimed to be Morus macroura), or it is a hybrid between the white mulberry and another mulberry species (which is highly likely).  My white shahtoot is grafted onto white mulberry rootstock.  When it is larger I would like to graft a few more of them.

Like many other mulberries, white shahtoot mulberries are pretty low maintenance and highly productive.  The bowl of mulberries above was collected one day and was pretty standard for the amount that was collected most days while it was fruiting.  This does not include the ones I ate whole picking, or the ones the kids ate while no one was looking, or anything that was stolen by birds or other animals.

The mulberries on white shahtoot are quite long, making them fast and easy to pick.  When they are ripe they change colour slightly, when ripe even the slightest touch makes them come off the tree, and slightly under ripe mulberries still taste good, so harvest is a breeze.

At this stage my tree has only grown slowly and is still very small.  Even as a small tree it is absolutely covered in berries in season.  I can hardly wait to see how productive this thing is when it is larger!

Shahtoot mulberry, one branch laden with fruit in Spring

Look how productive they are!

I don't think that the white shahtoot handles hard frost as well as other mulberries.  Each spring it seems to have some minor damage to a few branches.  That being said, my little tree has survived a few winters of hard frosts and is growing larger and stronger each year.  I am told that once it is larger the frosts will be less of an issue.

I have had a few berries that are forked, unfortunately I didn't notice until they were picked so haven't any pictures of them

At this stage I only have the one little tree.  I am told they don't grow from cuttings very well and are best grafted.  This spring I plan to try and graft a few more.  If that goes well I may be able to sell them through my for sale page.

Yellow fruited raspberries in Australia

This past summer I had a few people comment on my yellow fruited raspberries.  Most people were taken by their stunning colour.  The people who tasted them were amazed by their delicately floral and surprisingly sweet taste.  They are an impressive plant and something that always generates interest in the garden.

Yellow fruited raspberries, productive and tasty

These yellow raspberries are a slightly different version of the regular red raspberries.  There are very few places in Australia to get yellow fruited raspberries and I count myself lucky to have had a chance to grow them.  The plants look like ordinary red raspberries, they grow the same, they spread the same, they flower the same, but the fruit is yellow instead of red, and it tastes different.

I would almost say yellow raspberries feel different in the mouth, but I grow a few varieties of red raspberries and each of them feels slightly different in the mouth, so this trait probably isn't unique to yellow raspberries.

The yellow fruited raspberries I grow are quite productive.  Sometimes they grow a few flowers, but mostly they have clusters.  The berries don't all ripen at once, so the harvest gets spread out somewhat.

Yellow fruited raspberries - this cluster eventually had nine raspberries

Spreading out the harvest instead of ripening all at once means that if birds happen to steal some, of if there is a swarm of bugs, or if the weather turns dreadfully hot and the plants get fried, I should still get to enjoy some of these yellow raspberries.

Yellow fruited raspberries - berries don't ripen all at once

There is a story that birds ignore yellow raspberries (and yellow or white strawberries) and will only eat the red ones.  Many passerine birds do see red especially well, so this story almost seems logical.  Many people swear by it, and I even see places advertise white or yellow strawberries to 'beat the birds'.

Birds, however, are not that simplistic.  If they were they would have all died out long ago.  Birds eat yellow raspberries in my garden just as much as the red ones, perhaps a little more so.  I don't lose a lot of berries to birds, so I normally just let them share.  Strangely enough, I lose far more white or yellow strawberries to birds than I do red ones when they are grown side by side, but that is a story for another time.

If you have trouble with birds, net your raspberries to protect them, don't rely on their colour to stop birds from taking them.

Yellow raspberries taste similar to a red raspberry, but yellow raspberries tend to be sweeter and more floral.  I quite like them and my kids seem to prefer them to the red raspberries.  While I enjoy the taste of yellow raspberries, I grow both red and yellow fruiting raspberry plants.  If I had to chose a favourite I think I prefer most of the red ones.

Yellow fruiting raspberries

Over winter when my plants are dormant I sell yellow fruited raspberry plants (as well as a few varieties of thornless red raspberries).  I don't have huge numbers, but I should have a few extras most winters.  I can post them, but not to WA or Tasmania or outside of Australia.  If you are interested they are listed on my for sale page.

Drosera Capensis from seed

When I was young I grew a cape sundew (Drosera capensis), it lived for many years and was rather large by the end.  It was the first carnivorous plant I successfully grew, through that plant I learned how to grow carnivorous plants, how to things from seed, basic seed saving, how to take cuttings, and some basic plant breeding.

They are so easy to grow that I ended up with more of them than I could count.  The lessons I learned from it allowed me to successfully grow and reproduce venus fly traps, and I eventually grew a whole lot of other carnivorous plants too.  I missed growing carnivorous plants.

For a few years I have wanted to grow carnivorous plants again, but haven't had the money or space, and I had nowhere safe from my kids to grow them.

Drosera capensis sending up a flower stalk - not my photo

Recently I got some seed of Drosera capensis.  Seed was cheaper than buying a plant, but it is risky as seedlings are tiny that things can go wrong and old seed or poorly stored seed can have low or no germination rates.

I had good rates of germination and decided to record the number of days from planting the seed.  If I remember I will try to record the flowering date, but that is a few months away and any number of things could happen between now and then.

Days to germinate Drosera capensis
Seed planted             22/03/2019      Day 0
Germinated              06/04/2019       Day 15
Carnivorous leaves   21/04/2019      Day 30
Seeds ready to plant 19/12/2020      Around 21 months under poor conditions

Drosera capensis seedlings

The seeds are tiny, several would fit on the full stop at the end of this sentence.  The seedlings are far too tiny at the moment for me to be able to take a decent picture, so I found some pictures on the internet of mature plants.

For a full list of vegetable days to maturity (I know that sundews are not really vegetables) please click here.

Drosera capensis leaf curling around prey - not my photo