Raspberries: yellow red and black

I do a bit of vegetable breeding, I also breed other plants with various different aims.  

A number of years ago I bred a new variety of red raspberry.  I acknowledge that I am biased - I like this raspberry (Rubus idaeus).  It is genetically thornless, very vigorous, incredibly productive, produces dozens of flowers per cluster, fruits multiple times per year, and tastes nicely sweet.  This red raspberry performs better in my garden than any other raspberry variety I have grown.  I am told it does not grow as well in subtropical gardens.  

I eventually tracked down a yellow raspberry (Rubus idaeus) and did a little breeding with this too.  This one has thorns (prickles).  It only crops once or twice per year and has flowers in clusters of about half a dozen.  The berries are pretty, they smell divine, and it tastes very sweet.  What it lacks of the typical raspberry flavour it makes up for in delicate floral notes.  I need to do more breeding with this to create a thornless primocane version.  

After some years I got a black raspberry (Rubus occidentalis).  This is a different species of raspberry to the red (or yellow) raspberry.  It is not a blackberry.  It is not a loganberry.  It is not a youngberry.  It is not a mulberry.  It is not any other kind of berry, this is a black raspberry.  

It drives me crazy how difficult people seem to find the concept of a black raspberry in Australia, but I digress.  

Yellow, red, and black raspberries

My black raspberries have a rich complex taste and aroma.  It is not as sweet as my other raspberries (neither are store bought raspberries), but it is not what I would consider to be sour.  They have a nice taste, it does not taste the same as a red or yellow raspberry, and it is not meant to be the same as them.  It does taste a bit like a raspberry, but also very different.  Black raspberry tastes nothing like a blackberry, and tastes nothing like a mulberry.  There really isn't anything I have eaten that they taste similar to.

I am bad at describing taste, my description above really doesn't describe it well.  The internet says black raspberries are "tangy, richly flavored, mildly sweet, cooling, and high in antioxidants".  I am not sure that description is all that much better than mine.  

Yellow raspberry, red raspberry, and black raspberry 

You will probably notice that the berries are a bit smaller than red or yellow raspberries.  My comparison photos are all typical sized berries.  Some berries from each plant are larger or smaller, but the ones in the photo give you a decent idea of what is normal.  While black raspberries are smaller, they are still a decent size.  While I would prefer them to be larger, I don't find them to be too small. 

These plants are not what I would consider to have low productivity, and they do not blow me away with the size of the crops.  They usually produce clusters of about half a dozen flowers.  This is comparable to most raspberry varieties including my yellow raspberries, but it feels like nothing compared to my red raspberry which produces dozens per cluster.  

In my garden my red raspberries have the longest picking season.  They start ripening first, finish last, and produce the most berries over the season.  My yellow raspberries start to ripen after the red raspberries have been cropping for a while.  My black raspberries start to crop once I have been picking both the red and yellow for a few weeks.  

Black raspberries grow well in my garden, but they need different management to red raspberries.  They have curved thorns, similar to a blackberry or a rose, and the thorns seems to grab at you when you walk past the plants.  This is worth noting if you want to grow one.

I grow mine in pots, they appear to do well in pots.  I have never had red or yellow raspberries perform well in pots for me.  

Black raspberries grow differently to red raspberries.  Red raspberries grow roots underground and send up canes from the tips of these roots, black raspberries do not do this.  Black raspberries will set down roots from the tips of the canes if they touch the soil.  

My black raspberries are a floricane variety, meaning that they flower and fruit on the previous season's growth.  This is good to know as it dictates the way you prune them.  

I don't prune mine at all and at this stage, but if I was pruning them I would need to ensure large canes from the previous year were intact so they could flower.  I imagine that tip pruning would encourage them to branch and be more fruitful.  I know that tip pruning my red or yellow raspberries increases the crop significantly as they produce 5 to 10 times as many flowers.

Much like my other raspberries, the black raspberries do not ripen all at once.  Each cluster will have some ripe berries and some unripe berries at the same time.  I pick them once ripe, and go back each day or so to pick more over the season.  A long picking season is great for home gardeners, but dreadful for commercial growers who have to employ pickers.  

It is simple to tell when the berries are ripe because they are black.  The berries start out green, turn red, and get darker until they ripen a black colour.  Ripe berries will pull away from the stem easily, if they resist pulling from the stem they usually aren't ripe enough.  Raspberries have a hollow core once picked, blackberries and youngberries etc do not have this hollow core.  

So far birds seem uninterested in my raspberries of any colour.  They also don't seem overly interested in my strawberries.  Perhaps I am just lucky, or perhaps the birds are too busy stealing all of my plums and apples to worry about berries.

My black raspberries seem to have more seeds than red raspberries.  Perhaps it isn't more seeds, perhaps they are larger seeds.  I am not sure, all I know is they are more noticeable.  I don't find the seeds very annoying, but they do get stuck between my teeth more often than the seeds from my red raspberries.

Black raspberries are simple to grow from seed, but it takes a long time before you get the first crop.  I am growing out some seed at the moment, and once berry season is over I plan to root some of the can tips.  

If I have a few extra plants I plan to offer them on my for sale page.  I don't have any spare plants at the moment but I am expecting to have a few to offer when they are dormant in winter or early spring.  

Raspberry comparison

Flexi tub pond for vegetables

For over ten years I have been growing water chestnuts in a bucket.  It is simple, it is cheap, and it works well enough.  For the past seven or so years I also grew some duck potatoes and Chinese water chestnuts in a large flexitub with some soil in it.  

From this I got much the same result as I get from growing them in a bucket, but a yield of larger corms.  Strangely, I seemed to get a similar number of corms, but the flexi tub seemed to grow a lot more larger ones that were of edible size.  

Unlimited water, unlimited air, no weeds, aquatic veggies grow fast

As with the buckets, these tubs eventually degrade and fall apart from the sun.  Below are photos of a flexitub that I have been using as a pond, it has been there about seven years.  

The photos below were taken at the beginning of spring when the duck potatoes were starting to break dormancy.  You can see in the photo above that the duck potatoes get a lot taller than this and largely shade the water.  

Duck potatoes in flexitub

Being in a larger pond meant there was more room for soil, and the temperature doesn't fluctuate as much as the buckets.  I allowed azolla and duckweed to grow in there, eventually they cover the surface of the water and start to mulch down.  

Small birds come to drink from my flexitub, and dragonflies and water beetles seem to breed in there.  Over summer when the surface is covered in azolla, honey bees come and drink from my pond. 

The birds seem to prefer the larger tubs to the buckets, I like being able to provide some water for them over summer.  

Leaf litter breaks down to fertilise the plants

You may also notice that these larger tubs catch a fair bit of leaf litter and lots of flower petals, all of this breaks down to fertilise the plants. As the plants get taller they almost act as a net, catching leaves from the air, and depositing them in my tiny pond.  

The photos below were taken towards the end of spring.  You will notice a lot of growth happened over this time.  These plants have the best of all worlds.  They have unlimited access to fresh water, unlimited access to air, plenty of direct sunlight, lots of nutrients in the mud, never any weeds, and a healthy little ecosystem which captures and cycles nutrients.  

It doesn't take them long to grow large

Over winter I will add leaf litter from when I clear out the house gutters, and this combined with whatever else that lands in the water provides all the fertiliser needed for the growing season.

When it is windy the leaves capture anything that is blowing around and directs it into the tub.  This breaks down and feeds the plants.  Various insects such as dragon flies and water beetles breed in the water.  These insects eventually die in the water, and their little bodies eventually break down and feed the plants.  

Some insects that breed in there would fly away, taking nutrients with them, but this little tub seems to accumulate nutrients overall.  

Sadly these flexi tubs don't last forever.  You can see the one above is starting to degrade, it may only have another year or two left in it.  

I have had it in full sun, getting hit by wind, hail, heavy frost, and storms for over seven years.  While I would prefer it lasted a lot longer, seven or so years isn't too bad. 

These flexi tubs are great little ponds for emergent aquatic vegetables such as Chinese water chestnuts, duck potatoes, water celery, brahmi, and water cress.  If you were growing something like Lotus or Water Lillies they may do ok, but may benefit from a larger tub.  

Chinese water chestnuts 

Duck potatoes 

I have a for sale page where I sell water chestnuts and duck potatoes and other perennial vegetables in Australia.  I update the page regularly, and it has my email address that you can use to contact me.   

Water Celery Variegated vs Green

I have been growing water celery (Oenanthe javanica) for a long time.  I have had it since at least  2015, I possibly even grew it for a year or two prior to that. 

I grow the colourful and attractive variegated flamingo or rainbow form.  It has a bunch of common names including: water parsley, Java waterdropwort, Japanese parsley, Chinese celery, rainbow water parsley.  This is a very vigorous, and very simple to grow perennial vegetable.  

Interestingly, the native range of this perennial vegetable is a whole bunch of countries, including Australia.  

Variegated water celery

Water celery has amazingly strong growth, while it seems to prefer having its roots submerged and its leaves out of the water it can grow in deeper water as long as its leaves can reach the surface, or it can grow on 'dry land' like a regular vegetable.  

It handles hard frosts well, and tolerates extremely high temperatures if it has water.  Full sun and part shade both seem to work well for this plant.  

When water celery is grown in floating raft aquaponics it can be used to effectively filter the water.  I trialed it with my goldfish barrelponics and it worked well.  It can be used to filter grey water, it is good at removing pollutants due to its fast growth rate.  

Above all this, water celery is edible.  It tastes like mild celery, and loses much of the taste when cooked for too long so is best added towards the end of cooking.  

I am not a huge fan of celery, so tend not to eat much of it myself.  Chickens and guinea pigs and other animals enjoy eating water celery raw.  The times of year that we don't have much grass I feed handfulls of water celery to our animals.  While water celery is great in the compost, I prefer to feed it to the chickens as I think that is a better use.

For years I have grown the rather pretty variegated form, and it is a very vigorous plant.  I have heard when planted next to a pond it tends to take over somewhat.  

I am told that the pure green form is far more vigorous.  I originally wanted the green variety, but couldn't find it.  A few places sell this green one online, but I can't justify the price when I already grow the variegated one.  I had hoped mine would throw a non-variegated runner, but that hasn't happened yet.    

Variegated water celery growing out of its pot

My plants sometimes flower.  They start to set seed, then each year something happens and I don't get around to collecting any seed to grow.  Sometimes it gets too dry and the flowers are scorched, or something eats off the flower heads, or I just forget about it and have no idea what happened to the seed.

The last time my plants flowered, I forgot about them and they were largely covered by fallen leaves.  Recently I was clearing up that part of the garden and noticed a plant.  It looks like a tiny water celery seedling.  It appears to be entirely green.  I was lucky that I even saw this little one.  

This little plant is most likely seed grown.  

Dark green water celery

I carefully dug up this little plant, put it in a small pot, and moved it somewhere safe.  Since then it has grown very quickly and started to divide.  Hopefully it is even more vigorous than its variegated parent.  

The parent has pink stems, with light green leaves edged in white and pink or purple.  The colouration becomes more vivid in cooler weather.  It really is rather pretty.  

This little plant is darker green, with dark green stems and dark green leaves.  Presumably this darker green is from increased chlorophyll.  Extra chlorophyll means it should have a massive advantage when it comes to growth rate, and it should be more vigorous than its variegated parent.  

I can hardly wait to see what it can do.  

Non-variegated water celery

From here I hope this plant grows well, and in time I hope to divide it.  Given how much it has grown in a week I don't think this will take very long.  I haven't tasted this plant yet, hopefully it tastes a little stronger than the variegated one.  

I will try to post an update on this plant in a few months once it has had some time to do some growing and I have had a chance to eat a little of it.  

Green water celery

When I have divided this plant enough I would like to try some as the filter for my goldfish barrelponics as I think it may perform well there.  Vietnamese coriander grows exceptionally well in my barrelponics over the warmer months, but stops growing over winter.  

I have a feeling the green water celery may grow well over the cooler months, and a combination of Vietnamese coriander and green water celery should be an excellent water filter.  

Green Water Celery

Green water celery has grown and divided

I currently sell bare rooted plants of the variegated rainbow water celery, I have some perennial vegetables for sale and other interesting plants on my for sale page.  At some stage in the future I may also have some of the green version for sale.  I post perennial vegetable throughout Australia, but not to WA or Tasmania at this stage.  

Pineberry strawberry

A few years ago we bought some Pineberry strawberry plants.  Pineberry are an old variety of strawberry that are a little different.  

Pineberry is a very old variety that is said to be a hybrid of two species of strawberry, the South American Fragaria chiloensis, and the North American Fragaria virginiana but they may also have other species in their heritage and probably some back crossing.  

Pineberry strawberries

Pineberry are not F1 hybrids, they are not GMO, they are an older variety that was produced by normal cross pollination.  While I say they are not F1 hybrids, this does not mean their seedlings will be anything like the seed parent.  Pineberry are hybrids of hybrids, their seeds produce a wide range of diverse traits.

Most fruit are interspecific hybrids of several species, and all garden strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa) are a hybrid of several species.  This means the fact that Pineberry are a combination of various strawberry species is of no concern.  

Pineberry strawberries

I am unsure of pineberry's ploidy level.  Given that I don't plan to do any breeding work with pineberries, this does not pose an issue.  The seeds are viable, if planted they will not produce a pineberry, they will turn out to be a wide variety of different strawberries.  

It would be simple to breed a new variety of strawberry using pineberry as the seed parent.  Bag the flowers, transfer pollen from a different variety that has traits you like (such as larger fruit, day neutral, etc), and grow out the seeds.  You will know that it hasn't self pollinated as the plants are all female.   

Pineberry are smaller than garden strawberries

Unlike most garden strawberries, Pineberry strawberries only produce female flowers.  They need another variety of strawberry near by to act as a pollinator.  Most home growers tend to have more than one variety of strawberry, so this isn't an issue.  

The choice of pollinator won't affect the colour or the taste or look of the berries, so you don't need to worry about planting the wrong one.  Even if you don't have another strawberry variety, if you have a small block in town surrounded by neighbours there is a high chance one of them is growing strawberries, and insects happily (or to be more accurate, accidentally) transfer pollen for you.

Pineberry can not be grown from seed.  They are female plants, and any seed produced will be the result of pollination from a different variety.  Luckily they produce many runners and are simple to propagate.

Pineberry can be reasonably productive

Pineberry can be relatively productive, they produce numerous flowers which can turn into berries.  

Sadly, they only flower once or twice per year.  Pineberry are what is often referred to as 'June Bearing', a term comes from the Northern Hemisphere.  In Australia pineberries have one main flush of fruit which often ripens around November to December in my garden.  They can have a second flush of flowers or even a third some years, but this is not a given.

Pineberries

Pineberries can also flower profusely, and then abort all the flowers to produce no fruit.  I believe this is due to lack of pollination, or a lack of water.  

All strawberries need additional water to produce fruit in my garden.  

If no other strawberries are flowering nearby the fruit all aborts as pollination cannot occur.  I grow a bunch of different varieties of strawberry, so there is a good chance one of them will flower at the same time as pineberry and I can get a decent crop.

Pineberries are a little small

Pineberries produce berries that are white with red achenes (achenes are the things on the outside that people call seeds, the seed is inside this structure).  They are light green/white when unripe, it is easy to know when they are ripe as they get a pink blush.  If you cut one open, they are white all the way through.  

The taste and smell is reminiscent of pineapple, and they can be very sweet.  Occasionally mine taste sour and uninteresting.  I think this is due to lack of water or perhaps temperature fluctuations.  I don't tend to water my pineberries often, and I regret it when they fail to fruit well that year.  

Pineberries ripening

The berries themselves are noticeably smaller than garden strawberries.  Back when pineberry was easy to buy from nurseries or online everyone conveniently neglected to inform buyers of this fact.  

I have included a few photos of them next to garden strawberries for a comparison.  The comparison strawberries are a small-medium berry from a variety known as Melba.  

Melba and Pineberry

Pineberries grow well from runners in my climate, so you don't need many to establish a decent sized patch of them.  If you want to grow them, remember they are female plants that require pollination from another variety.  

I don't have the space or water or time to grow things that don't produce or don't taste great.  Pineberries are not my favourite strawberry, but they are good enough to retain a place in my garden.  

Ripe pineberries

Pineberries were popular for a while, and sold through Bunnings and as well as being carried by a few online seed sellers.  A few years ago these places stopped carrying them, I'm not sure why.  Perhaps they were not marketable once the fad had passed.  Now they are difficult to find and are once again drifting into obscurity.  

If you want to grow pineberries, I sell bare rooted pineberry plants through my for sale page.  Like all strawberry plants, they survive well through the post bare rooted.  

Sturt Desert Pea

Earlier this year we went to Coober Pedy for a holiday.  Coober Pedy is an opal mining town in outback Australia.  

I was unfamiliar with most plants I saw growing out in the desert.  One of the very few plants that I was familiar with was the Sturt Desert Pea (Swainsona formosa).  I have seen these in cultivation before, I even grew one in a pot years ago, but seeing this growing in the wild was an experience. 

Sturt Desert Pea

These plants were amazing.  They have fluffy grey leaves, and large red flowers.  Each plant sprawled several meters in every direction.  

The ones I have previously seen were only a fraction of this size.  It really shows how well suited they are to the harsh desert life.  

One thing I couldn't help but notice was the amount of genetic diversity among individual plants.  

Most were the typical red with the black eye (which I really like the looks of).  Some were red with a red eye.  Others had a red eye, but the red was darker.  

Sturt desert pea - typical form

Typical form

Red Sturt Desert Pea

Darker than the ones above

When I was at university there were huge efforts put into breeding a white Sturt Desert Pea.  It had been noticed that there was a lot of genetic diversity, so they collected germplasm from the wild and crossed and back crossed in the hopes of getting an all white Sturt's Desert Pea.  This was achieved and celebrated.  

It was then noted that these do not perform well in tissue culture, and really must be propagated by seed.  I am not sure what happened to that project, but I remember my lecturer feeling rather down and saying that the project was a waste of time.  

Since then I have heard reports of white flowered forms growing in the wild.  I have even seen a few photos of these pure white flowers, and some incredible pale violet ones.  If you lived somewhere that can easily grow them I don't think it would be difficult to produce a white version that breeds true to type.  The genetics are there.  It would be a matter of picking good parent stock, then back crossing and culling, much like breeding any annual vegetable. 

Several online places sell seed of Sturt Desert Pea.  They are such pretty plants.  Like many Australian native plants they can be a little tricky to grow.  From memory you cannot transplant them easily, so you need to plant the seed where the plant is intended to grow.  I think most in cultivation are grafted onto different root stock as they rot easily.  Perhaps I should buy some seeds and see if I can grow some in a pot.  

Pink Dandelion

Pink dandelions (Taraxacum pseudoroseum) are probably a little different than you may think.  Pink dandelions are available in Australia, I have been growing them for a few years.  They are a pretty little flower that should be grown more commonly.  

I wrote an earlier post on pink dandelions and after growing them for a few years thought it may be time to do an update.  All of the photos on this post are of my plants, you will notice that there is a bit of diversity in colours, this is mostly due to the age of the flower.  

Pink Dandelion

I like regular dandelions (Taraxacum officionale), you know the ones in the lawn with yellow flowers.  They have a huge number of uses in an organic garden.  Pink dandelions are a different species Taraxacum pseudoroseum, they are just as useful and perhaps a little prettier.  

All parts of dandelions, both regular ones and the pink ones, are edible.  The leaves are incredibly high in vitamins and minerals, far more nutritious than most leaf vegetables.  Leaves are especially high in vitamin C.  The roots can be roasted and eaten like a parsnip, or they can be dried and ground to use like a caffein free coffee.  Even though I have never tried this myself, the flowers can be made into cordials or wine.  

Dandelions are great in the compost, they are often referred to as a 'compost activator'.  What this means is they contain high amounts of all the nutrients needed for the microbes in compost.  If you compost something that is low in a certain mineral, adding a compost activator is adding something that is high in that mineral.  Dandelions are high in pretty much everything, so they make a good compost activator.  

Starts white and gets pinker each day

Pink dandelions look superficially much like lawn dandelions, but perhaps a little smaller and the leaves never get very upright.  When not in bloom I would not be able to tell them apart.

When the flowers first open they are either all white, or white with a yellow center.  The white slowly becomes light pink the first day, and then gets darker pink each day.  

The photo below shows some pink dandelions blooming.  The white one opened that day, and the pinker one opened the day before.  It is fun how they change colour and become more pink as they age.  

Pink Dandelions blooming

The flowers almost always retain the yellow centre.  That being said, I have had a few that opened completely white and turned completely pink.  This is rare, and I believe has more to do with environment than genetics as other flowers on the same plant had the usual yellow center.  

Pink Dandelion Blooms

Beneficial insects are attracted to the flowers.  Larger pollinators such as bees, beetles, and hover flies love dandelion flowers.  If you are a beekeeper you would already know just how beneficial dandelions are to a honey bee hive.  Native bees and solitary wasps also benefit greatly from dandelion flowers.  They seem to flower for much of the year, which means pollinators almost always have a food supply.

The pink dandelion flowers also attract and feed many other beneficial insects such as the tiny parasitoid wasp in the picture below.  

These tiny parasitoid wasps kill pest insects that would damage other plants in my garden.  I grow everything organically, so this is important in my garden.  

Tiny beneficial wasp

I don't have any photos of this, but even though dandelion are not native several native birds like dandelion seed heads.  

Some of the smaller birds eat a lot of dandelion seeds.  Superb fairy wrens mostly eat insects (and are more than welcome in my garden), but I have also watched them eat dandelion seed.  We have a few tiny birds that migrate through each year, such as double bar finches and zebra finches, which I have seen eat dandelion seeds.  

Much more interesting than this is some larger birds eat dandelion seeds.  I have seen crimson rosellas eat dandelion seeds many times.  There are a few grass parrots that I have watched eating the seeds.  I have seen galahs and even a cockatoo eat dandelion seeds.

More pink dandelions

Pink dandelions are great

Pink dandelions are easy to grow, but they need a little water.  The pink dandelion are not as hardy as regular lawn dandelions.  I have missed collecting their seed many times, and am yet to find one of these in my lawn.  They grow equally well in a small pot or in the garden bed.  They seem to do well in full sun but appreciate afternoon shade in summer.  

Pink dandelions are simple to grow from seed if the seed is fresh.  I should write another post on growing pink dandelion from seed, even though it is simple the seeds need light to germinate.  I had a plant in a pot that flowered and set seed that I collected.  This original plant died one summer when I did not water its pot and it dried out completely.  All of the plants I now have are seed grown from that original one.  

I do sell pink dandelions from time to time, I should start selling their seed as they are simple to grow from seed.  If you are interested they are listed along with various perennial vegetables for sale.

Grow water chestnuts and other aquatic vegetables

Chinese water chestnuts (Eleocharis dulcis) are a perennial vegetable that are incredibly simple to grow.  I wrote a post about growing water chestnuts in a bucket.  It is simple and the yield was exceptional.  Each bucket often gives me a dozen or so edible size corms, and well over a hundred smaller ones to replant.  You could eat the small ones, but I find them too fiddly to peel.  

I grow duck potatoes (Sagittaria sp) in the same way.  They are just as simple to grow, and while the yield was nowhere near as large as water chestnuts the duck potatoes also give a great yield for a small amount of space.  

I am told duck potatoes are better suited to cooler climates than water chestnuts, but I find they both perform much the same even in the Canberra region.  Chinese water chestnuts are dormant over winter, so are not impacted by frosts.  I tend to leave some in the soil and as long as it doesn't freeze solid some always survive to grow the following season.  Below are photos of plants in my greenhouse where they are protected from frosts, until this year I have only grown them outside next to the fence where the water is covered in ice regularly over winter.

To grow them I would fill a bucket a bit over 3/4 full with soil and leaf litter.  Plant a water chestnut into this.  Then add water until it over-flowed.  I would put this in the sun, top up the water as needed, and harvest in autumn after the foliage died off.  Gardening really doesn't get much easier than this.  

The buckets would last about 4 years before they would start to fall apart.  Some lasted a lot longer, I still have some that have not yet fallen apart.  

Recently I started to wonder why some buckets degraded at 4 years, and others are still going after ten years.  I think the bucket degrades slightly from the sunlight and becomes brittle, but is able to stay together because there is no stress placed on the sides.  When I harvest I think I must put too much pressure on the bucket and it falls apart.  The ones that have not fallen apart are the ones I have been very careful of when harvesting.  

These buckets are very cheap (less than $1 each), so this isn't about money, I don't want to be wasting plastic if I can help it.  

This year I am trying something a bit different.  I am submerging a pot of soil in the bucket of water.  Come harvest time I can lift the pot out, harvest what I want, and return the pot, all without stressing the bucket.  I think it should work, and it should make harvest easier for me.  

Below are photos of what I am trying.  

I got a cheap 10 liter bucket, and a slightly smaller pot.  The bucket is the cheapest I can find, the pot was given to me second hand.  I already have water chestnut corms, and I use soil that I dug out of the drain in front of my garage, so it is not a huge financial expense.  

10 L bucket and the pot

I filled the pot with soil and leaf litter from a drain in front of my garage.  I didn't fill the pot the whole way, simply because I didn't have enough soil.  It would probably be better if it was filled higher.  These plants need soil if they are to return a decent crop.  

Had I thought about this earlier I would have done this a few months ago and added manure from the chicken house.  Poultry manure is great for the garden as it contains all essential nutrients for plants growth, but it can't be used fresh.  If I tried this now it would burn my plants as it would not have time to 'age' enough.  

Fill the pot with soil

I put some water in the bucket, and submerged the pot.  From here I will plant a water chestnut, or a duck potato, and top up the water.  

In autumn or early winter I will lift the pot out of the bucket, and tip out the soil for harvest.  This sounds much faster and easier than harvesting by digging through frigid water and mud in search of corms with my cold hands. 

Pot of soil submerged in bucket

In this bucket I planted one water chestnut in the soil.  The water level was slightly too high, so I lowered the water level so a leaf could emerge into the air.  

Chinese water chestnuts and duck potatoes both need their leaves in the air, otherwise they may rot.  For now the plant is still tiny and using its leaf as a little snorkel.  Once the plant grows taller I will increase the water level to the top of the bucket.  

  

Water chestnut planted

I tend to grow azolla on top of the water in buckets like this.  Azolla sequesters nitrogen from the atmosphere, and acts as a high nitrogen fertiliser when it dies.  I normally let the water level drop to the soil level every week so ants can carry off all the mosquito larvae.  Placing a pot in a bucket like this will make that impossible as there will always be free water in the bucket.  Azolla is also proven to reduce the number of mosquito larvae surviving to adulthood, so hopefully it helps.  

Water chestnuts ready to grow 

I put a few pots in buckets.  The plants will survive, and divide, and provide an edible crop, so even if this method proves inefficient I won't have lost anything.  

I have high hopes for growing them in a pot submerged in a bucket this, but I am also starting to wonder if I will have mosquito issues doing things this way... perhaps I should put fish in one bucket and no fish in another and see if what works better.  

Keep an eye on my blog as I plan to update how having a pot in a bucket works (or doesn't work) for growing water chestnuts and duck potatoes.  

If you want to grow water chestnuts in a bucket, it is far easier than you may think.  The most difficult part is being able to buy the plants.  I have a for sale page where I sell water chestnuts and duck potatoes and other perennial vegetables in Australia.  I update the page regularly, and it has my email address that you can use to contact me.