Growing staghorn Ferns From Spores: 6 month Update - Which Growing Method Worked Best

I experimented growing staghorn ferns (Platycerium superbum) from spores.  While they had good germination rates and they initially grew well, many refused to grow further until I divided and transplanted them.  I carried out this division around November/December 2025 when they were already about 12 months old.

Around that time, I separated and repotted my staghorn sporelings and wrote a previous post on the process of growing staghorn ferns from spores.  

Staghorn ferns grown from spores 

Growing staghorn ferns from spores can be a slow process, but it can be very rewarding once the plants reach the sporophyte stage.  I also wrote another update about their 3 month progress after division.  

It is now early June 2026, around six months since that division (meaning my spore grown staghorn ferns are now around 18 months old), and it is time to write another update on how these baby ferns are progressing.

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Staghorn ferns grown in seedling flat

These ferns did not perform well in the seedling flat.  Most eventually died, and the few that survived showed very little growth.  The humidity dome was helpful, not only to increase humidity,  but also protecting the tiny ferns from birds and temperature fluctuations.

The main challenge was moisture control, at times they were too wet, and at other times they dried out too much. 

From my experience, this setup is not ideal for beginners growing staghorn ferns from spores.  I won't be attempting to grow staghorn ferns like this again.

Small staghorn fern sporelings grown in a seedling tray after 18 months

Poor survival of staghorn fern spores in seedling flat setup

Humidity dome was helpful for growing sporelings

Staghorn fern sporelings in 24 cell tray

These spore grown staghorn ferns performed well.  Some died for reasons currently unknown.  Some survived but (again for reasons unknown) did not really grow much.  Others have grown large and strong.  I have high hopes these will survive my winter.

For beginners (such as myself), this method has been the most reliable so far.  I keep the trays under a humidity dome, like above.  This setup makes it simple to keep the humidity high, to keep the moisture at the right level, and basically keep everything going with little effort from me.

As the ferns mature, I will be able to open the vents to acclimatise them to lower humidity before eventually mounting them.

Over winter, even though they are under cover on my deck, it still can drop below freezing.  The humidity dome should provide some extra protection from the cold.  The dome should also help them get a little warmer on sunny days.  

This 24-cell propagation tray made moisture control much easier than my earlier setup (similar to this one). 

My staghorn ferns grown from spores

Some didn't survive, I don't know why

Some staghorn ferns survived and grew vigorously

Vigorous Platycerium superbum grown from spores in a 24-cell tray

Some spore grown staghorn ferns were larger

Other spore grown staghorn ferns were smaller

This setup worked well for growing staghorn ferns from spores 

Humidity dome helps staghorn fern sporelings 

Something unexpected happened in the 24 cell trays.  Spores that had not germinated over the past year have now started to sprout.

As shown in the photos, there are clusters of tiny prothallus emerging in several cells.  With any luck, these should grow and turn into tiny staghorn ferns.  Once they are larger, if they survive winter, I will be able to divide these and hopefully grow a few more staghorn ferns.

Given my success using the 24 cell trays in a humidity dome, this is the system I plan to use when dividing these extra spore grown staghorn ferns.

Staghorn ferns gametophytes and sporophytes

Some baby staghorn ferns are strong and vigorous

Growing staghorn ferns in wicking self watering pot

The staghorn ferns in the wicking pots all survived and have shown steady growth.  While they are not as large as those in the 24 cell trays, they have been much more consistent.

I keep these on a kitchen windowsill, where they receive stable light, more stable temperatures, and are easy to monitor.

For beginners, this has been one of the most reliable setups.  Watering is simple, humidity is easy to manage, and every plant I placed in these pots has survived so far.

I tend to use small wicking pots such as these.  They come with the pot, the base, and a wick.  I then used sticky tape and a clear container on top for humidity.  While the larger size pots would also work, I prefer the smaller size as they are great for several spore grown staghorn ferns, and I can also grow African violets and other plants in them. 

Every staghorn fern survived in a wicking pot

Wick watering pots make staghorn ferns from spore easy

Staghorn ferns in self watering pot

Staghorn fern sporelings prefer high humidity

If my staghorn ferns survive winter, I will think about trying to mount them in spring. 

Hopefully I will have some additional spore grown staghorns survive winter that I can divide and grow out. 

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to grow a staghorn fern from spores?

In my very limited experience, it took approximately 18 months to produce plants of this size from spores.  This timeframe could have been a little faster had I divided them earlier.

Do staghorn fern spores need high humidity?

Yes.  While mature staghorn ferns need far less humidity, spore grown ferns appear to have different requirements.  All of my successful methods relied on maintaining consistently high humidity.

What is the best container for growing staghorn fern spores?

The 24-cell propagation tray produced the largest plants, while self-watering wicking pots produced the highest survival rate.

Can old staghorn fern spores still germinate?

Apparently yes.  Some spores in my trays germinated more than a year after they were originally sown.

What I would do differently in my experiment growing staghorn ferns from spores

If I were starting again, I would use the 24-cell tray setup from the beginning.  While not every plant survived, many did, and they resulted in the largest and most vigorous staghorn ferns.  These 24 cell trays didn't take much space, and were able to fit a lot of plants. 

As a back up, I would also use some small self watering pots, as they were so simple to use, and resulted in no losses.  These look nice on the windowsill, but can only fit a small number of plants.

For beginners like myself who are attempting to grow staghorn ferns from spores outside their preferred climate,  I think a combination of the 24 cell tray setup and some small wicking pots gives the highest chances of success. 

After roughly 18 months growing Staghorn ferns (Platycerium superbum) from spores, I found that high humidity is a key factor.  The 24-cell propagation trays produced the fastest growth, while self-watering wicking pots produced the highest survival rates.  If I were starting again, I would use both methods and avoid the seedling flat approach entirely.

I plan to post another update in spring, to show what worked and what didn't over winter.  I'm learning a lot from my little experiment growing staghorn ferns from spores, and hope my posts help someone else attempting this. 

A Lifelong Fascination with Scorpions

One evening when I was a child, I had an unexpected encounter with a black rock scorpion began a fascination that has lasted for decades and eventually led to university research, keeping scorpions of my own, and a lifelong appreciation for these remarkable arachnids

The black rock scorpion (Urodacus manicatus) is the first scorpion I ever saw in real life, I was fascinated by it then and am still fascinated by scorpions now.  They are a small and relatively calm scorpion that is native to the east coast of Australia.  

Back then I had seen plenty of scorpions in encyclopedias and other books, and on documentaries, but nothing really prepared me for what it was like in real life.  These small creatures are amazing to watch, I still find it hard to stop watching them.

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Scorpions glow under UV light

The first scorpion I saw in real life 

I was watching TV one evening as a child and a scorpion ran across the living room floor.  I caught it and put it in a plastic ‘bug catcher’.  From there I kept it for a while, having no concept of how to look after it properly, marvelling at this amazing creature while it ate flies and other insects that I fed to it.  I eventually released this scorpion into the garden, which is a good thing because I can’t imagine it would have survived terribly long in a bug catcher. 

Now when I keep scorpions, even for a few days, I don't use 'bug catchers'.  I now use a small plastic aquarium because it is easy to clean, provides good ventilation, and makes observing the scorpion much easier.  These have a secure lid with ample ventilation.  

I also really like the look of the tiny aquariums that look like a lego block, they should work as they also have a secure lid.  I'll tell you why the lid is super important later in this post.  (Spoiler alert: I had a scorpion escape!)

Back then I was never confident to pick up the scorpion, and I am glad I didn’t because I could have hurt it.  

I was fascinated that they were arachnids, yet I counted ten legs.  It wasn’t until years later that I discovered that the pinchers at the front are not legs, but are pedipalps (pedipalps are almost like enlarged mouth parts).  If you don’t count the pinchers then the number of legs is eight, which makes me more comfortable as it fits in with my understanding of arachnids. 

Urodacus manicatus glows under UV light

My Scorpion Research at University

When I was a university student I got to see more of these delightful arachnids.  As part of "Behavioural and Physiological Ecology" I did an experiment involving scorpions.  A friend took me out to a hill where the scorpions lived, and we collected a few.  

For the experiment we got a light on a timer, put some scorpions in a tank with a thermogradient, attached a thermocouple to the back of each scorpion, and logged how changing light patterns altered their circadian rhythm.  

I forget how long that experiment ran, it was at least a few weeks, if not a few months.  I handled those scorpions every day and grew really attached to them.  At the end of the experiment we released them back on the hill where we collected them.  I was surprisingly sad to see them go. 

Black rock scorpion exploring the aquarium

Baby scorpions as pets

During that time I also kept two baby scorpions that I had also collected from the same spot.  These had nothing to do with the experiment, I thought they were cute and I kept them at home in a small container.  

They were both the same age, and much the same size, one was very shy and the other far more outgoing and interactive.  I used to catch small insects to feed them.  I tried to always keep some tiny insect in there for them to eat, but they couldn’t always find it.  I knew if they were hungry because they would walk around with their tail twitching slightly, so I would catch the insect with tweezers and hold it until a scorpion grabbed it.  I use long feeding tweezers for handling insects safely, I find feeding tweezers to be ideal for feeding scorpions.

One night I left the lid off the container the baby scorpions lived in, and the outgoing one escaped and was never seen by me again.  I missed it, but I still had one.  The one that didn’t escape eventually moulted, which was utterly fascinating.  They get very hungry for a while before moulting, and then stop eating completely.  To shed they squeeze their entire body out of a tiny hole near the mouth.  They have tiny wrists and big pinchers, so to squeeze out of here they are very soft.  

After moulting they need time to harden so must be left alone.  After a few days their exoskeleton hardens and they are ready to eat again. 

I had a bottle cap of water in the container and one day my tiny scorpion fell in and I had to rescue it.  I didn’t know how to pick it up without being stung, I panicked and put my finger in and it grabbed hold of me.  I then carefully lifted it out and let it walk off my finger back into the container.  It didn't sting me.  

After that I kept a damp cotton wool ball in there for water because I was scared it would fall in again when I wasn’t there to save it.  I can’t remember exactly what eventually happened to this little one, it was a lot of years ago, I have a feeling that I released it where I got it from before moving house.  

One really cool thing about all scorpions is that they fluoresce brightly under ultraviolet light.  The exact mechanism behind fluorescing in ultraviolet light is still under debate.  Their exoskeleton contains hyaline, which makes the exoskeleton strong, and is thought to be the part that glows under UV light.  The babies and ones that recently shed their skin don’t really glow, but once the skin hardens they all glow.  Even more remarkably, some fossilised scorpions even fluoresce under ultraviolet light.

I still keep its first exoskeleton safely in a little jar in my drawer.  Even though it has been over twenty years, the exoskeleton still fluoresces under ultraviolet light. 

Why do scorpions glow under UV light? 

Scientists are still debating the exact purpose and mechanism behind this, but compounds in the exoskeleton fluoresce brightly when exposed to ultraviolet light.  This makes scorpions easy to find at night using a cheap UV torch.

I like to use a small UV torch to make scorpions glow, these ultraviolet torches are ideal.  Going out on a warm night with an ultraviolet torch is one of the easiest ways to find scorpions.

While I rarely put the UV torch on my scorpions, some people have a UV torch to use when displaying them.  Prolonged exposure to ultraviolet light reduces fluorescence over time, although the exact reasons behind this are not fully understood.  They will not glow as bright over time if you keep the light on them too much, but every once in a while does not appear to have any adverse effects.  

Scorpions aren't the only natural thing that glows under UV light.  I wrote an earlier post on glowing lichen, while my pictures don't do it justice, some of these lichens glowed bright orange.  I also wrote another post on using these same ultraviolet torches to make various things such as honey, spider webs, and corn stalks glow.  

Baby scorpion exoskeleton under normal light

The same baby scorpion exoskeleton under UV light

Black Rock Scorpion Conservation and Breeding

My fascination with these creatures eventually led me to consider keeping and even breeding them.  I have read that it takes about two or three years for a baby black rock scorpion to reach maturity, which is a long time.  From there it can be difficult getting them to mate and not harm each other.  

Scorpions give birth to live young, after mating the gestation period is about sixteen months, which is a very long time for such a tiny animal.  Sometimes the mother will eat the babies, other times she won’t, sometimes the babies will eat each other, and other times they don’t.  

All of this means it takes several years from a baby scorpion birth until it has a baby scorpion of its own.  This also means most scorpions for sale have been taken from the wild as breeding them sustainably takes a long time and a lot of effort. 

I am told that the black rock scorpion can live up to a dozen years, with eight to ten being pretty common in the wild.  Given how long they live, and how long they take to reach maturity, and how long their gestation is, and that collectors sometimes take every single mature specimen they can find in an area, these scorpions really do need to be raised sustainably rather than taken from the wild. 

I still find black rock scorpions fascinating

A Lifelong Fascination

It has been decades since that first black rock scorpion crossed the living room floor, yet I still stop to watch them whenever I get the chance.  What began as childhood curiosity grew into scientific study and a deep respect for these remarkable arachnids.  Every time I see one scurrying after some prey insect, or glowing under ultraviolet light, I am reminded of the fascination that started all those years ago.

Despite their fearsome reputation, black rock scorpions are calm, fascinating creatures that have taught me a great deal about observing and appreciating the natural world.  Even today, I still keep that tiny exoskeleton in a jar, a small reminder of an animal that sparked a fascination which never really faded.

At some stage I may sell scorpion kits, and possibly captive bred individuals.  If I do, they will appear on my for sale page.  Live animals would likely be offered for local pickup only rather than postage. 

Making Milk Kefir at Home: Simple Instructions From Years of Experience

I have been making milk kefir from traditional heirloom grains since 2010. Over that time I've moved house several times and the kefir grains have come with me.  In my experience, keeping milk kefir going long term is remarkably simple, the biggest challenge is paying for the milk!

To avoid any doubt, milk kefir 'grains' are not grains or seeds of any kind.  Other than the common name of grains they are not similar in any way.  Milk kefir grains are complex and continuously changing mixture of colonies of beneficial bacteria and yeasts growing in a matrix of kefiran that is bobbing around in milk. 

I drink milk kefir and make my breakfast with it, my kids drink milk kefir daily, over that time I have never had any issues with safety, over the years no one has ever fallen ill from consuming my home made milk kefir.  

My milk kefir grains in strainer

What ratio of kefir grains to milk should I use 

There seems to be a lot of confusion on the internet over how much milk kefir grains to use.  

If you're completely new to milk kefir, you may want to read my beginner's guide to milk kefir grains first, where I explain what kefir grains are and how to make kefir at home.

The thing to remember when making kefir is it is not an exact science, the temperature it is kept at is not overly important, and the ratios used don't matter hugely.  As long as you don't use too few grains for the amount of milk, it will still work.

Milk kefir originally comes from nomadic tribes in the Caucasus mountains in Russia.  These people weren't measuring anything precisely, they had kefir grains in a skin bag with mare's milk or yak milk, and they kept kefir going for generations.  A lot of effort was made by the government at the time to obtain the kefir grains, which is a fascinating story.  

Most people use between a quarter of a teaspoon of grains per cup of milk, up to a quarter of a cup of grains (16 teaspoons) per cup of milk.  

I tend to use far more grains than this for no other reason than I have them.  It ferments faster and gets a little more sour.    

If using too few grains for the amount of milk, fermentation takes longer, and you may run into issues with contaminants taking over.  For this reason I suggest not going lower than one teaspoon of kefir grains per cup of milk.  If using more grains, kefir ferments faster.  

I drink kefir plain, I soak raw buckwheat in kefir overnight to consume raw the next morning, sometimes (often around Easter) I make tvorog using kefir.  I like kefir, and some of my kids like it too.

It seems weird that you can leave milk on the bench for days and not have any problems, the living cultures generally create conditions that discourage many unwanted microorganisms from multiplying.  As mentioned, I generally use more grains than most people, this makes it highly unlikely anything undesirable can grow in there.  

Milk kefir I cover with strainer but a cloth also works

Simple milk kefir recipe 

(Note: this can be scaled up as needed)

1) Add anywhere between 1 teaspoon to 1/4 cup of kefir grains to a large glass jar (not metal).

2) Add about a cup of milk to the jar. 

3) Do not put on a lid.  Cover the jar with a cloth or something to keep out dust/insects but lets in the air.  I use a plastic strainer.

4) Leave the jar on the bench out of direct sunlight.  Do not put in the fridge.  

5) Leave for about a day (12-48 hours) to ferment.  The longer it ferments the more sour it becomes.

6) Stir briskly, then strain out the grains.  The strained liquid is your kefir to drink, this can be stored in the fridge for a few days until ready to drink.  

7) Put the grains and a few spoonfuls of liquid kefir in a glass jar.  Repeat from step 2.

One teaspoon of my milk kefir grains

If the kefir separates into curds and whey, that is normal, and it's still fine to drink.  Once you stir (step 6) it all gets mixed together.  

If you go away on holiday you can leave your kefir grains in some milk in the fridge, I recommend putting a lid on the jar while in the fridge.  The grains can survive in the fridge like this for a few weeks.  Being in fridge makes kefir angry, the next few batches will be sour.  

Your grains will multiply.  You can eat them, they are probably better for you than the kefir liquid.  The more kefir grains you add to milk, the faster it ferments.  

The speed of fermentation varies depending on the weather, summer ferments faster than winter.  You can adjust the amount of grains used if you want it more consistent, or you can embrace the seasonal changes.  Either option is fine.  You don't need to keep kefir heated, it was made by nomads living in yurts for generations, they certainly didn't heat their kefir.

Sometimes kefir is more yeasty and the kefir gets lightly bubbly.  Other times there is less yeast activity and the kefir is flat.  Sometimes your grains will be large, other times the grains will be small.  This will all change over time, it is all normal.

Milk kefir ready to be strained

New to kefir? See my beginner's guide to milk kefir grains for step-by-step instructions and troubleshooting tips.

Common Questions

How do I know when milk kefir is ready?

Fresh kefir usually thickens slightly and develops a pleasant tangy smell.  Small pockets of whey may appear around the edges of the jar.  Kefir is ready whenever it tastes right to you. Some people prefer a mild kefir after 12 hours, while others prefer a more sour kefir fermented for longer.  The longer it ferments, the more sour it becomes.

Why did my kefir separate?  Is this a problem?

This is normal, it means your kefir has fermented a bit more than normal.  This happens in warmer weather, or when using more grains.  Just stir before straining.

I have too many kefir grains, can I eat the grains?

Yes, kefir grains are edible.  Some people eat them directly or blend them into smoothies.  Kefir grains can also be fed to poultry.  

Why does fermentation speed change?

Temperature, grain quantity, and milk type all affect fermentation speed.  Don't expect it to be uniform, it will change with the seasons.

Milk kefir grains in a jar

Where to get heirloom milk kefir grains

If you'd like to start making your own kefir, you'll need a healthy culture of milk kefir grains.  

My kefir grains have been made for a few years using A2 milk.  My grains will work in any cow, sheep milk, goat milk, or milk from any other mammal - the taste will change depending on what type of milk you use.  I've never tried them in any plant based milk.   

I sell a decent amount of kefir grains, many places only sell 1 teaspoon

My kefir grains usually multiply faster than I can use them, so I occasionally have extras available on my my for sale page along with other fermenting cultures, perennial vegetable plants, culinary herbs, and seeds I offer.  

Most sellers provide around a teaspoon of grains.  I sell closer to a quarter cup of grains, which gives beginners a larger, more active culture and makes it easier to start producing kefir immediately and helps ensure beginners are likely to succeed. 

How to Grow Milk Kefir Grains at Home (Beginner Guide)

What are milk kefir grains

Milk kefir grains are a living culture used to ferment milk into a tangy, drinkable yoghurt-like product. Milk kefir grains are soft, white, irregular clusters that resemble tiny cauliflower florets or small clouds (or, as my youngest son says, they look like tiny brains).  They are not related to cereal grains despite the name.

They grow and reproduce over time when kept in the right conditions and can be maintained indefinitely with regular feeding.  Being a mesophilic culture, they can ferment at room temperature and do not require heaters or incubators. 

Milk kefir grains are one of the easiest live cultures to maintain at home once you understand how to grow and feed them correctly.  I have been keeping kefir grains in my home kitchen for a number of years, and they are one of the more reliable and low-maintenance live cultures once established.  

Fermenting kefir at home using heirloom grains is generally far cheaper than buying it from a supermarket. Once established and properly maintained, kefir grains can be kept going for many years and regularly propagated.

Kefir made from live grains typically contains a wider diversity of microorganisms than most commercially produced kefir products or powdered starter cultures.

The following methods are based on my own long-term use of kefir grains in a home kitchen setting.

Milk kefir grains after straining, ready for a fresh batch of milk

What you need

To get started making kefir at home, you only need a few basic items:

• Milk kefir grains 
• Fresh milk (cow, goat, or sheep milk all work)
• A glass jar
• A breathable cover (cloth or loose lid)
• A plastic or wooden spoon
• A strainer

A note on equipment

Some of the equipment mentioned in this post may include Amazon affiliate links. If you purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. 

Glass jars (fermentation base)

Many people (including myself) simply reuse glass jars that originally contained pickles or jam.   

Fermentation jars designed for home culturing can make the process more consistent, especially if you plan to keep kefir long term.  Fermentation jars also tend to look a lot nicer than using an old pickle jar like I do, and avoid any risk of residual flavours from previous contents.

A standard wide-mouth jar is usually sufficient, but thicker glass fermentation jars are more durable if you plan to keep kefir going over the long term.

• Ball Wide Mouth Mason Jars (16oz or 32oz) - commonly used for kefir and other ferments
• Kilner Glass Fermentation Jars - heavier duty option with a more traditional fermentation design

Straining equipment

Straining is the step that most people underestimate. A good strainer makes a noticeable difference.

• OXO Good Grips Stainless Steel Fine Mesh Strainer (3-inch or 4-inch) - very commonly used for kefir and other small-batch fermenting
• Bellemain Stainless Steel Fine Mesh Strainer Set - useful if you want multiple sizes for different batches
• Plastic fine mesh strainer set - useful as it has multiple sizes and good if you do not want to use metal around your kefir grains

Plastic strainers work, but stainless steel tends to last far longer and can be easier to clean.

Optional starter kits (everything-in-one setup)

If you prefer starting with a complete set rather than collecting items individually:

• Kilner Glass Kefir Jar Set - purpose built system with strainer lid and beechwood measuring spoon
• Kefir Starter Kit (various Amazon listings) - usually includes fermentation jar, strainer, sometimes grains

These are not essential, but they can make the first few batches more consistent and provide confidence if you are new to fermentation.  

Important: when starting out, do not use 'starter culture' or any dried kefir culture, these don't work the same.  When starting out making kefir at home, you need to use kefir grains.  These are the easiest for a beginner to use, with the lowest chance of anything going wrong (which is important when dealing with food), they can live indefinitely, and usually contain significantly greater diversity of probiotic and other beneficial microorganisms and generally boast a higher number of colony forming units. 

Grain quantity affects how quickly kefir ferments.  For a more detailed discussion, see my article on how much milk kefir grain to use.

Milk kefir grains, most use between 1 teaspoon to 1/4 cup per cup of milk

Basic method - how to make milk kefir at home

1. Place the kefir grains into a clean glass jar
2. Add fresh milk (roughly 1 cup of milk per 1–16 teaspoons of grains)
3. Cover the jar with a cloth or loose lid
4. Leave at room temperature (around 18–25°C is ideal)
5. Allow to ferment for 24–48 hours depending on temperature
6. When the milk thickens and smells slightly sour, it is ready
7. Strain the grains out and transfer them to fresh milk

The finished kefir can be consumed immediately or stored in the fridge.  

Straining and handling the grains

One of the key steps in maintaining kefir is separating the grains from the finished liquid.

A fine strainer makes this much easier.  I prefer a mesh strainer that is not too fine, otherwise the thicker kefir can block it.

Useful tools for this step:

• Fine mesh strainer (plastic or stainless steel)
• Bowl or jug for catching the finished kefir
• Funnel (optional, for bottling)

A simple strainer and jar setup is usually enough, but some people prefer dedicated fermentation kits that include everything in one set.

Ongoing care

I started making milk kefir using grains in 2010.  I can confidently say that I find milk kefir simple to keep going long term, and they are one of the lowest maintenance ferments I can think of.  Kefir grains do not require much maintenance, but they do best with regular feeding.

If left too long without fresh milk, they will slow down or become inactive. In normal use, they will continue to grow and divide gradually.

If you are not using them for a short period, they can be stored in the fridge in fresh milk for around 1–2 weeks.

Temperature and seasonal effects

Fermentation speed changes with temperature:

• Warm weather: 12-24 hours
• Cool weather: 24-48 hours or longer

In cooler months, I generally leave them slightly longer before straining.

Optional upgrades once you are established

Once kefir becomes part of a routine, a few extra tools can make the process easier:

• Glass bottles for secondary fermentation (slightly fizzy kefir)
• Dedicated fermentation jars with breathable lids
• Thermometer strips for consistent jar temperature monitoring - I've never used thermometer strips, nor could I change the temperature if it was wrong, but lots of beginners seem to like them

These are not necessary, but they help if you want more consistent results.

Signs your kefir is healthy

Healthy grains will usually:

• Increase slowly in size over time
• Produce consistent thickening of milk
• Develop a clean, slightly sour smell after fermentation

If the culture weakens, it is usually due to long gaps between feeds or extreme temperatures.

Kefir Grain Reproduction and Sharing

Kefir grains naturally multiply when kept in good condition. Once established, they can be split and shared or stored as backup cultures.

This makes kefir grains a long-term renewable culture when properly maintained. 

Homemade milk kefir fermenting from live kefir grains

Common mistakes when starting out

• Leaving grains too long without feeding
• Putting grains in the fridge too often (cold can make some strains go dormant)
• Using airtight lids during primary fermentation
• Overheating in summer months

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use UHT or long-life milk or low fat milk to make kefir?

Yes, you can use UHT milk or low fat, but the results can be slightly different.  Fresh milk generally produces thicker, more consistent kefir.  UHT milk tends to work, but the grains may take a few batches to adjust if they are used to fresh milk.  Low fat milk usually works, but will taste a little different.

How long do milk kefir grains last?

Milk kefir grains can last indefinitely if they are cared for properly.  As long as they are regularly fed with fresh milk and kept at reasonable temperatures, they will continue to grow and reproduce over time. 

Why is my kefir separating into layers?

This is usually normal.  Separation into a thicker curd layer and a watery whey layer generally means the kefir has fermented for too long or the temperature is a bit warm.  It is still safe to use.  You can simply stir it back together or shorten the fermentation time next batch.

Can kefir grains die?

Yes, but it usually takes extreme conditions as kefir grains are quite resilient and have been used for a long time in traditional fermentation.  Kefir grains can weaken or die if they are:

• left without fresh milk for too long
• exposed to very high temperatures
• repeatedly contaminated or neglected over time

In most normal home situations, they are quite resilient and can recover even after periods of stress.

How much milk should I use per batch?

A common starting ratio is about 1 cup of milk per 1 to 16 teaspoons of kefir grains.  I tend to use far more grains than this.  You can adjust this depending on how fast you want fermentation to occur.  More grains = faster fermentation.

Can I use metal utensils with kefir grains?

Yes, brief contact with stainless steel is generally fine.  Avoid fermenting kefir in reactive metals (like aluminium or copper), as acidity can affect them. Stainless steel is generally safe for short contact (such as straining) but not ideal for long fermentation.  Most modern kefir keepers use stainless steel strainers without issues.  However, many people still prefer plastic or wooden utensils for routine handling.

Why do my kefir grains look smaller or not growing?

Grain size can fluctuate seasonally depending on milk type, temperature, and feeding schedule.  Growth is usually slow and not always obvious day to day.  If fermentation is still happening normally, the grains are usually fine.

How do I store kefir grains if I need a break?

If you are not making kefir for a short period, you can store the grains in fresh milk in the fridge for a week or two.  For longer breaks, the milk should be changed occasionally to keep them healthy.  If they are in the fridge for a long time, it may take them a while to wake up and work normally again.

Milk kefir grains - look like little clouds

Is homemade milk kefir stronger than store-bought kefir?

Homemade kefir made from live grains typically contains a wider range of microorganisms compared to most commercial kefir or powdered starter cultures.  The strength and flavour also vary depending on fermentation time and conditions, which you have greater control over when fermenting at home.

Notes from growing milk kefir grains at home

In my experience, milk kefir grains are one of the most reliable live cultures for home use.  They tend to adapt well over time and can recover even after periods of neglect, provided they are returned to fresh milk.

Both the temperature, and the amount of grain used affects how quickly kefir ferments.  For a more detailed discussion, see my article on how much milk kefir grain I tend to use. 

Kefir Grain Availability

Milk kefir grains are available from time to time as part of my live cultures listing, usually in small starter portions suitable for home propagation.  Many suppliers sell very small starter portions, often around 1 teaspoon.  While these can work, I find beginners usually have more success starting with a larger quantity of healthy grains.  I include a decent amount of grains, closer to 1/4 cup of grains (or 16 teaspoons) that way the beginner is far more likely to succeed.

Milk kefir grains are one of the simplest and most forgiving fermentation cultures for beginners. With only milk, a jar, and a small quantity of healthy grains, you can maintain a continuous supply of homemade kefir for years.  Once established, the grains multiply naturally, making kefir one of the most economical fermented foods you can produce at home.

Perennial Vegetables, Plants, Seeds & Kefir for Sale – June 2026

For Sale: June 2026

I grow a range of perennial vegetables, edible plants, herbs, fruiting plants, aquatic plants, and a small selection of ornamental plants from my home garden in Australia.  Everything is grown organically by me and in small seasonal batches.  Most plants are available in small quantities only and some items may sell out during the month.

Availability changes through the year depending on growth cycles and dormancy.

If something is not listed below, it is not currently available this month.  

Pink flesh potatoes

How to Order

To order, please email me with the items you would like:

damien_beaumont [at] yahoo [dot] com [dot] au

(Replace [at] with @ and [dot] with .) 

I will reply with total cost and payment details.  Postage is sent on Mondays after payment clears.

Postage

• $12 standard plant and item postage
• $3.50 seeds only

For Sale: June 2026 

This month’s list includes perennial vegetable plants, edible perennial herbs, berry plants, heirloom and open-pollinated seeds, aquatic plants, and live cultures, all organically grown in my home garden in the Canberra region of Australia.

Bare Rooted Perennial Plants – $5 each (unless stated)

Perennial Onions & Alliums

• Babington leek
• Everlasting onions
• Tree onions

Other Perennial Vegetables

• Asparagus (Purple)
• Asparagus (Precoce D’Argenteuil)
• Chinese Water Chestnut ($3 per small corm)
• Duck potato ($3 per small tuber)
• Jerusalem Artichoke ($3 per tuber)
• Pink Flesh Potato (sold out for now)

Culinary Edible Herbs

• Brahmi/water hyssop  
• Jekka's thyme
• Lavender mint 
• Lemongrass
• Lime balm
• Peppermint
• Pineapple sage
• Rosemary - blue flowering
• Sweet violet
• Vietnamese coriander 
• Vietnamese fish mint (currently dormant for winter and will reshoot in spring)
• Variegated water parsley
• Green water parsley (more vigorous stronger tasting version of the variegated form)  
• Watercress 
• Willow herb

Berries & Fruit

• Pineberry strawberry
• Hokowase strawberry
• Virginian strawberry
• Attila alpine strawberry
• Elderberry
• Jostaberry
• Pomegranate 

Aquatic Plants

• Azolla – $3 per scoop
• Duckweed – $3 per scoop

Heirloom and Open-Pollinated Seeds – $4 per packet (unless stated)

A selection of heirloom, open-pollinated, and home-bred vegetable seeds suitable for seasonal growing in Australian conditions, including rare and unusual vegetable seeds.

• Immali corn (my own sweet corn breeding project producing purple/pink and white kernels)
• Purple hot mustard
• Purple asparagus
• Tomato Tommy Toe
• Tomato Reisetomate 
• Tomato Snow White
  
• Tomato Speckled Roman
• Senposai
• Hon Tsai Tai / Choy Sum (purple stem) 
• Black raspberry seed (not plants) (note: needs minimum of 3 months cold wet stratification to germinate)
• Muscari grape hyacinth - packet of seeds (not bulbs) 

Living Ancient Cultures - Kefir & Ferments - $5 

• Milk kefir grains – approx 1/4 cup (significantly larger quantity than most starter packs)
• Kombucha SCOBY 

Ornamentals/Succulents/Houseplants

• Aloe vera - small plants $5 
• String of pearls succulent - plant $5, cuttings $2
• String of beans succulent (from Coober Pedy) - plant $5, cuttings  $2
• Red jelly bean succulent  $5, cuttings $2
• Succulent - Plectranthus (unnamed variety) $5 
  
• African violet leaf cutting – 'New Hampshire' $3
• African violet leaf cutting – double light blue (unnamed variety) $3

Other Items

• Candle mould “skep” - $10
• Candle mould “owl” - $10

African Violet New Hampshire

For photographs, botanical names, growing notes, and detailed descriptions of these plants, see my older catalogue page.  

Please note my catalogue page has a lot of things not currently in season/not currently for sale.  The only things I have for sale this month are listed in this blog post above.