Wednesday, 22 July 2026

Growing Saffron in Canberra Region

I first planted saffron (Crocus sativus) around 2018, and after growing saffron continuously for several years in the Canberra region, I have learned a few things about what works (and what didn't).  In late April this year my saffron started flowering.  It normally flowers around Easter for me, the last two years my saffron has been a little later than normal. 

I find saffron easy to grow organically.  Saffron seems especially well suited to the conditions of the Canberra region.  

I have received a few questions about saffron, plus it flowered recently, and I thought I would write another blog post on it. 

Saffron crocus flower
Saffron crocus flower pulled apart to show my kids

Why I'm hesitant to write this post 

Last time I wrote a blog post on saffron my blog received several unpleasant comments such as the one below.  Other messages were calling me names and other messages telling me to kill myself.  

At the time, I didn't know who was sending them, or why.

Message seems to have been left by unhappy church member
One comment left on my blog

Without going into detail, I later came across information that caused me to believe some of the comments may have been connected to people I had known through a baptist church I attended several years earlier.

Following the influx of hostile comments, I changed my blog settings so only users with Google accounts could leave comments.  After making that change, the hostile comments have stopped.  

I was disappointed with how my concerns over this and other serious allegations of misconduct were not investigated by the Baptist Standards Unit.  My personal experience left me feeling that concerns about controlling behaviour and unhealthy leadership dynamics are not taken seriously at an institutional level.  

While I doubt people will continue to leave comments like the one above with their names attached, and I doubt the comments were in any way related to saffron, I still feel hesitant to write a blog post about saffron.  Even thinking about my saffron flowering fills me with anxiety.  It's interesting how the mind works.  
Fresh saffron threads
Saffron threads - the darker coloured area is strongest

Why the Canberra region is ideal for growing saffron 

The Canberra region is known for having hot dry summers, and cold winters.  Saffron performs best when given hot dry summers when the corms are dormant, and cold winters when the plants are actively growing.  Sounds like a good match. 

The corms need to be dry when dormant, or they rot.  Heat when they are dormant also helps them flower better, I will explain that more below.  I have no idea how the cold winters while they are actively growing helps them, but I have cold winters and they perform well for me here.  

Saffron plants grow from corms.  A corm is similar to a bulb in many ways, and many people would use the terms interchangeably.  

Saffron is a sterile triploid, meaning it can not produce viable seed.  As saffron can't produce seed, it must be grown from corms.  Luckily, saffron corms are simple to grow, and they divide reasonably quickly. 

Home grown saffron threads ready for use
Saffron threads stored in a little glass jar

Saffron corms are dormant over summer, they sprout in autumn and grow during the cooler seasons.  Sometimes saffron sends up a flower before the foliage, other times they send up leaves first and then flowers.  Both are fine.  

If the corms are too small they may not flower that year.  Look after these small corms, and they will be big enough to flower the following year. 

When saffron flowers, it tends to send up several flowers, and it does this across a few different days.  You have to keep an eye on your saffron patch during the season otherwise you may miss the flowers.  

Fresh organically grown saffron before drying
Fresh saffron threads before drying

What saffron plants look like 

The leaves of saffron plants look a bit like grass.  When not in flower, saffron is uninteresting to look at, but it doesn't look bad.  It just kind of blends in.

I don't have enough space to devote to saffron.  I grow some saffron in the garden among berries and things, and some saffron in pots of soil.  Both perform well for me. 

When planting saffron, if it is planted too shallow it tends not to flower.  Shallow planted corms (10cm) usually divide into many small corms.  Deep planted saffron (15-20cm) tend to flower better, and divide into fewer, but larger corms.  

I grow a bit of both, the deeper planted ones give me more flowers that year and the following year, the shallow planted ones increase the numbers. 

Saffron plants sprouting 

This year, mostly due to over crowding, I did not get a lot of saffron flowers.  As you can see, this pot has far too many corms.  I have a few pots of saffron, most are crowded.  I ran out of space and decided it was better to crowd them for a year or two rather than not planting at all.

The saffron planted in my garden are flowering, and some of the larger ones in the pots are flowering, but most of the container grown saffron did not flower this year.  

I top dressed these pots with compost.  This will feed the corms and hopefully they will grow fat and be large enough to flower next year.  

Saffron top dressed with compost 
Saffron plants later in the season
Saffron plants look like grass

Saffron corm flowering size 

Saffron corms flower when they are large enough.  The way I tell if a corm is flowering size is by measuring their circumference.  I don't measure the diameter, it is too unreliable, I measure the circumference. 

Saffron corms are not very round, they have flat edges and things, so measuring the diameter doesn't work.  Instead, I wrap a piece of string or something around them and then measure the string, that gives me the corm's circumference.  

Saffron corms with a circumference of 7cm or more will flower, anything smaller may not flower that year.  

Small saffron corms
Saffron corms are dormant over summer

Saffron needs heat when dormant 

Many perennial vegetables suffer from virus load.  Things such as potatoes have diminished yields, and can eventually fail completely, unless they are cleared of viruses.    

One study identified 17 viruses that affect saffron, and other studies suggest saffron yields may be decreased by several more viruses.  As saffron can't be grown from seed, virus load could potentially be an issue. 

Luckily, the traditional way to grow saffron effectively eliminates viruses.  One study states that saffron viruses can be eliminated by thermotherapy, this is where the corms spend 30 to 40 days at 35 °C.  You could place corms in an incubator for 40 days to eliminate virus load, but this can be avoided.

Saffron needs a hot dry summer to flower well, this is likely because it is destroying the virus load.  

When growing saffron, some years I leave the corms in the soil, others I dig and lift them.  I store the lifted saffron corms in a mesh bag in my garage.  Over summer it is hot in my garage, it reaches over 35C, and while the temperature drops at night it rises the following day.  Most summers the corms in my garage get more than 40 days of these high temperatures, which naturally eliminates virus load without the need for an incubator.  In the Canberra region, these higher temperatures are reached naturally over summer.  

My saffron usually flowers well each year, I guess this is because it has had the virus load largely eliminated through storing the corms hot and dry.  

Saffron flower parts
Saffron flowers are pretty, and they smell nice

Increasing saffron yield

Interestingly, I've read a few studies such as https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6604984/ which indicate natural soil bacteria can help saffron yields increase.  

Plant Growth Promoting Rhizobacteria are natural soil bacteria.  Some species, such as Curtobacterium herbarum, are demonstrated in several studies to increase the number of saffron flowers and significantly enhance the length of the saffron filaments. 

I grow everything organically, and have a large range of plants growing.  While I am not sure if C herbarum is present in my soil, there is a good chance it may be.  It is present in the Canberra region, and given the wide range of plants I grow there is a good chance it has inoculated at least one of them, and should be able to spread from there to my saffron.  

If this species is present, research suggests it should increase the number of flowers, and the length of the threads.  This may be another of the possible reasons why my saffron usually flowers well each year. 

Saffron threads from one small plant
Saffron from 1 small corm - 3 flowers

Growing saffron at home is cheaper 

Growing your own saffron at home organically is nice, and it is cheaper than buying this spice from the shops.  Given where the majority of saffron in the world is grown, presumably saffron will become even more expensive as time goes on. 

To give an idea of the benefit:cost ratio of growing your own saffron, one company in Victoria currently sells small packets of saffron threads for $3.  These packets contain 6-9 threads, which is meant to be enough saffron for an average dish for 4 people.  

To give an idea of how much this is, the pictures of the little glass jar on this blog post contain 9 threads.  Small saffron corms tend to produce 3 or 4 flowers each, which produce 9-12 threads in their first year.  This means in their first year, each small saffron corm using current retail prices, produces about $3 worth of saffron threads. 

Each year after that the saffron corms tend to grow larger, and produce more flowers.  Individual corms also multiply.  All of this means your initial small investment keeps paying for itself more and more as time goes on.

Saffron grown in the Canberra region
Organically grown saffron threads

Where to buy saffron corms 

If you are interested in growing your own organic saffron at home, I sell saffron corms over summer when they are dormant.  I can post to most of Australia, but not overseas at this stage.  

I've never tried to post the spice itself, only the live corms for people to grow their own.  I guess I could post saffron spice in little glass jars or something like that.  I may give that a try in the future. 

The Canberra region is pretty perfect for growing saffron, it has hot dry summers and cold winters.  I am sure saffron can also grow well in many other places, but have only tried growing it in the Canberra region.  


Saturday, 18 July 2026

What Happens if You Ferment Filmjölk for 4 Weeks? (I Tried It)

The Four-Week Culture: What Happens When Filmjölk Lives Too Long?

Fermentation is a dance with living organisms, and usually, we step in right when the rhythm is perfect. With filmjölk, that sweet spot is normally around 24 hours on the counter. But what happens if you just let it keep going?  Driven by pure curiosity, I left a batch of traditional Swedish filmjölk fermenting for an entire month, tasting it and documenting the changes every seven days. 

From subtle changes in texture to a dramatic transformation in flavour and appearance, here is what happens when you push this countertop culture to its absolute limits, week by fascinating week.

Filmjölk still edible after 14 days
Whey separation after two weeks of room-temperature fermentation

Safety First

Wild fermentation is a beautiful process, but safety should always come first. 

This post documents my personal experiment to observe microbial behavior over an extended period.  Standard filmjölk is fermented for 24-48 hours. 

This documents my personal experiment rather than a recommended method of preparing filmjölk.  If mould develops, unusual colours appear, or the culture smells obviously spoiled, discard it immediately.  Never consume dairy that looks or smells unsafe. 

Disclosure: Some links below are Amazon affiliate links.  If you make a purchase through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.  I only recommend products that I use myself or would happily use in my own kitchen.

The Baseline: What is Filmjölk Supposed to Be?

Before diving into a month of microbial madness, we need a baseline.  What should filmjölk look, smell, and taste like.

In its standard form, filmjölk is a traditional Swedish fermented milk product.  Unlike regular yoghurt, which requires high temperatures to culture, filmjölk relies on several mesophilic bacteria.  These microbes thrive at room temperatures, allowing the milk to ferment in a jar on my kitchen counter. 

Under normal circumstances, the fermentation process is short and sweet, generally lasting anywhere from 18 to 48 hours.  

I culture mine in simple glass jars.  I strongly prefer wide-mouth fermentation jars because they're easier to fill, clean and scoop from than recycled jars with narrow necks.

For Australian readers I recommend these wide-mouth fermentation jars.

For international readers these are the wide-mouth fermentation jars I recommend.

A standard batch of homemade filmjölk should hit these notes:

Texture: Thick, smooth, and distinctly pourable.  It should comfortably coat the back of a spoon, sitting right in the goldilocks zone between regular milk and thick yoghurt.  I prefer mine thicker, so generally allow it to ferment a little longer. 

Flavour: Mildly tangy and acidic with a unique, subtle buttery undertone.  This buttery aroma comes from diacetyl, a natural byproduct of the mesophilic fermentation process.  My kids say it is like drinkable sour cream. 

Appearance: Uniformly white, glossy, and completely cohesive, with little to no separation of liquid whey.  Photographing filmjölk isn't easy.  A fresh batch looks remarkably similar to ordinary milk in a photograph.

This is the comforting, delicious baseline we are aiming for.  

But what happens when you leave those living bacteria in charge for 600 hours longer than they expect?  Let’s find out.

Summary of filmjölk over-fermentation experiment

Fermentation TimeTextureFlavourMy Verdict
24–48 hoursSmooth, thick and pourableMildly tangy with buttery notesExcellent
7 daysThicker with slight whey separationNoticeably sharper but still pleasantStill Very Good
14 daysFirm curds with lots of wheyQuite acidicEdible, but not my favourite
21 daysOdd textureUnusual aroma and flavourI stopped serving it to my kids
28 daysVery strange appearance and textureUnpleasantI wouldn't eat it again - possibly unsafe


Week 1: The Subtle Shift in Tartness

After seven days the filmjölk was noticeably thicker than normal and had begun to separate slightly, with a small amount of whey collecting around the edges.  The flavour had become noticeably more acidic, but it still retained the buttery notes that make filmjölk distinctive.

At this stage I was still happy to eat it, and my kids tried some as well.  None of us noticed any ill effects, although the stronger flavour was starting to move away from what I normally enjoy.

One unexpected lesson from this experiment had nothing to do with fermentation.  I usually culture filmjölk in wide-mouth jars, but this time I used a recycled narrow-necked jar.  Every time I scooped some out I made a mess, which reminded me why wide-mouth fermentation jars are so much more practical.  

This experiment reminded me why I normally use wide-mouth fermentation jars.  They're much easier to clean and make it far easier to remove thick filmjölk without making a mess.

For Australian readers I recommend these wide-mouth fermentation jars.

For international readers these are the wide-mouth fermentation jars I recommend.

Filmjölk  after 7 days fermentation
Filmjölk getting thicker after 7 day ferment

Week 2: Separation and the Rise of Whey

By the second week the changes became much more obvious.  A significant layer of whey had separated from the thick curds.  I poured off most of the separated whey before tasting the thicker curd beneath.

This separation is fairly normal in cultured dairy.  I also see similar whey separation when making farmer's kefir cheese or tvorog.

The remaining curd had become quite firm.  I could slice pieces away with a spoon and they briefly held their shape before slowly collapsing.  The flavour was still recognisably filmjölk, although much sharper and less pleasant than a normal 24-hour batch.

I still considered it edible at this stage, even if it was no longer as enjoyable.  Visually it started looking a little strange, but there were no obvious signs of spoilage such as mould or discolouration.

Filmjölk 14 day fermentation experiment
Filmjölk after 14 day fermentation is still good

Week 3: Crossing Into Unknown Territory

After three weeks the filmjölk had changed enough that I became cautious.  The texture had become unusual and the aroma was no longer the familiar buttery smell of fresh filmjölk.  It wasn't the smell of spoiled milk, but it also wasn't something I found overly appealing.

I tasted only a small amount.  I didn't become ill afterwards, but this was the first point in the experiment where I even questioned whether continuing to taste it was a sensible idea.  Because of that uncertainty I didn't let my children try any.

Although I can't say exactly what microbial changes were taking place, it seemed likely that the balance of microorganisms had shifted considerably, although I can't say exactly what was happening without laboratory testing. 

Filmjölk after 21 days of fermentation

Week 4: The Ultimate 30-Day Result

After four weeks the filmjölk no longer resembled something I wanted to eat.  The texture had become strange, the smell was unpleasant, and although I tasted a tiny amount out of curiosity, I had no desire to eat any more.

I didn't experience any illness after that small taste, but I certainly wouldn't recommend intentionally fermenting filmjölk for this long.  Even if it happened to be microbiologically safe, the flavour and texture had deteriorated to the point where there was little reason to continue.

One surprise remained.  Before discarding it, curiosity got the better of me.  I used a spoonful of the four-week-old filmjölk as a starter culture for fresh milk.  To my surprise, it fermented into what looked, smelled, and tasted like perfectly normal filmjölk after 24 hours.  I expected the culture to fail completely or need several generations to recover, but that wasn't what happened.  This was the biggest surprise of the entire experiment.

I simply added a spoonful to fresh milk at room temperature and left it to ferment as normal.  I don't usually measure the temperature exactly, but if your house varies a lot, a thermometer strip can be helpful.

For Australian readers, I recommend these thermometer strips.  They are inexpensive, adhesive, simple to use, and surprisingly accurate.

For readers from the US and other countries, these are the thermometer strips I recommend.

Side note after 4 week fermentation 

One unexpected casualty of this experiment was the jar itself.  The narrow neck made cleaning almost impossible after a month of thick fermented milk, so I eventually gave up and recycled it.  It's another reminder of why I almost always use wide-mouth fermentation jars. 

After throwing away this jar, I was reminded why I almost always use wide-mouth jars for fermentation.  They cost a little more than recycled jars, but after years of making kefir, filmjölk and kombucha I think they're well worth it.

For Australian readers I recommend these wide-mouth fermentation jars.

For US and other international readers these are the wide-mouth fermentation jars I recommend.

This Is Why I Typically Use Wide Mouth Jars


The Verdict: Is 4-Week Filmjölk Edible?

If the question is "Can filmjölk ferment for four weeks?", then the answer is clearly yes.

If the question is "Should you eat four-week-old filmjölk?", my answer is no.

I didn't become ill after tasting small amounts throughout the experiment, but by the third week I was no longer confident enough to recommend eating it, and by the fourth week it simply wasn't enjoyable anyway.  

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you ferment filmjölk for a week?

Yes.  Mine became noticeably thicker and more acidic but was still pleasant to eat.

Can filmjölk ferment for two weeks?

It can, although mine separated into curds and whey and the flavour became sharper.

Can filmjölk ferment for a month?

Mine did, but by that stage the texture, smell, and flavour had deteriorated so much that I wouldn't recommend eating it.  I probably could have fermented it longer, but I didn't enjoy eating it after a month and decided that even longer would likely be less pleasant.

Can over-fermented filmjölk still be used as a starter?

Surprisingly, yes.  In my experiment, a four-week-old culture still successfully fermented fresh milk into a normal batch.

Why did my filmjölk separate into curds and whey?

Whey separation is a normal part of extended fermentation.  As the culture becomes more acidic, the milk proteins tighten and release liquid whey.  Small amounts of separation are perfectly normal, although excessive separation usually means the filmjölk has fermented longer than intended.

Does filmjölk keep fermenting in the refrigerator?

Yes, although much more slowly.  Refrigeration greatly slows the bacteria, but it doesn't stop fermentation completely.  Filmjölk often becomes thicker and tangier the longer it is left in the fridge. 

Where to get filmjölk starter

Want to try making your own filmjölk at home?  I occasionally have live filmjölk cultures available, along with kefir grains, and other fermentation starters.  You can check my current availability here.

If you're outside Australia or I don't have cultures available, you can also buy a freeze-dried filmjölk starter online.  For readers in the United States, this is the filmjölk starter I'd choose because it's inexpensive, easy to use, and produces authentic filmjölk.

Unfortunately, Amazon Australia rarely stocks genuine filmjölk starter cultures.  You can sometimes find Nordic style mesophilic starter cultures instead. While they don't produce traditional filmjölk, they can make a similar cultured milk and are a good introduction to room-temperature dairy fermentation.  

Related Fermentation Articles

How to Make Filmjölk at Home

Filmjölk vs Kefir

Making Milk Kefir at Home

Farmer's Kefir Cheese Recipe

• Two Ingredient Buckwheat Sourdough with Kefir

• Two Ingredient Buckwheat Sourdough with Kombucha

Final Thoughts: The Resiliency of the Culture

Four weeks, one jar, and a massive spectrum of changes.  

A month of continuous fermentation revealed just how resilient a filmjölk culture can be.  The bacteria continued acidifying the milk long after I would normally stop the process, resulting in dramatic changes in flavour, texture, and appearance.

For me, the sweet spot remains somewhere around 24 to 48 hours.  Beyond that, the extra acidity adds little and eventually produces a product that simply isn't enjoyable.

The biggest surprise came at the end of the experiment.  Even after four weeks, a spoonful of the old culture successfully fermented a fresh batch of milk into perfectly normal filmjölk.  The ageing batch had become unpleasant to eat, but the starter culture itself was still very much alive.

Sometimes experiments don't produce a better recipe, they simply teach us where the limits are. 


Wednesday, 15 July 2026

Can Elkhorn Ferns Survive Frost? My 8-Month Cold Climate Update

Almost a Year Later

Elkhorn ferns (Platycerium bifurcatum) are often recommended for warmer climates where they generally thrive.  I wanted to see if they could adapt to my colder garden conditions.  Around eight months ago I mounted several young elkhorn ferns around my garden to see whether they could survive and grow in my cold climate.  Some arrived in excellent condition, while others were already struggling.

I was not expecting to receive these elkhorn ferns, so was rather unprepared when they arrived.  I used string to mount them on scraps of timber, and used compressed cocopeat as the backing.  

If I were mounting these again, I'd use sphagnum moss and attactive staghorn mounting boards (they come in heaps of different styles, so I would pick my favourite looking ones).  I've linked the products I recommend near the end of this article for both Australian and US readers.

I am not an expert when it comes to elkhorn ferns and staghorn ferns, but I am loving growing them.  I wrote a previous post Growing Elkhorn Ferns in cold climate when my ferns were newly mounted.  I have grown Elkhorns when I lived in the subtropics, and also experimented with growing other Platycerium ferns from spores.   

After around seven or eight months, the results with my elkhorn ferns have been mixed.  A few have grown well, some have barely changed, and one didn't survive at all.  I am in a cold climate which is not ideal for growing these ferns, and it is currently mid winter so they are suffering a little from the cold, but that is life in my garden.

I thought it would be useful to show how each fern has performed so far, what I think helped the successful ones, and what I would do differently if I were starting again.

Quick Overview

Fern Starting Condition 8 Month Result My Thoughts
Fern #1 Two plants mounted together One survived and grew Successful despite pest damage
Fern #2 Poorly attached mount Growing well Surprisingly resilient
Fern #3 Already struggling Died Too damaged to recover
Larger fern Temporary mount Producing new fronds Needs proper mounting


Elkhorn Fern #1: Survived Caterpillar Damage

The first elkhorn is surviving and somewhat growing.  This was two plants together, the one on the left died and the one on the right is growing well.  

Not long after I mounted this I noticed frass, and a caterpillar was in the plant on the left.  It ate the growing point and killed that plant.  Normally I would submerge a plant like this to drown caterpillars, but as I mounted on a plank of wood this was not an option.  I used fly spray, which did the job.  

Below you can see comparison photos.

This Elkhorn Fern Survived
This is what it looked like originally

Elkhorn Fern #2: The Surprisingly Successful One

I didn't attach the second elkhorn fern very securely, yet it has turned out to be one of the strongest growers.  The shield fronds have browned off somewhat, which is normal for elkhorns in my climate at this time of year.  It has grown several new foliar fronds that look healthy, and you probably can't see in the photo it is beginning to grow a new shield frond.

This fern has convinced me that elkhorn ferns are more forgiving than their reputation suggests, provided the growing point remains healthy.

Below you will see comparison photos from when I mounted it until now.

This Elkhorn Fern Grew Well
This is what it looked like originally

One Elkhorn Fern Died

Not Every Elkhorn Fern Survived.

This was looking poorly when I mounted it.  One day we had a storm with big winds, and this little fern was snatched away.  I searched for it, but it took me a few days before I found it.  When I found it, the fern looked dry and dead.  I mounted it again just in case, but it was dead and slowly degraded until it completely fell apart.

Below is the photo when I mounted it.  

This one was struggling when I received it

An Elkhorn Fern That Is Still Hanging On

The lowest fern I am not sure about.  When I first mounted it I was confused by its shape and looking back, I think I accidentally mounted it sideways.  This isn't great for them.  

This one elkhorn is still alive, and has grown new fronds.  I am not sure if it will survive, but I have hopes if it gets through winter it might pick up and grow well in spring.  

This fern isn't looking great, but could pick up
This is what it looked like when I mounted it

My Largest Elkhorn Fern Is Growing

I also have one large elkhorn fern.  I temporarily mounted it on a piece of timber using string, and put it in my unheated greenhouse out of the wind.  This one dropped some if its fronds.  Since then it started growing new shield fronds, and new foliar fronds.

This needs to be mounted properly, the string I used is too flimsy and is only doing the job temporarily because it is out of the wind.  

I put this in my greenhouse, and largely forgot about it.  I water it from time to time when it gets dry, and have every intention of mounting it properly.  Given it is winter, I don't want it to put on a lot of new growth until the weather warms.  In spring I plan to mount it better, and may keep it in the greenhouse as it seems to be doing well here.

My largest elkhorn fern is surviving
Elkhorn growing new shield fronds
Large elkhorn fern when I first got it

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between elkhorn and staghorn ferns?

Elkhorn and staghorn ferns are closely related, but they are different species and the common names can sometimes be confusing and often differs between countries and regions.  In Australia, elkhorn ferns (Platycerium bifurcatum) are usually smaller plants that spread by producing pups, eventually forming large clumps.

Staghorn ferns (Platycerium superbum) grow much larger, usually as a single impressive plant, and they are not known for producing pups as readily as elkhorn ferns.

Can elkhorn ferns survive cold climates?

Yes, provided they do not experience many heavy frosts.  Mine have survived down to -5C so far under cover, and I expect temperatures to drop to -10C before winter is over. 

Do elkhorn ferns lose fronds in winter?

Sometimes mine lose foliar fronds over winter, and often the shield fronds brown off.  This is normal and they should resume growing once spring comes.

Can elkhorn ferns grow on timber?

Elkhorn ferns can be mounted on live trees, or timber, or plastic, and some people mount them on stones or tree fern trunks.  

Can Elkhorn Ferns Survive Frost?

Elkhorn ferns can sometimes survive a light frost, especially larger established plants, but they are not frost tolerant.  Sustained heavy frosts, like those we experience in my garden, would likely damage or kill them.

Mine have survived temperatures below freezing so far because they are protected from frost, but I would not expect them to tolerate repeated hard frosts without protection.  Low temperature is less problematic, frost is the issue.

Tips for Growing Elkhorn Ferns in Cold Climates

  • Protect from heavy frost
  • Keep them sheltered from cold winds
  • Mount them where they can drain freely
  • Reduce watering during cold weather

What I Would Do Differently Next Time

Looking back, my biggest mistakes were using string instead of proper garden wire, and mounting them quickly on a plank of wood I had in the garage because I wasn't prepared.  If I received another batch of young elkhorn ferns, I would have proper mounting boards, sphagnum moss, and wire ready beforehand. 

Products I Wish I Had Used

This post contains affiliate links. If you buy through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products that I use myself or would happily use.

If you're planning to mount your own elkhorn ferns, these are the materials I wish I had used for mine.  Had I more time and warning that I was about to receive these incredible plants, I would have bought:

For Australian readers:

Many people use sphagnum moss for mounting elkhorns.  I used coco peat because I had some in the garage at the time.  They both work for elkhorn ferns, but sphagnum moss is a better option. 

Products for US and other International readers:

I have not heavily fertilised these yet because they are still establishing and it is winter so I do not want much growth until spring and the weather is warmer.  I plan to fertilise over the warmer months, fish emulsion is commonly used by fern growers once plants are actively growing. 

Final Thoughts

While not every fern survived, I have been pleasantly surprised by how well most of these elkhorn ferns have adapted to my colder climate.  The healthiest plants are continuing to produce new shield and foliar fronds despite winter conditions, giving me confidence that they will perform even better once spring arrives.

I'll continue updating these ferns as they mature, particularly after another winter, to see whether they become fully established outdoors.

Related Articles

If you enjoyed following this elkhorn fern experiment, you may also enjoy some of my other plant and growing experiments, where I test unusual plants, propagation methods, and growing techniques in my own garden. 


Saturday, 11 July 2026

Blue vs Pink Rosemary: Which One Is Better for Your Garden?

I have grown several rosemary plants over the years, but two have really stood out to me.  Both are unnamed varieties that I originally planted simply as rosemary, yet after growing them side by side for several years I noticed some interesting differences.

The blue-flowering rosemary has become a large, vigorous shrub that provides shade, attracts pollinators, and produces more rosemary than I can use.  The pink-flowering rosemary stays much smaller and more compact, making it a better choice where space is limited.

This isn't a comparison of named commercial cultivars. Instead, it's a practical comparison based on growing these two rosemary plants side by side in my own garden over the past few years.

Which rosemary is better - Quick Answer

If you're choosing between the two, I'd grow the blue rosemary for production and the pink rosemary where space or appearance matters more.  Both taste almost identical.

This post contains affiliate links.  If you purchase something through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.  I only recommend products I personally use or believe would be useful.

Two unnamed varieties of rosemary: comparing blue vs pink
Comparison of blue and pink rosemary varieties

The Large Blue Flowered Rosemary

My blue flowered rosemary is the larger and more vigorous of the two plants.  Blue rosemary is commonly grown in gardens, there are plenty of varieties to choose from.

Mine has now grown to over 6 feet (~1.8 metres) tall and has become one of the largest shrubs in my edible garden.  This plant is a permanent feature beside my chicken run.  I planted it on the western side where it provides some afternoon shade and protection.

One of my favourite things about this rosemary is how much it flowers.  It produces masses of blue flowers.  One thing I notice every time it flowers is how quickly bees and other beneficial insects find it.  On warm sunny days the flowers are often covered with pollinators.

If you are growing rosemary as a large shrub, a good pair of pruning shears makes maintenance much easier, it also makes harvest simple.  

I use these pruning shears, I have smaller hands and find they fit me better than many of the larger styles I have tried.  For me, they are much more comfortable to use when trimming and harvesting herbs.  As this rosemary grows thick woody stems, pruning shears make harvest simple. 

The leaves of my blue rosemary have a strong rosemary aroma and flavour.  Compared with my pink flowering rosemary, I think the aroma is slightly stronger, although if I wasn't growing them side by side I'm not sure I'd notice the difference.

The Pretty Pink Flowered Rosemary

I wrote previously about my pink flowered rosemary, which has a very different growth habit.  This is a rarer rosemary variety. 

Rather than becoming a huge shrub, this plant has stayed shorter and more compact.  It is less vigorous, but the flowers are beautiful and make it a very attractive garden plant.

I think this rosemary would suit smaller gardens, balconies, or growing in pots where a large spreading shrub would become difficult to manage.

Growing pink rosemary and blue rosemary
Pink Rosemary vs Blue Rosemary

Can You Eat Pink Rosemary?

Yes.  My pink flowering rosemary tastes almost identical to the blue flowering plant.  Although I think the blue variety may have a slightly stronger aroma, the difference is subtle.  Both are excellent culinary herbs, and I use them interchangeably in cooking.

Blue vs Pink Rosemary Comparison

Feature Blue Flowered Rosemary Pink Flowered Rosemary
Growth habit Large, vigorous shrub Smaller and more compact
Size Over 6 feet tall Much shorter
Flowers Lots of blue flowers Pretty pink flowers
Pollinators Excellent, many flowers Good, but fewer flowers
Best use Large gardens, hedges, shade planting Pots and smaller spaces
Flavour Very similar, possibly slightly stronger Very similar

If you're growing rosemary in containers, I prefer reasonably large terracotta-style pots because rosemary dislikes sitting in wet soil.  

Rosemary comparison

What About Prostrate Rosemary?

This comparison does not include prostrate rosemary, which is another common type of rosemary with a completely different growth habit.

Prostrate rosemary grows along the ground rather than forming an upright shrub, making it useful for rockeries, retaining walls, and ground cover.  

I grow this too, but it mostly gets lost among my other plants and the upright versions are the ones we mostly use for cooking.  For spilling over retaining walls, my go to plant is Jekka's thyme. 

For this comparison I am only looking at upright rosemary plants.

Do Bees Prefer Blue or Pink Rosemary?

I tend to see honey bees on all my rosemary plants.  The blue variety has more flowers, so tends to have more bees.  As the pink rosemary grows larger, and flowers more, I am expecting it to attract similar amounts of pollinators. 

Rosemary attracts beneficial insects and is great in a permaculture garden
Rosemary attracts many beneficial pollinators

Which Rosemary Would I Grow?

After growing both, I have no plans to remove either one.  They fill different roles in my garden, and that's exactly why I like having both.   

The large blue flowered rosemary is incredibly useful.  It provides height, shade, flowers for pollinators, and plenty of rosemary for cooking.  I grow this on the western side of my chicken run to provide afternoon shade. 

The pink flowered rosemary is less productive as a large shrub, but it earns its place because it is attractive and easier to fit into a smaller space.  This variety still produces enough rosemary for cooking.  I am also growing this near the chicken run for shade, but have it in a place where I want something shorter.

If I only had room for one rosemary plant, I would choose based on the space available rather than flavour.

For a large garden, the vigorous blue flowering type wins.  For a pot or small garden or if I wanted something more unique, the prettier pink flowering rosemary is probably the better choice.

I grow both of these rosemary plants in my own garden, as well as an unnamed prostrate rosemary.  I currently sell the vigorous blue flowered rosemary, and plan to offer the pink flowered type in the future as I build up stock.  My current plants for sale can be found on my plant sale page.

I grow rosemary near my chicken run

Related Posts